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Found 9 results

  1. I don't (or at least didn't) know much about espresso machines, but have been happily using a Gaggia classic for about 5 years until I saw a Rocket Giotto and loved how it looked. But I couldn't justify the cost for a cappuccino or two a day just because it looked nice. A day later, I spotted a faulty ECM Giotto on eBay, all I knew was that it tripped the power when you turn it on. 5 minutes of research told me it was a predecessor to the Rocket Giotto, and so, knowing nothing about how a coffee machine works, I snapped it up for £150 and crossed my fingers that it would be an easy fix instead of an expensive paperweight. After opening it up my first surprise was that it was a plumbed in model, which I didn't know existed! Setting about the repairs, the heater which was my primary suspicion checked out ok for resistance so I looked at the Giemme control unit. A ribbon cable inside was snapped off and a capacitor had also lost a leg so I fixed that but still the issue persisted. It turned out the heating element was shorting to earth, but only when under power. The next job was to figure out why the heater had blown, so I put a light bulb on the heater circuit and it showed the control unit was powering up the heater but not turning on the pump to fill the tank with water, hence frying the element. As luck would have it I found a replacement Giemme control unit for £40 and a heating element from Bella Barista for about the same. With these both in things were better, but now I had water pressure I got a number of leaks from various places (someone had already attempted to fix it previously it seems). I cleaned up all the compression fittings and used gas PTFE on the threaded ones and got everything water tight. The next issue was no water flowing from the group, for this I looked at the solenoid valve that splits the water flow between the tank and the heat exchanger - it was seized up so I soaked it in descaler until I could manually activate it with a magnet then checked it worked with the electronic coil attached. Now I had water flow, but it all came out the OPV instead of the group, so that got a full dismantle and clean out, but it didn't fix the issue and blew a plastic water pipe open as I wound the OPV all the way in and created too much pressure. £2 of pipe later and I removed and dismantled the E61 group for a thorough clean. It turned out that there is a single pin hole in one of the top fittings that was scaled up and blocking all flow. I also spotted the group head gasket was still the original one and hard as rock so that got replaced too for a couple of quid from bella barista again. Now I had heat and water flow so I brought the unit up to temperature and pressure to see what happened. The boiler pressure gauge didn't move, but there was definitely pressure in the unit. The gauge is a bit daft as it is a long thin pipe soldered in to the gauge. I figured it was blocked and tried various ways to inject descaler down the tube to no avail. I was heating it up to desolder the pipe from the gauge and heard a few popping noises - so thought i'd give it one last test before removing it all and it worked! The heat must have cracked open the scale enough to allow some air flow. This meant I could test the pressure - at about 0.8 bar the pressure release valve was opening before the pressure switch would activate, hence the tank never got to full pressure. Cleaning the pressure valve didn't work so I used some washers to add back in some spring tension that had been lost over the years. And finally, after fixing far more than expected, but learning a lot... It works! Total cost of about £250 (plus some time!) which I am pretty happy with. I still have a few jobs to do: - I need a find or make drip tray - Pressure gauge seems to work OK but doesn't reset to zero - I might have to desolder the pipe for a proper descale. - Need to fit a new boiler safety valve at some point - it works great from a water bottle or Brita filter (better than having a tank I think) but I need to loop the OPV back there instead of the drip tray as it fills up quickly - Give it a proper descale up it is up and running - Relearn milk frothing. I had it great on the Gaggia but struggle with the 2 hole tip on this, it heats it up much quicker! - Somehow test the group water temperature to set the boiler level sensor up properly I hope this post might be of use if anyone else has a faulty one o is thinking of buying one. Let me know if you have any questions!
