Jump to content
IGNORED

Mara X: Redirect OPV discharge water from drip tray to re-use – easy mod instructions (with pics)


Recommended Posts

I just had a look when filling my water tank and mine too has the metal tab lasered out but not popped out. My machine is a Feb 2021 production unit. Looking at it, I'm not convinced the gap would be big enough to fit the OPV tube through freely, it would almost certainly be pinched and therefore angle upwards? Second photo is to provide comparison to the left-hand side gap that other uses have routed the OPV pipe through.

I'm usually a neat freak and would prefer the internal method going forward but the extra noises and unknown longevity of the pump being issue-free do make me wonder if it would be better to route it back through into the tank directly.

PXL_20210506_063545459.jpg

PXL_20210415_121232821.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

What? This easy mod is to re-rout the water discharged from the over pressure valve (OPV) so that instead of being dumped in the drip tray and wasted, it will get reused in the machine. The mod is e

It's the highest point in the system, I suppose if any air gets in it's goring to sit there... Interestingly Vibe pumps can have de-aerators (much less common now), but they are always after the pump,

Of course, I am the first person in history to discover the idea of re-using OPV discharge water. I came up with this geniusity right after I finished inventing the wheel (and the word geniousity).  💡

Posted Images

1 hour ago, pandabear said:

I just had a look when filling my water tank and mine too has the metal tab lasered out but not popped out. My machine is a Feb 2021 production unit. Looking at it, I'm not convinced the gap would be big enough to fit the OPV tube through freely, it would almost certainly be pinched and therefore angle upwards? Second photo is to provide comparison to the left-hand side gap that other uses have routed the OPV pipe through.

I'm usually a neat freak and would prefer the internal method going forward but the extra noises and unknown longevity of the pump being issue-free do make me wonder if it would be better to route it back through into the tank directly.

 

Yes, I checked mine and agree, the path of the tube is not as clear as I originally thought it would be. It looks like something might be changing for future models. The feedback from @DavecUK and experience of @MediumRoastSteam, @Doram and others is enough for me to take the tidy, reversible, internal mod and re-route the OPV back to the pump. I'll run some before and after tests, with the cover open, to see if I can spot any variations in sound etc. Not sure when I will get around to this but will post results when I do.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

It's important to point out that vibe pumps don't suffer from cavitation damage like rotary pumps can. For that short moment the pump is running without water, or much water, but isn't really running "dry" as within moments it's full. So I'm almost 100% certain no pump damage will result from rerouting.

  • Like 2

899161310_ricehaiku.JPG.d69e44c11eab9645400547eea500ba1c.JPG

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, pandabear said:

I'm not convinced the gap would be big enough to fit the OPV tube through freely, it would almost certainly be pinched and therefore angle upwards

How wide / tall is the gap? The hose is 8.5mm outer diameter - if it's the same as the Elizabeth. 

Current: Lelit Elizabeth / Niche Zero / VST baskets / Distilled water + 100mg NaCO3/L

Previous: Gaggia Classic | Eureka Mignon | Rocket Cellini Evo | Profitec 700 | Profitec T-64 | Gene Cafe CBR-101 | Kinu M68 | Feldgrind 2 | La Pavoni Europiccola 2012

Also at: CoffeeTime Forum & Niche Zero Owners Group

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, pandabear said:

I'm not convinced the gap would be big enough to fit the OPV tube through freely, it would almost certainly be pinched and therefore angle upwards

 

20 minutes ago, MediumRoastSteam said:

How wide / tall is the gap? The hose is 8.5mm outer diameter - if it's the same as the Elizabeth. 

Even if the tube doesn't completely clear the slot and is a little pinched, I doubt that this will restrict the flow from the OPV enough to create any problem for the discharge. It would be very stupid to make a slot that is too small for its purpose, and I trust Lelit they have checked it.

Edited by Doram
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MediumRoastSteam said:

How wide / tall is the gap? The hose is 8.5mm outer diameter - if it's the same as the Elizabeth. 

The gap allows for about 7mm at a push when you force the water tank back and bow the plastic a little. You can see this from a bottle pourer tip I've used which is circa 7mm diameter. It would be a fiddle and would not be a flush or neat fit.

The other picture I have taken shows where the cut out is relative to the water tank cut out - it's below it! Ridiculous design if this is what they're intending...

