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EK 43 alignment grinding chamber

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Think it was a couple of hundred € + P&P but I’ll double check and confirm as I’d asked for a few extras.

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So, I read this entire thread all the way through about ten times over six months, finally understood it, bought everything - sandpaper, cutting oil, glue, cutting mat, scalpel, torque screwdriver. Then the Titus alignment tool arrived and it looks like the stationary burr is out by max 0.02mm from the factory... I should just leave it alone, right?

 

Not sure whether to laugh or to cry.

 

IMG_0303.jpg

Edited by chanstheorem
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Thought this might be of interest. I removed the stationary burr and used the Titus tool on the chamber. The gauge shows 0.025mm at the same spot. In my mind, this has confirmed that the chamber is causing the misalignment. I think I will go ahead and start sanding.

 

IMG_0311.jpg

 

So, I read this entire thread all the way through about ten times over six months, finally understood it, bought everything - sandpaper, cutting oil, glue, cutting mat, scalpel, torque screwdriver. Then the Titus alignment tool arrived and it looks like the stationary burr is out by max 0.02mm from the factory... I should just leave it alone, right?

 

Not sure whether to laugh or to cry.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35054[/ATTACH]

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As someone about to start sanding mine in the next week or so, I’d take 0.02mm as an endpoint

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That's me done after about 16 hours of work. Here is my debrief...

 

Chamber: After sanding with 11 layers of 240 grit silicon carbide paper - I ended up with a delta of

 

Stationary burr: Despite improving the chamber, the stationary burr still had a delta of 0.02mm. I'm guessing it's because my burrs are fairly worn out. I ended up sticking in a 0.02mm shim at the lowest point. This resulted in a delta of

 

Rotating burr: Who knows? For what its worth - I used the Perger whiteboard marker method and a single 0.04mm shim.

 

Result: I'm reserving my subjective judgement for the time being, but I've pulled three shots so far and using the same coffee and recipe I was using before alignment - shot times are now longer (30s. vs. 23s.) My last shot had an EY of 23.8%, which is now a personal best. The grounds are noticeably fluffier and sit much higher in my portafilter now.

 

I guess we can call this another success story?

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That's me done after about 16 hours of work. Here is my debrief...

 

Chamber: After sanding with 11 layers of 240 grit silicon carbide paper - I ended up with a delta of

 

Stationary burr: Despite improving the chamber, the stationary burr still had a delta of 0.02mm. I'm guessing it's because my burrs are fairly worn out. I ended up sticking in a 0.02mm shim at the lowest point. This resulted in a delta of

 

Rotating burr: Who knows? For what its worth - I used the Perger whiteboard marker method and a single 0.04mm shim.

 

Result: I'm reserving my subjective judgement for the time being, but I've pulled three shots so far and using the same coffee and recipe I was using before alignment - shot times are now longer (30s. vs. 23s.) My last shot had an EY of 23.8%, which is now a personal best. The grounds are noticeably fluffier and sit much higher in my portafilter now.

 

I guess we can call this another success story?

 

How are your burrs worn down, what have you been doing to them?

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How are your burrs worn down, what have you been doing to them?

 

Not sure. Could be a bit too aggressive when trying to zero them each time. There are quite a few visible chips and scratches on the surface of both burrs. My EK clatters a lot when the burrs are close to touching. I've never been able to get a clean "chirp".

 

I guess the misalignment could also be inherent to the burr out of the factory. I have no idea how accurately they are made.

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My chamber is way out..

I thought I'd test it before using Franks alignment tool on the bottom burr.

 

After that I've just spent the afternoon trying to shim the bottom burr, get so close, make a small adjustment and it throws it out again.. Each time having to remove the tool and burr. Argh!! I'll get there in the end, but given up tonight as it's getting too dark (plus I'm having a beer...)

 

Might be worth trying to sand the chamber first. Hopefully it isn't too hard to do. :rolleyes:


Input: 'Terranovered’ Versalab M3 + Mahlkonig EK43 Turkish burrs + Niche

Output: KVdW Speedster + V60 + AeroPress + Syphon + Bialetti Induction Moka Pot + Bialetti Mucka Express + jar of instant for visitors..

 

 

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able to expose a static knife only with the help of foil. Why for some method with grinding does not work?

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Hi there, i just bought a used ek which has been layerd/shimmed on the fixed burr. I do not have access to a titus tool. I was wandering if i should try the sanding method, but since i am not a techie and since some people here had say mixed results i thought to ask for a rough guess if i should do it at all, since sanding would for sure destroy the status quo of the layerd burr, which may or may not be ok....i thought maybe some people could throw in some dial numbers - i know that there are say a million factors which influence the results....so: i only do really LIGHT nordic FILTER roasts as espresso (cinnamon to new england, before first crack or just finished, at the moment i‘m on april filter subscription)....8.5 bar VST 18 with 18g and my range for 1:2-1:2.5 shots is 1.5 to 2 in say 26-35 seconds. Around 55 seconds on 1 till 1g is in the cup with a washed rwanda. Would be nice to have some input. If it disturbes the flow of the thread i‘m happy with PM... thx a lot

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Hi Eeffo, it might be worth sharing what burrs are you running? The stock ones are old coffee, Turkish and new coffee - might be worth having a look online to see which ones they are.

