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Dalian Amazon Experiences

60K views 548 replies 49 participants last post by  CarloScarito 
#1 ·
Just wondering whether we could have a thread where owners/users of the little Damian Amazon can post experiences of their roasts.

You will have noted that the Amazon is a new toy for me, although I have lots of experience of roasting at-home, but based on machines with fewer manual inputs (HotTop for about 8 years followed by a Gene Cafe for the last 3, or is it 4).

The Amazon has been a bit of an eye-opener and so far I have completed 4 roasts, the firs three with a Papua New Guinea bean and the fourth with a Brazil (Vale do Sol) bean.

After those 4 roasts I sat sown and read the more detailed DaveC manual to try and determine why I was seeing what I was seeing (pretty short roast times and 'odd' temperatire measurements). Subjective tests of the effects of the 2 dampers (I don't have access to an air flow meter) suggest that I get fill fan flow with either one of the 2 dampers open, ie opening the second whilst the first is open has negligible effect on air flow. Closing both results in a vastly reduced flow. To me this means that I have either (a) a fairly leak tight machine where the air flow is dominated by the inlet resistance (high) (b) the ducting is limiting the airflow, ie the ducting resistance is high. I suppose I should emove the ducting to find out which it is, but that will blow chaff everywhere (and yes the tray is clear!).

Anyway onto the results of the roasts (temperature/times are quoted as time bean (air)

PNG 1; 0 190 (190), 2 147 (167), 4 151 (153) [sD open to 1cm], 6 164 (170), 8 176 (179), 10 186 (191), 11 192 (198)

First crack at 9:15, beans dumped at just under 12, a little late, but this rot was bound for the rubbish bin as per the notes supplied with the machine.

I then allowed the machine to cool completely before undertaking some back-to-back roasts

PNG 2; 0 180 (196), 2 147 (167), 4 151 (153) [sD open to 1cm], 6 163 (167), 8 173 (177) 10 184 (191), 11 187 (195)

First crack at 9;50, dumped at 11;50; a little over-roasted (for me)

PNG 3; 0 196 (218), 2 159 (178), 4 162 (164) [sD open to 1cm], 6 172 (178), 8 184 (189) [sD open to 2cm], 10 194 (204), 11 198 (210)

First crack at 9;40, dumped at 11;10; better looking roast

BVdS; 0 183 (210), 2 163 (186), 4 170 (172) [sD open to 1cm], 6 180 (180), 8 192 (197) [sD open to 2cm at 7m], 9 195 (200)

First crack at 8;30, dumped at 10;10; better looking roast

The earlier crack for the BVdS was no unexpected based on my roasts on the GC, but each bean was cracking around 4m earlier than the GC!

I do not see air temperatures getting anywhere close to the heater trip setpoint.
 
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#2 ·
This is a useful suggestion @NAJB. I too have come from a simpler roasting environment and am on a learning curve with managing temperature through the airflow dampers. Started with a Brazil Santos. Quite disapointed with the first few attempts - but getting better results yesterday. One problem has been scorch marks on some of the beans - not sure what I have been doing wrong to get this happening. However - also put through a roast of Colombian; with a very different result. The colombian was much more evenly roasted and were noticeably larger than the Santos. So not sure if the scorching is down to the type of bean being used.

Compared to your experience, I am using a much slower ROR - only about 3 degrees per minute. First crack is coming at much lower temperatures (The lower temps are also puzzling me as to why the beans might be scorching??)

Anyway; results from yesterday. I record things slightly different - I dont worry about the BT for the first four minutes. I also only record the BT, not the ET

Santos - SD=2cm CA = 4cm: 0 190, 4 143, 5 146 (open SD to 6cm @ 5:40), 6 150, (open SD to 7cm @ 6:50), 7 154, 8 157, 9 161 (open SD to 8cm @ 9:30), 10 165, 11 170 (killed heat at 11:00 to slow ROR) 1st crack 11:15, restarted heat @ 11:45), 12 174 (Kill heat @ 12:12), Dumped @ 12:55. 1kg in, 855gm out.

Colombian - SD = 1cm CA = 2cm: 0 190, 4 142 (open SD to 3cm), 5 154, 6 147 (open SD to 4cm @ 6:45), 7 150, 8 152, 9 155, 10 157, 11 159, 12 161, 13 163, 14 167 (first crack @ 14:40), 15 169 (open SD to 5cm @ 15:30), 16 171, Dumped at 16:45. 1kg in, 855gm out.

