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Found 53 results

  1. Hi, So I should have a Gaggia classic in the next week or so (Hopefully less) and I have been looking at the various mods that can be done to the machine to make it run like a more expensive machine. I have seen mentions of countless mods and was wondering if anyone had links to threads on them or if there is actually nothing documented for them. I don't plan on doing these mods straight away I want to use the machine as it is to see how far I can get with it and then see what needs improving. I will list a few I have seen mentioned so far and see if anyone has any link OPV Mod http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3859-Adjusting-the-OPV-(over-Pressure-Valve)-Gaggia-Classic PID Obviously MrShades for this http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?31342-MrShades-Gaggia-Classic-PID-Kit-(1-32DIN)-Complete-PID-kit-with-full-guide-%A394 Dimmer pressure profiling (I believe this is for pre-infusing)https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?20575-Gaggia-Dimmer-Switch-low-pressure-pour Automatic shot timer https://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=21171 Brass plate for the boiler to increase its thermal mass to help with temp dropping from cold water being added. http://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/Mobile/MobileModels.aspx?ModelID=1976 Water preheat, or using the OPV to put water back into the tank and warm it up. Warming coil around the boiler To finish this off i have searched however there are so many posts just saying I have done x,y,z mod and its great but no explanation how and I did not want to resurrect a load of old threads instead I thought I would start a brand new one and hopefully have all the information and links in the same place. Thanks in advance!
  2. I've finally completed the install of the REX C-100 PID on my Gaggia Classic 2019. The OPV mod made my shots drinkable, this PID mod made my shots enjoyable. I must say I've noticed huge improvement in the cup. Coffee taste is much more balanced and I have more control over it. I was not able to find proper PID settings online. I've done some experimentation and found settings that would allow for aggressive overshoot upon temperature drop, so the boiler would act a bit like a heat exchanger during brewing. More pictures and PID settings: https://yirga.pl/gaggia-classic-2019-pid-rex-c100
  3. I got my hands on a Guatemala and got a bit carried away modifying it. So far I have -cut the body down in size (sits around 10cm shorter now) -stripped down and polished the clear acrylic top section of the body -painted it matt black (of course!) -replaced the burrs with SSP Red Speed coated -added speed control with a VFD To finish it off I plan to add a more detailed dial face and make a hopper with integrated puffer (to clear beans from below auger) and lens hood style bopper. I do not recommend reverting painted clear acrylic to clear acrylic. What a ball ache! It started with a half hearted ‘why would they use clear acrylic for this component?.. Wouldn’t it be cool if..’ Then before I knew it I had invested so much time into it that I had to see it through. The VFD was quite an interesting one. I was aware that probably the biggest weakness of the grinder was the burr speed. Initial research on speed controlling a capacitor start single phase motor wasn’t promising. Then eBay sent me a gift - a VFD with programmable boost start function BNIB. A different start capacitor relay and lots of wiring and programming later, success!! It grinds quite happily at 20Hz, which translates to just below 1200rpm down from just below 3000rpm at 50Hz.
  4. Right then Lid off then whip the switches out the front to give you some room. Easy two plastic clips held in by a little metal bracket behind on inside of wall. Then a T10 torque driver and undo the little silver plate. A longer T10 which has a magnetic end helps here. Take the plastic end off the Gaggia wand. Wiggle the wand through the hole. I had to give the wand a very tiny bend, really tiny to get this through. Next you have to release the three little clips in the black ball end to open it and separate in two. I forgot to take pics of this bit but the video on page 4 of this thread shows it perfectly! The Rancilio wand then is replaces the Gaggia one. I kept the Gaggia little rubber O ring in as it was fatter so deemed it would be more steam tight. Slide the bottom of the ball joint up the Rancilio wand and it just clips back in. Thread your new Rancilio wand back down through the hole into position. Screw the little silver top plate back on over the ball joint. This is probably the most fiddly bit of the job due to space and not taking the outer shell off but still pretty easy and I have big hands.
