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Dalian Amazon Experiences


NAJB

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haha, well... I've turbo charged my system by adding a secondary in-line variable speed suction fan.

The good thing about those damper flaps is you can control air intake very well. The shorter/less resistant your ducting, the less air you need to pull through. [emoji6]

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I do have a question related to clearance between drum and front plate: what is the recommended gap?

Why am I asking: after 2/3 roasts on my machine, there is a bit of chaff floating into the drum  and perhaps widening the gap will solve this.

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13 minutes ago, Dotix said:

I do have a question related to clearance between drum and front plate: what is the recommended gap?

Why am I asking: after 2/3 roasts on my machine, there is a bit of chaff floating into the drum  and perhaps widening the gap will solve this.

No it won't. The chaff starts in the drum, then falls out of the holes.

I recommend a gap of about 1-2mm when hot.

CFUK, the biggest, best and most friendly forum in the UK...with a wealth of knowledge among its many members.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now that i’ve gotten my chimney and reference profile in place and after around 30-40 roasts, I’m really loving the dalian. Love how i can so easily control it to fix/adjust my profiles and getting some results i’m really excited about. 
 

But...kaizen! There is one little thing i’d love to improve on: the reeeaaally tiny Trier. I’d love for it to be probably 3 or 4 times the size it is today. It would allow for samples to be taken out, and for the smells and visuals to be amplified. Looking at and smelling 3 or 4 beans seems a bit useless and i do use the trier quite a bit. 

Not sure where to start and whether getting a bigger Trier without a bigger hole on the front plate is at all possible in the first place. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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11 minutes ago, Sr249 said:

Now that i’ve gotten my chimney and reference profile in place and after around 30-40 roasts, I’m really loving the dalian. Love how i can so easily control it to fix/adjust my profiles and getting some results i’m really excited about. 
 

But...kaizen! There is one little thing i’d love to improve on: the reeeaaally tiny Trier. I’d love for it to be probably 3 or 4 times the size it is today. It would allow for samples to be taken out, and for the smells and visuals to be amplified. Looking at and smelling 3 or 4 beans seems a bit useless and i do use the trier quite a bit. 

Not sure where to start and whether getting a bigger Trier without a bigger hole on the front plate is at all possible in the first place. Any help is greatly appreciated.

You won't get too much from smelling hot beans in the tryer no matter how big. If you angle the tryer to the 10 o clock position it will collect more beans and faster.

CFUK, the biggest, best and most friendly forum in the UK...with a wealth of knowledge among its many members.

 

 

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19 minutes ago, DavecUK said:

You won't get too much from smelling hot beans in the tryer no matter how big. If you angle the tryer to the 10 o clock position it will collect more beans and faster.

Hi @DavecUK,

yes i agree that the 10 o’clock position is the best (got there through some trial and error). Even somewhat pushing the trier slightly sideways before pulling it out helps. However, the amount of beans in the trier is still too small if you need a sample every 30 seconds for cupping for example. Or just to get a visual indication of where the roast is at. Taking multiple samples hasn’t worked well for cupping since each sample would be too close to the next. 
That and having more beans to analyse would be useful. 
 

i wonder what would happen if i had to have say a longer trier machined somewhere. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is a probably a @DavecUK question, but feel free to chime in even if you didn't have a hand in designing the roaster...

Is there any reason why an alternative can't be used instead of the solid aluminium ducting between the roaster and the cyclone? We're looking at external premises tomorrow and if we don't have the cyclone higher than the roaster we might have difficulty keeping the ducting from cyclone to outside at less than 2m. 

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If you can keep the ducting between cyclone and outside as straight as possible and go for a larger diameter than the supplied 80mm you should be OK for a little longer. I have two sweeping bends an extra 18" at a 100mm via an adaptor and the smoke belches out with vigour. You do have to be aware that any changes you do make will have an effect on the damper position when trying to duplicate previous roasts of a given coffee.

@NAJB had a plate made up to replace the outlet connection at the cyclone in order to take a bigger bore pipe...something you may wish to consider? I plan to copy his lead at some point.

@Hasi is a is genned up on this, airflow and ducting is his line of work, so you may like to run some pictures and diagrams past him?