For both roasts the temp bottomed out at 138 after dropping in the beans - again a much lower temp than you are experiencing.

Any thoughts/suggestions/input from more experiences roasters much appreciated.
 
#3 ·
I've had the roaster for a week now, did a huge roast session on Saturday, controlling ROR is ok, but 1c is coming much earlier than anticipated.

Using various beans and experimenting with airflow 1st crack is still happening at 165-170ish and the coffees tasting a little under developed. I'm heating the drum up to 160-170 dropping the beans, temp drops to 125-130 ish and 1c starts at 165-170 I was expecting this to happen at about 185-190, I've opened airflow up 12.5-25% but this just extends roast time and not temperature of 1C.

Any suggestions please?
 
#4 ·
The temperature of the beans at first crack, if you could get a tiny probe inside the bean, would be in the region of 195c on average. The temperature you record at 1c is more a function of your probe placement, so if this happens at 165-170 as long as its consistent that is the main thing. It probably means that your dropping the beans in between 190-195 by extrapolating your 1c temp difference - which shouldn't cause scorching. The key points are the time of 1c and the time from this to the drop time (development). As long as the ror is declining during the roast and development time is 20%-25% you should get some great tasting roasts. Dave C, the guru on this roaster, will be able to let you know how to slow the time taken to 1c if this is what you want to do, without doing the power mod, just with the dampers.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Like I said in the review, this roaster can roast really fast, even though the heating element are nominal 2.5Kw, no lack of power.

I can't give a roasting less on on line, but I can do 2 things: Some advice on critical information to keep....because I don't see enough to help me advise you.

  • You need to buy the energy monitor I recommended or one that is as accurate (many are not). Then understand the power draw of your roaster for any resting voltage, plus the voltage drop under load. Without this it's not easy to help.
  • You need to always note the 1st crack temp
  • Average rate of rise
  • charge temp and what it bottoms out to before it starts rising, also how long that takes.
  • How long are you warming up for
  • what are your controller settings
  • what does the big analogue gauge say

2. I can run a session to show you how I am using the roaster, if enough people are interested....but I will charge to ensure maximum attention is paid.

Dave
 
#6 ·
Just as an addition, winter and summer can be different voltage can vary, so you need to modify a little what's in my guide for your roaster, voltage venting and time of year etc.. Some golden rules below to help you.

When you turn the roaster on always check the temperatures for bean mass (left) and environmental temp within the drum housing (right), pretty much show the actual temperature where the roaster is situated. e,g, Today mine might have both shown 20C. you might see a 1C variance. if it doesn't show the actual temp, then something could be wrong

Note the temp when 1st comes on your roaster if it's a fast time, try lowering the controller temp to slow down first. The ideal temp for the left hand controller (bean mass) as the probe is quite accurate is at or just below the ideal temp/time for 1st. For my roaster that's around 192.

There is sufficient heat within the roaster+ the more exothermic reaction of 1st to take you right through to second once the heating elements cut off. Mine will cut off at 192 and 1st and the temp will still continue to slowly rise. They don't usually come on again until I have dumped the roast.

Always start roasting once the roaster fully warms up, this will be around 22 minutes in summer and 26 minutes in winter. Ensure the max setting on the bean mass probe is hit, possibly more than once.

When roasting don't try and put the beans in at a specially low temp, this is only a 1kg roaster with a perforated drum hence 40% less drum contact area. you can put the beans in at the temperature the left hand controller switches off. When back to back roasting start a new roast immediately after dumping the roast and closing the hatch. Don't open hatch too wide so you don't loose too much heat. No wait no cooldown, get those beans straight in.

They can all be a tiny bit different. Also especially @NAJB take notice.

CA = Fully open and SD closed only for first 2 mins of roast (or shorter if that works for you, not longer), then open to 2 or even 3cm depending on your roaster. it also depends on the power of your heating element some can vary (up to 10%) from 2450 to 2700W. this means you might need more air. if your seeing rises that calculating forward means you will reach 1st sooner than you want, add more air with the smoke damper to slow it down. e.g if 1st is at 192 and your at 170 with 6C per min rise (count rise for 20s to see what it will be for the minute). then in about 4 m your going to be at or close to 1st crack temp. If that's what you want great, if not slow it down. Also don't force first too quickly, try to get first at around 10-11 minutes, not 6-8 minutes. 7-8m roasts are for those people in the world roasting championships...not for coffee you can drink.

Also set your controller to around 192, that's what I find good now....I usually use around 191 to 193 depending on the bean and less for Monsooned Malabar.

