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My grinder has been taking longer and longer to produce enough ground coffee for a shot. It still sounds the same speed as its always been but the grinds have been coming out of the chute more slowly. Tonight it got stuck.

 

I wound the setting wheel all the way out to its most open setting and the problem cleared. But now I get a noise as if something is catching. I started to wind back in but the noise is still there.

 

Before I try with grinding beans again, are there any suggestions?


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Have you turned thr grinder upside down, given it a good shake, used a paint brush or similar to probe for foreign objects, and then used a small vacuum attachment to ensure no grounds remain?


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Shake and brush done. I will look into the vacuum idea - cheers.


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I tried the vacuum and even a can of compressed air. It still makes the same noise :(


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Despite the clicking I loaded up with some beans and ground a very coarse amount. I tried again and the grinder got stuck. Eventually I managed to clear the blockage but the clicking remains.

 

Has anybody managed to take the MC2 apart?

I believe that the burrs are replaceable so surely there is a technique (or instructions?) for doing so that might give me a chance of finding the source of the clicking?

 

Very, very frustrated now and my confidence in this machine is rapidly ebbing.:mad:


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The burrs can be removed fairly easily (and replaced if necessary)

 

Some foreign objects can end up in roasted beans and can therefore find their way into your grinder.

 

I'd be inclined to take the case off and remove the burrs, brush and replace.

 

There are very few instructions on the net for the MC2 (hence my post on how to unpack and set it up)

 

Where are you based?


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I am based near Leeds.

 

I was thinking about removing the wormscrew first and would the outer burrs unscrew?

 

There is a nut and washer on the central burr which I could tackle too but that might just turn the motor around!

 

I just hope there are no little springs/washers/gromits that can fly off with no obvious way to put them back :eek:

 

Happy Donkey have gone quiet so it looks like my help from that quarter has dried up.


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I have an MC2 and recently pulled it out after my newer grinder breaking down. You can pop the top bit off the grinder (The black plastic part) and unscrew the worm-drive mounting. Doing this makes it very easy to get access to the top burr plate and unscrew it until it comes away. After that use a stiff bristled toothbrush or small paintbrush to remove all the ground coffee etc and clean the housing out entirely.

 

Assembly is the opposite of dismantling. As a rule of thumb I tighten until the burrs meet (the lower burr moves with the upper) and then loosen off about 1/8th of a full turn.

 

Point to note The wormdrive, while being annoyingly slow to adjust needs to be in place for the grinder to remain dialed at any setting.

 

While on the subject, an easy hack to make adjustments quicker is a set of locking pliers (welders pliers) either around the knob or straight on the bar. Which makes the whole process a LOT quicker, if slightly less elegant.


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I spoke with Stuart at Happy Donkey and he has suggested I post it back since I've tried most things. He will then send it back to Iberital for repair/replace.

 

It does take ages - I will use your pliers tip when it comes back.


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I'M A FOOL AND EVERYTHING BELOW IS WRONG WRONG WRONG! i WAS THINKING OF A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT GRINDER. STUPID THING IS I ACTUALLY OWN THE INNOVA VERSION OF THIS GRINDER OF WHICH I AM LOOKING AT RIGHT NOW! - PLEASE STOP ME WHEN I TALK RUBBISH IN FUTURE! DOH!!! (However, if you wanted to know about an iberital/cunill commercial grinder then the information below is quite correct!)

 

just needs a strip down. From what you have said it sounds like the grind is set to course (after you wound it back) so the noise is bean fragments. Also could be that one if the screws has come loose so the blde is loose on its mount.

 

Hold the button down that holds the step ring and unscrew the ring. This will leave you with the plastic ring and an cast alu mount for the top blade. Use a wire brush and clean this blade. Remove it and clean the mount, put it back. Next remove the lower blade. To do this safely unplug from the mains. To stop the motor turning while you unscrew place a large flat blade driver next to one of the fins. Clean it all and put it all back together.