  2. Dear all i bought my machine last March from Myespresso and have enjoyed using it for many months. Sadly about 6 weeks ago we started having problems with the electrics and I finally worked out that it was the coffee machine causing the problems. Since then I moved to plunger coffee and there hasn't been a problem. an electrician came round to look at the problem and do some other stuff and he tested the machine by passing a current through the plug pins and he said that it was at fault. 3 days ago I sent it to Myespresso at a cost of £33 and received a call the next day saying there was nothing wrong with it. I even got my electrician to call and explain his findings and he was told that there was nothing wrong and that it wasn't doing it now. I asked him to do the current test and he said he'd do it the next day. i didn't receive a call that day and this morning I recieved a text from a courier saying it was on its way back !! I phoned him and he said that they'd testedd it thoroughly and couldn't find a problem. Ive just had a quick look through this forum and have found about 5 instances of Silvia s tripping the fuse box. While I hope that he is right I have the sensation that I am being fobbed off. I'm confident that the machine will start tripping the fuse within a week and we could potentially end up repeating this process. does anyone have any suggestions ? ed
  3. Hello.... Ladies/Gents... Recently my La Pavoni, keeps blowing the fuses in my house ! So I decided to investigate.... Horrible horrible amounts of limescale, I couldn't believe the quantity of limescale, so I started to clean everything before investigating the real problem. The problem I think must be; the heating element which is shorting out, or the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is not the type with the reset button. I doubt the on/off switch is failing, so it can only be either the thermal fuse, or element... My machine is from around 1984/7 ? It has the plastic base cover and as I say, no reset on the thermal fuse, which I understand was introduced later. If the heater/boiler is not functioning, does anyone know where I might be able to get the heating element, ideally the same as the original one? I plan to buy an AVO / DVM ....later today and test the heating element. I've attached some pics.... which show the horrendous amounts of limescale.... Any thoughts ideas much appreciated. Many thanks for your help. Phil Phil
  4. Hi Hopefully somebody can point me in the right direction.My beloved 5 year old Silvia V3 has started to trip my fusebox instantly I turn it on.It doesn't do it after a while or during heat up;its straight away. I have no idea why this might be but after 5 years of excellent coffee,could it be the boiler has failed? Layman's terms only please I need caffeine!! Thanks in advance!
  5. Hey! This is an extremely niche question but maaaaybe someone here knows something that can help me. I got a used Sama (pre-Pontevecchio) Lusso off eBay last year and it worked great until it didn't... Ran dry and blew the heating element and pressurestat. I sent it to Frank at Ferrari Espresso who is looking over it (I got the machine used and wanted to service it anyway) but the elements he'd normally use for a Pontevecchio Lusso (Isomac elements) doesn't fit the Sama as the thread is different. So I need to find another one. I've contacted Pontevecchio to ask if they know anything about the old Sama boilers but they being Italian and this being August I'm not holding my breath for a reply for another few weeks. So here's the question: has anyone here ever swapped out the element in a Sama Lusso? And if so, did the stock (new) Pontevecchio one fit? Fingers crossed! Erik
  6. I have a Rancilio Silvia about 16 months old. It is use daily, but usually once. I always use reverse osmosis water and refill the boiler after steaming by pumping water out through the steam wand. It is fitted with the new EU compliant switch which cuts power after 30 mins. The heater has stopped working. When plugged in to a power outlet the orange thermostat light comes on before the power switch is active. The green light comes on when the power switch is activated and the orange light remains on. No heating takes place but the pump is still active. Do you think that the switch has developed a fault? Do you think the boiler has burnt out?
  7. Hi Guys, first post here for me so thanks for any help and advice you can give me. I have an old Silvia which stopped heating up over the weekend. The BOL is constantly on but not getting hot and the pump is working as water is passing through the group head. I have taken the lid off and tried the thermostat reset but it hadn't tripped. I have since broken the little red button as it was very brittle. I then researched and figured it could be a whole host of things and would likely need a multimeter to test. Having disconnected the machine from the mains I put the meter into ohms mode and put each pin on each side of all the thermostats (2 on top and also reset thermostat) and all gave a reading of around 0.3ohms I then put the meter across the two terminals for the heater element and got no reading at all. I then tried red lead to each terminal while black lead on boiler earth point and got no readings back from both of those. What exactly is this telling me so I can get the correct parts to repair it? The silvia is the old boiler type with the welded in element. If the diagnosis is a faulty element can I upgrade to the newer type boiler with screw in element? Thanks everyone.
