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E37S display losing brightness


hotmetal
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@guzzit3 ABSOLUTELY brilliant...and ONLY £15....i think these grinders have just "gone up in value" thanks to this post...well done Pete, well done indeed; i'm proud of you 😇

p.s. you do realise you'll now be swamped with requests from owners with the same grinder...you've just opened the floodgates lol

Edited by Rumpelstiltskin
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The Ceados are really nicely built, enclosed motors, neat and minimal wiring (not a massive bundle of wires like in the mazzers). Easy to work on and I'm not surprised an off the shelf LCD display is easily compatible. That's not even mentioning the adjustment mechanism and ability to open up from the top to clean the burrs and chamber without losing the grind setting. The only thing that bothers me is the dome nut that stops you jamming your fingers in there because it means you have to use it with a mini hopper and weight as you can't get one dose in there without the problems associated with single dosing.

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6 minutes ago, Rob1 said:

The Ceados are really nicely built......it means you have to use it with a mini hopper and weight as you can't get one dose in there without the problems associated with single dosing.

Yepp, that was the reason i bailed on the one that was recently on fleabay.....i'm lead to believe that the parts to convert one to a E37SD version are a kick in the nads dosh wise...that's if what i read was correct/not.

E37SD still on my current wish-list...i may change my mind :classic_wink:

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10 minutes ago, Rumpelstiltskin said:

Yepp, that was the reason i bailed on the one that was recently on fleabay.....i'm lead to believe that the parts to convert one to a E37SD version are a kick in the nads dosh wise...that's if what i read was correct/not.

E37SD still on my current wish-list...i may change my mind :classic_wink:

I'm fairly certain the sd still has the big dome nut, they've just changed the adjustment mechanism to a worm drive so you can more easily make big adjustments to go coarse-fine rather than have a set range e.g espresso. The also added the bellows which you can easily make yourself.

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3 minutes ago, Rob1 said:

I'm fairly certain the sd still has the big dome nut....the bellows which you can easily make yourself...

mmm i may have overlooked that when doing my homework a while back...i'll do some more research on said nut.

Yeah it'd certainly be cheaper....a bastardised steering-rack-gaitor and Bob's yer uncle.

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56 minutes ago, Rumpelstiltskin said:

mmm i may have overlooked that when doing my homework a while back...i'll do some more research on said nut.

Yeah it'd certainly be cheaper....a bastardised steering-rack-gaitor and Bob's yer uncle.

That is pretty much what I have done to single dose with a rather old E37. I couldn't get the shot timer to work properly so I removed the circuit board altogether (easy) and the machine works in straight on-off mode using the portafilter button.

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Just found this thread again. Well done to @guzzit3 for sussing that out!!. I was raking through Ali express to find a blue one but I may just go with this one now that you’ve proved the concept. What a saving!!

Edit - found a blue unit that should match https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174547910218

 

 

 

Edited by lake_m
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GS3 MP, Ceado E92 and E37s, Feldgrind. Niche.

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1 hour ago, lake_m said:

Just found this thread again. Well done to @guzzit3 for sussing that out!!. I was raking through Ali express to find a blue one but I may just go with this one now that you’ve proved the concept. What a saving!!

Edit - found a blue unit that should match https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174547910218

 

 

 

That looks better than the one I fitted it's an FSTN display as is the original one, the correct colour and it should have a better viewing angle. Just a note the dc power on pin 15 and 16 must be the correct polarity, I had to change my display, an easy job, just swap a couple of soldered jumpers on the display board, it's all documented in the spec sheet. Keep us posted on how you get on.

Good luck Pete

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3 hours ago, guzzit3 said:

That looks better than the one I fitted it's an FSTN display as is the original one, the correct colour and it should have a better viewing angle. Just a note the dc power on pin 15 and 16 must be the correct polarity, I had to change my display, an easy job, just swap a couple of soldered jumpers on the display board, it's all documented in the spec sheet. Keep us posted on how you get on.

Good luck Pete

Thanks once again! I've just checked the spec sheet for the display module and it's FSTN negative (light characters on dark background) so hopefully I won't have to mess with the jumpers i.e. Pin 15 is set to Cathode (-ve). I'm assuming the one you purchased was FSTN positive so pin 15 needed to be Anode?

GS3 MP, Ceado E92 and E37s, Feldgrind. Niche.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, NickR said:

Thanks all for this thread. I now switch my grinder off when not in use.

That's good....but the cool news is that in the "worst-case-scenario" you can buy the display for peanuts and your grinder doesn't have to go into a landfill; win win win.

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Oh I have the same problem with my Ceado too, just been ignoring it for the last year since it still works and I've never relied on the display anyways. If its cheap to fix then I might do it too... Is the correct drop in replacement supposed to be FSTN Negative or Positive? I see the negative ones bit more expensive on eBay...

@lake_m the link you posted seems to be for FSTN Positive? How did you get on with it?

Thanks

 

Steven

 

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That's the E92 sorted. The photo makes it look blurry but it's pin sharp.

Ordered the blue one but it's going to take a while to get here so I put this one in for now so that I can use the grinder.

@stevenh The green one is FSTN positive and you need to swap two soldered jumpers over (they're tiny zero ohm resistors, I recommend a hot air re-work station but you should be able to do it with a very small iron). The other thing to watch out for is getting the old display board out; it's soldered in with a lot of solder on both sides of the board. It took a lot of de-solder wick and patience. (and swearing).

I've re-read the spec sheet on the blue one - it's from the same manufacturer in Germany - it's FSTN negative but the jumpers still need to be swapped across from what I can gather.

Here is the spec sheet for the blue one - https://www.display-elektronik.de/filter/DEM16223SBH-PW-N.pdf

When it arrives I'll swap them over and post an update.

IMG_1086.JPG

Edited by lake_m

GS3 MP, Ceado E92 and E37s, Feldgrind. Niche.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, hotmetal said:

Hmm not sounding like something for those of us with no electronics experience or kit then emoji848.png

The biggest chew was getting the old display board out. It's not helped by the fact that it's wedged into the back of the grinder's metal bezel otherwise you could get a solder sucker in there. Only option is to wick it up. A bit fiddly but you'll get there. I didn't bother soldering the new board back in (sod that!), I just used a couple blobs of glue.

Swapping the jumpers across wasn't too bad, you just need a magnifying glass and some tweezers. I used a hot air gun to remove the tiny resistors but you could just as easily rake them off with a small iron. You don't actually need to solder the the resistors back in place, instead you could just bridge the pads with a wire or a blob of solder.

Remove jumpers from J3 and J5, and put them on J2 and J4.

 

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GS3 MP, Ceado E92 and E37s, Feldgrind. Niche.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

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35 minutes ago, lake_m said:

The biggest chew was getting the old display board out. It's not helped by the fact that it's wedged into the back of the grinder's metal bezel otherwise you could get a solder sucker in there. Only option is to wick it up. A bit fiddly but you'll get there. I didn't bother soldering the new board back in (sod that!), I just used a couple blobs of glue.

Swapping the jumpers across wasn't too bad, you just need a magnifying glass and some tweezers. I used a hot air gun to remove the tiny resistors but you could just as easily rake them off with a small iron. You don't actually need to solder the the resistors back in place, instead you could just bridge the pads with a wire or a blob of solder.

Remove jumpers from J3 and J5, and put them on J2 and J4.

 

Awesome thanks! Maybe after the Covid restrictions are over I'll take the board down to a local electronics store ask him to do the solder work... last time i got the control board for my coffee machine fixed for a fiver :)

 

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