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Gaggia Classic- Electrics Issue


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If you are reasonably competent, you might want to look inside and see if there is anything obvious amiss. Might be a good idea to get in touch with gaggiamanualservice.com member but, to do so, you need to up your number of posts to be able to access the private message forum facility.

Norėčiau juodos kavos

 

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This is a common issue with some of the older Gaggia's - not normally the classic though but certainly the Baby and other variants

 

Usually a strip down and check for leaks will fix.

 

Search 'tripping electrics' or similar phrases here to see the root cause and fix suggestions

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As TSK said are you confident to look inside?, just two screws at rear on top and lift up top and release one cable clipped to top inside (EARTH) ALL THIS WHILE UNPLUGGED FROM SOCKET

If you do this look inside for any burn marks or discoloured cable connections, any of this information can then be relayed to Mark (gaggiamanualserve)

My own thought is that it "could" be the boiler element. Parts are readily available so in answer to your question it is not beyond repair.

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  • 3 years later...

I'm new to this forum and have really enjoyed some of the threads about diagnoses . I bought a Classic ("for parts", ) that trips the breaker as soon as the power switch is activated. it's date is 2011, . i replaced the thermal fuse although the old one appears OK (thought it would work and plunged ahead without care). with the thermal fuse removed the switch does nothing and does not trip the breakers . I'm getting a multimeter tomorrow in the US (120V) . even with both elements, solenoid pump, thermostats detached it exhibits same fault . bottom terminal on main steam (big) switch has some scorching . i labeled the main switch terminals and don't believe they were mis-wired by my hand.

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I'm new to this forum and have really enjoyed some of the threads about diagnoses . I bought a Classic ("for parts", ) that trips the breaker as soon as the power switch is activated. it's date is 2011, . i replaced the thermal fuse although the old one appears OK (thought it would work and plunged ahead without care). with the thermal fuse removed the switch does nothing and does not trip the breakers . I'm getting a multimeter tomorrow in the US (120V) . even with both elements, solenoid pump, thermostats detached it exhibits same fault . bottom terminal on main steam (big) switch has some scorching . i labeled the main switch terminals and don't believe they were mis-wired by my hand.
Sounds like you may have a short in the switch.
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Sounds like you may have a short in the switch.

 

The switches are areally basic and mechanical - so I'd doubt the switch is at fault, but it is possible that it's mis-wired. If you're in the US then is the Classic on an earthed power-lead (3 pin) or is it just a 2 pin with no earth? (Hopefully it's earthed!).

 

So - with the thermal fuse in situ and everything that you've stated (elements, solenoid, pump, stats) disconnected - and all of the connections properly taped/covered - it STILL trips the electrics when turned on?

 

If so - I'd try and work out whether it's tripping due to a leak to earth, or a short between L and N. Quick way to do this (if the machine is earthed) is to remove the earth wire from the power socket at the back of the machine (obviously with it all turned off and unplugged). With the wire removed, try turning the machine back on again - BUT AT NO TIME TOUCH THE METAL CASE! Personally, if I were doing this test I'd use a wooden stick / spoon to flick the power switch - just to make sure I was nowhere near it.... because if the fault is a leak to earth (and you've removed the earth) then the metal case will be live. If you can turn the machine on, and it doesn't trip, then I'd assume that it's an earth leak somewhere. If it turns on and trips again, then I'd assume that it's a L-N short somewhere.

 

(Only do the above if you are confident and know roughly what you're doing!).

You can usually find me and all of my Gaggia products at Shades of Coffee

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Thank You for your reply . It's the two pin lead with no earth , and i believe the factory for a lot of these US models didn't put the extra wire that would have connected from the lid to boiler with a spade connector. my research found this wire's absence is not a problem , still it's a guess . i will get my Multimeter today and I have not properly taped off with my quickie test but will test again after reading the above more carefully.

