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Super Jolly deconstruction


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Hi,

 

As some folk might have noticed last night I am in the middle of a SJ restoration project.

 

Most of what I have done has been gleaned from other web posts, ultimately I have merged knowledge form all of those into a single source...and confirmed that the approaches are viable...Just writing that made me realise that I should acknowledge those that went before me.

 

So here are the unwitting contributors:

http://www.fotchbook.com/faq/mazzer/index.html

http://www.wholelattecoffee.com/2012/12/restoring-a-used-and-abused-mazzer-super-jolly

http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/help-with-mazzer-super-jolly-disassembly-t18580-10.html

http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/mazzer-super-jolly-rebuild-t18257.html

 

And I made reference to this document to understand how it all hung together:

http://www.partsguru.com/user/JOLLY_COFFEE_GRINDER.pdf

 

Thanks to @Rhys for the project in the first instance and @jeebsy for getting me out of a hole.

 

So rather than post page after page, which will take hours and hours, I have a pre-prepped PDF, which I think all users should be able to open. I will attach it here. It contains narrative and photos.

 

PLEASE be critical, I would like this doc to be (ultimately) a reference for others attempting the same journey so am happy to address criticisms, answer questions etc. The photos are a subset of the ones I took. Many of the full set are repetitive and add no value, but if some one asks a question and I have an image that might help answer it, I will push it up here.

 

Original PDF download here

&

Updated PDF download here - warning - large file - 4mb

The second PDF incorporates the return journey and a contribution from Rhys dealing with the doser.

 

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by Syenitic
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Actually I found Syenitics pdf.  on my old PC.  Hope no one mins me posting it... Russ sj_restore.pdf

and here's a link to a useful set of exploded diagrams for all (?) the Mazzer grinders. https://www.atp-czesci.pl/czesci_wg_producentow/producenci/mlynki_producenci/MAZZER.pdf Russ  

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Looks good!

 

Here's some more before pics..

 

9D5F6275-0413-4DDB-B0B9-60A817BF41B0_zpsfibgho0c.jpg

Doser full of coffee balls (now that's what I call clumping, and they were hard!)

 

825C207F-FC04-4809-9447-F8BA24437113_zpsbuvhaocb.jpg

How to remove the internals. Don't grip the chute with long-nose pliers as mentioned elsewhere - it only ends up in you cracking the chute.

 

11B8FA91-8DCC-47E0-9276-C6044DD091E4_zpscyahxkg5.jpg

Parallel action pliers.

 

9EA5B917-EA76-4F8E-BBD3-64401CC05969_zpsqgwhfgy4.jpg

How I removed the adjustment collar, which was seized on.

 

1C3213BA-F01A-44F8-A65F-0A64DD487DAD_zpsp5i2vr4x.jpg

The state of the burrs, and threads.

 

2_zpsk0fkb0oa.jpg

What came out of the doser when I washed it all.. Coffee anyone? :yuk:

 

13B12937-C1B1-4D68-B1C0-8DC93851D4C7_zpsw8ekkdyl.jpg

When removing the doser window plastic, please be aware that the internal edges of the doser windows are sharp.

The doser window can be removed by tapping it out with a flat headed screwdriver positioned in the groove shown at 1 o'clock in the first pic.

Input: 'Terranovered’ Versalab M3  + Niche

Output: Slayer One Group + La Pavoni + V60 + AeroPress + Syphon + Bialetti Induction Moka Pot + Bialetti Mucka Express + jar of instant for visitors..

 

 

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Nice work! Thanks for producing the PDF, that's really useful.

 

Can't wait to see the next chapter... including the "how to heat it back up and get it all back together again" part ;-)

 

Stator in a plastic bag and in the freezer overnight may shrink it enough to drop into a room temp body - dunno - but possibly worth trying?

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Nice work! Thanks for producing the PDF, that's really useful.

 

Can't wait to see the next chapter... including the "how to heat it back up and get it all back together again" part ;-)

 

Stator in a plastic bag and in the freezer overnight may shrink it enough to drop into a room temp body - dunno - but possibly worth trying?

 

Might work, though depends on the amount of movement for the given temp. Steel and Ally could possible expand and contract by different amounts for the same temp applied. Might be easier to just heat up the casing?

Input: 'Terranovered’ Versalab M3  + Niche

Output: Slayer One Group + La Pavoni + V60 + AeroPress + Syphon + Bialetti Induction Moka Pot + Bialetti Mucka Express + jar of instant for visitors..

 

 

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With the effort that was involved in the removal, I'd suggest that the best plan is probably to do both- freeze the stator and heat the case.... as it MAY just drop in then.

 

Eager to see how it goes anyway!

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With the effort that was involved in the removal, I'd suggest that the best plan is probably to do both- freeze the stator and heat the case.... as it MAY just drop in then.

 

Eager to see how it goes anyway!

 

The effort to remove might have been reduced if I had thought to look in from the underside. The stator was wedged in because my efforts had moved it out of true vertical alignment.

 

I will try to reverse the process by applying heat to the case and cold to the stator as you suggested. I am presuming the new powder coat having been baked on will withstand the domestic ovens ferocity. I will check when I collect it.

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Looks good!

 

Here's some more before pics..

 

 

Thanks @Rhys, do you fancy adding some more words to your photos, explaining pitfalls, problems & solutions etc, when you have time, I'll then add them into the PDF, and re-issue it (with @Glenn's assistance again I expect)

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Yeas, I can do that. Might be easier to just re-do the post from above. I'll do it tomorrow evening.

