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Found 55 results

  1. Hi, First post here and first Gaggia machine. Loving the machine so far even though it did highlight that I need a new grinder, the Bodum Bistro just wasn't good enough even with the 0.8mm offset top burr holder - ROK manual grinder does the job though. Anyway, I notice a lot of folk are sticking card in to the power switch to hold it in keeping the machine from automatically turning off after 9 minutes or so. This isn't great, if the switch has backed off a bit there's a chance of a poor contact which could mean high resistance meaning lots of heat and or fire. My solution, which you can do two ways: 1. Swap the power switch with the extraction/pump switch. 2. Buy an extraction/pump switch (approx £13?) and change it over with the power switch. The only problem with the first option is that you have to hold in the button for your entire pull/extraction... But I actually prefer this option, and, it saves me another £13. The quirk with swapping or exchanging the switch is: 1. One press (switch in IN position) will turn the machine on and it'll stay on, effectively disabling automatic timeout. 2. Another press (switch now in OUT position) will keep the machine on with the 9 minute automatic timeout enabled (operates like normal); unless, the 9 minute timeout has lapsed from 1st switching on, if this is the case the machine will power off. If within 9 minutes of 1st switching on,these two apply: 3. 3rd press (switch in IN position) operates same as first press. 4. 4th press (switch in OUT position) will turn machine off. Hope that helps. Gives you both options of having the 9 min timer enabled or disabled. Simplified: 2015 Operation - Press button twice. (Timer enabled, auto off) Pre 2015 Operation - Press button once and leave on for 9+ minutes. (2nd press turns off machine) P.s. The switch covers do come off and can be swapped over so they identify the switch function normally. P.p.s. Both types of switches are rated for the same voltage & current. Cheers, Kev
  2. Hi people, I own an old 9x Gaggia classic which has some spots of surface rust on usual places. What should I do in order to renovate it. Option 1 Powder paint coating Option 2 Finding a new ss body Option 3 I don't have such The tricky part is that it is gold coated so I don't know how situation is about painting. Thanks for your opinions.
  3. I have a Mazzer Mini, and I'm OK with the doser for convenience but there is retention to think of (the clean sweep mod is on the back burner). So in idle moments I research all the Mazzer mods to go doserless. I've looked at the octopus funnel but that needs work on cutting stainless steel, do-able but a pain even though stainless is potentially a slinky surface. https://www.tmart.com/Stainless-Steel-Funnel-Octopus-Balls-Tool-with-Rack-Silver_p369897.html So I've been looking at other funnels. Here's a couple of leads: Harmon Mute for trumpet, I presume aluminium: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/brass-instruments/denis-wick-dw5506-et-harmon-style-trumpet-mute This looks a bit like the above but not exactly: https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/la-pavoni-jolly-doser-modification-t30781.html Anybody got other ideas?
  4. I got my hands on a Guatemala and got a bit carried away modifying it. So far I have -cut the body down in size (sits around 10cm shorter now) -stripped down and polished the clear acrylic top section of the body -painted it matt black (of course!) -replaced the burrs with SSP Red Speed coated -added speed control with a VFD To finish it off I plan to add a more detailed dial face and make a hopper with integrated puffer (to clear beans from below auger) and lens hood style bopper. I do not recommend reverting painted clear acrylic to clear acrylic. What a ball ache! It started with a half hearted ‘why would they use clear acrylic for this component?.. Wouldn’t it be cool if..’ Then before I knew it I had invested so much time into it that I had to see it through. The VFD was quite an interesting one. I was aware that probably the biggest weakness of the grinder was the burr speed. Initial research on speed controlling a capacitor start single phase motor wasn’t promising. Then eBay sent me a gift - a VFD with programmable boost start function BNIB. A different start capacitor relay and lots of wiring and programming later, success!! It grinds quite happily at 20Hz, which translates to just below 1200rpm down from just below 3000rpm at 50Hz.
