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Showing results for tags 'solution'.
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Hi, First post here and first Gaggia machine. Loving the machine so far even though it did highlight that I need a new grinder, the Bodum Bistro just wasn't good enough even with the 0.8mm offset top burr holder - ROK manual grinder does the job though. Anyway, I notice a lot of folk are sticking card in to the power switch to hold it in keeping the machine from automatically turning off after 9 minutes or so. This isn't great, if the switch has backed off a bit there's a chance of a poor contact which could mean high resistance meaning lots of heat and or fire. My solution, which you can do two ways: 1. Swap the power switch with the extraction/pump switch. 2. Buy an extraction/pump switch (approx £13?) and change it over with the power switch. The only problem with the first option is that you have to hold in the button for your entire pull/extraction... But I actually prefer this option, and, it saves me another £13. The quirk with swapping or exchanging the switch is: 1. One press (switch in IN position) will turn the machine on and it'll stay on, effectively disabling automatic timeout. 2. Another press (switch now in OUT position) will keep the machine on with the 9 minute automatic timeout enabled (operates like normal); unless, the 9 minute timeout has lapsed from 1st switching on, if this is the case the machine will power off. If within 9 minutes of 1st switching on,these two apply: 3. 3rd press (switch in IN position) operates same as first press. 4. 4th press (switch in OUT position) will turn machine off. Hope that helps. Gives you both options of having the 9 min timer enabled or disabled. Simplified: 2015 Operation - Press button twice. (Timer enabled, auto off) Pre 2015 Operation - Press button once and leave on for 9+ minutes. (2nd press turns off machine) P.s. The switch covers do come off and can be swapped over so they identify the switch function normally. P.p.s. Both types of switches are rated for the same voltage & current. Cheers, Kev
I've recently been doing some major renovation on my 10 year old original model Duetto, and I ran into a very frustrating issue where the flow to the group was perfectly normal, but I was only getting about 80 ml/min into the steam boiler when it needed to fill. I spent a while checking flow at various fittings, disassembling the solenoid valve and removing the armature to see it was impeding flow (it wasn't), even swapping in a new pump. I couldn't figure out how the group was getting normal flow until I unscrewed the fitting indicated in the photo which I had previous avoided because I was concerned about damaging the pipe. Inside there is a little steel wool filter with a tiny amount of debris which was almost completely obstructing the flow. To clean it out, I removed the solenoid armature (the moving part inside) and hooked up the fitting backwards with some flexible rubber hose and used the boiler fill call on the pump to backflush the filter. It's now working perfectly and I just wanted to post my experience in case anyone else comes across this problem in the future. Another tip I have found useful is to mark the orientation of the two sides of the fitting for the long copper pipes so you don't need to play around with the alignment to get everything back together. This is especially frustrating with the hot water tap pipe since you need to remove a ton of fittings and several electrical connectors and pull the whole steam boiler out just to adjust it.
A lot of the time, there seems to be many people that weigh in with the opinion "ohhh no, I wouldn't use that to descale an espresso machine". And, basically, I wondered why...? Whilst I was descaling a machine after a full strip down I used very strong citric (Dezcal) solutions, 4x the recommended dosage at one point. My reasoning was that the regular recipe was for day to day descaling, and I was getting rid of heavy scale. The parts that I descaled in this solution suffered zero adverse effects. I also immersed a group head completely in a similar solution, which did not damage the chrome (although it was to have the chrome removed anyway). At various times I have heard that phos descaled is too aggressive (although recommended by people on here who restore machines for a living) that you shouldn't use vinegar (I can understand the taste implications there), that you should be extra careful with an aluminium boiler.... Does any of it have any reasoning behind it or is it just peoples guess work?