PXL_20210506_112121643.jpg

PXL_20210506_112245665.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, pandabear said:

The other picture I have taken shows where the cut out is relative to the water tank cut out - it's below it! Ridiculous design if this is what they're intending...

Ouch! Looks like they need to make the cut in the top panel for it to align (yuck), or make the cut in the tank much deeper. This might explain why they are not re-routing to the tank yet.

Go on then, brave it, do the internal version and join the club. 😉

P.S. I can't believe I didn't see it before, but contrary to what I said my tank does have the cut! I never noticed it, must be the brain going. I guess this was left over from the original intention to route the OPV to the tank. They changed their mind, routed the discharge to the tray and left the cut in the tank...

 

Edited by Doram
Link to post
Share on other sites

@Doram @pandabear @Dave135

I don't want to ruin the excitement for future versions but... Let's face it... Its just normal for manufacturers to use similar panels/design which fit others machines. 

Well, on the normal Mara PL62 (Not X)... Looks like the same panel is used... And cut so the hoses (OPV / Pump feed) go through. 

image.thumb.png.1545ad7833d3ddc4d810951bf324f009.png

Party is over chaps. 🤣  Sorry. 😂

Source: 

 

Forget watching TV in the evening. LelitInsider and Coffeetime is the way forward.  😉

Edited by MediumRoastSteam
  • Like 1

Current: Lelit Elizabeth / Niche Zero / VST baskets / Distilled water + 100mg NaCO3/L

Previous: Gaggia Classic | Eureka Mignon | Rocket Cellini Evo | Profitec 700 | Profitec T-64 | Gene Cafe CBR-101 | Kinu M68 | Feldgrind 2 | La Pavoni Europiccola 2012

Also at: CoffeeTime Forum & Niche Zero Owners Group

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, MediumRoastSteam said:

Well, on the normal Mara PL62 (Not X)... Looks like the same panel is used... And cut so the hoses (OPV / Pump feed) go through. 

In the old Mara there is a gap between the tank and the metal panel, so the tubes can bend to go through the hole. On the X the tank is flush with the panel, so if the cuts aren't aligned it will be difficult to pass the tube. I don't know if this is the reason for not redirecting to the tank, now or in the past. Surely, if they want to do it they will find a way - it's not rocker science.

I am curious regarding the process, but don't really care - my machine is already sorted, so every day is a party. 😉🤣

Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, Doram said:

In the old Mara there is a gap between the tank and the metal panel, so the tubes can bend to go through the hole. On the X the tank is flush with the panel, so if the cuts aren't aligned it will be difficult to pass the tube. I don't know if this is the reason for not redirecting to the tank, now or in the past. Surely, if they want to do it they will find a way - it's not rocker science.

I am curious regarding the process, but don't really care - my machine is already sorted, so every day is a party. 😉🤣

My point here is not about the the OPV routing back to tank for the MaraX. But about the fact they are using the same panel, and they cut that part for the PL62, but not for the MaraX. So I don't think Lelit is considering routing the MaraX OPV back to the tank, nor are in the process of doing so. The pre-cut on the panel is no news, so, safe to assume that what we are seeing here is not a consequence of R&D, but a consequence of reusing parts. 

Edited by MediumRoastSteam
  • Like 1

Current: Lelit Elizabeth / Niche Zero / VST baskets / Distilled water + 100mg NaCO3/L

Previous: Gaggia Classic | Eureka Mignon | Rocket Cellini Evo | Profitec 700 | Profitec T-64 | Gene Cafe CBR-101 | Kinu M68 | Feldgrind 2 | La Pavoni Europiccola 2012

Also at: CoffeeTime Forum & Niche Zero Owners Group

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, MediumRoastSteam said:

My point here is not about the the OPV routing back to tank for the MaraX. But about the fact they are using the same panel, and they cut that part for the PL62, but not for the MaraX. So I don't think Lelit is considering routing the MaraX OPV back to the tank, nor are in the process of doing so. The pre-cut on the panel is no news, so, safe to assume that what we are seeing here is not a consequence of R&D, but a consequence of reusing parts. 