  5. Picked this up for £7.52 on ebay. £10 on a couple of baskets, £10 on rancilio steam wand and a bit of hacksawing and filing later this is the result. Looking to PID in the future. This is a bad example as it stays reasonably consistent but quite often find the extraction speeds up a LOT towards the end, anyone have any idea why this might be? pressure, channelling, basket size? Cheers, Toby
  6. Hello, Does anyone have one of these (Anfim Hopper Protection Cone) they'd be willing to part with or know where I can snare one please? I've been after one for what seems an age now and I can only find them on coffee hit which is in limbo on restocking. Any help as usual would be greatly appreciated!
  7. Spent a happy hour or two, (or was it three or four?) yesterday putting just over 1kg of stales through my new Pharos hand grinder in order to season the burrs a little. I've just worked out that with an average dose of 18-20g per grind, I must have done about 60+ reps. That's actually a tad disappointing because towards the end of the session my mind was deliriously rehearsing how I would tell my grandchildren tales of how grandad singlehandedly tamed a wild Pharos by manning up to more than 600 consecutive grinds. Anyhow. Initially I was a little surprised as to just how much effort was required to convert them pesky beans to powder. Cranking the handle with one hand whilst keeping the beast stable on the work surface with the other hand does require some effort but most certainly it requires a certain technique. Fortunately, it only took a few goes to get the idea. The crux of it for me was deciding how best to grip the grinder in order to keep it steady. I've no doubt that it will be 'different greeps for different peeps' but whatever you decide on, don't ever grip above the top plate........ or the laser-cut stainless steel handle will slice the skin off your knuckles before you can say f*@*!!^ **!%$$!! And I mean right down to the bone! Don't ask me how I know! Good news / Bad news Good news.....Thanks to improved technique and no doubt some initial impact on the burrs, it wasn't long before the whole process became a piece easier. Bad news...... Despite improved technique and any other spurious initial impact, it wasn't long before an old war wound (left arm rotator cuff repair) decided that it was not happy. Not sure if it was rep 99 or not but decided it was time to change hands. Good new / Bad news Good news.... Initially, left arm, the wrong 'un, coped far better with rotating than it had with stabilising and the right arm was more than man enough in the hold down stakes. Bad news...... Left arm decided that 5 reps of cack-handed Pharos grinding was more than enough and quit the job. So it was that the quick release clamps were deployed in order to secure the Pharos base directly to the worktop, thereby relieving the left arm of any strenuous duty. That worked for a while and could well have been the final solution apart from the fact that it was a PITA repeatedly clamping and unclamping. The final solution, in the shape of a crude, Heath Robinson steadying device was born partly out of the desire to remedy the PITA of clamping mainly because time spent on it's construction gave me a welcome and almost legitimate break from grinding ffffing beans!!! The holding device, mackled out of old bits of this and that, held up well and enabled the Pharos to be rotated into place such that it was held down to the worktop and it was prevented from further clockwise rotation. The rest of the heroic 6000 reps of grinding were pretty much one-armed doddles, leaving the Pharos requiring not much more than 1 rev per gram. So is there any point to all the above piffle, I hear you ask? In truth, no but at a stretch there may be just a hint of value for Pharos users in the below piffle. I will try not to bore you too much as I appreciate that you have likely already read the above. It took a while to try and find the best way to efficiently remove the ground coffee. I improved as time went on and ended up removing the bung, putting a plastic container over the exit hole and shaking and tapping etc. Often it was awkward to shake and rotate or whatever whilst holding the container in place. So today I trawled various stores on the lookout for something that might 'fit' the Pharos. End result is a small food container that is a snug push fit inside the Pharos' rubber base. It has a flange that restricts how far it can be inserted. It happily stays in place so you can twist, shake, knock or spank the Pharos' bottom, if that's what floats your boat, in order to remove the grinds. Not quite Voodoodaddy but non invasive and currently available from Waitrose stores at only £1.00 each !! Raises the grinder by 50mm I am going to look at making a worktop holding device that might work with the container attached. Edit: Remove original green lid before fitting.
