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Edited by coffeechap

AKA Toffee chips

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The photo that I posted of Patrick's wiring confuses things as he has left the wiring in place to convert the grinder back. Essentially the only cables that need to go through the terminal block are the live and neutral from the power cable to t2 and t1 on the Mazzer switch. A2 on the contactor then goes direct to the auber unit to terminal 7. 8 is bridged to 9. 9 also has Cable going back to 1 on contactor. 10 on auber has cable going to 2 on contactor.


AKA Toffee chips

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Colour edit to pic in previous post.

 

On the output from the timer:

 

The connections 7 and 8 are interchangeable. as long as one has the link to live connected and the other goes to the coil of the contactor.

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Ok I've had another butchers at this tonight.

 

My Major is wired up similarly to the Auber diagram with the absence of the 2 lower micro switches.

 

a134b87d87736931a59eaaddb33dd85a.jpg

794add50d3b334ef41866e917e30a4f5.jpg

 

Also on mine the feed from the Contactor A2 is the grey wire that goes into the bottom connector block 4th from the left.

 

4th from left on the top of the block is the wire to 2 on the contactor which according to Auber I should remove along with the loop wire.

 

As far as I can work out this where I need to wire one of the feeds from the Timer.

 

The other needs to go into the bottom block 4th from right (green wire that also needs to be disconnected that's connected to Switch A).

 

Sound about right?

 

Have just completed the timer mod using the information on this thread - very helpful.

I’ve taken out the micro switches to simplify it and it’s working well.

One question I do have if anyone can help. I had two red wires coming from the On switch at points marked A.

They went to the choc box and were linked to the micro switches. Having removed the micro switches I’m not sure

if I need these and not sure want they do. If anyone more technical than me (most people) could give me an idea. @coffeechap @Dylan @The Systemic Kid


Espresso : Vesuvius Steel Pipework, Londinium L1, Ponte Vecchio Lusso  Grinders : EK43 & Titus alignment tool, Compak E10, Mazzer Royal, Niche Zero Black, Macap MC7 Deli, OE Pharos, Hausgrind, Feldgrind, Feld 47

https://www.kaffeeculture.co.uk

 

 

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@Stevebee if they are going to the various micro switches which are now redundant, you can remove them. But are you referring to power lead into the contactor - if so, without power the contactor won't switch the motor on.


Londinium-R - EKS43 running SSP Silver Knight burrs

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@The Systemic Kid No, the two leads coming from the point marked A (there are 2 of them) on the on/off switch.

At the moment I’ve left them coming out of A but going nowhere (other end wrapped in electrical tape.)

Will remove them to tidy the job. The 16mm hole cutter and Dremel (same as you) worked a treat.

I’ve put button 1 and 2 on the side with the manual one at the front but on the Royal there’s plenty of space.


Espresso : Vesuvius Steel Pipework, Londinium L1, Ponte Vecchio Lusso  Grinders : EK43 & Titus alignment tool, Compak E10, Mazzer Royal, Niche Zero Black, Macap MC7 Deli, OE Pharos, Hausgrind, Feldgrind, Feld 47

https://www.kaffeeculture.co.uk

 

 

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Final steps will be the Octopus funnel mod, when it arrives from China, followed by a full disassembly for it to be sent for powder coating. Don’t trust my spray painting skills and the finish will look better. Just got to decide on the colour now.


Espresso : Vesuvius Steel Pipework, Londinium L1, Ponte Vecchio Lusso  Grinders : EK43 & Titus alignment tool, Compak E10, Mazzer Royal, Niche Zero Black, Macap MC7 Deli, OE Pharos, Hausgrind, Feldgrind, Feld 47

https://www.kaffeeculture.co.uk

 

 

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Hello,

I have installed the Auber timer along with the octopus funnel on my old SJ and just found that thread so decided to share pictures. Also added a homemade static screen, which is an absolute must for consistent timed dosing.

 

I like the original E models design idea so did it that way.

 

 

P.S. What dose to dose weight consistency do you achieve?

My targets are 9g for single and 18 for double and it is usually within +/- .3g when no changes in grind setting and hopper is not too empty.

 

4797eb76d01901310b05b02fbaf51a4f.jpg

 

b8d854dc99310ad8e7a441ad46833dfd.jpg

 

9caf4ccaad0391aa48c5e04f12ba7689.jpg

Edited by blazarov

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Ooo I lave that little lady you have


AKA Toffee chips

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/offtopic

She just turned 20, but it is in very good condition :-)

I bought it recently, but so far i dont like the taste in the cup.