I think you may be wrong on this. The old Mara top panel is different from the top panel on Mara X (see photo of the X below) - it isn't the same panel.
The pre-cut is a new thing they didn't do for the X until recently. Add to that what @DavecUKsaid about Lelit considering to direct the OPV to the tank and I think it may well be that this is exactly what they are doing. Or maybe not? 🙂

In ant case, all we need is some patience and we will know where the wind blows. 🌬️

819455594_maraxtoplook.thumb.jpeg.f96c82957b1e3bd8a4cb082abba1d032.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm just wondering if anyone who is more intelligent than me could find a way of isolating the potential issue of the air in the OPV tube? Could you install a valve that allowed the OPV to discharge water into a further piece of piping (call it a "holding chamber") and then connect this holding chamber to the pump, so that the pump pulls that water from the chamber and nothing else (ie. it doesn't continue sucking air from the OPV tube)?

As I'm thinking it through you'd need a valve that would release water through when it was deposited to the valve but wouldn't allow air through/would close when there is no water present. I might be trying to engineer something that doesn't exist so shoot me down if so!

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, pandabear said:

I'm just wondering if anyone who is more intelligent than me could find a way of isolating the potential issue of the air in the OPV tube? Could you install a valve that allowed the OPV to discharge water into a further piece of piping (call it a "holding chamber") and then connect this holding chamber to the pump, so that the pump pulls that water from the chamber and nothing else (ie. it doesn't continue sucking air from the OPV tube)?

As I'm thinking it through you'd need a valve that would release water through when it was deposited to the valve but wouldn't allow air through/would close when there is no water present. I might be trying to engineer something that doesn't exist so shoot me down if so!

You could direct the OPV discharge tube to a small container inside the machine (if you can find a place for it), then put a second tube from the bottom of that container to the pump inlet (connected as a junction to the tube from the water tank to the pump inlet). Any air in the OPV discharge would then float to the top of your container and not get to the pump. Essentially, this would be adding a mini water tank inside the case, and it would perform the same as directing the discharge to the tank.

Is this worth the trouble? IMO it doesn't. If I want to go the internal route I would do it direct (as I did), and if I was so worried about air from the OPV going to the pump - I would go via the tank.

Edited by Doram
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Doram said:

In ant case, all we need is some patience and we will know where the wind blows

Indeed. Let's see what happens... But I thought you said your MaraX also has the cut on the panel? And yours if from mid 2020 right? Meaning... They've been thinking of doing this all along but never got to do it? 

Edit: Maybe I'm getting confused. You said yours have a cut in the tank... But maybe not the panel?

Edited by MediumRoastSteam

Current: Lelit Elizabeth / Niche Zero / VST baskets / Distilled water + 100mg NaCO3/L

Previous: Gaggia Classic | Eureka Mignon | Rocket Cellini Evo | Profitec 700 | Profitec T-64 | Gene Cafe CBR-101 | Kinu M68 | Feldgrind 2 | La Pavoni Europiccola 2012

Also at: CoffeeTime Forum & Niche Zero Owners Group

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, MediumRoastSteam said:

Edit: Maybe I'm getting confused. You said yours have a cut in the tank... But maybe not the panel?

Exactly! I have a cut in the plastic water tank, but not in the metal panel.

I think they have a problem: Because the tank is now (in the X) flush with the panel, the notch for the OPV tube in the tank and the case need to align.

If you look at the photo from @pandabear, you clearly see that the current cut in the tank doesn't align with the cut in the metal panel. To make it clear, there are two metal panels: a vertical one separates the water tank compartment from the rest of the machine, and a top horizontal panel which covers the top of the machine (the cup warmer). 

The current pre-cut is in the vertical panel inside the machine, but it sits too low for the cut in the water tank. I can see two options to sort that: 1. Make the cut in the water tank deeper, so it reaches the cut in the vertical panel; or 2. Make the cut in the top horizontal panel where the cut in the tank is (but that would be really horrible, with the cut in the top panel and OPV tube visible from above when standing in front of the machine.

Until they sort this issue, they don't have a good way to direct the OPV to the tank, so maybe this is why they don't do it yet?

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, pandabear said:

I'm just wondering if anyone who is more intelligent than me could find a way of isolating the potential issue of the air in the OPV tube? Could you install a valve that allowed the OPV to discharge water into a further piece of piping (call it a "holding chamber") and then connect this holding chamber to the pump, so that the pump pulls that water from the chamber and nothing else (ie. it doesn't continue sucking air from the OPV tube)?

As I'm thinking it through you'd need a valve that would release water through when it was deposited to the valve but wouldn't allow air through/would close when there is no water present. I might be trying to engineer something that doesn't exist so shoot me down if so!

I have one idea to share on the topic of "avoiding air to the pump". 