================================================

@RDC8 I don't know why your roasts are hitting 1st at such low temperatures. I'm wondering if they have wired the probes to the wrong controllers. The Bean Mass probe (left hand controller) should almost always show a lower temperature than the other probe during the roast. Post what the right hand controller was showing!




When viewing the roaster from the front the K type thermocouple should be the probe on the RIGHT side of the drum spindle and terminate in a connector for a thermometer that takes those probes. The one on the LEFT hand side of the drum spindle is the PT100 probe and should be connected to the left hand controller.





if they are connected the wrong way round on your controllers and the right hand controller is showing 190 ish and the left 170 ish while you have first crack it's not a huge problem, just reverse the air temp roaster temp signs and program the controller appropriately.

you could also have a sanity check and tell me what the analogue controller is saying as well as the K type thermocouple (both these tend to read lower than the bean mass probe).

=======================================

The PT100 bean mass sensors in the Dalian are really accurate and the main one that should guide the roast...one that's showing 170 may be placed incorrectly (this is hard to do in manufacture), but is more likely to be faulty, or perhaps have some bad wiring into the left hand controller..If you have a bad sensor BB would send you a replacement.

===========================

Overall though guys more concise and better information required, don't assume I know which controller your looking at, your power draw, voltage etc.. etc...
 
#7 ·
Hi Dave

I bought the monitor as recommended, I also use the SCAE profile log to trace my roasting results.

I just roasted a 500g batch - dropped at 190

turning point at 140

ROR initially 10 degrees per minute but slowed

1c at 5 minutes at 166

ended roast at 6.30 (20% ish of roast time)

The roasters draws 2555w when roasting

1st crack temp has been between 160 -170.

ROR starts at 10 degrees C per minute to start and reduces, I understand how to control that with airflow

Warming up for 25 minutes until desired drop temperature is reached

Control settings - both vents closed. Do I need chaff vent on whilst warming up machine?

Where are you based, a roasting session and chat would be great.

M
 
#8 ·
Many thanks DaveC for your input. I had thought that I should open the S Damper more in order to control dT/dt. It appears that my roasts are cracking a little earlier than you would prefer to see so your suggestion of opening the S Damper is helpful.

I will also adjust the trip setting on the LH controller (currently set at 195 by BB). And I await my power meter.

DaveC, if you are serious about organising a lesson I would be very interested.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
CampervanCoffeeCo said:
Hi Dave

I bought the monitor as recommended, I also use the SCAE profile log to trace my roasting results.

I just roasted a 500g batch - dropped at 190

turning point at 140

Control settings - both vents closed. Do I need chaff vent on whilst warming up machine?

Where are you based, a roasting session and chat would be great.

M
2550W is fine for the heating power (,ine only draws 2450W). If your turning point shown is 140 on the left controller, then that's around 6C more than mine, but even that discrepancy doesn't explain why your getting 1st at 160-170, unless you are using the K type thermocouple....because it sounds more the the temperatures that probe would show as it's only partially in the bean mass as it falls near the Tryer.

When warming up the machine I run with the CA fully open and smoke damper closed until 8-10 minutes have elapsed then open to 2CM. The fact you are even asking this question worries me, because key information about how to warm up and how to roast are in the Quick start Guide ver 1.4 that should have come the roaster. For obvious reasons I didn't replicate all this in the user guide again.




The manuals you should all have are:





1. Unpacking and installation guide (5 pages)





2. Quick Start Guide (10 pages)





3. User Guide (42 pages) - this is a more advanced guide that doesn't cover the basic roasting process, but talks about concepts, coffees, running a roastery etc..It does not cover what's in the QS guide which actually tells you how to roast in the Dalian!







I'm based in Surrey a few miles from Weybridge Station (a 30m train ride from London Waterloo). I will be happy to run a session for both of you, but it would be cheaper if there was a 3rd person who was interested. It would probably require a 4-6 hour session.
 
#13 ·
CampervanCoffeeCo said:
Hi Dave

Yes, I don't have the quick start guide. I'll also contact BB

I just roasted a full kg and 1c was nearer 185-190. As you mentioned I don't think the bean mass was getting to the thermocouple.

Many thanks for help so far, I'm slowly ironing out the problems.

