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Found 11 results

  1. I didn't take a before picture (Doh!) but really pleased with the results of the sand blasting and powder coating on the Silvia chassis. Looks better than new. All the rust removed and a really solid powder coating to protect it into the future.
  2. Can anyone recommend where I can send my old Gaggia Classic for a good service/overhaul or rebuild please? Perhaps to include fitting PID and Rancilio wand. Cheers
  3. I don't (or at least didn't) know much about espresso machines, but have been happily using a Gaggia classic for about 5 years until I saw a Rocket Giotto and loved how it looked. But I couldn't justify the cost for a cappuccino or two a day just because it looked nice. A day later, I spotted a faulty ECM Giotto on eBay, all I knew was that it tripped the power when you turn it on. 5 minutes of research told me it was a predecessor to the Rocket Giotto, and so, knowing nothing about how a coffee machine works, I snapped it up for £150 and crossed my fingers that it would be an easy fix instead of an expensive paperweight. After opening it up my first surprise was that it was a plumbed in model, which I didn't know existed! Setting about the repairs, the heater which was my primary suspicion checked out ok for resistance so I looked at the Giemme control unit. A ribbon cable inside was snapped off and a capacitor had also lost a leg so I fixed that but still the issue persisted. It turned out the heating element was shorting to earth, but only when under power. The next job was to figure out why the heater had blown, so I put a light bulb on the heater circuit and it showed the control unit was powering up the heater but not turning on the pump to fill the tank with water, hence frying the element. As luck would have it I found a replacement Giemme control unit for £40 and a heating element from Bella Barista for about the same. With these both in things were better, but now I had water pressure I got a number of leaks from various places (someone had already attempted to fix it previously it seems). I cleaned up all the compression fittings and used gas PTFE on the threaded ones and got everything water tight. The next issue was no water flowing from the group, for this I looked at the solenoid valve that splits the water flow between the tank and the heat exchanger - it was seized up so I soaked it in descaler until I could manually activate it with a magnet then checked it worked with the electronic coil attached. Now I had water flow, but it all came out the OPV instead of the group, so that got a full dismantle and clean out, but it didn't fix the issue and blew a plastic water pipe open as I wound the OPV all the way in and created too much pressure. £2 of pipe later and I removed and dismantled the E61 group for a thorough clean. It turned out that there is a single pin hole in one of the top fittings that was scaled up and blocking all flow. I also spotted the group head gasket was still the original one and hard as rock so that got replaced too for a couple of quid from bella barista again. Now I had heat and water flow so I brought the unit up to temperature and pressure to see what happened. The boiler pressure gauge didn't move, but there was definitely pressure in the unit. The gauge is a bit daft as it is a long thin pipe soldered in to the gauge. I figured it was blocked and tried various ways to inject descaler down the tube to no avail. I was heating it up to desolder the pipe from the gauge and heard a few popping noises - so thought i'd give it one last test before removing it all and it worked! The heat must have cracked open the scale enough to allow some air flow. This meant I could test the pressure - at about 0.8 bar the pressure release valve was opening before the pressure switch would activate, hence the tank never got to full pressure. Cleaning the pressure valve didn't work so I used some washers to add back in some spring tension that had been lost over the years. And finally, after fixing far more than expected, but learning a lot... It works! Total cost of about £250 (plus some time!) which I am pretty happy with. I still have a few jobs to do: - I need a find or make drip tray - Pressure gauge seems to work OK but doesn't reset to zero - I might have to desolder the pipe for a proper descale. - Need to fit a new boiler safety valve at some point - it works great from a water bottle or Brita filter (better than having a tank I think) but I need to loop the OPV back there instead of the drip tray as it fills up quickly - Give it a proper descale up it is up and running - Relearn milk frothing. I had it great on the Gaggia but struggle with the 2 hole tip on this, it heats it up much quicker! - Somehow test the group water temperature to set the boiler level sensor up properly I hope this post might be of use if anyone else has a faulty one o is thinking of buying one. Let me know if you have any questions!
  4. So, I'm flying to Karachi, Pakistan tomorrow to sort out 8 Marzocco linea 2 groups - Some quite new (PID), some working "ok", some not. One ransacked for spares (so a rebuild), and one or two to convert to PID. Should be fun...and an interesting challenge! I'm going to try to post updates on twitter: @spressotech Wish me luck! All that to do in 5 days.....