For context - I myself made the "full" mod in the early days, and suffered from the mystery air issue.  While I understand there's no major risk to the hardware, it still felt unpleasant and I eventually reverted the mod to put the OPV hose into the tank instead.  Easy enough.

When I originally made the "full" mod, I was using hard tap water with a Lelit resin filter.  After a couple of weeks I switched to really soft bottled water (hooray for the efficient machine not wasting bottled water!) without a filter, and still had the issue.  I kept the "full" mod probably ~2 months and watched it closely - I operated the machine for most of that time without a lid on top so I could actually see the top of the OPV.  I wanted to see if eventually all the air would bleed from the circuit. No luck.  It's really strange.  Anecdotally, I would notice the air bubbles form more quickly after freshly filling the tank, which reinforces my amateur theory that it's dissolved gas in the water itself.  I can't think of any other source....

 

Either way - fact is: some people are getting air to the pump.  I noticed this a while back and just never commented until now - maybe it'll help someone:

When I executed my "full" mod, I followed the original instructions very precisely (quoted below).  I used a 'T' connector with the OPV hose coming in from the top, and the connector placed really close to the pump intake.  It looked exactly like the image in the original instructions.

A while ago @Glen posted a video of his machine that came pre-modified (also quoted below).  There's a difference in the connector *and* the placement of that connector as compared to the original instructions.  The shop reused a 'Y' connector, and placed it further away from the pump.  What's intriguing about this is: In this orientation, the 'Y' is at a high-point in the hose from the tank -> pump, and the OPV hose comes down into the top of the 'Y'.

After watching my own machine's behavior for quite some time, I wonder if this orientation of a 'Y' connector further from the pump will reduce the amount of air that ultimately gets pulled into the pump.  When an air bubble forms, it'll naturally sit at the high point in the OPV hose and water from the OPV will flow around the bubble and fall down into the pump intake.  If the 'Y' connector is not "favoring" the OPV hose the way the 'T' connector might have been, then maybe there's a reduced chance for the air to reach the pump.

I have no idea whether this is a significant difference or not, but I imagine it making a marginal improvement for someone who otherwise is getting the mysterious air issue.  I'm not anxious to update my mod anytime soon to experiment, but perhaps this advice is helpful for anyone on the fence now :)

For what it's worth, I REALLY love this mod in either version and am *super* happy it was shared in the first place.  I don't think of this as a criticism of the original approach, rather an optimization for those of us with the really weird phantom air appearing in our closed circuits 🤪

 

On 23/02/2021 at 02:21, Glen said:

You've been such a good sport making lots of videos for us Dave, so I thought I'll go one better than a photo and show the whole plumbing in a video. Turns out my Mara X came to me brand new already modded. 

 

 

On 11/11/2020 at 18:01, Doram said:

What?
This easy mod is to re-rout the water discharged from the over pressure valve (OPV) so that instead of being dumped in the drip tray and wasted, it will get reused in the machine. The mod is easy, cheap, invisible and completely reversible.

Why?
One of the very few complaints about the Mara X is that it dumps the OPV discharge water to the drip tray. Re-routing will (a) reduce water waste; (b) reduce the water that ends in the drip tray. This results in less need to fill the tank and less emptying of the tray.

How much water will be saved? Is this worth doing?
The amount of OPV water discharge varies by shot time and puck resistance (For example, @disq measured that 85ml of water was reclaimed in a ~49 second shot; My own experiment showed that water in the drip tray after one heating cycle and shot reduced from 125mm before re-routing to 40mm after – so about the same). This is not a huge amount, but it adds up, and if you invest in the water (bottled, re-mineralise etc.), you might not want to through it away and fill the drip tray with it.

So why does Lelit dump the water to the drip tray? Is there a disadvantage to re-routing?
Many (most) tanked machines return the OPV discharge water back to the tank. (e.g. Gaggia Classic, Rancilio Silvia, Lelit Elizabeth and more). This was also the case in the first prototype of the Mara X, but that was changed in the production model.

According to @DavecUK, the dumping of the water to the drip tray was meant to enable provision for a neat in-tank filter in the bottom-fed water tank, with no messy tubes entering from the top. However, you can do this mod and still use the in-tank filter; and if you don’t use the filter - it’s even easier.

How hard is it to do the mode?
This mod is very easy. I took my time and maybe spent an hour, but the actual job is very quick: just pop a few tubes from their fittings and connect them differently.