M

Oh christ yeah, just looked at 1 of the posts and I see your roasting 500g, with that you will be seeing a drum env temp, sort of the same as the K type thermocouple sees and 1st would be more around 170 ish. As you say because the beans are not surrounding the probe
. I only ever tested 1 and 1.2Kg loads in it....I "think you might be able to roast 750g, but I'm not sure how accurate the bean mass temp would be. If it's Monsooned Malabar, you ould probably get away with 700g as the coffee is very light to start with and rather fills a roasting chamber quite easy. So nothing wrong with your temp controller after all.

this is a commercial grade roaster made for roasting a 1kg charge and will roast up to 1.2kg charge. That's how I designed things with the thermometry. Also the probe can't be placed lower as it would foul drum components, there just wasn't space without a complete redesign. If anyone wants to roast less, technique needs to be adjusted. 500g will definitely miss the bean mass probe, you will have to roast via environmental temperature and use much more care....as you are all finding out. This roaster is designed to easily pump out Kg after Kg at a rate of 4kg per hour (back to back roasting), hour after hour after hour.

beyond emptying the chaff tray every 8-12 roasts (you can do it whilst roasting) and vacuum under/top of the cooling tray every 100 kg it will do it's job for 1000s of kilos before requiring even the most basic maintenance or so. A normal hobbyist home user will probably NEVER need to do any maintenance....nothing., simply because it's 1000s of kg before basic maintenance would be required.

It's not a roaster that's ideal for 500g batches, that's not where it's roast quality shines because more mass means a better roast...always. It's a 1kg roaster (the best I've ever used), that knocks more expensive roasters right out of the park. A 1kg Toper which costs double, is not even half as good....I know because I had one. if you want to sit in front of a microchip filled roaster watching a computer screen this is not the roaster for you. if you want to produce some of the most; evenly roasted chaff free and great tasting beans you have ever had, whilst manually controlling the roast as required....then the Dalian is for you.

P.S. I even purchased a spare eliwelly controller and PT100 probe, probably one of the more complex electronic parts in the roaster, it was £28 and arrived within a week.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261081969245?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

In fact many parts can be sourced from other places e.g. main Power relay from RS components £6 or a superior relay with double the life for £9, and it's a simple push fit replacement!

It's a simple, but good commercial unit. I know there is the Bullet, but for £2500, unless space was an issue, or you like computer games, I can't imagine why someone wouldn't stump up the extra 750 for a Dalian they can leave to their kids.
 
#14 ·
My experience so far (just over a year, mine is from the 2nd batch)

I generally roast in 1kg lots although have on occasion gone to 1.25kg (with losses gives me 4 x250g bags, why 1.25? just because it made no difference to 1.2
:)
) with no discernable taste difference from same bean at 1kg or 1.25kg.

Only roasted Robusta once (1st roast) and then only for the throw away roast (and boy did it smoke the area out, never again)

Never gone lower than 850g (no malabars roasted yet) for the reasons above.

I tend to draw a lot more air as our voltage regularly tops 250, especially in the summer and can honestly say this roaster is far easier to control / understand (once you get the basics nailed) than the little gene it replaced. CA during roast usually around 3 with SD rising from 3 (closed 0-3min) at 3 minutes upwards and will close CA down if temp rising too fast such as just before 1C or after. Have on occasion turned the heat off after 1C but this is temp rise dependant

One day I'll get round to power controlling it but for the moment have enough control as is.

Maintenance so far has followed Dave's guide and bar one minor chaff dust smoulder which was dealt with very quickly has been a joy to use and tend to do 7-8 kilos at a time back to back in no more than 2 hours ( I am not your average consumer of coffee and roast share as well, was heading down a full time micro roasting route but had a job offer that was too good to turn down, so bubbling away in the background
:)
)

I do leave mine to warm up at least 30 minutes and ideally 40 to include at least 2 cycles of the heat element switching in / out, the element drawing around 2800w in use. At end of roasting will leave roaster door open, green stopper out plus SD fully open (CA closed when finished cooling beans) until I see a minimum of 65c on the bean probe.

I keep records with a manual roast log as well as by inputting temps manually into Artisan every 20 to 30 seconds and will get round to buying a data logger with USB output if can figure out how to take the data direct from the PID's rather than use the spare K type probe (or maybe as well as)

All in all, happy bunny so far and no doubt still room for improvement especially in lighter roasts.

Hope of help

John
 
#15 ·
DavecUK said:





It's a simple, but good commercial unit. I know there is the Bullet, but for £2500, unless space was an issue, or you like computer games, I can't imagine why someone wouldn't stump up the extra 750 for a Dalian they can leave to their kids.



ho ho. While your buying voltage meters, i'm happily playing back 200g sample roasts in my bullet. Each to their own
:)
 
#16 ·
I think some of us might be guilty of making the Amazon sound difficult. It isn't but does seem to require a degree of familiarisation and experiment. My purpose in starting this thread was to allow other users to share their experiences. There is little point in scoffing at us.