 

I’m unsure as to how accurate your findings will be as you’ll be susceptible to zeroing it the same way as everyone else.

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25-45 secs is quite normal for Ekspresso. If you can run 55 secs before first drip, at setting one, you're unlikely to be running original coffee burrs. What does it say on the side of the EK - should be a sticker with 'coffee' or 'Turkish' on it.


Londinium-R - EKS43 running SSP Silver Knight burrs

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hi, ìˋm terribly sorry, the most important aspect slipped away: i am on the new stock coffee burrs mounted since 2015 i think....and the shot rimes were for 1:2 - 1:2.5 ratios for really light filter as espresso....

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With the new coffee burrs, you should be able to grind for espresso 0.5 - 1.0 and 12 - 14 for V60 - depending on how tightly you've zeroed the burrs. Mahlkonig recommend you find burr contact point - tell tale ringing sound - then back off 10 degrees (which is next to nothing) and then finish tightening up the knob which should be pointing to zero. As you are using light roasts for ekspresso, you will soon find out if your shots are under-extracted as they will be battery acid sour with lighter roasts. If your EK is taming light roasts, as it should, you should be tasting the beans notes without severe acidity. If the tasting notes are, say, lemon or grapefruit, you should be getting that without any mouth puckering unpleasantness. As I said above, extractions in the 40 sec plus band are perfectly normal for EKs as long as the taste in the cup is to your liking.

 

With lighter roasts, it's always better to pull long 1:2 or longer. If you go ristretto with lighter beans you won't extract sufficiently and the sourness will come through.


Londinium-R - EKS43 running SSP Silver Knight burrs

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thx for the input! so it might well be that my ek is already aligned in a tolerable manner since my range is 1.5-2 (should be more or less comparable to 0.5-1 as far as i can judge from comparing the dials). i also own a MK proM with titus coated ek8/ek10 burrs, so i am already used to more unimodal tasting (one can say this proM is an ek light). the clarity and sweetness were what i wanted to improve. which the ek does, but the jump from "normal" grinders to the proM was way bigger than from the proM to ek, so far. there is noticeable difference, but i think i am now on the last (centi)meters of the pareto curve :rolleyes:...so @thesystemickid, if i get you right, not being a techie, i might worsen things given the status quo....

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Yep. Old saying, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'. If your ekspresso are tasting sweet with balanced acidity, the burrs are doing their job.


Londinium-R - EKS43 running SSP Silver Knight burrs

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Posted (edited)

I guess we can call this another success story?

 

Yes you can, but mainly by luck, in most cases the burr carrier is the MUCH bigger error source.

If you go for the sanding method, you just transmit the error of the burr carrier into the case.

You cannot align the moving burr by layers / shims, also the marker method doesn´t work for the rotating burr.

 

 

 

 

A lathe machine is the only possible way to fix the burr carrier / alignment for moving burr.

It is not a big deal to do so, ask your local machining shop.

2nd biggest error source are the burrs, in 3 or maybe even 4 out of 10 sets it is just not possible to pull a proper shot without burrs touching, of course after stationary burr + burr carrier running better than

Is it because of less fines? Or the burrs are f***ed? slightly different geometry? No idea, but it is the burrs fault in that case.

 

Regards

 

Frank

Edited by Terranova

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Yes you can, but mainly by luck, in most cases the burr carrier is the MUCH bigger error source.

If you go for the sanding method, you just transmit the error of the burr carrier into the case.

You cannot align the moving burr by layers / shims, also the marker method doesn´t work for the rotating burr.

 

A lathe machine is the only possible way to fix the burr carrier / alignment for moving burr.

It is not a big deal to do so, ask your local machining shop.

2nd biggest error source are the burrs, in 3 or maybe even 4 out of 10 sets it is just not possible to pull a proper shot without burrs touching.

Is it because of less fines? Or the burrs are f***ed? slightly different geometry? No idea, but it is the burrs fault in that case.

 

Regards

 

Frank

 

I managed to align the moving burr carrier, probably more by luck than anything. I spun it round, slid it onto the shaft (so it was back to front) and fasted the alignment tool to the EK's casing onto one of the screw holes that the front plate is fastened on by. Then I just gently spun the carrier on the spindle. The carrier on mine was way out but now is a lot better than it was. I also marked the burrs rotaional postion on the carrier so I put them back in the same place each time. I'm just happy to have it sat next to my machine and be able to make lovely espresso again. But yes, a lathe would have been much better and easier..


Input: 'Terranovered’ Versalab M3 + Mahlkonig EK43 Turkish burrs + Niche

Output: KVdW Speedster + V60 + AeroPress + Syphon + Bialetti Induction Moka Pot + Bialetti Mucka Express + jar of instant for visitors..

 

 

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I believe I have looked through this forum and did not see an answer to this question:

We are looking at purchasing a pre-sanded / aligned machine from Prima Coffee, who is now offering this service with a fee. I recently heard that this might be temporary as Mahlkonig might try and possibly stop retail outlets from offering this as a service? Another retailer seemingly more apt to tow the party line is offering the EK43 ALIGNMENT TOOL as an alternative, discouraging modifying the machines. My question is this, what have ya'lls experiences been?

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They offer different types of alignment if I’m not mistaken. Ones radial others parallel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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