What parts are needed?
The mod requires two 3-way 6mm connectors (cost £6) and that's it. I used one Y-shape and one T-shape, but you can do it with two Y connectors. I used brass for durability and heat resistance, but you might be able to get away with plastic connectors).

Y connector: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRASS-barbed-Hose-Y-Splitter-Joiner-Connector-Available-in-4-sizes/302640867070?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=601489110379&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

T connector: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-barbed-Hose-T-splitter-joiner-connector-Available-in-6-sizes/301942646786?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=600744504401&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

(Halfords sell a pair of plastic Y connectors if you don’t want to wait for brass to come in the post: https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fixings/halfords-hose-connector-y-piece-6mm-hfx373-869180.html).

Optional parts:
@DavecUK suggested fitting a one-way no-return valve if you want to keep using the in-tank filter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-Way-Valve-Sprung-Plastic-Barbed-Non-Return-Inline-Water-Air-Car-Gas-Liquid/251338340002?hash=item3a84eeb6a2:g:5xQAAOxyNExSMi3I. (This part is to ensure that water from the OPV discharge will not push back to the tank, potentially lifting the in-tank filter from its seat).

@MediumRoastSteam suggested using cable ties on the connections to secure them, and extra silicone tubing so that you can keep the original tubing intact if you want to reverse the mod. I didn’t use cable ties as my fittings a barbed and seem very secure as they are. I also didn’t need any extra tubing: I ‘borrowed’ 4-5cm of tube from the in-tank hose loop that I don’t need (because I don’t use the filter), and kept the original tubes inside the machine intact (so everything is reversible to original condition). However, I found that the tube from the bottom of the tank to the pump is long enough, so if I wanted I could do all the connections without any need for extra tubing borrowed from the tank.

I am convinced, what do I need to do (see pics below)?
1)     Remove the top panel and the main part of the case of the machine. See instructions in DaveC’s excellent video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhZG5tcqj3A&feature=emb_logo&ab_channel=DaveCorbey

2)     Identify the OPV (pic below). Follow the hose that comes out of it. It terminates in a brass X connector.

3)     Carefully remove the OPV hose from the X connector, and re-route it behind the boiler to the other side of the machine (to where the hose from the bottom of the tank enters the pump - pic below).

4)     Either cut the hose connected to the pump a few cm above the entry and connect the T connector to the hose (or use a few cm of new hose to connect the T connector to the pump’s entry). Use the free connection on the T to connect the hose from the OPV. That’s the re-routing of the OPV discharge done.**

5)     (optional): if you want to use the in-tank filter, connect a one-way (no-return) valve on the hose between the tank and the pump. This will ensure the OPV discharge water will not return to the tank and push against the filter (I didn’t do this stage).

6)     To finish the job, go back to the X connector where the OPV discharge hose was originally connected. Remove the 3 remaining hoses that are connected to the X connector (safety valve, solenoid and drip tray), and connect them to the new Y hose connector. Secure the connections with cable ties if you want (I didn’t), and also secure the Y connector to the electrical wires (as it was originally with the X connector). (Bottom pic shows this before and after)

**An even simpler option: Just follow steps 1-3 and 6, but after removing the OPV discharge hose from the X connector route it back to the water tank (requires to make a cut in the top of the tank so that the cover of the tank can sit flush), or route the hose to a bottle next to or under the machine. Both these options are possible, but of course less elegant than the proposed full mod.

That’s it, all done. (To be safe, it might be a good idea to run the machine (carefully) with the case off to see that everything is working as it should and you have no leaks before fitting back the case (to be honest, I didn’t bother).

Enjoy the machine with less water waste and less emptying of drip tray. 😊

Credits and thanks: @DavecUK, @disq, @MediumRoastSteam and all other fantastic members here for their support and contribution.

415506945_OPVdisconnected.png.306e7b5fa3b83ce9db0a30b17e8e5bb1.png1555406236_Reroutetopump.thumb.png.8699bf6f9fa635bb1431a1fe1ad59ba6.png124324308_XtoYconnection.thumb.png.743044976370a1463cd933930b42961c.png

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 24/02/2021 at 00:01, Doram said:

As we have some confusion about variations for this mod, I created illustrations that hopefully will make it clearer.

Basically, we have 3 alternatives as shown below. I included animations within the descriptions, and still versions at the bottom.
[The illustrations are showing: 1) Original stock configuration; 2) Simplest mod - OPV to tank; 3) Full mod with two added 3-way connectors; and 4) Full mode with existing connectors].