I followed DaveC's advice and increased the opening of the SD at an earlier time and it did produce a more acceptable first crack time in my latest (single) roast. I am still awaiting my power meter and want to put in better (less resistive) plumbing for the exhaust.

Details of that latest roast of BVdS

0 192(193) (SD at 0), 1 156(170),2 150(159) (SD at +2), 3 152(157), 4 156(160), 5 161(164), 6 166 (168) (SD at +3), 7 171(174), 8 176(180), 9 181 (186), 10 187(193)

1st crack at 9:20, heat off at 10:30 and beans dumped at 11:00.

Noticed a (very) small number of beans had minor scorch marks. Now waiting for the beans to be ready to start drinking.
 
#17 ·
NAJB said:
I think some of us might be guilty of making the Amazon sound difficult. It isn't but does seem to require a degree of familiarisation and experiment. My purpose in starting this thread was to allow other users to share their experiences. There is little point in scoffing at us.

I followed DaveC's advice and increased the opening of the SD at an earlier time and it did produce a more acceptable first crack time in my latest (single) roast. I am still awaiting my power meter and want to put in better (less resistive) plumbing for the exhaust.

Details of that latest roast of BVdS

0 192(193) (SD at 0), 1 156(170),2 150(159) (SD at +2), 3 152(157), 4 156(160), 5 161(164), 6 166 (168) (SD at +3), 7 171(174), 8 176(180), 9 181 (186), 10 187(193)

1st crack at 9:20, heat off at 10:30 and beans dumped at 11:00.

Noticed a (very) small number of beans had minor scorch marks. Now waiting for the beans to be ready to start drinking.
Slow the roast down a touch more you are rushing into 1st crack which forces it to come early (or earlier than it should) assuming you are roasting a full kg. try to add another minute to the 1st crack time and then a little more air without stalling to give a little more time between 1st and dumping the roast.
 
#18 ·
Thankyou again for your input. As I said that roast I posted was another experiment. I will use more air, but I do wonder whether I should look at the exhaust arrangements and get a smoother exhaust stack. I don't want to change too many variables at the same time, but if I can find my ideal first crack time/window I can always speed it up later.

This is fun, but it's a lot of coffee to get through. Perhaps I could persuade my wife to bake come coffee cake??????
 
#19 ·
Looking at @NAJB comments on improving the exhaust system on his roaster got me wondering what effect the exhaust pipe has on the air-flow. I roast in a garden shed and the roaster is sitting quite a distance from the shed door (due to the location of the power socket). Therefore I have added an extra 2m of exhaust ducting to vent the smoke out the door. This was the quickest and most cost-effective solution. However - I have no idea if the extra length is having an effect on the airflow. Any thoughts or insights?
 
#21 ·
RDC8 said:
Looking at @NAJB comments on improving the exhaust system on his roaster got me wondering what effect the exhaust pipe has on the air-flow. I roast in a garden shed and the roaster is sitting quite a distance from the shed door (due to the location of the power socket). Therefore I have added an extra 2m of exhaust ducting to vent the smoke out the door. This was the quickest and most cost-effective solution. However - I have no idea if the extra length is having an effect on the airflow. Any thoughts or insights?
If you used ductng the same diameter as the existing vent tube from the fan...then yeah an extra 2m is a lot. |If you use wider ducting e.g. 5inch (120mm), then you might be OK. just have the end facing downwards so you do get wind blowing into the tube. The fan on the Dalian is quite powerful, but longer ducting will change things slightly. I use 5 inch ducting personally.....but only about 1.5m
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
If we corrected all incorrect grammer on this forum there would be double the amount of posts - including my own!

I would loose patience very quickly :)
 
#24 ·
Stevebee said:
If we corrected all incorrect grammer on this forum there would be double the amount of posts - including my own!

I would loose patience very quickly :)
Hmmm....

If we corrected all incorrect grammar on this forum there would be double the amount of posts - including my own!

I would lose patience very quickly :)

Sorry, couldn't resist.
;)
 
#25 ·
neat roaster indeed!
 
#26 ·
DavecUK said:
Hmmm....

If we corrected all incorrect grammar on this forum there would be double the amount of posts - including my own!

I would lose patience very quickly :)

Sorry, couldn't resist.
;)
Was intended as my pet peev is the lose/loose one - especially prevalent on HB I notice
 
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