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richwade80

ECM Mechanika Boiler Temp

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Update on this.

 

I ditched my milk thermometer and now just burn myself to know when to stop. The result is a far nicer cup, which I hold with bandaged hands...

 

I also got a group thermometer. To my surprise, the group does seem to run hot. It would get to 97 or probably 98 if left long enough.

 

To cool this down to 94 or so, I’ve found that you’d have to do something significant - basically make a drink to drop the resting temp by 2 degrees.

 

The flush and go method is confusing, as it doesn’t appear to make much difference, with a short flush at least.

 

If the group is at 96 before the cooling flush (to the end of flash boiling), the temp spikes by about 2 degrees before dropping, but only back to where it was really. The temp during the shot is also then 2 degrees higher, but does fall by 1 degree during the length of the shot.

 

If the group is at 92 (my current preferred spot) then you get a shorter flush to the end of flash boiling. The performance is similar though. The temp during the shot would be 94 to 93.

 

So it seems that machine does run hot to me. This would be okay if plumbed in, but is a pain if on your on bottles.

 

It’s okay if you catch the machine at the right temp while it’s heating up.

 

I’ve copied the graphs from the other thread here in case it’s useful.

 

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bbdf857f657eb9c14677299a118452a8.jpg

 

98d3a66a6ff5fda14c95d5d6b78e0723.jpg

 

104b712781ce831e92e6e9f28d7cdf9c.jpg

 

30135b51568453fd4355cc853371a1bc.jpg

 

9db7bee185823e3608277211c1ced869.jpg

 

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2000 - Krups Vivo + Whittard hand grinder

2010 - Gaggia Classic + Iberital MC2

2017 - ECM Mechanika IV Profi + Niche Zero

Aeropress / V60 / Puck Puck / Cafetière / Moka Pot / Ibrik (كـَنـَكـَة) / Lido E

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Hey Rich - nice to see you getting scientific with brew temp on your HX ;-)

 

My experience was that the group should run hotter at idle than brew as yours is - up to 98 or more after a long idle.

 

This was to warm the cooler brew water after a flush. After a long idle I would need a slightly longer flush especially for darker roasts

 

For me it was only from 3rd shot onwards that group head temp at idle was less than desired brew temp at which point I moved to no flush and let the heat of the super heated water in the HX actually warm the group head during the shot - so the thermal effect was reversed.


Plumbed in Vesuvius - BWT Bestmax - Niche in Black. Aeropress and Aergrind

 

Live and Let Live

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Hey Rich - nice to see you getting scientific with brew temp on your HX ;-)

 

My experience was that the group should run hotter at idle than brew as yours is - up to 98 or more after a long idle.

 

This was to warm the cooler brew water after a flush. After a long idle I would need a slightly longer flush especially for darker roasts

 

For me it was only from 3rd shot onwards that group head temp at idle was less than desired brew temp at which point I moved to no flush and let the heat of the super heated water in the HX actually warm the group head during the shot - so the thermal effect was reversed.

 

Thanks Kenny

 

I will consider deciphering what you just wrote over a few pints and a bottle of wine.

 

There’s always something to learn. It’s why I like this hobby more than most others.


2000 - Krups Vivo + Whittard hand grinder

2010 - Gaggia Classic + Iberital MC2

2017 - ECM Mechanika IV Profi + Niche Zero

Aeropress / V60 / Puck Puck / Cafetière / Moka Pot / Ibrik (كـَنـَكـَة) / Lido E

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Ha yeah sorry buddy - just reread it and it’s one of those that definitely makes sense...... to the writer!


Plumbed in Vesuvius - BWT Bestmax - Niche in Black. Aeropress and Aergrind

 

Live and Let Live

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