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lubricating expobar brewtus IV

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Could anyone give me an idiots guide to the lubrication of the cams on the Brewtus IV im pretty sure they need doing after a chem back flush but not 100% what I'm doing. Also what and where can I get the required lubricant.

thanks


Expobar brewtus IV, Mazzer Royal ti burrs, Mazzer s.j, Torr 58.4 ti flat goldfinger, Torr 58.4 flat walnut, 20g VST,

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Expobar Leva DB PID, Eureka Olympus 75E, Mazzer Super Jolly, Rhino Hand Grinder, Torr Trapez, On Balance Scales, VonShef Stainless Steel Double Wall French Press, VST 18, 20, IMS Shower Screen, V60, D'Ancap Cups/Saucers :coffee:

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Lube is Molycote 111. Careful if you buy it off ebay if it's not in a proper pack - some sellers are home dispensing from big tubs. Alternatively Bella Barista sell tiny pots of it that will last you years. Look for HT Silicon grease.

 

Instructions are in the Coffee Time wiki in the wiki section of the site. Written by DavecUK who as always has done a thorough idiot-proof guide. I'll see if I can find the link.

 

http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/e61-lubrication

Edited by hotmetal
Link added

Rocket R58Ceado E37SAeropressAerGrind • Puck Puck cold brew widget • VST 18g basket • Torr Goldfinger 58.5 convex black Ti/walnut tamper • Torr Goldfinger 58.5 flat sharp edge tamper • Big bag o' beans • Triumph Street Triple 675R

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Look on line for lubricating E 61 head.

Basics you require, broard bladed flat screwdriver to remove screw in end of lever. 22 and 26 mm spanners OR adjustable spanner. MOLYCOTE 111 grease ( look on line for availability)

 

Remove screw and washer +spring, remove lever. ( to protect chrome use electrical tape OR soft jaws for adjustable) . Hold the inner nut ( close to head) and undo outer nut, remove and remove spring. Unscrew inner nut and lift out complete with cam. Remove cam from barrel/ nut and clean and dry all components, examine for wear.Wipe / dry inside housing and examine valve stems for wear.Clean central recess, lightly lubricate also ends of valve stems. Lightly lubricate cam stem and lobes and install cam, (you may need to depress the lower valve stem slightly to reinsert the end of the cam shaft. Replace other components in reverse order.

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I've added the link to DavecUK's site that gives you full instructions. (See my previous post #3)

 

Tip - although Dave says in the video he did his while still warm, I found the big nut hard to undo while the machine was hot so I came back after it had cooled and it was easy. If you keep the portafilter in the group you can pull up on this to counter the torque you're applying with the spanner to avoid stressing the group/front panel (which might be quite light gauge steel on the Expobar).

 

Use the correct ring spanners to get a good fit (if you can find them in that size! ), or use plastic jaws adjustable. Good idea to put a piece of cardboard over the face of the machine if you want to be double-sure of not scratching it.


Rocket R58Ceado E37SAeropressAerGrind • Puck Puck cold brew widget • VST 18g basket • Torr Goldfinger 58.5 convex black Ti/walnut tamper • Torr Goldfinger 58.5 flat sharp edge tamper • Big bag o' beans • Triumph Street Triple 675R

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Thanks for the reply sure I'll manage it with the guides. I'm away at work at the minute but will report back

thanks again


Expobar brewtus IV, Mazzer Royal ti burrs, Mazzer s.j, Torr 58.4 ti flat goldfinger, Torr 58.4 flat walnut, 20g VST,

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Just as a late follow up on this I've finally got round to carrying out lubrication job was relatively easy following everyone's help on here and daves fool proof guide.

thanks to all who helped out


Expobar brewtus IV, Mazzer Royal ti burrs, Mazzer s.j, Torr 58.4 ti flat goldfinger, Torr 58.4 flat walnut, 20g VST,

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Would you add any additional notes, specifically when lubricating the cams in a Brewtus, to what is mentioned in the video mentioned by hotmetal in post #3?

 

Thanks.

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Think I need to do this


What's the point...it'll only change soon!

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Not really had a bit of a panic when returning the cam as its a little tricky to get in as on of the pins rides against it slightly but as the notes say if you temporarily refit the handle its a lot easier to wiggle in.

 

Would you add any additional notes, specifically when lubricating the cams in a Brewtus, to what is mentioned in the video mentioned by hotmetal in post #3?

 

Thanks.


Expobar brewtus IV, Mazzer Royal ti burrs, Mazzer s.j, Torr 58.4 ti flat goldfinger, Torr 58.4 flat walnut, 20g VST,

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Think I need to do this

 

i found it to be a must after the chem backflush could really feel the difference in the handle. There didn't seem to be any real wear on the cam pins on mine but believe it has been lubricated before. I'll deffo be carrying it out after every use of puly as the guide states.


Expobar brewtus IV, Mazzer Royal ti burrs, Mazzer s.j, Torr 58.4 ti flat goldfinger, Torr 58.4 flat walnut, 20g VST,

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This is a routine I have been doing for years since DaveC originally suggested it during every chemical backflush. Backflush, machine off to cool, remove assembly as advised, leave machine 3 hours or more to really cool so Molycote will stay there, apply to pins etc.

 

When replacing main nut into E61 it doesn't nedd herculean strength to tighten, also a wipe of vaseline doesn't hurt on the thread. When replacing the rod into the pins put the handle on the end and it will wiggle in.


ACS Vesuvius, Niche Zero, Dalian Amazon & assorted greens, Osmio Zero

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I think lubing after every chem backflush is OTT. I do mine every 3 months and that seems to be fine


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Expobar Leva DB PID, Eureka Olympus 75E, Mazzer Super Jolly, Rhino Hand Grinder, Torr Trapez, On Balance Scales, VonShef Stainless Steel Double Wall French Press, VST 18, 20, IMS Shower Screen, V60, D'Ancap Cups/Saucers :coffee:

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