 

Next set the grind to the right courseness. Dose a little onto your hand and rub the grouds with your figer. The grouds should be uniform. If not you need new blades. These shouldnt cost you anymore than £15-20. Makesure you get the right blades as some are right handed & some are left. Don't forget, this grinder is made by Cunill and re-badged iberital so you can get blades from anyone. If your having trouble sourcing new blades leave your number and i'll get a supplier to ring you ASAP.

 

Lee

resident engineer :)

Edited by LeeWardle
I'm a fool.

Coffee consultant, barista trainer & technician based in North Devon!

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Thanks for the reply Lee. It has already been dispatched back to Happy Donkey.

 

At least when I get it back I will know a bit more about my machine.

 

Would your suggestion invalidate the warranty?


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No not at all, it's something that you would do on a regular basis. In our coffee house I strip and clean our 3 Mazzers one a week. It's all intended to come apart and go back together by the user. If you'd like a diagram I'll post it here. Lee


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That would be great Lee.


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I'm a fool.:read::eek: It's official. MC2. I was thinking of a completely different grinder. Your's is the one with the conical burrs and the grinder adjust wheel on the right hand side. Doh!

 

In that case.......ignore everything I said! Instead........Just use a small flat head driver and pop the plastic top off. This will leave you with the burrs. YOu should be able to see pretty well then if there is an obstruction.

 

Otherwise, If I remember rightly there is a small square tappered brass nut. You'll need to remove this in order to take off the upper burr.

 

Lee

P.S. Please all let me know if I start talking complete rubbish again! I won't be offended I promise!!!!

Edited by LeeWardle
I'm a fool.

Coffee consultant, barista trainer & technician based in North Devon!

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:D

 

It was well intentioned.


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I'm glad you reminded me.

 

Happy Donkey contacted me last week to say that my grinder sounded pretty bad so they sent it off to Iberital. But instead of waiting for it to come back they have sent me a new one. I had it running at the weekend and no clicks - just grinding.:)


Still learning on... Gaggia TS, Cunill Tauro, PTM Tamper, Motta Tamping Stand and Knock Box, Gaggia Milk Jug and fresh beans!

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Thats great service from Happy Donkey :)


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I am pretty pleased.

 

A quick question. I am currently running the Has Bean Espresso Blend through my grinder and it is taking ages to deliver 14g. I experienced the same with their Sulawesi blend. I have not encountered the same significant delays (or repeat operations) with other beans. Has anyone else encountered this with the MC2 or any other grinder?


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Er, it will grind slower the finer the grind. What extraction time are you getting? Also I suppose it could be a little slow if it's a reAlly oily bean? With it having new blades it should be grinding nice and quick.

 

It would bet it's the grind that's too fine though.......


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The grind is fine for my machine, although I am thinking of making it slightly finer since the shot is flowing a little too quickly.

 

Perhaps it is the oil slowing things down. My test beans to help me set up the grinder were ground faily quickly - two actions for a double shot. The two blends are taking up to 7 actions for a double.


Still learning on... Gaggia TS, Cunill Tauro, PTM Tamper, Motta Tamping Stand and Knock Box, Gaggia Milk Jug and fresh beans!

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How old where the test beans?

 

I would't worry too much mate if I'm honest. As long as the grind is a good quality and the espresso is good it'll be fine. I would check to see how hot the grinds are right after grinding. If they're hot it usually means that the blades are blunt so rather than cutting the bean it's grinding them and creating friction.

 

COuld it be possible that they gave you a re-con back?

 

Lee


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The test beans are about a month old.

 

The previous MC2 behaved the same way with these beans. Unless the new one is my repaired old one?

 

The coffee is fine so its probably not worth being concerned. I will check the temperature when I next grind - I'm away at the moment.


Still learning on... Gaggia TS, Cunill Tauro, PTM Tamper, Motta Tamping Stand and Knock Box, Gaggia Milk Jug and fresh beans!

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Hmmm - You may fin that a stale bean will grind a little quicker.......If all seems fine then no problem. We had a grinder at work (Mazzer Superjolly Timer) that the motor brushes were knackered. IT WAS SO SLOW! And the ground goffee was red hot! No ideal. So as long as its not like that?!?! :)


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