  5. I thought I'd post this here, as it's something that could probably apply to many other machines - although what I've done is for the Gaggia Classic: After thinking and Googling long and hard, I've found a suitable way of having an automatic shot timer on the Gaggia Classic. Have a look at the video below for an example (which shows my heavily modded Classic with pressure gauge, PID, pressure profile dimmer, + Invensys pump and the shot-timer). This is a slow ramp up (courtesy of the vibe pump anyway) to a 32s pour at 6 bar.... tasted pretty good with lots of crema! So - for the detail of what I've used for the timer and how it's wired into the Classic: I bought one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/290914276673?roken=cUgayN It's £13.30 delivered - so not expensive at all. There's a variety of these timers, all 3 digit ones seem to be called ASY-3D timers - but the important parts are that it's 0-99.9s and 220V. They're not easy to find in that combination. Also note that they're often sold without the back-plate that you attach the wires to. Anyway - wiring is quite simple... It requires 3 wires into the Classic case. A permanent neutral feed, a switched live in (from the brew switch) and a timed live out (from the timer). So - the first connection (Pin 2 of the timer) is to a permanent neutral feed (the lower of the connections on the rear power socket), another (Pin 7) to the top pin of the brew switch on the main switchboard (you disconnect the existing cable that's on there), and another (pin 5) to the disconnected cable that was previously on the top brew bin of the main switchboard. Finally you jumper pin 7 to pin 8 also. See photos of the connections etc. below: As the timer is set 'manually' using the push buttons - it requires no power to be "programmed" and you can always see the time that it's set to. In my demo video it's set to 32.0s - but you can set it to anything from 0.1s to 99.9s. Should you wish to extend the pour whilst in the middle of it, you can increase the time by pressing the buttons mid-count and it'll obey whatever the new setting is. If you want to stop a pour early then you can simply flick the brew switch off again or press the timer buttons to reduce the time. If I can find a suitable project box to put this in (which is my main challenge at the moment - finding a damn box that doesn't cost more than the timer that I'm putting in it... and any help appreciated [roughly 120x100x70mm]) then I may also fit an over-ride momentary push button switch to extend the time (or bypass it) - though not sure it really needs it. It works really well - flick the brew switch on, the timer starts counting and fires the pump and solenoid - and the shot starts pouring. When the timer hits the target time, it stops - and kills both the pump and solenoid (just as if you'd hit the brew switch to turn off). To run the next shot, you simply flick the brew switch off and then on again and it does the same thing again. Anyway - I'm sure this simple method of running the pump etc. would apply to other machines - so although it's working well on a Classic I'm sure sure it'd apply just as well to variety of other 'switched' machines. Let me know if you use it on anything else. ...and if anyone can come up with a sensible box or project box (ideally black ABS or aluminium) to house it in then I'm all ears - as I can find something vaguely suitable but would rather not spend more on the box than I did on the timer (just because logically, I find that wrong!). Anyway - enjoy and I hope this proves useful to others.
  6. Hi guys, I'm a complete newb and am working with a 1425w Italian Gaggia Classic and a Krups GVX2 burr grinder. I currently have no budget left but want to get my sights set early on my grinder upgrade. I have a Nemox Lux in my sights and intend to carry out the steppless mod once I've got my hands on a decent used machine. I'm hoping to get it over the doorstep at around £120-£150 including the mod. My questions are: 1. Is this a reasonable first choice or are there better options at this price range? 2. Are the burrs easily available as a replacement part if needed? I've had a cursory search and can't find them online. 3. Is this the cheapest way of achieving a consistent stepless grind? Thanks guys and gals.
  7. Hi there, just for the fun of it - here‘s my office unit. Lately did a little service, it‘s such a neat and fun piece to work on. Very accessible despite its compact footprint. If anyone has questions about the 0835 (or other Quickmill-specific groups) just let me know...!