  8. I love my mythos - there I said it. Partnered with an L1 (my shiny new toy) it produces the goods in the cup but it does have its negatives too. I find that there is too much retention in the exit chute (solved by wiggling a chopstick there) as well as coffee spray leading to irregular distribution. It was good - but I felt that it fell short of being great. Browsing around online I found this excellent article from eight ounce coffee on modding the mythos to solve the problems I was experiencing by replacing the clump breaker with the one from the NS Mythos One. This changes the clump breaker plastic piece to a strange "wings" formation and moves this above the exit chute in close proximity to the burrs, reducing retention and controlling the exit speed of the ground coffee. My thought on reading this article was "I want some of that". The next step on my search was to find a company where I could get the NS parts needed (see parts list below). This proved to be problematic as NS coffee machines are easy to find but I could not find anyone with NS grinder parts (Claudette from Bella Barista was very helpful but even they only stocked the Eureka Mythos parts - not the parts for the NS mythos one). Eventually I found another article that appeared to indicate that UCC coffee has exclusivity on selling NS parts in the UK so I contacted them to discuss ordering the parts I needed. They usually only sell to the trade but eventually after some discussion agreed to set up a personal account for me so I could order the parts. It came to approximately £60 including VAT (I cannot remember how much they charged for delivery and there was a small surcharge for paying by card instead of cheque / direct bank transfer) and I waited (im)patiently for about a week till the parts arrived. First the hard part, taking out the old chute. Before you start I would strongly advise you beg / borrow / steal (not the third option) a precision (small) cross screwdriver - you will need it. I first removed the 2 small screwdrivers that hold the clump breaker in place and removed the small metal cover and clump breaker to give me full access to the chute. After giving this a good clean I attempted to remove the final small screw that holds the chute in place - once you have removed the clump breaker you will be able to see this although access is very tight unless you have the requisite precision screwdriver. I found this last screw to be extremely tight and almost ate away the head of the screw trying to loosen this up. In the end I got a friend to help hold the grinder steady so I could bring all my strength to bear and was finally able to take off the final screw. After another nice cleanup I sat the new clump breaker on top of the (new) exit chute (you will know when this is right as both clump breaker and chute have a screw hole which needs to align in order for this to work) and pushed them into place and applied one of the new screws. With this in place it only remained to refit the small metal plate where the old clump breaker used to sit (this further directs the coffee grounds straight into the centre of the basket) which was quite easy and then to give it a try. All I will say - good grinder to great grinder. Just remember that you may need to check / adjust your grind settings as the grinds are now light and fluffy with no clumping. Parts list: Part number Quantity 15030049 1 15030058 3 15030079 1 15030080 1
  9. My current grinder is a Brasilia RR55OD which I'm really happy with now I've got the static issue resolved, but the one thing that isn't ideal with it is the fact that it isn't step-less, having 80 notched steps of grind adjustment. I've been googling around trying to see if there are any mods to make it truly step-less and found a few articles on peoples attempts ; http://coffeesnobs.com.au/grinders/25991-rossi-rr45-teflon-tape-mod.html http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/rr45-conversion-to-stepless-t24248-10.html http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/espresso/machines/215851 In the end I've come up with my own rather simplistic approach that actually seems work reasonably well. Not entirely step-less but it certainly gets me another step between each notch. I adjust to collar to a whole step and the press the adjustment locking button down and ease the collar round to mid position between this position and the next one and then wedge a cork in-between the collar and rear bracket to stop an further movement during grinding. Unfortunately I think this is an RR55OD only mod as I don't think the RR55 or RR45 have the rear bracket on them ? Ideally I'd like to add a wheel/knob attached to a small work gear on the step locking button to rotate the collar within each step. This would give the benefit of quickly locking into a specific whole step number and then infinite adjustment between that and the next step. This might just be the perfect excuse to buy a 3D printer and start prototyping some parts