 

(QED!)

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10 hours ago, filthynines said:

This is a probably a @DavecUK question, but feel free to chime in even if you didn't have a hand in designing the roaster...

Is there any reason why an alternative can't be used instead of the solid aluminium ducting between the roaster and the cyclone? We're looking at external premises tomorrow and if we don't have the cyclone higher than the roaster we might have difficulty keeping the ducting from cyclone to outside at less than 2m. 

Aerodynamic restrictions I would say. The longer the pipe, the more air needs to be moved, requiring more power. Solid ducting creates way less internal turbulence, therefore also aiding air flow tremendously. Changing length, geometry or material of this thing will likely alter your roasting results or requires you to change your damper settings when cyclone fan is less effective.
Then, there's the cleaning aspect. This piece of pipe can be removed and wiped clean internally very easily, apart from the smooth surfaces limiting build-up of debris in the first place. Because in the end, you want to collect dust and chaff in cyclone tray, not inside the ducting eh? :D

 

You can use a secondary extractor fan if you need to route ducting around the premises. Usually these fans are designed to pull, so install next to wall exit. Include service/access panels or removable sections (best to use elbows for that!) to clean ducting as an extractor fan will happily pull chaff and oily fumes along into the pipework.

I've done it that way, also installed a dimmer switch to control fan speed which comes in handy as fan blades start to collect dust and debris, becoming less effective. I run my external fan at around 50% and eventually tune up to full throttle during a period of 50-70 batches, then do my clean-it-all routine that takes roughly 30mins.

How do I know what's the ideal fan speed setting? Before I start my roaster I'll slowly turn dimmer switch dial until I can see the cooling blades (behind wire mesh) of cyclone fan begin to spin. I carefully back off until they stop again. Starting roaster and cyclone fan will create just enough air speed to extract fumes nicely without affecting roasting profiles/settings.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

@Hasi Question #637 - Can you show me a website that shows the in-line extractor fan you bought, please? Even if it's Austrian at least I'll have something to go off. Searching for "extractor fan" is not helping me!

Also, does it need to be rated for above 50 degrees c? I suspect not, but I guess I should check!

Edited by filthynines
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On 12/02/2020 at 06:28, Batian said:

If you can keep the ducting between cyclone and outside as straight as possible and go for a larger diameter than the supplied 80mm you should be OK for a little longer. I have two sweeping bends an extra 18" at a 100mm via an adaptor and the smoke belches out with vigour. You do have to be aware that any changes you do make will have an effect on the damper position when trying to duplicate previous roasts of a given coffee.

@NAJB had a plate made up to replace the outlet connection at the cyclone in order to take a bigger bore pipe...something you may wish to consider? I plan to copy his lead at some point.

@Hasi is a is genned up on this, airflow and ducting is his line of work, so you may like to run some pictures and diagrams past him?

 

(QED!)

Sorry @Batian - I didn't see your initial post between my own and Hasi's! Thanks for this input, too.

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@Hasi

You posted some order numbers for Thermosense a little while ago for the PT100 sensors. The quotation I've been given is on the following spec:

Pt100 Sensor Assemblies c/w Crimp Seal

Sheath Diameter : 3.0mm
Simplex / Duplex : Duplex
Probe Length : 50mm
Wiring Configuration : 3-Wire
Grade of Element : B
End Seal : Plain Crimp Seal
Extension Cable : 1.5 metres of 6 core PFA insulated and sheathed
stranded, 7/0.1mm diameter, conductors

Does that seem right to you? Thanks!

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22 hours ago, filthynines said:

@Hasi Question #637 - Can you show me a website that shows the in-line extractor fan you bought, please? Even if it's Austrian at least I'll have something to go off. Searching for "extractor fan" is not helping me!

Also, does it need to be rated for above 50 degrees c? I suspect not, but I guess I should check!

 

I've got the smallest one, KSDF 125:

16395767703996052880.thumb.jpg.df71a53bdd193c5482328c1e939a2659.jpg

17102531394426981290.thumb.jpg.89dec09d53a226f36df2d6979accc72e.jpg

 

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