Installed OPV but didnt really help with the taste. Funny the original brew tstat is 110C and the water is always boiling. I am PIDing it soon and hope lower and stable temp will improve the taste or i am replacing it..

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/offtopic

She just turned 20, but it is in very good condition :-)

I bought it recently, but so far i dont like the taste in the cup.

Installed OPV but didnt really help with the taste. Funny the original brew tstat is 110C and the water is always boiling. I am PIDing it soon and hope lower and stable temp will improve the taste or i am replacing it..

 

Have you tried a lever like a Pavoni?


keep calm and grind flat

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No, I have a friend with La Pavoni Pro and it is very nice.

However this is a cheap setup for my office and i tried to make it as straightforward and easy as possible so my workmates would use it too (and eventually get hooked on fresh espresso instead of pods or robot) and in that respect the Auber timer mod for the SJ was great success.

 

The Auber “mileage” counter shows 1200+ for less than a month so not bad usage :-)

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Hello,

I have installed the Auber timer along with the octopus funnel on my old SJ and just found that thread so decided to share pictures. Also added a homemade static screen, which is an absolute must for consistent timed dosing.

 

I like the original E models design idea so did it that way.

 

 

P.S. What dose to dose weight consistency do you achieve?

My targets are 9g for single and 18 for double and it is usually within +/- .3g when no changes in grind setting and hopper is not too empty.

 

4797eb76d01901310b05b02fbaf51a4f.jpg

 

b8d854dc99310ad8e7a441ad46833dfd.jpg

 

9caf4ccaad0391aa48c5e04f12ba7689.jpg

 

Looks Fantastic. What did you make the static screen out of?


Sage DB; Mazzer Major; VST 15g, 18g & 20g Baskets;TORR Trapez & Perger Tamper

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I cut the outer frame from tin jar cap and soldered single wire from UTP cable for the cross-sections.

Works pretty good

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Posted (edited)

Would someone mind looking over the images in my Royal and helping me work out that I need to connect?

There are a lot more cables than I thought there would be!

Switches are done on the timer, just need to work out where 8, 9 and 10 on the timer go.

 

1.jpg

 

2.jpg

 

3.jpg

 

Am I correct in thinking...

Timer 7 - goes to contactor A2? currently A2 is connected to a red wire going to what I assume is the hopper safety switch on the wiring block.

Timer 9 - goes to L1? Do I disconnect any cables from L1?

Timer 10 - goes to L2? Do I disconnect any cables from L2?

 

 

I can take some more images if that helps?

 

Thanks!

Edited by MSM

Work: Fracino Cherub (OPV mod), La Pavoni Europiccola (with added pressure gauge), Brazen Plus, V60, Aeropress, Mazzer Royal (titanium burrs), Compak K3 Touch, Gold finger 58.55 Sharp Edge, Reg Barber 58.35mm C-Ripple...

Home: Gaggia Classic (PID, and usual mods), Mazzer Super Jolly (and usual mods), Torr Goldfinger Convex 58.4mm, Torr 58.4mm Soft Convex Ebony XS "Vintage Brass"...

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You need really to supply a wiring diagram or find one by searching on google. Fairly certain they were posted over on home barista and maybe even on the auberins website?


Expobar DB Office Leva IV, La Pavoni Professional -- FOR SALE: MBK HEFT, Torr Goldfinger Titan Convex & 58.55 Flat -- Ceado E8, Lido E, Pharos VDD -- 2 and 5 cup Syphons; Vintage Nicro Metal Filter -- Gene Cafe CBR101 with Dimmer Mod and Bean Mass Probe

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Could just be me then, but I have not been able to find a  wiring diagram for the Royal. 😦

If anyone has one, could they please share it?


Work: Fracino Cherub (OPV mod), La Pavoni Europiccola (with added pressure gauge), Brazen Plus, V60, Aeropress, Mazzer Royal (titanium burrs), Compak K3 Touch, Gold finger 58.55 Sharp Edge, Reg Barber 58.35mm C-Ripple...

Home: Gaggia Classic (PID, and usual mods), Mazzer Super Jolly (and usual mods), Torr Goldfinger Convex 58.4mm, Torr 58.4mm Soft Convex Ebony XS "Vintage Brass"...

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I do not think there is any difference between this and the Major. @coffeechap might know better.

If you open it up and compare what you have with:

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Mazzer1.pdf

You could make sure.

Removing the old and unused safety switches then adding a connector block with a view to having as many single wire connections as possible to make sure the connections are good resulted in this:

 

MAZZER JSL72 A+B old colours SINGLE CONNS.png

 

The original drawing was for a USA model.

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