  10. My next mod / upgrade is to PID my beloved Silvia, but which PID? Research on the Internet shows there are several models with differing features, different suppliers including sellers on eBay and possibly importing them directly from the USA. Being retired (AKA fiscally challenged!) means I have to get it right and buy once only. Would you be prepared to help me through this minefield by teling me your experiences? Your model, features, approximate cost, and perhaps most importantly, would you buy the same model from the same supplier again? (I am technically competent and will have no issues installing it.) Thanks, Dick
  11. Hi, Appologies if this has been covered, I tried having a look and the majority came up with info for Mazzers grinders etc. I have a Eureka MDMCA 65mm burr grinder which I believe is the same as a Simonelli MDX. The opening that the existing hopper fits into is 52.5mm, which size lens hood would be best, I think my options are either 49mm or 52mm. To my mind 52mm seems closest, but having never seen a lens hood in the flesh, I'm assuming the size corresponds to the plastic threads and the rubber looks as if it might be a little wider? As the hood will need to fit within the existing opening, perhaps the 49mm would fit best? It won't be possible to stretch it how I have seen them installed on the other threads. Any help greatly appreciated. Patrick
  12. Not sure if anybody here agrees but I reckon quite a bit of effort is required to keep a Pharos steady whilst grinding on the counter top. Given that I have an old shoulder injury that still plays me up, I've knocked up a couple of prototypes with a view to trying to minimise that effort. OE do supply milled aluminium 'Bench Dogs' (£16 each @ CoffeeHit) for this purpose but their use pretty much require that you screw them down to the worktop. Not everybody is going to be happy to drill the worktop especially if like me you have granite work surfaces. I believe OE have suggested that you can fix the dogs to a separate board and then find some means to steady the board but Posts on Home Barista suggest that this has not been a successful approach. So here are my prototypes so far....... One uses the Pharos Bench Dogs which are fixed to an aluminium plate which in turn attaches to a granite worktop using 4 suction cups. It certainly prevents rotation helps reduce hold down effort. It is still necessary to hold down the Pharos diametrically opposite the dogs. The second one is of my own design and looks to eliminate more effort than the dogs version. There is a little rocking motion that is down to flexibility in the suction pads I have used, but it is possible once underway to grind one handed. I will look to see if I can eliminate that rocking. I would welcome any comments from committed Pharos users. If requested then I will try and do a video comparison. I can see possibilities for one of the 3D printing guys making a one piece unit to attach to the alum suction plate? If there is genuine interest from a committed user or two, who have granite work surfaces, then it may be that I can get a prototype out there for evaluation.
  13. Gotta admire the ingenuity in this https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/espresso-preciso-bluetooth-scale-adapter-for-doserless-grinders-t36671.html
  14. So I am 90% toward finishing my first project, so thought I would share. Mazzer doser Auberins Timer mod. Very little DIY needed. This completely houses all 3 switches, and the timer. It requires a new hole to be drilled in the metal wall of the doser which allows the wires to enter the lid. Other than this it is just wiring. It requires the upper veins and screw to be removed but works in conjunction with a printed cone to direct the coffee to the lower vein sweepers. Finished product will be coated in a food safe resin, but I obviously cannot certify food safety beyond this. I'll post more details when I think it is 100% complete (should be about 2 weeks I think, but a lot of my project drag). I'll have to check things out with Glenn first but anyone interested can get one of these housings for about £30.
  15. Hi there, just for the fun of it - here‘s my office unit. Lately did a little service, it‘s such a neat and fun piece to work on. Very accessible despite its compact footprint. If anyone has questions about the 0835 (or other Quickmill-specific groups) just let me know...!