1. Simplest option: OPV goes back to tank

The Tube from the OPV goes to the tank. The remaining entry on the X connector needs to be blocked (or replaced with a 3-way connector). some prefer this option because they  report a change in the noise from the machine with the full mod. Others haven't noticed a change in noise or are not bothered by it and prefer the full mod:

1026644888_Simple-OPVtotank.gif.502233c2937923a5ffb4afb9050dce10.gif

 

2. Full (Original) mod: requires two added 3-way connectors 

The 4-way connector is replace with a new 3-way connector, and a second new 3-way connector is used to connect the OPV tube to the pump inlet:

 1264818223_Originalmodwithnewconnectors.gif.c3121c6a75d82c20f80316b8d163e6a2.gif

3. Full mode using only existing connectors (no extra parts needed)

This version is similar to the original full mode, only instead of replacing the 4-way connector, it cleverly moves an existing 3-way connector to create the exact same result without any extra parts: 

531344424_Modwithexistingconnectors.gif.4630a3e50cc77488bf66b165efe487bb.gif

 

In case those animations are not easy enough to follow, here are the non-moving versions:

2122539231_MaraXoriginalconfirguration.png.cd351ca95cb8c8f36ca1def9d8c7253e.png

 

64624651_MaraXsimplemod-OPVgoestotank.png.8045999dc5c8648f500512e606e0cd2f.png

 

240197956_MaraXoriginalOPVmod-withnewXandYconnectors.png.9b3b62e52f629bad30bc98025ee66cee.png

 

581157819_MaraXmodewithexistingconnectors.png.6ecebb310dd752e121d642a1ed15ca2e.png

 

 

Thanks for these illustrations. I've been thinking about this now that I'm doing my own water and was going to give the easier mod option a try. How am I meant to block off the remaining entry to the x connector however? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Andrewczy said:

Thanks for these illustrations. I've been thinking about this now that I'm doing my own water and was going to give the easier mod option a try. How am I meant to block off the remaining entry to the x connector however? 

You can cut a small part of the piping inside the water tank and use that, or buy some piping and connect that up. @DavecUK just bunged up the piping he used with a plastic cap end. It's important to note that it's not a pressurised pipe system so you just need to make sure it's blocked adequately so no water will escape, no need to ensure it's pressure tight.

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, pandabear said:

no need to ensure it's pressure tight.

Unless... The safety valve pops. 🙂 

Current: Lelit Elizabeth / Niche Zero / VST baskets / Distilled water + 100mg NaCO3/L

Previous: Gaggia Classic | Eureka Mignon | Rocket Cellini Evo | Profitec 700 | Profitec T-64 | Gene Cafe CBR-101 | Kinu M68 | Feldgrind 2 | La Pavoni Europiccola 2012

Also at: CoffeeTime Forum & Niche Zero Owners Group

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Andrewczy said:

Thanks for these illustrations. I've been thinking about this now that I'm doing my own water and was going to give the easier mod option a try. How am I meant to block off the remaining entry to the x connector however?

The elegant option is to replace the 4-way connector with a 6mm 3-way connector. They are a quid online delivered (e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292759784276?hash=item4429d7cb54:g:iDwAAOSw1iVbuMSG) or you can get then at Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/fixings/halfords-hose-connector-y-piece-6mm-hfx373-869180.html or you can be fancy and get the same in brass (but that will set you back a massive £2.29 :-))  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • About
    Coffee Forums UK is the UK's premier coffee forum Started in June 2008 by Glenn Watson, we now have more than 24000 mainly UK based members, and welcome more than 3000 members and visitors from around the world each day! With strategic investment and digital expertise from the Jackson Lockhart team (Tait Pollack and Adam Bateman), we are taking Coffee Forums UK to the next level, and are delighted to share the journey with you.

    New Members:
    We are often referred to as the friendliest forum on the web and we look forward to welcoming you onboard. Please read our Terms of Use. We stick by them, existing members please familiarise yourselves with them.


    Advertising

    Coffee Forums Media Kit

    Click Here To Buy Advertising Space 
    £100 p/m when paid yearly, up-to: 690000 banner impressions per month!


    Donate / Sponsor

    Get Your Supporter Badge Today (per year)

    image.png



    Coffee Forums Logo
     




×
×
  • Create New...