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Hi, my trusty Gaggia Classic has been working for years, but being typical Italian has required a fair amount of...er, involvment technically. Last week it suddenly refused to heat up and the light on the right hand switch does not come on. I thought it might be the boiler thermostat so I bought a new one and installed it but no luck. When I press the left hand switch water comes out, but cold.

Any ideas from the wise men?

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Hi, thank you for your reply. The thermal fuse seems ok, although it is difficult to see through the plastic sleeve. Is there a way of testing it? I have a multimeter and if this is necessary, where would I check for current? There does not seem to be any access on the brown wire side or the double black at the bottom.

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Set your meter to low OHMS/ continuity (at this setting your meter will probably buzz at this setting=showing continuity).

WITH M/CH UNPLUGGED--- place the probes on each end of the fuse/ connector= your meter should now buzz or show a resistance.

As all power comes through the thermal fuse I think you will find it is fine and your problem lies else where.   Possibly heating element. 

You will be able to test the heating elements with your meter (again UNPLUGGED )

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Just to add on a 240V model, i seem to recall each element measures about 23 ohms resistance normally.   Remember there are two thermostats, the brewstat at the bottom and steamstat at the top.

good luck. 👍

Edited by Agentb
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I have checked the continuity of the thermal fuse and there is current flowing through so that is not the fault. I think. I replaced the bottom boiler thermostat and still no luck. I tried a new plug and still no luck. I can only agree that it might be the heating element. How do I test the heating element? I cannot find anything on the net. Should I replace the top thermostat as well, I thought this was only for the steam wand or am I missing something here.

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Set your meter to low OHMs, touch probes together to check meter =OK.

Attach a probe to each of the thin pins at the top of the ''U'' shaped element, = note the reading.

Repeat on pins on other element note reading. If either reading is I or 0 ( depending on meter) the element is faulty.

You can also test between the element pin and the boiler case, any + reading here  = fault

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1 hour ago, Saffrican said:

When I set my meter to the OHM section, 20k I get a reading of 0.02, when I set it to buzzer I get a continuity sound from both sets of pins. Am I using the correct OHM setting?

When set to ''buzzer'' what reading are you getting ? = ohms ?

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48 minutes ago, Saffrican said:

22.5 one side and 21.8 the other.

Assuming that's resistance in ohms seems about right.

Just to confirm, the pump works and the power light comes on when you turn the power on?

5 hours ago, Saffrican said:

Should I replace the top thermostat as well, I thought this was only for the steam wand or am I missing something here.

The steamstat if it has failed open, will stop power getting to the heating elements iirc.

You should easily able to test that.

hth.👍

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Hi AgentB, the pump works and cold water comes but the right hand side power light does not come on. Could the switch assembly be at fault? Will that cause the heating element not to work?

I bought a new thermostat for the bottom boiler and then swapped that one with the steam thermostat to see if anything would happen but no. No luck.

I can only assume by what I have read above that it might be the front switch. The left hand one broke and the light fell out ( typically Italian.....) but we carried on using it as it worked fine. The right hand light worked until a few days ago.

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I would be very doubtful of it being anything to do with the switch.

With the machine off, can you check both the brew thermostat and steam thermostat for continuity with a multimeter?

(Just pull the connectors off them and test from one tab to the other on each thermostat)


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Lots of everything: machines, grinders, roaster, beans, tampers, baskets, blah, blah

However - Too much is never enough!

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.... and whilst you’re at it, also WITH THE MACHINE OFF - also check for continuity across the thermal fuse (don’t check for AC power with the power on, as you’ll always see power across it as your meter will just bypass the fuse).

It’s got to really be either the fuse, steam stat or brew stat.


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Lots of everything: machines, grinders, roaster, beans, tampers, baskets, blah, blah

However - Too much is never enough!

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26 minutes ago, MrShades said:

.... and whilst you’re at it, also WITH THE MACHINE OFF - also check for continuity across the thermal fuse (don’t check for AC power with the power on, as you’ll always see power across it as your meter will just bypass the fuse).

It’s got to really be either the fuse, steam stat or brew stat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He checked the thermal fuse earlier in the thread and said it was OK.

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He checked the thermal fuse earlier in the thread and said it was OK.

From his wording I’m not convinced...


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Lots of everything: machines, grinders, roaster, beans, tampers, baskets, blah, blah

However - Too much is never enough!

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Thank you to all your replies.

I have gone through the machine checking continuity and found the following:

The Blue lead from the plug to the switch has continuity.