  16. Hello folks, for today I upgraded the ugly sticking out stock shower bolt and screen for RS. I think it is worthwhile. Cheers
  17. NEW PRICE: £100 if picked up by the end of this weekend! I am moving to the 120V USA, so I'm selling my beloved Gaggia Paros. The Gaggia Paros is effectively a Gaggia Classic internally with a built in grinder, in a compact unit. It was a perfect starter kit for me in terms of price and counterspace. The grinder has worked well for me, and Mark (gaggiamanualservice.com) said they are 'quite good'. The Paros is easily modifiable, just like the classic, although the internal layout is different. I installed the Rancilio steam wand and adjusted the over-pressure valve to 9 bar. I also installed a PID with a sensor from MrShades; the controller sits beside the machine, so I didn't have to alter the case at all. Included: portafilter, double-shot non-pressurised basket. If you need a tamper, I can throw in my 58mm aluminium one, but it is not in the best condition. In the interest of selling this before I leave for the US, I'm asking £100 collected from London (near King's Cross), but I can pack it securely and deliver it at buyer's cost and risk. History: Bought on ebay in 2015 in good condition 10 doubles per week Fed 95% bottled water (Saka) Gasket replaced in January Decal with citric acid in January (and every 2-3 months prior)
  18. Hi all, I'm thinking about possibly putting on a PID onto my classic at some point. I was just wondering If people think they are really worth it? Does brewing at exactly a specific temperature make a difference? Also could anyone tell me what temperature a classic (if left on for around 30 mins) would run at out of the box? Thanks!
  19. Thoughts please on my two potential “designs” for the acrylic tube hopper mod. I have decided on one of two routes, either: Option 1: Single 60mm external diameter acrylic tube, 5mm wall-thickness, 50mm internal diameter. Cut to 10cm length. Cost: £9.48 http://clearplastictube.co.uk/Clear-Acrylic-Tube/Clear-Acrylic-Tube-500mm-Length?product_id=298 Option 2: 60mm ED tube, 2mm wall-thickness, 56mm ID cut to 10cm, then smaller acrylic tube inside with 56mm ED, 3mm walls, 50mm ID cut to 12cm. Cost: £10.91. The two tubes will be sat inside each other, sort of like this: http://clearplastictube.co.uk/Clear-Acrylic-Tube/Clear-Acrylic-Tube-500mm-Length?product_id=504 http://clearplastictube.co.uk/Clear-Acrylic-Tube/Clear-Acrylic-Tube-500mm-Length?product_id=398 I intend to purchase a 49mm tamper to weight the beans, regardless of whether I choose Option 1 or 2. Option 1 is simpler, but would only sit 1 cm inside the mouth of the grinder, so I am concerned that might not be as stable. In Option 2, the smaller internal tube would protrude a further 2cm into the grinder, and offer a second point of contact with the grinder mouth, and so hopefully offering greater stability. The tubes would be glued together, but should be fairly tight and hold in place with friction. I am erring on the side of Option 2. Thoughts?
  20. New week I shall hopefully order a Gene roaster and the general consensus is to mod it, that's not an issue as I'm a automation/control engineer by trade. But looking at the power monitor it seems that no-one sells them any more.....any alternatives? Also I read that the temperature isn't really too important, I guess why that's why you roast by power as it's the amount of heat being put into the system. So the second question is if it's worth controlling the temperature accurately by using an SSR and a PID controller rather than the mod?
  21. whic rancilio wand is best for gaggia classic there seems to be a few versions on eBay. My classic is I think a 2001. Thanks
  22. Having just picked up an EC221.b (pretty much the same build as the 155 and 146), I've modded the portafilter, baskets and steam wand, all is going great, nice looking extractions etc. Just wondering if anyone has any experience at all with adjusting the thermostats on the boilers for these machines though, as I'm pretty sure my brew temp is too high and my espresso is getting a little bit burnt as a result. Cheers in advance, Toby
  23. Hi guys I just picked up an E7 second hand as I wanted to up my grinder quality to go with my new machine. Curious if anyone has found any time and coffee efficient workarounds, or even mods to make it doserless, as I've noticed it's not the best when it comes to grind retention in the dosing chamber. At the moment I've resorted to using a compressed air duster to blow stale grinds into position to be dosed out but can see this getting quite frustrating (and expensive!!) after a while. Cheers Toby
  24. Hi all, Don't ask how but I have managed to break one of the boiler contacts, pic below. There is a stub left still - do you guys think I could solder the relevant wire back onto this.....or is it bin time? Cheers, Matt.
  25. Ive been looking for a click clack lid for my rocky and cant seem to find a uk supplier anywhere. am i looking in the wrong places? or is there a uk based equivalent? And if anyone has used this on their rocky before, does it push the majority of grind retention out?
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