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Sage DB inner Shower Screen cracked.


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The plastic internal shower screen has cracked on my DB again.

 

Sage spare shop are out of stock. Are there any alternatives anyone is aware of ?

 

http:// https://sageappliances.co.uk/collections/bes920uk-parts/products/shower-screen-inner?variant=51392604868

 

Cheers in advance.

 

Make one from brass. Problem solved

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Is this a known problem? it is new to me but there again, lots of things are! If it is, then perhaps Joey can have another line of things to make!

The advantage of being a Silver member....

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If it's made of brass it will probably be something of a problem to prevent it from taking a lot of heat out of the coffee.

 

John

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Lots of machines hace brass dispersion blocks. All it's likely to do is add to the warmup time.
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If anyone finds a link to a suitable brass replacement can they post it please. Brass may take a little longer to heat up but will also retain heat for longer

The advantage of being a Silver member....

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I can supply the Simonelli shower holder in brass: SN part no. 07300183, 57.5mmD x 7mmH 6.5mm hole. Delivered price £12.00. Allow 3-4 days from order.

(I may also be able to supply other metal shower holders, but will need exact dimensions of your original one.)

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I can supply the Simonelli shower holder in brass: SN part no. 07300183, 57.5mmD x 7mmH 6.5mm hole. Delivered price £12.00. Allow 3-4 days from order.

(I may also be able to supply other metal shower holders, but will need exact dimensions of your original one.)

 

Do you know if this is compatible with the original sage screen ?

Also the other tread appeared to suggest 9mm not 7mm ?

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I don't know the dimensions of the Sage shower holder or the shower screen.

The Simonelli shower screen is 57 x 3.7mm.

Simonelli also do a 57.5 x 9mm deep holder. Price would be the same, but delivery would be longer (ex-Italy)

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Lots of machines hace brass dispersion blocks. All it's likely to do is add to the warmup time.

 

Sage as usual are a bit different - the plastic part clamps down onto the grouphead seal not onto the heated bit. Not sure why they do this as it doesn't need that much of a pressure seal. Maybe that's why people are breaking them - doing them up too tight. All they need to do really is a little more than hold the seal in place.

 

John

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Sage as usual are a bit different - the plastic part clamps down onto the grouphead seal not onto the heated bit. Not sure why they do this as it doesn't need that much of a pressure seal. Maybe that's why people are breaking them - doing them up too tight. All they need to do really is a little more than hold the seal in place.

 

John

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Then it's definately gonna add to the heatup time. Thanks for confirming.

 

It's possible they do it because the plastic part doesn't need heating & I suspect you're correct in your assumption.

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Sage as usual are a bit different - the plastic part clamps down onto the grouphead seal not onto the heated bit. Not sure why they do this as it doesn't need that much of a pressure seal. Maybe that's why people are breaking them - doing them up too tight. All they need to do really is a little more than hold the seal in place.

 

John

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Yes I can see how this might happen - overtighten when it’s cold putting it in compression and the when it heats and cools over many cycles it could cause a stress fracture right across the diameter.

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I know mine had been done up so tight it was difficult to get off again. Also the tank drain screws. I just took it off for cleaning and didn't look at the "detail". My recollection is 2 radiused annular grooves. One for the plastic bit and one for the rim on the portafilter. Not exactly a modern idea of how seals should work. ;) Some might say dated and misguided but there might be a reason they have done it this way.

 

John

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Here's the bits

 

DbGroupHead.jpg

 

It would be a bit difficult to measure to be sure but it looks like that as soon as the screw firms up when it's tightened the boss in the middle of the plastic spreader is up against the metal work in the head. So all it is doing really is keeping the seal in place. There would be no point in overtightening the screw. That would just be trying to crush the plastic.

 

John

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Yep, that’s what I found and thought it doesn’t need much tightening, you can feel it ‘squish’ (engineering term) and compress everything as it tightens. I did mine up tightish and then backed off a fraction, seems ok

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;) The term for me is nip it up - very slight further tightening when it goes solid.. Easy to do with the hex key the way round shown in the photo. I had to use a full sized hex key to get mine out.

 

:act-up:They might still crack but overtightening can't be a good idea.

 

John

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I played around with a brass plate and an IMS shower screen a while back. It gave a nicer "looking" stream out of the group, but somehow more coffee seems to find its way behind the screen and it was harder to keep clean. Seem to remember @garydyke1 found the same before?

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