  8. Hello folks, for today I upgraded the ugly sticking out stock shower bolt and screen for RS. I think it is worthwhile. Cheers
  9. Hi, Appologies if this has been covered, I tried having a look and the majority came up with info for Mazzers grinders etc. I have a Eureka MDMCA 65mm burr grinder which I believe is the same as a Simonelli MDX. The opening that the existing hopper fits into is 52.5mm, which size lens hood would be best, I think my options are either 49mm or 52mm. To my mind 52mm seems closest, but having never seen a lens hood in the flesh, I'm assuming the size corresponds to the plastic threads and the rubber looks as if it might be a little wider? As the hood will need to fit within the existing opening, perhaps the 49mm would fit best? It won't be possible to stretch it how I have seen them installed on the other threads. Any help greatly appreciated. Patrick
  10. Today I had a real fun with this mod. It took me about 3 hours to prepare the funnel, which is really nice Chinese stuff actually, no worse than original one. I don't have a plate for the motor so I put a piece of self adhesive paper to cover it temporary. Here I am attaching some pictures with wiring from SJ Auto to manual and funnel mod preparation. Retention is in the region of 0.1-0.2 gram if you clean the chute, pretty good. I highly recommend this relatively easy modification. Will think for the motor cover now.
  11. I've been watching eBay for a suitable Baby as a project, and the model I wanted was the one with 4 square buttons across the front, which should date from around 2004. So bought one and waiting for it to arrive. I wanted a Baby since the top comes right off and it's easier to work on than a Classic, and this model should also have the larger solenoid. I'm planning to swap in a Classic type OPV to get the pressure to 10 bar, though when it comes I'll put my pressure gauge on it and see what it has at present. Any other ideas for what to upgrade on this model Baby? Hopefully it all works fine already. It'll be a second machine if ever I have to work on my Classic.
  12. Hi, First post here and first Gaggia machine. Loving the machine so far even though it did highlight that I need a new grinder, the Bodum Bistro just wasn't good enough even with the 0.8mm offset top burr holder - ROK manual grinder does the job though. Anyway, I notice a lot of folk are sticking card in to the power switch to hold it in keeping the machine from automatically turning off after 9 minutes or so. This isn't great, if the switch has backed off a bit there's a chance of a poor contact which could mean high resistance meaning lots of heat and or fire. My solution, which you can do two ways: 1. Swap the power switch with the extraction/pump switch. 2. Buy an extraction/pump switch (approx £13?) and change it over with the power switch. The only problem with the first option is that you have to hold in the button for your entire pull/extraction... But I actually prefer this option, and, it saves me another £13. The quirk with swapping or exchanging the switch is: 1. One press (switch in IN position) will turn the machine on and it'll stay on, effectively disabling automatic timeout. 2. Another press (switch now in OUT position) will keep the machine on with the 9 minute automatic timeout enabled (operates like normal); unless, the 9 minute timeout has lapsed from 1st switching on, if this is the case the machine will power off. If within 9 minutes of 1st switching on,these two apply: 3. 3rd press (switch in IN position) operates same as first press. 4. 4th press (switch in OUT position) will turn machine off. Hope that helps. Gives you both options of having the 9 min timer enabled or disabled. Simplified: 2015 Operation - Press button twice. (Timer enabled, auto off) Pre 2015 Operation - Press button once and leave on for 9+ minutes. (2nd press turns off machine) P.s. The switch covers do come off and can be swapped over so they identify the switch function normally. P.p.s. Both types of switches are rated for the same voltage & current. Cheers, Kev
  13. I love my mythos - there I said it. Partnered with an L1 (my shiny new toy) it produces the goods in the cup but it does have its negatives too. I find that there is too much retention in the exit chute (solved by wiggling a chopstick there) as well as coffee spray leading to irregular distribution. It was good - but I felt that it fell short of being great. Browsing around online I found this excellent article from eight ounce coffee on modding the mythos to solve the problems I was experiencing by replacing the clump breaker with the one from the NS Mythos One. This changes the clump breaker plastic piece to a strange "wings" formation and moves this above the exit chute in close proximity to the burrs, reducing retention and controlling the exit speed of the ground coffee. My thought on reading this article was "I want some of that". The next step on my search was to find a company where I could get the NS parts needed (see parts list below). This proved to be problematic as NS coffee machines are easy to find but I could not find anyone with NS