The brown lead from the plug which goes through the thermal switch and becomes two black leads which end up at the pump have continuity.

When I switch the machine on the pump works and cold water comes out of the grouphead.

There is continuity across the two sets of pins on the u shaped heating elements.

Both thermostats show continuity

On the switch I have continuity between 1 an P and 7 and P when I switch them on.

Short of prayers to the East I am at the end of what I can do. I am disappointed that I cannot work out what the problem is as I have worked extensively on this machine, constantly unblocking the solenoid valve, descaling the boiler, fitted a new pump and thermostat yet this time I just cannot work out what the issue is. Electronics is not my strong point.

I have bought a new front switch as the existing one sort of broke and fell apart in the interesting and infuriating Italian sort of way. I have owned an Italian car and an Italian motorbike and now have an Italian powered motorhome and they all share these...unique traits😬🤬

Any ideas?

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1 hour ago, Saffrican said:

Thank you to all your replies.

I have gone through the machine checking continuity and found the following:

The Blue lead from the plug to the switch has continuity.

The brown lead from the plug which goes through the thermal switch and becomes two black leads which end up at the pump have continuity.

When I switch the machine on the pump works and cold water comes out of the grouphead.

There is continuity across the two sets of pins on the u shaped heating elements.

Both thermostats show continuity

On the switch I have continuity between 1 an P and 7 and P when I switch them on.

Short of prayers to the East I am at the end of what I can do. I am disappointed that I cannot work out what the problem is as I have worked extensively on this machine, constantly unblocking the solenoid valve, descaling the boiler, fitted a new pump and thermostat yet this time I just cannot work out what the issue is. Electronics is not my strong point.

I have bought a new front switch as the existing one sort of broke and fell apart in the interesting and infuriating Italian sort of way. I have owned an Italian car and an Italian motorbike and now have an Italian powered motorhome and they all share these...unique traits😬🤬

Any ideas?

When testing for continuity did you disconnect the wires? At least 1 wire needs to be disconnected to measure it properly

Neil

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1 hour ago, Saffrican said:

I have bought a new front switch

I guess you have not changed that yet, or you have, and it does not fix the problem?

 

1 hour ago, Saffrican said:

The Blue lead from the plug to the switch has continuity.

I think you need to post some photos of your cabling, showing what is connected where - Gaggia have changed cable colours on some models.

Just to be crystal clear - can you confirm the situation now

  • ONLY the power light comes on (left hand switch)
  • Other two lights never come on no matter what position of switch
  • No temperature increase at all
  • Pump operates normally

Thanks.👍

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Hi Uncletits, not sure why you need to disconnect a wire. Can you explain why you would do that?

Hi AgentB, I have ordered the new switch and am waiting for it to arrive. The left hand switch on the one I have broke into some pieces and the light went out but we still used it like that for a few weeks.The other light on the right does not come on, no matter what the position. The pump works when the left hand switch is pressed but the water is cold. I have left it on for a few hours hoping it might eventually awake from a deep slumber but to no avail.

Unless I am missing something I can only wait for the new switch to arrive and see if that solves the problem.

I have attached some photos for reference when I attach the new switch.

C179B93F-EA68-4166-A5AA-15FC5647AD11.jpeg

28A48A38-9B88-49A4-9540-6B0C0CAB5BDB.jpeg

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If you don’t disconnect the component or at leat one end of it then you’re testing the wiring connecting it so may get continuity

Explain how you tested the thermal fuse? If you didn’t disconnect a wire to test it you weren’t testing just the thermal fuse 

Neil

 

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Looking at the photo it looks like the heating element is not wired up correctly.

2136905861_Screenshotfrom2020-10-1722-42-51.png.b13a18b66752908b5a4db5107cf92405.png

This connector definitely belongs elsewhere, and the four connectors, two black and two (brown or yellow?) maybe, are not connected to the four heating element pins.

Hope that helps.👍

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I noticed that the top connectors are poor, burnt so I have tried this, cut them off and temporarily placed these positive connectors. Still no luck. I also disconnected the one end of the thermal fuse ( brown wire side ) and did a continuity test and there is continuity through the fuse. Still no luck. I have ordered a new front switch so as a process of elimination I will fit that and report back.

6EA59ACE-F545-43E9-9075-7FD05E2A097C.jpeg

D4309702-2B40-4B78-9573-092B365ED01A.jpeg

517E1397-3996-4E74-8045-A54418225D5F.jpeg

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