  5. Interesting project? https://www.gumtree.com/p/restaurant-catering-equipment/vintage-gaggia-coffee-machine-for-sale-/1174494193
  6. I bought a used (1980's) Gaggia E90 as I have always wanted a nice Gaggia. I bought it from a man who said it was working perfectly but he could not test it. I wasn't born yesterday so bought it on the assumption I would need to do some work to it....... What I didn't realise was how bad it was. It was basically knackered and needed totally stripping and re-doing. I may need a hand with some stuff so thought I would document it here. Peter from Espresso Underground has sourced all the parts for me. Peter is amazingly helpful and has helped me so loads. I have taken photos and he has helped me identify parts and also sourced some hard to get bits for me. Absolute legend. Get your stuff from Peter ! I stripped the machine and had many problems, the chassis was rusting, the boiler was FULL of limescale and 4.no of the bolts sheered off when I took it apart. Nightmare. 3 of the valves were ceased and there was some other bits I have probably forgotten. Oh yes - the solenoid was broken too. Anyway, here it is getting put back together.....early stages..... Chassis repainted black, panels red to match my grinder. Ill update when finished. Project is on hold till I can source an obscure group head gasket for this model.
  7. So, I've picked up a Faema Due for an absolute song - the usual cafe closing down story. It came with 2 double basket PFs and a single. So far I've: taken the sides and top off so I could take lots of photos (here) wired it to a 32A switch plumbed in mains water and waste It fires up, seems to be getting up to pressure, and is already making much better espresso than my old Delonghi dual-thermostat jobby. The steam wand is a bit spluttery, but I'm working on it. I've sourced and ordered: new shower screens new seals a blind basket for backflushing some cleaning solution a bottomless PF because why not a cleaning brush Having found it for a bargain, I'm really keen not to accidentally kill it, and still a bit suspicious that there could be something wrong with it. Is there anything obvious I've missed? What should I do next? Specific questions: How often should I flush the heads with water? (my old Delonghi recommended a descale every 200 cups) How often with solution? What are visible signs of gunk in the boiler? If there is gunk in the boiler, how should I proceed? Anyone else with an "automatic" machine - how have you set up your presets? EDIT: Almost forgot, it appears to be missing a switch/light that has something to do with the cup tray. That tray gets good and hot just from the boiler, so what's the switch/light for? Thanks in advance for any tips or advice! PS: Yes, that's a Mazzer Super Jolly in the photos. Again, it seems to be working fine. I'll get to it at some point.
  8. Evening all. I've recently won a Fiorenzato grinder on eBay that'll be winging its way over to me soon: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302048036813?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm fairly sure it is, but can someone confirm I have actually bought a T80? The plan is to refurbish as necessary, replace the hopper with something smaller and remove the doser. I have a 3D printer at home so will probably try make most bits entirely custom. I'm expecting to have to do the burrs and have read that Mazzer SJ burrs would also fit - can anyone confirm and recommend if I should go down this route, or stick with a set of OE Fiorenzato burrs? Once it's here I'll be on with the strip down, modification & rebuild images! Cheers, Ben
  9. Hi guys Just setting up this thread to track my rebuild of a QE two lever that I found abandoned in a guys cellar,in a state of disrepair and desperate need of either scrapping or a heck of alot of descale and 600grit!! Photos to follow
  10. Got a great price for an Elektra MXAC on Gumtree, so just couldn't resist. Then I got it. I can only imagine that the coffee shop it came from was closed by environmental health. The amount of compressed old coffee clinging to every surface was shocking. Plan is to strip it down, clean or replace as needed. Will mod to support single dosing and stepless (it is a stepped version) and come up with some sort of a hopper. Haven't taken too many pics but here are a few. Here you can see the amount of coffee under the upper burr carrier. There are three v shaped channels which you can't see as the are filled with compressed coffee. I had already hoovered the lower burr and carrier clean. The burrs are pretty worn down and will need to be replaced. I think they are about £23. You can also see that only 2 of the three motor mounting bolts are there. Cut the packing strap off which was holding the cover onto the switch for the auto mechanism. Filled with coffee. More work for the Dyson. So switch case is clear of coffee and I can see the bolts attaching it to the grinder now. Switch off. Will need to get a socket set, a security screw driver and torx driver for all the different screws and bolts that have been used to keep this together so far.
  11. Hi guys! I'm currently restoring an ancient La Pavoni Professional, worse condition than I have ever seen on here, without contest. I already took everything apart to see what needs replacing, de-corroding , descaling and cleaning, but now I hit a dead end with the boiler nut. The bloody thing doesn't want to come off. I've started using a lever with the factory tool, didn't work. Then I saw that OE used a hammer in their rebuild, so I got a hammer. Didn't budge. The brass is already a little chipped from the hammering, even though I put wood between the hammer and brass, so I'm afraid to keep hammering. Does anyone here have experience with this kind of problem, or any recommendations of what tools to use, or how to loosen the nut? Thanks so much. Ps.: In case "boiler nut" is the wrong word for it, I didn't know what to call it so I googled it, and this is what I mean: http://www.coffeemaker-spareparts.com/La-Pavoni-Spareparts/La-Pavoni-Boiler-Bodyparts/La-Pavoni-boiler-nut-brass::4042.html
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