Input: 'Terranovered’ Versalab M3  + Niche

Output: Slayer One Group + La Pavoni + V60 + AeroPress + Syphon + Bialetti Induction Moka Pot + Bialetti Mucka Express + jar of instant for visitors..

 

 

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It's in the first post near the bottom - look for the "PDF download here" hyperlink.

 

I've just clicked it and opened it on an iPhone with Tapatalk so it works fine.

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It's in the first post near the bottom - look for the "PDF download here" hyperlink.

 

I've just clicked it and opened it on an iPhone with Tapatalk so it works fine.

Well it works fine for you :-).

 

On Android I'm seeing this:

 

uploadfromtaptalk1439463950200.jpg

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So I got the grinder body back from the powder coater's this afternoon...Wow...inspired when I got it home I got Stator back in with almost no effort, the rotor into the lower bearing and both those into the lower bearing carrier.

 

Excitement took the better of me once again and I damaged the new upper bearing trying to fit it to the top of the rotor. Leeson from last week obviously not learned.

 

New order for bearings placed, and a meek look on my face....

 

We'll get there, I actually think that the stator was the potentially most difficult step.

 

I shall document the process with photos again and re-work the above PDF

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Loving this thread, well done Syenitic.

Bad luck with the bearings.....watching with interest. Good luck with round two!

What colour did you go with at the powder coaters?

Cheers

 

Russ

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Interesting, what's the fit like then if it went back in so easy? Hopefully no rattles when it's running.

@risky...due to the machining tolerances in the casting I don't think it is possible for the stator to introduce wobbles in the running. The base plate holding the rotor in place is butted up against the same ribs that hold the stator in place. So I think if the stator is seated (it is) and the rotor lower bearing assembly can be screwed in flat (it can) the rotor should be aligned in the upper bearing aperture correctly (provided I got the rotor and its bearing in perpendicular). This being the case, when the upper bearing is in place, the rotor can only ever be pushed through the upper bearing, which determines the alignment, which I reckon can only be pretty much correct.

 

To aid the insertion of the stator into the body Copperslip grease was added to the holding fins (Wish I photo'd these). Copperslip for those that are unsure is a high MP grease which in no way will ever come into contact with the grinders output.

 

hoping to prove this when the replacement bearings are with me.

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Loving this thread, well done Syenitic.

Bad luck with the bearings.....watching with interest. Good luck with round two!

What colour did you go with at the powder coaters?

Cheers

 

Russ

Bearings I was stupid...used a piece of softwood end grain on to knock the race into place....the softwood distorted and pushed into the bearing seals, compromising the entire assembly...new lesson learned I guess. Despite the waste, which I regret, it is no disaster and easily and quite cheaply replaced. But it has taught me to order extra's to cope with such situations. :)

 

The colour is not quite what I expected....but it is great, google this - c93c20 - was meant to be a metallic burnt orange....in today's sunlight it was a little brighter than I expected...but it does look good so far against the tiled background. The metallic finish is really fine and needs a close eye in good light to see it...subtle I guess. All in all a good result I think...Pictures will follow

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You are certainly to be commended on this work. At first read I feel that other than re-ordering some text and pics it has almost everything needed to take on the task. Add a little about the order of removal from the start including the doser maybe and it may open up the possibilities that lesser experienced dabblers in mechanical fiddling might consider this doable...... Which leads me to ask: In your personal opinion, who could do this? Do you feel this is only for those with a fair bit of experience of things mechanical and probably who already have all the tools? Do you think it is your experience that got you through or, given that there is support available here in forum, could a less mechanically minded member get this done?

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You are certainly to be commended on this work. At first read I feel that other than re-ordering some text and pics it has almost everything needed to take on the task. Add a little about the order of removal from the start including the doser maybe and it may open up the possibilities that lesser experienced dabblers in mechanical fiddling might consider this doable...... Which leads me to ask: In your personal opinion, who could do this? Do you feel this is only for those with a fair bit of experience of things mechanical and probably who already have all the tools? Do you think it is your experience that got you through or, given that there is support available here in forum, could a less mechanically minded member get this done?

 

I feel complimented.

 

All I had to do with the doser was remove it. @Rhys did the restoration/clean on that bit. If I needed to do that I am scratching...

 

I honestly think that all is needed (as I might have shown not to have) is a level of patience, a selection of common tools (though a neighbour with a better selection helps).

 

As I stated earlier, I am happy to receive criticism to make the documentation more logical and user friendly, I will make amendments as I understand them.

 

For general understanding, I am not an engineer, just like to take things apart to understand...there is nothing in this that needs you to be anything more than Mr DIY with a selection of tools and an understanding that if you don't have what you need it can easily be obtained or even made/manufactured

 

The biggest thing for me was breaking things apart and knowing what was safe for salvage. I think the only things t be discarded were the old bearings and the seal between doser and grinder body......ignore that seal and I reckon you'll face the issues that @coffeechap discovered with his Costa grinder

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I think the main issue is whether makes sense for the average user to go to these lengths unless something inside was broken.

 

A good point

 

The bearings in the one I have were worn on the upper end (fine on the lower)...to me it was worth it.

 

Still think the 'average user' might wish to have access to a list of how to's should they need to repair just one bit, or strip and repaint. I have seen some 'don't go there' advice which I think was unjustified, and advice at the other end that like wise might have led to disaster. Ultimately it is not a complicated job if you can be patient, know where to source replacements and have a normal set of household DIY tools. I will try to list all the tools needed in the final PDF.

 

I am happy to help anyone that thinks I might have knowledge to help. PM me if you have Q's. But open Q's are more helpful...both for readers and potential answerers

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