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Dalian Power Mod


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Sorry for the delay in posting - just been a touch busy. I tried 4 roasts where I set the power to a consistent 2400W and kept CA at a consistent 9. All I did was adjust the SD. Must admit I didn't close the SD during FC. Tried turning power off  before FC, but maybe not long enough before, Had rise, crash and flick. If I had closed SD that might have helped during FC, but I'm not sure how much it would have helped. Know people will disagree with this, but In those 4 roasts must admit didn't feel like I was have a great control over the roast and the I can make changes mid-roast. I might change my mind if I try more times, but you are only changing the SD so from the original starting point I feel you are limited on what you can quickly adjust.

@RDC8 - thanks for video link I will take a look at all. Still ploughing through his "Modulating the flavour of coffee".

@Rob1 - Sorry don't know, but what roaster do you use?

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Hi All, Many thanks for your inputs - much appreciated. @Rob1 - yes 180 days. Just checked my 180 days is up next Saturday although they've gave me a couple of extra weeks due to covid-19 an

I usually roast with the Cooling Tray damper open fully, and use the SD to control the roast ROR. This avoids swirls of air in the roast chamber affecting readings....I like to pull minimum air, enoug

The warranty is only for 180 days isn't it?  I thought an idea to control the temp through and after first crack would be to have the element switch off entirely at a set point (depending on how

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Regarding an El Salvador I've attached a roast profile I did on Tuesday for the farmers market next week. Not sure if it's the same as yours "El Salvador - Finca El Diamante" from the Pacas and Pacamara variety. Hope it helps.

Is it me or from my limited experience the El Salvador is the most chaffy coffee I've roasted. I could not believe the amount of chaff that came off - thought Brazil was bad. Cupped it today and tasted good.

ElSav 073_2021.jpg

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@Dartmoor Coffee - yeah, the chaff on this bean is pretty bad (Honey Process). I end up having to use the vacuum cleaner to clear the drum before the next roast goes in!

Thanks for sharing the profile.

Did you get a Roast Vision reading for how dark/light this roast went?

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@Rob1 - Ok an amazon. Must admit I've never tried such a small batch weight. Surely that would create a faster roast time. Do you use Artisan or are you reading direct from the Amazon unit? From personal experience I found that the unit displays is a good 20c below the actual reading from the 3mm probe I added. I've also not tried the soak method. Not sure if it would work on the Amazon due to the lagging in the heat elements. From what I read it needs that instant heat, which cannot exist with electric roasters.
 

@RDC8 - Not yet. I will do it since need to get ready for the market. Will let you know when I've done it. Will try this weekend.

 

Phil.

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2 hours ago, Dartmoor Coffee said:

Ok an amazon. Must admit I've never tried such a small batch weight. Surely that would create a faster roast time. Do you use Artisan or are you reading direct from the Amazon unit? From personal experience I found that the unit displays is a good 20c below the actual reading from the 3mm probe I added. I've also not tried the soak method. Not sure if it would work on the Amazon due to the lagging in the heat elements. From what I read it needs that instant heat, which cannot exist with electric roasters.

 

Phil.

I'm using artisan. The soak method is fine from what I can tell, I've only read one thing on it and decided to see what would happen. The article I read was from Rao and he said something about not recommending having the burners off completely. With an element that translates simply as having it heat up and then switch it off for some early part of the roast (I had it off for about 1:30-2:00) before switching back on. The elements are hot but not nearly as hot as they would be if they were on and turning them back on doesn't take long for them to be up to temp again, logically. I can't think of a reason you'd need instant heat or why a bit of lag would be negative in that stage.

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One of the main reasons for “the soak” is for consistent in between batch protocol. This is particularly important on big machines with double wall drums and large thermal mass. 

It’s questionable how effective it is in a smaller roaster - especially with a perforated drum.

My roaster is single walled and whilst there’s a lot of metal (150kg) plus insulation- heat in the drum drops off fairly quickly with burner off.

So when soaking, I use low gas and minimal airflow. This helps me stabilise the machine for the next batch. I also find that this is good way to control the length of one’s drying phase - yet still be able to apply sufficient energy into the roast to achieve a decent peak ROR in order to maintain a steadily declining profile. 
 

I think this approach is particularly useful when roasting lower grown naturals, to get heat into the bean without scorching the exterior. 
 

cheers Phil

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The mod for computer control:

The wiring to the control panel is the same as with a dimmer, that is the connection to the element is removed and replaced with a wire, and a dimmer is connected in line. Here though, because I use an LED driver to power the SSR with 10vdc I have to make sure I'm taking live. The LED driver takes live from the input of the SSR via an appropriately rated in line fuse. The controls for the SSR are on top there, two wires go to the Digital Out Phidget, one goes to the LED driver. Neutral for the LED driver is pictured on the terminal block.  

Basically the wiring is as follows:

Live - SSR L1 ----- SSR L2 - Heating element
SSR L1 - Fuse - LED in+

LED Neutral - neutral on terminal block (everything is neutral aside from the one live pictured top far left (as far as I can tell). 

LED Out +/- to SSR control. Phidget +/- to SSR control.

Allows control over watts drawn of the heating element via artisan sliders or buttons. 

There are other phase control or burst fire SSRs you can use that don't require a power supply.  

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Hi @Rob1 and @Beeroclock -  just been looking at the soaking method. Think I might have mis-understood it or couldn't see how it worked with the roaster taking a long time to heat up so didn't bother. @Rob1 may I ask what is your charge temperature and is this on Artisan or Dalian? Currently charge 195/200 on Artisan (approx 170 on Dalian). I guess I was thinking having no power (or little just say 1000W), will badly affect my roast time. Even now my FC is around 10mins. Not having initial power will put the FC back quite I would suspect unless I have a higher charge temp. If anyone has any profile examples of soaking that would be great. Thanks

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19 minutes ago, Dartmoor Coffee said:

Hi @Rob1 and @Beeroclock -  just been looking at the soaking method. Think I might have mis-understood it or couldn't see how it worked with the roaster taking a long time to heat up so didn't bother. @Rob1 may I ask what is your charge temperature and is this on Artisan or Dalian? Currently charge 195/200 on Artisan (approx 170 on Dalian). I guess I was thinking having no power (or little just say 1000W), will badly affect my roast time. Even now my FC is around 10mins. Not having initial power will put the FC back quite I would suspect unless I have a higher charge temp. If anyone has any profile examples of soaking that would be great. Thanks

I've been charging as high as 220c on the Dalian but it's better lower I think. I really was just messing about with the soak to see what it would do.

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