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Help Ceado 37s not responding


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Hello all;

Came to do my usual morning long black with 16grmd MALABAR double dose 4 secs and NOTHING.

Hit the button with PF nothing.

The machine is on display on but nothing, no noise NOTHING!!

Tried hitting the set button for 3 secs - no beep. The display scrolls between last reset and total number of shots but won’t give me my morning fix.

Tried the manual setting NOTHING.

GUTTED. 

Who repairs these Goliaths???

Help: no backup grinder either.

Going into a coma soon . 

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I know this is an obvious one but have you tried rebooting it by turning the main power off and back on again?

GS3 MP, Ceado E92 and E37s, Feldgrind. Niche.

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If the screen is showing live but push button is not activating possible contamination on push button switch or faulty worn switch.

Coffee grounds tend to escape and fall down onto P/B switch.Remove top burr carrier and carefully vac / brush inside particularly arond switch.

OR turn it upside down , remove the rubber feet and access the 4 screws holding base on, again vac and brush.

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57 minutes ago, lake_m said:

I know this is an obvious one but have you tried rebooting it by turning the main power off and back on again?

Done that till I’m blue in the face.!!

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34 minutes ago, El carajillo said:

If the screen is showing live but push button is not activating possible contamination on push button switch or faulty worn switch.

Coffee grounds tend to escape and fall down onto P/B switch.Remove top burr carrier and carefully vac / brush inside particularly arond switch.

OR turn it upside down , remove the rubber feet and access the 4 screws holding base on, again vac and brush.

Thanks Frank, Going shopping now in a sulk, but will try that later.!

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1 minute ago, Gilly said:

Thanks Frank, Going shopping now in a sulk, but will try that later.!

Buy a tin of contact cleaner while you are out ??

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If it's anything like my E37 (not an S) it's easiest to access the portafilter switch from the bottom. If you decide to disconnect it for cleaning take careful note of which terminals are connected - there should be two wires going to three terminals on the switch. Usual safety warnings apply...

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Ok this is what I’ve found so far.

Retained dark roast grinds (lots)

Wooden dowel; one whole,and suspiciously bits of one???

Long time since I ground any dowels!!

mmmh. I’ll clean and reinstall.

If the switch is still dormant and after my blue funk, I’ll post you all further for advice.

Thanks Gill

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If/when you look at the bottom end you should find the portafilter button acts on a long strip of spring steel which then acts on the switch, which is mounted on a plate at the bottom of the grinder that holds all the electronic components. With a bit of luck your problem is that some piece of debris is physically blocking the action of the steel strip and the switch itself is fine.

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2 hours ago, Stox said:

If/when you look at the bottom end you should find the portafilter button acts on a long strip of spring steel which then acts on the switch, which is mounted on a plate at the bottom of the grinder that holds all the electronic components. With a bit of luck your problem is that some piece of debris is physically blocking the action of the steel strip and the switch itself is fine.

Thanks I’ll give this a go tomorrow hopefully.

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  • 3 weeks later...

@Gilly Did you ever get this issue sorted out? 

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GS3 MP, Ceado E92 and E37s, Feldgrind. Niche.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello again

Ive not had time to look at the grinder till today.

Ive enclosed some pics with the bottom plate removed.

Where do I start as this is not my forte!!

What do I unscrew first?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I’m sick of using my Lido!

Thanks again Jill

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55EE1ABF-065B-403F-BE08-1AEB39AED130.jpeg

CC6614A6-5E83-48FB-86A3-463D3F1067A0.jpeg

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From the first pic the fat white cylinder is the capacitor, this is what can be charged up, note the position of leads then pull them off by the insulated covers ( it is the cylinder that can be charged up) with the terminals pulled off, use an insulated s/driver and touch it across both connectors.

( there wont be any spark or anything to see ) this just discharges any residual power left in it) OK  to touch now.

Looking down the front you will /can see a small white rectangle, this is the micro switch that is operated by the push button, this is what you need to access.   Release the screws holding the metal carrying the electronics and lift to one side ( taking care not to ""bash"" it against anything.

Access and remove the switch (noting / photoing connections / fitment) =for reference. Thoroughly clean the switch and its little push button / knib

Do you have a test meter ? = yes = use continuity to test across the terminals to see if it is working OK NO meter battery + bulb +bits of wire to make up a test circuit.       Also clean around the mechanical push button and everything else while you have it apart.

Enough for now, glad you are having a go:good:

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@GillyThinking back to your previous post when you cleaned out the base and found a piece of dowel.

I do wonder if the dowel was wedging something into place  eg something to do with the switch / push button/ metal finger.

As the movement on the micro switch is very small (2- 3 mm) this could be why the problem has appeared ?

Try to observe the action of the push button /metal finger / contact with the micro switch.

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Ok discharged the capacitor as you said. Got in with a softish brush and throughly cleaned.

Tried to undo the tiny nut off the screw x 2 holding the switch and can’t get into it properly. At this point cleaned the inside with a vacuum and replaced things and decided to see if it now works.

In short no; it’s just as before, so what tool will I need to get onto those tiny nuts? 

I will need to remove the switch anyway should this prove to be faulty so it’s got to come off regardless.

Depressing the switch manually does contact the knib ok and so on.

 Thanks again Jill

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Does pressing the button operate the knib effectively ?  Do you have a test meter ? If you can access the M/switch terminals you could check the action using continuity on the meter.

To undo the nuts securing the switch a small ring spanner or 1/4 '' drive socket on a knuckle bar or extension with a flexible joint.long nosed pliers.

,

I do not know how easy / difficult it would be to remove the entire motor to give access.

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Ok Frank I’m so far down the rabbit hole now there’s no going back!

Removed the entire pcb and the plate above the motor to access the switch which is incredibly fiddly to get off as the nuts/screws invariably fall into the machine; what fun, plus it is 45c in my conservatory!!

Anyway I’ve sent more pics.

What do I do now with the switch??

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