  8. I provide below a description of the process I went through to solve the problem of a ruptured brew boiler heating element on my Vesuvius. I’d had the Vesuvius for maybe 2 months when I started to notice the brew water had become very cloudy. When I was sure the water was actually always coming out cloudy, I stopped using the machine and asked for help on the forum. Whilst everyone was helpful, I was convinced the problem was not the obvious: needed a good clean, e.g. start backflushing regularly; what kind of water are you putting into it? The water was just too cloudy for these helpful suggestions to be the cause. After leaving a glass of the output cloudy water for several hours, it would eventually clear leaving a fairly significant residue of fine white powder in the bottom of the glass. By the way, it was only the brew water that was cloudy; water from the steam boiler was clear as a bell. After a bit more pondering, I decided I needed to open up the brew boiler and see what was inside. The only way to do this is to remove the heating element. After contacting @DavecUK to ask advice, he told me I needed a 36mm box spanner, and even gave me a link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-51...DCGAHHHHKNVSNK where they were on sale for £12, pretty good price I thought. The tool selection is pretty crucial. The base of the heating element is recessed by a few inches into the body of the machine. There is no room to use anything like an adjustable spanner - you need a box spanner or socket to get in there with the necessary leverage. To gain access to the brew boiler element, I lifted the machine onto a pair of benches, so I could access it from underneath while I was lying on the floor - front of the machine on one bench, rear on the other. Removing the base plate was easy using an allen key on the bolts. The brew boiler is the smaller of the two boilers. First remove the two push-on electrical leads. Removing the element with the box spanner was not difficult as it is not screwed on hugely tightly. You need to unscrew it carefully and slowly to allow the water to drip out at a controlled flow, so that it just drips out onto the floor, i.e. without soaking anything else near at hand like bits of the machine and electrical contacts. I found the culprit immediately. The element had ruptured and was spilling its contents, magnesium oxide white powder, at a steady rate into the boiler. I contacted Paolo at ACS who agreed to supply me with a replacement heating element. After allowing the boiler tank to dry out for a few days, I used a small brush to remove the remaining white powder at the base of the tank. The replacement element was easy to install using the box spanner again. However, I did find it difficult to know how tightly to screw it in, as the screwing in became tight quite quickly, and, as it turned out, before it was fully secured in place. I then powered the machine up and followed the instructions in the manual on how to fill up the boiler from empty. This worked but I found the boiler was leaking quite significantly, so I switched off the machine and let it cool for a few minutes. I then tightened up the element, which now felt looser and easier to screw in. I then left it to cool for several hours to see if any more leaks occurred, since the tank had now filled up. It did continue to leak in slow drips, so I continued to tighten it up until no further drips, leaving a piece of kitchen paper on the floor under the tank overnight to check. I then proceeded with the instruction manual, drawing 1 litre of water in 200ml amounts through the group head. The first 200ml was a bit cloudy. When I’d got to the last of the five 200ml amounts the water was completely clear - to my great relief. Problem solved! I then replaced the base plate and replaced the machine on the worktop for normal use. I left a piece of kitchen paper under the machine to check for any drips over the next few days. My first coffee out of the machine was delicious, after a five week period without! Whilst this problem was a bit difficult to diagnose initially, I’ve got to thank everyone for chipping in with suggestions. Particularly, I have to say a big thank you to @DavecUK for his helpful advice along the way, particularly the tool selection in this case. We are so lucky to have Dave and one or two other true experts on the forum, who pass on their advice freely and selflessly. Feel free to ask any questions. I’m sure I will have missed out some significant points.
  9. This morning my girlfriend switched on the Silvia and said it was making a sizzling noise, I came to have a look and the power light wasn't on so I switched it a few times and it didn't turn on. I then noticed that I must have tripped something as nothing else was working in the kitchen so checked the fuse box and flipped it back and it tripped again after the Silvia was turned on. I did a little search and saw that it's usually the heating element or the pump so I just disconnected the heating element terminals and it all lights up. If I put the terminals back on it trips. i just wanted to check that I should defiantly replace the heating element?
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