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Super Jolly Electronic Mods & Micro Adjustments


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I own a Super Jolly Electronic and I'm mostly pretty happy with the results in the cup, but there's a few things I'd like to improve workflow wise.

Firstly, I've tried to look in these forums and online for a list of mods that can be done to the Super Jolly E, but most info I find is aimed at the doser / timer version. Does anyone know of a list of mods, or can advise on some must do mods, specifically for the Super Jolly E?

In terms of how I work at the moment, I really only pull one or two shots a day (depending on if I need to re dial my beans in). I've removed the hopper and fitted a camera lens hood with a lid, but I find single dosing doesn't work well due to retention and popcorning. I keep the metal chamber above the burrs filled with beans spilling over in to the lens hood which is probably somewhere around 60g of beans, the lens hood mod does help with retention, but it definitely doesn't clear all the coffee in the shoot, I feel like it needs more force. The antistatic screen could also be playing a role here, but I've read mixed things on removing/modding it. I'm wondering if anyone has found a better mod than the lens hood, or some bellows similar to the solo grinder that fit? I see Daniel Wong is actually launching something in September like this, he's calling it the push-blow hopper https://home-doserless.com/

The other thing I'd like to improve is making micro adjustments as easy as possible, I have cleaned the grinder and greased the collar recently, but I still find making micro adjustments clunky, the collar adjustment is not smooth, rather adjustments are kind of jerky due to the friction, and so the degree to which the collar moves and adjusts the grind is not really repeatable or consistent if that makes sense?

On that note, I find sometimes adjusting the collar just a fraction can have as much as 10 seconds difference on my shot time for the same yield, or conversely sometimes the same degree of adjustment makes no difference at all, I have read elsewhere this can be a symptom of worn burrs, and although last time I checked they looked fine to me, perhaps they're not and it's time for some new ones, any advice on this would be much appreciated because this makes dialling in very frustrating! FYI I have aligned the burrs as per Matt Perger's method.

 

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Have you thoroughly cleaned out the threads on the grinder and on the collar ? coffee grounds collect at the root of the threads, use a small wire brush or a cocktail stick to clean out the bottom of the threads.

Some members find using ' lip salve / balm' is better than grease. Do you have the adjusting rod fitted to the collar ?

Are the holes where the springs sit clean ? Are the springs equal length ?

Adjustment is better if you can do it by tightening the collar down (taking out any backlash) rather than backing off the grind allowing free play / tolerance. 

If you change the burrs do not get pattern parts, use genuine Mazzer ones.

Try removing the static screen, for single dosing with a 'puffer' it could be OK, at worst it may increase static.

Edited by El carajillo
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Thanks for your reply. When I aligned the burrs a while ago I stripped the grinder down and cleaned everything thoroughly, then greased the collar thread and that did free it up a bit, but it still wasn't what I would call consistently smooth or easy to make repeatable micro adjustments. I could give lip salve a go though, I'm using a food safe grease at the moment. The adjustment rod is fitted and I use that, however the springs being equal lengths is something I haven't checked, so I'll check that.

2 hours ago, El carajillo said:

Adjustment is better if you can do it by tightening the collar down (taking out any backlash) rather than backing off the grind allowing free play / tolerance. 

By this do you mean physically pushing the collar downwards when adjusting? I will definitely be getting genuine mazzer burrs if I do replace.

Regarding the static screen, I already get a fair bit of clumping and static, I was actually quite surprised how much this grinder clumps when I got it in comparison to the Gaggia MDF I had before. It's just something I've learned to live with as I do WDT anyway. So I've always thought removing the static screen might make this even worse, saying that it is something I haven't tried so I guess there's no harm giving it a go.

I'm assuming you have a SJ, would you say that making micro adjustments on yours is smooth and you can make repeatably smooth fine movements with the collar? I've never used another SJ so I'm not sure what I should be expecting really. Also would you say making micro adjustments makes a difference to your shot time (for the same yield), or would you have to go say one notch on the collar to see a few seconds difference?

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Backing off slightly more than required then adjusting finer, this removes  freeplay in the threads of the collar to prevent variation after adjusting.

For your usage I would suggest removing the screen and try it, as you WDT you can only gain .

If you look back on the forum for ' clump crushers' many members made their own version of Mythos clump crusher using metal from drink cans. This to replace the screen and was quite successful.

I had the Mazzer mini E and have worked on several SJ's I have not found them to be super smooth adjusting even trying various different lubricants.

The adjustment between 'notches' is important  for flavour and pour time. One notch difference is approximately 5 sec difference in pour time.

Changes of bean type / age / roast will affect settings.

 

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Thanks that makes sense as I suppose unscrewing the collar for a courser grind will have less friction than tightening it. The issue with this method is that I have to make such small adjustments, so let's say I want to fine up the grind a touch and need to move the collar a hair finer, backing off and then tightening again will probably give me unpredictable changes, I might land back where I was, or go too fine/course, as the adjustments are between notches on the collar so you can't really tell with your eye, if that makes sense. This is where I'm thinking some new burrs may make a difference to the amount of collar movement and it's resulting adjustment. I found this post on home barista where someone describes a similar issue and the consensus is worn burrs : https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/mazzer-super-jolly-grind-adjustment-range-t14813.html

I think when I next change beans I'll give it another deep clean, inspect the springs, burrs etc and take the static screen off and see what difference it makes to retention, interested to try one of the mythos style clump crushers too and see the difference. Slightly annoying that I'd have to remove the official Mazzer solution and DIY one out of a coke can 😆

Out of interest, are you using the camera lens hood mod or something else? I've seen people using bellows like on this grinder...

 

 

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I have changed grinders now and have a Ceado E37S, I did not use a lens hood and on this grinder I have used a tall tube but now use a cut down hopper.

The zero mark does not line up the figures are only used as a guide. For initial setting wind down until the burrs touch ( by hand) back off 17 notches then tighten by 4 notches. This removes the freeplay / backlash from the thread and prevents unwanted movement (loosening).

This setting should be ballpark for espresso.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I did initially set the zero point by winding down until they touched and then backing off until it stops chirping. I know the rough area for espresso for my grinder, it's really just adjusting a hair giving changes of 5-10 seconds which doesn't seem right, I think changing the burrs is the first port of call.

 

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On 13/09/2021 at 18:27, goodcoffeemadcity said:

I did initially set the zero point by winding down until they touched and then backing off until it stops chirping. I know the rough area for espresso for my grinder, it's really just adjusting a hair giving changes of 5-10 seconds which doesn't seem right, I think changing the burrs is the first port of call.

 

The grind adjustment is not great on the Mazzers, I don't think they get changed much in an industrial environment. It's just a feature you have to live with if you keep it, must grinders that used the same mechanism for adjusting have the same issues. The niche, which uses conical burrs uses the same system but has much softer springs, making it a breeze to adjust.

An upgrade you can do is swap the burrs for the SJ burrs as both are 64mm.

I used a lens hood and used to placed a plastic tamper (that came with my rancilio silvia) on top of a single dose of beans whilst grinding. This applied a light amount of pressure during grinding and prevented popcorning. I used to get 0.1g retention with this setup.

Personally, I'd remove the anti-static grid. I didn't get masses of clumping with either of my mazzers but certainly some. Just do a small amount of wdt and tamp and never had any issues, just visually less appealing than fluffy grinds.

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