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Is my Duetto now scrap?


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It has a rotary pump, so it should be straight forward to adjust it back to 9. In fact, you should not get any variations in readings, it should be the same number all the time whether you have the PF locked in or not. My understanding is that the manometer measures the pressure at the head of the pump, and not at the group or brew circuit.

Edited by MediumRoastSteam
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May I suggest you are at a fork in the road with this?

I don't think you should continue to use it as is. From the look of it, it needs a deep clean and reconditioning. This may not actually cost much to do but it will drastically extend the life.

So, either strip it down yourself and rebuild it

Or sell it as a working project and buy new.

I would do the former but can't help think the latter may be better for you.

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27 minutes ago, Blue_Cafe said:

May I suggest you are at a fork in the road with this?

I don't think you should continue to use it as is. From the look of it, it needs a deep clean and reconditioning. This may not actually cost much to do but it will drastically extend the life.

So, either strip it down yourself and rebuild it

Or sell it as a working project and buy new.

I would do the former but can't help think the latter may be better for you.

You're not wrong!  It's had a spruce up when he put it back together and he said it was surprisingly scale free for this area.  That being said there's probably still an issue somewhere.  I'm going to have a little nose around tomorrow but I'm under no illusions regarding my skill levels 😁  I'm definitely leaning towards option 2 at the moment.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 02/10/2020 at 13:46, Mabenson said:

So he's now saying that he doesn't know if a new boiler will fix the problem but as both boilers are linked one could affect the other?  Oh, and he's also said the size of corrosion patches are why he thinks the boiler is leaking and not a joint or pipe.  

In the Duetto the boilers are linked, but only for the brew water Pre-Heat function. However, even if the service boiler is shot... you can quite easily add a stainless boiler with heating elements, use PTFE flexible pipe fittings and feed the brew boiler from the pipe that previously went into the HX unit at the bottom of the service boiler. The Duetto doesn't really need a preheat system in the domestic situation and works fine without it. The brew boiler is a perfect size for domestic use without pre-heat.

The corrosion patches are large and no doubt some are from leaking fittings. Ideally all the corrosion should be cleaned off with citric acid so the boiler is nice and clean, then without insulation and leaks should be evident. Leaks around fittings are not good and pinholes in the boiler might show thinning, although the Duetto copper boiler is quite thick.

On 04/10/2020 at 20:37, Mabenson said:

Well that's all a bit odd.  Picked up the machine today after he put it back together and it seems to be working fine at the moment.  Brew pressure is a little low (8 bar) but it hits that straight away.  I'll see if the problem reappears when it's been on a while but it seems the tech has inadvertently fixed it!😁

One of the things to check is that the pump never leaks....if it does and you have not taken precautions, it will trash the motor bearings. This is because the pump is above the motor and although I asked them to cage the assembly and invert it in my initial design for the Duetto, they never bothered...I think in the latest models they did finally cage the pump and Invert it, but 10 years too late IMO.

Everything you will need to know to check your pump, make a leak detector and protect it is in this search, plus lots of other stuff about the Duetto.

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/search:site/q/duetto

It's still a great machine and I think could be fixed up for very little money. It's temperature accurate when set up right and makes a good shot. The PIDs can even be repaired, well on the MK1s, I think they off boarded the old Hahn transformers in the MK2 (they used to give trouble as were not heat rated correctly) and also gave PID control of the service boiler temperature.

If you get need another boiler, absolutely don't be afraid of adding a MA-TER XP110 pressurestat and SSR to switch the heating elements....then use the PID only for brew temperature. It will work much better that way because the PID isn't a proper dual loop unit and shares brew PID parameters with the steam boiler...which isn't what you want. Making the change to a pressurestat simplifies things if you add a completely different steam boiler and will actually give 20% better steam power.

 

Well worth an attempt to fix it up IMO....Mines the first one ever made serial number 0001 and I'd still never sell it...still looks like it came out of the factory. Nice grade thick steel, good machines for their time.

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Fantastic 😃   Thanks for the in depth response.  Definitely a few things to look into there, I'll be trying to sort out the boiler insulation over the weekend (the tech left the boilers bare) and will be checking for any leaks whilst I'm in there.  Everything continues to work well at the moment but I haven't looked inside for a week or so.      

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