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Be careful lubing something that may not be required (fnarr).

You could cause the thing to gum up or at worst catch fire.

Perhaps read the manufacturing notes from the valve?

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1 hour ago, phario said:

What type of rear shelf tabs did you have? The long one that extends over the entire rear or the shorter tabs?

The long one. There are two circles which should have been spot welds on the upturn of the rear shelf. Looks as if they were not welded properly. Small amount of rust around where the "weld" had been attempted on the inside face of the rear upright panel. Managed to lightly abrade both faces by pulling rear shelf down. Degreased then masked off with Frogtape before running full width bead of JB Weld across the rear shelf to rear face joint.

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1 hour ago, Blue_Cafe said:

Be careful lubing something that may not be required (fnarr).

You could cause the thing to gum up or at worst catch fire.

Perhaps read the manufacturing notes from the valve?

Thanks @Blue_Cafe and @phario It is an Olab 8000 series 3 way valve in very good condition, apart from the water inlet/outlet which contained a lot of calcium deposits but now fully cleaned up. Can't find anything about requiring lubrication so will leave well alone. 

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On 31/07/2020 at 18:08, phario said:

WD40 works as a penetrant and my impression would be much better than vinegar. 

Be very careful with stripping those bolts with the wrong tools...you don't want to be trying to torque it at an angle that might cause the head to slip. 

Here is a video on someone using the tapping/shocking technique: 

...

That said, that's pretty light corrosion compared to some of the ones I've seen...including a boiler from a Gaggia Evolution that sits on my desk because I stripped the bolts and now I have to try and drill it out one day.

@pharioI recently tried stripping down my Gaggia classic (2005 or so), many of the bolts were tough but one particuarly so and I ended up stripping the bolt (probably a cheap and not perfectly sized allen key). Is there anything I can do to fix this now its stripped? I think I saw somewhere a mention of cutting off the screw head or something?

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2 hours ago, asaul said:

@pharioI recently tried stripping down my Gaggia classic (2005 or so), many of the bolts were tough but one particuarly so and I ended up stripping the bolt (probably a cheap and not perfectly sized allen key). Is there anything I can do to fix this now its stripped? I think I saw somewhere a mention of cutting off the screw head or something?

You mean the boiler bolt? 

Options include (in order of severity): 

  • Hammer in a torx bit and use that
  • Dremel out a flathead slot (be careful here because you need a big flathead that will bridge the width of the bolt).
  • Dremel the bolt head off (the boiler is not threaded in); but even if the bolt head is off, the corrosion might be enough to hold the grouphead in place. 

Combine the above with heat, PB Blaster, WD40, etc. I would highly advise a vice to hold things in place. It makes sense to go down that list because you can do the next item from the previous. 

I'm not an expert. I myself have a boiler on my shelf with stripped bolts that I'm not sure how to get off. 

Edited by phario
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Yeah, I mean the boiler bolt in the corner that is being extracted in the video.

The boiler is working - just thought I would try and clean it out as it hadn't been descaled properly for years - so I'm hesitant to do anything too drastic. When you say dremel out a flathead slot, do you mean use a dremel drill too make a slot large enough to fit a screwdriver in? That doesn't sound too bad. I didn't use heat before so that also sounds like it might get me somewhere. Maybe I'll hold on until next time something is acting up though.

Thanks for the advice

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