grinder parts (Claudette from Bella Barista was very helpful but even they only stocked the Eureka Mythos parts - not the parts for the NS mythos one). Eventually I found another article that appeared to indicate that UCC coffee has exclusivity on selling NS parts in the UK so I contacted them to discuss ordering the parts I needed. They usually only sell to the trade but eventually after some discussion agreed to set up a personal account for me so I could order the parts. It came to approximately £60 including VAT (I cannot remember how much they charged for delivery and there was a small surcharge for paying by card instead of cheque / direct bank transfer) and I waited (im)patiently for about a week till the parts arrived. First the hard part, taking out the old chute. Before you start I would strongly advise you beg / borrow / steal (not the third option) a precision (small) cross screwdriver - you will need it. I first removed the 2 small screwdrivers that hold the clump breaker in place and removed the small metal cover and clump breaker to give me full access to the chute. After giving this a good clean I attempted to remove the final small screw that holds the chute in place - once you have removed the clump breaker you will be able to see this although access is very tight unless you have the requisite precision screwdriver. I found this last screw to be extremely tight and almost ate away the head of the screw trying to loosen this up. In the end I got a friend to help hold the grinder steady so I could bring all my strength to bear and was finally able to take off the final screw. After another nice cleanup I sat the new clump breaker on top of the (new) exit chute (you will know when this is right as both clump breaker and chute have a screw hole which needs to align in order for this to work) and pushed them into place and applied one of the new screws. With this in place it only remained to refit the small metal plate where the old clump breaker used to sit (this further directs the coffee grounds straight into the centre of the basket) which was quite easy and then to give it a try. All I will say - good grinder to great grinder. Just remember that you may need to check / adjust your grind settings as the grinds are now light and fluffy with no clumping. Parts list: Part number Quantity 15030049 1 15030058 3 15030079 1 15030080 1
  14. A place to post a simple picture of or few words about something you built, moded or brought back to life today. As a huge fan of the "Postie thread" (http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?10791-What-did-the-Postie-bring-you-today) and just as huge a fan of DIY - I thought I would see if this would stick. (As cool as Posties are, making it yourself is even cooler, no?) Preferably coffee related but anything cool will do. Doesn't matter if it's simple, complex, been done a thousand times before, all fair game.
  15. NEW PRICE: £100 if picked up by the end of this weekend! I am moving to the 120V USA, so I'm selling my beloved Gaggia Paros. The Gaggia Paros is effectively a Gaggia Classic internally with a built in grinder, in a compact unit. It was a perfect starter kit for me in terms of price and counterspace. The grinder has worked well for me, and Mark (gaggiamanualservice.com) said they are 'quite good'. The Paros is easily modifiable, just like the classic, although the internal layout is different. I installed the Rancilio steam wand and adjusted the over-pressure valve to 9 bar. I also installed a PID with a sensor from MrShades; the controller sits beside the machine, so I didn't have to alter the case at all. Included: portafilter, double-shot non-pressurised basket. If you need a tamper, I can throw in my 58mm aluminium one, but it is not in the best condition. In the interest of selling this before I leave for the US, I'm asking £100 collected from London (near King's Cross), but I can pack it securely and deliver it at buyer's cost and risk. History: Bought on ebay in 2015 in good condition 10 doubles per week Fed 95% bottled water (Saka) Gasket replaced in January Decal with citric acid in January (and every 2-3 months prior)
  16. Hello folks, this seems to be my first mod since I have entered this realm. I bought my Gaggia classic with missing pipe for excessive water after 3way-valve as a result I had lots of water around after shots. My Gaggia is gold plated and even I order a ss one, I will end up with an ugly working configuration. Today I had some time to improvise and found out that a hard pipe from old manometer for measuring air pressure of car tires fits perfectly into the place. I gave it a chance and cut it down to the size. As a result a have flexible pipe that goes deep into the waste water pan. Pulled some shots and it works just fine. Happy
  17. Hi people, I own an old 9x Gaggia classic which has some spots of surface rust on usual places. What should I do in order to renovate it. Option 1 Powder paint coating Option 2 Finding a new ss body Option 3 I don't have such The tricky part is that it is gold coated so I don't know how situation is about painting. Thanks for your opinions.
