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Found 11 results

  1. Hi Folks Can anyone explain to me how the wiring in this diagram actually works. I understand the connections at the element part can be wired with different options for 3 phase or single,but there are 5 wires out the for the connection to the main supply. Black , Brown and grey for the phases,blue for the neutral and an earth. If it was to be wired single phase,what would be the arrangement to a 30amp switch? ( i Have no intention of doing this, I'm just trying to understand the diagram )
  2. I wonder if anyone can help. I have bought a new light for the kitchen and will be installing this myself. It is protection class two and states : for lamps with this symbol no protective conductor necessary for safe operation. I have installed lights in the past but cant remember what to do, although im sure they had provision for the earth wire. This is a LED light that is replacing a fluorescent light The problem is I dont know what to do with the green\earth wire. Three wires come from the ceiling but only two go into the new light, the live\brown and neutral\ blue What do i do with the green\earth wire? do i trim the exposed wire off the end and tape over it? do I connect it to the bracket that screws onto the ceiling? What should I do with it ?
  3. Hi, So I reckon I could probably figure out the wiring, but some help would be nice. I am stuck completely by the earth cable, it looks like it is supposed to attach onto the clamp that holds down the switch, but I can't see how? Thanks
  4. Hi everyone, A couple of weeks ago I had a mishap with my Mecoffee Pid, which sadly resulted in the melting of what I believe to be the switching transistor (though I might be totally wrong, see pics attached). I've tried contacting Mecoffee, to no avail. My only remaining options are either to go for another PID with a better heatsink on the chips, or try a cheaper solution, which would simply mean replacing the melted chip and crossing my fingers that it would pop back to life.... However, since the chip is kinda FUBAR, I can't read the serial number, and there are hardly any high-res pics of the board online from which I could get the model of the wayward chip. Has this happened to anyone before? Does anyone have any thoughts on this, or could someone perhaps post a high-res pic of the board or chip? Huge thanks, Nitay
  5. I'm converting my new Mazzer Major to doserless. I found a diagram from a thread on the Kony here: https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/mazzer-kony-removing-doser-microswitch-instructions-t6208.html This shows how to add a jumper when removing the microswitch part of the doser, to replace the existing wiring. This leaves the second twin cable. What do you do with that one?
  6. Does Anyone know where i might pick up a wiring diagram for the new classic ri9403? Ronnie
  7. Hey guys, so we've made the leap and got the legal proceedings rolling to take our lease. The question now is wiring. We're taking over an old hair dressers which has two showers wired up, these are on 45 amp circuits. Can I use the wiring from these for my espresso machine or would I have to replace the breaker with a 20amp one? Also can I use a domestic 25amp flex outlet to connect it? Getting hold of the rules as to what an electrician needs to do and what I'm allowed to do seems tricky, where's the best place to get the low down? Cheers guys Paul
  8. Not any sort of complaint, just a bit of a heads up and a question (or two). Some of you may have noted that I partially stripped and cleaned my L1 mk1. A couple of things came to light when testing afterwards 1. The termination of the wire to the trip in series with the element is not crimped tight. I saw a baby arc and on closer inspection noticed that the clear cover over the spade connector is burnt (melted). No big deal I have these and the crimping tool but maybe you other owners out there should check yours. 2. I noticed that one of the small copper pipes on the boiler projects beyond the line of the frame so I guess has been "resting" against the side panel. This was found whilst searching for reasons that my machine seems louder than others with the pump running. Questions: can I reform said copper pipe slightly and if so any preferred method? or Can/should I get/make up a new pipe? I bought this all ready to be plumbed in..... What is the correct orientation of the pump as from the factory (wiring connections facing which way)?
  9. I bought a Cremina 2002 from this forum a couple of years ago, and have been enjoying it very much since then. I use it for one espresso daily, sometimes a bit more. In 2 years, I've had to replace some wiring (which was dodgy when I bought it), and the power switch (because the light stopped working). I also replaced the pressure sensor, which was dodgy. Other than that, I've taken the shower screen out every couple of months and cleaned and relubed the insides of the group head. Today, for the first time in ages, I had to do some maintenance. The group head gasket had cracked, so I had to replace it. When I look back on that list of maintenance, it actually seems like quite a lot, and I'm not very skilled with my hands. I find myself wondering if there's anything out there that needs even less maintenance. There are other reasons to love the Cremina (small footprint, manual lever makes me feel connected), but perhaps there's something else I should consider. Any thoughts?
  10. There is plenty of room inside you SJ for an Auber timer should you want to fit one in a permanent way. Below is a wiring guide for the Mazzer SJ Timer model after the switch is removed.
  11. I originally posted this problem in the Gaggia section and NJD1977 has done a sterling job in trying to help me and has had the patience of a saint because let's be fair he has been dealing with a prize pillock...Me! But we've come to a dead end. Nothing we've tried seems to work and so I thought I'd throw it out there to all and sundry in the hope there will be someone who can get me past the finishing post. I won't go into detail but suffice to say after blowing up my old PID I bought another and two new relays and after connecting them up, cannot get the damn thing to turn on the heating elements of the boiler. There is power to the PID because it lights up and I have been able to set the settings but using my newly acquired trusty digital multimeter (which I find works best if you take the plastic probe covers off...don't ask!) there seems to be no current between PID terminals 6 & 7. So below are pictures of my wiring diagram PID settings and PID instructions wiring guide. Then only difference is, I have two relays (SSR 40 AA & SSR 40 DA). I copied the PID settings from the old original PID and that worked fine before I blew it up. The only thing I will say is that the bloke paid by the previous owner who fitted the original PID did not have two normal relays. He fitted a normal SSR 40 DA but instead of the SSR AA he made up some Frankenstein plug thingy with a home made circuit board inside which is where the rogue wire came from that originally got disconnected and I couldn't fathom out where it went. So it seemed sensible to replace the home-made with professional made relay. I've included the drawing I did of the old electrical set up before trying to replace it. So you can see what I mean. I've been at it now on and off for weeks and I'm as frustrated as a bloke who has just taken a handful of Viagra, and turned up at a brothel with a wad of cash and found the workers are on strike. New schematic PID Settings PID Instructions schematic Original drawing of wiring from bodge job.
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