Edited by Billio
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It can't be an earth leak then... as it's not earthed. Therefore it must be a breaker tripping due to excess current - and hence probably a short from L to N somewhere. (You should be reasonably safe just disconnecting the connectors, as most if not all are plastic insulated anyway and if it's not earthed then there's little chance of it being a connector leaking to earth causing the problem).

 

I'd start by referencing this diagram - and looking at the connections to the switchbank. Check you have all the connections in the right place.

 

http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?action=ezportal;sa=page;p=42

 

If they are all in the correct place then start disconnecting the wires from the switchbank and see if it makes any difference. If it were me, I'd probably go in this order initally:

 

- Remove top (probably single blue) connection behind 0/1 switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and continue...

- Remove middle (probably double blue) connection behind 0/1 switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and continue...

- Remove top (probably double blue) connection behind steam switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and continue...

- Remove middle (probably single blue) connection behind brew switch. Try it, and if it still trips then stop and post on here. If it doesn't trip then replace it and, well - also post on here!

 

Let us know what happens...

You can usually find me and all of my Gaggia products at Shades of Coffee

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Thank you for your reply. I agree about the switch my prime suspect . I ordered a new switch , it should get here Friday . I don't know if i should just plug in the new switch right away , I hope to festina lente . is it easy to test the old switch with a Multimeter ?

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I am staring at the diagram , my main switch has 10 metal terminals , I can't figure out the switch diagram in order to verify, and the notation on the Gaggia Diagram, about the image of the Main Switch being reversed and the numbers reversed . my switch doesn't seem to correspond to the diagram,

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THanks, I'm going to have to study this until I can verify the wiring to the main switch, i haven't figured it out . i have red brown blue and gray wires and i will keep studying this until i can verify correct wiring Thank You !

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The diagram shows the switch as if it is transparent - and you're "looking through it" from the front. It's not easy to work out what goes where unless you grasp how it's drawn.

 

If you can post a photo of the rear of the switch with the wires connected then I may be able to spot something.

 

(Something like this one, which shows what the wires should be as standard) http://www.gaggiausersgroup.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=707.0;attach=1142;image

You can usually find me and all of my Gaggia products at Shades of Coffee

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Thank you for your reply. I agree about the switch my prime suspect . I ordered a new switch , it should get here Friday . I don't know if i should just plug in the new switch right away , I hope to festina lente . is it easy to test the old switch with a Multimeter ?

 

Whoa! The switches are really basic - and are simple rocker switches - but (certainly in the UK) definitely not cheap! I would have done a little more checking and diagnostics before plunging for a new switch. They typically switch the top connection to the middle one via sprung chunks of metal inside the switch. A multimeter should help buzz it out and see what the switch does. Steam is slightly more complicated than 0/1 and brew - but you should be able to see a difference when you flick the switches within the connections behind them.

You can usually find me and all of my Gaggia products at Shades of Coffee

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R0015352.jpgi know i should not have moved on the purchase of the switch , have some impulsivity . the top wire , when removed , does not trip the breaker when the main power switch is activated . I think the wiring agrees with the Diagram inasmuch as I could read it, relating to the main switch . Edited by Billio
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i know i should not have moved on the purchase of the switch , have some impulsivity . the top wire , when removed , does not trip the breaker when the main power switch is activated .
We're getting closer! That proves it's either the switch or is something connected to it.
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Thanks for all your help . I have found a combination that does not seem to trip breakers . If I detach the second terminal down on the Power switch , (brown wires Positive) then the main switch doesn't trip the breaker. . Thank You !~

Edited by Billio
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We're getting closer! That proves it's either the switch or is something connected to it.

 

 

I replaced the switch but still have the same result of tripping the breaker . I now have a multimeter but do not know what to test as it appears the fault is somewhere on the L side, because removing the second main power switch terminal results in no breaker tripping .

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I replaced the switch but still have the same result of tripping the breaker . I now have a multimeter but do not know what to test as it appears the fault is somewhere on the L side, because removing the second main power switch terminal results in no breaker tripping .
Have you checked the wiring to make sure none of the insulation is missing causing a short?
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