  18. I have a Mazzer Mini, and I'm OK with the doser for convenience but there is retention to think of (the clean sweep mod is on the back burner). So in idle moments I research all the Mazzer mods to go doserless. I've looked at the octopus funnel but that needs work on cutting stainless steel, do-able but a pain even though stainless is potentially a slinky surface. https://www.tmart.com/Stainless-Steel-Funnel-Octopus-Balls-Tool-with-Rack-Silver_p369897.html So I've been looking at other funnels. Here's a couple of leads: Harmon Mute for trumpet, I presume aluminium: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/brass-instruments/denis-wick-dw5506-et-harmon-style-trumpet-mute This looks a bit like the above but not exactly: https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/la-pavoni-jolly-doser-modification-t30781.html Anybody got other ideas?
  19. Going out on a limb here, guys. Do FrankenBabies exist...? The good points about a Baby are removable case for easy access to internals and easily accessible water tank. The bad things are switches and PCBs that just stop working due to moisture etc. The Classic is simpler and much more reliable, but you have to delve into the innards to service it, take off boiler to access OPV and solenoid etc. So is it possible to just fit all the Classic internals into the Baby and mount the three way switch assembly on the front - probably fits the Baby Class with a plate to hold it? Most of the internals are probably the same anyway. You may ask "why" of course..... But is this actually possible? Maybe it would resurrect some Babies from the scrap heap at least?
  20. This week's installment of 'do I have nothing better to do with my time' features changing the steam taps for joysticks. Got the parts from Chris Coffee and it was an easy change using the adaptors they sell alongside the assemblies. P1040479 by wjheenan, on Flickr P1040482 by wjheenan, on Flickr Pointless? Probably, but it's pretty cool to use.
  21. 3D printed funnel to fit inside existing hopper out of view. Coffee grounds stick a bit, maybe due to static on plastic or surface finish so may add thin metal skin to help. Also made a a funnel to help coffee from spilling everywhere.
  22. Picked this up for £7.52 on ebay. £10 on a couple of baskets, £10 on rancilio steam wand and a bit of hacksawing and filing later this is the result. Looking to PID in the future. This is a bad example as it stays reasonably consistent but quite often find the extraction speeds up a LOT towards the end, anyone have any idea why this might be? pressure, channelling, basket size? Cheers, Toby
  23. Not sure if anybody here agrees but I reckon quite a bit of effort is required to keep a Pharos steady whilst grinding on the counter top. Given that I have an old shoulder injury that still plays me up, I've knocked up a couple of prototypes with a view to trying to minimise that effort. OE do supply milled aluminium 'Bench Dogs' (£16 each @ CoffeeHit) for this purpose but their use pretty much require that you screw them down to the worktop. Not everybody is going to be happy to drill the worktop especially if like me you have granite work surfaces. I believe OE have suggested that you can fix the dogs to a separate board and then find some means to steady the board but Posts on Home Barista suggest that this has not been a successful approach. So here are my prototypes so far....... One uses the Pharos Bench Dogs which are fixed to an aluminium plate which in turn attaches to a granite worktop using 4 suction cups. It certainly prevents rotation helps reduce hold down effort. It is still necessary to hold down the Pharos diametrically opposite the dogs. The second one is of my own design and looks to eliminate more effort than the dogs version. There is a little rocking motion that is down to flexibility in the suction pads I have used, but it is possible once underway to grind one handed. I will look to see if I can eliminate that rocking. I would welcome any comments from committed Pharos users. If requested then I will try and do a video comparison. I can see possibilities for one of the 3D printing guys making a one piece unit to attach to the alum suction plate? If there is genuine interest from a committed user or two, who have granite work surfaces, then it may be that I can get a prototype out there for evaluation.
  24. New week I shall hopefully order a Gene roaster and the general consensus is to mod it, that's not an issue as I'm a automation/control engineer by trade. But looking at the power monitor it seems that no-one sells them any more.....any alternatives? Also I read that the temperature isn't really too important, I guess why that's why you roast by power as it's the amount of heat being put into the system. So the second question is if it's worth controlling the temperature accurately by using an SSR and a PID controller rather than the mod?
  25. Hi all, I'm thinking about possibly putting on a PID onto my classic at some point. I was just wondering If people think they are really worth it? Does brewing at exactly a specific temperature make a difference? Also could anyone tell me what temperature a classic (if left on for around 30 mins) would run at out of the box? Thanks!
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