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Found 7 results

  1. Unexpectedly, the group on my twin boiler Fracino Piccino stopped producing hot water yesterday. I searched online advice and suspected I may have induced an air lock - although I wasn't convinced.... Today, I took it apart and, with the power on but no chassis (being very careful too!) I checked the flow of electricity from the mains input through to the group boiler. It's worth noting that Fracino have loads of excellent PDFs online, including a comprehensive parts list and wiring diagram. I found two thermostats on the boiler, they should both have live current going through them and terminating on one side of the boiler element. Using a voltmeter I found that the lower stat was closed (power flowing through)but the top one was open, effectively preventing mains power reaching the element. This stat should only open once the temperature reaches 90 degrees or so at the top of the boiler. With the mains power off, I removed the stat by unscrewing it and gave the spade contacts a good wiggle! Using a continuity tester I found that the contacts had now closed. I popped the stat back on, reconnected the spades and powered it up. The group boiler immediately heated up and the stat opened when the outside of the boiler reached about 60 degrees. It's been working fine now for the rest of the day! I'll order a new pair of stats from Fracino and replace both of them asap. I hope this helps someone in the future - a frustrating problem with a simple solution
  2. Hey CoffeeForums, Just a post to confirm that the Cafelat Blue 8.5mm E61 Gasket fits the Classic perfectly. Much better than the original though that may be down to the fact it was perished. I found the cheapest provider was CoffeeHit at just £1.82 each for the gasket! Tobie.
  3. I’m very much out of touch on forum and remember a couple of years back these were doing the rounds. Does anyone have one I could borrow for a couple of days in exchange for beer tokens or some coffee related compensation Have reason to beleive dial on expobar may not be reading all that accurately! Ta David
  4. ---THIS POST HAS BEEN EDITED TO REFLECT ENTIRE PROCESS AND FOR EASY READING. REPLIES TO BELOW THREAD ARE IN REFERENCE TO "original OP" QUOTED BELOW--- During restoration of a VBM machine, I was umming and arring about removing the pitting/dents the group has suffered from commercial use. I then used an abrasive polish on the group which caused scratching, I got a proper chrome polish and tried to remove these but I went straight through the chrome... this sealed the deal and I took the group off to the electro-platers to be de-chromed. The process of de-chroming, and the process to come in which I will have it re-chromed cost £30 excl VAT in total. The process I used to remove the pits - this can be achieved with a high speed home drill (mine is from tesco), some flap wheels, sanding paper/pads and some polishing mops. Where to buy these items linked below. Due to the shape of the group this process was slow, and I had 10 or so drill slips which cause another pit for me to remove. If possible mount your drill on a vice and maneuver the group, otherwise be very very careful and go slowly. Total work time on this group (for a novice, such as myself) was in the region of 8 hours. >Start with the highest grit you can, I had to start with 80 on some parts, 120 on others. I used flap wheels on a high speed drill/dremel. Be very careful, a small flap wheel held too long on one spot will create a shallow dip, distort the light and look odd when finished. >work you way through the grits, I had the following flap wheels so this is the process I followed 80>120>240>320. Perpendicular at each stage where possible to remove every last scratch. Check for scratches from the previous stage under strong light and at all angles, you want every single line gone, or you will be going back to it later. >At this stage I used medium then fine 'AHPcontour' pads, at a guess these are equivalent to about 800/1600 grit. * > I then used Autosol on a loose fold mop on a high speed drill for the next stage, going over the whole thing until I was sure there was nothing left from the previous stage, then going over a couple more times. >Then compound p175 on a loose fold mop (This is good enough for chroming but ultra fine hairline scratches can be seen at very obtuse angles) spend a long time going over and over on this stage until you are 100% sure you have covered the previous stage. * After speaking with the owner of "thepolishingshop.co.uk" (after I had already been through the process above) I was informed that his compounds are capable of polishing from 320grit. This would be achieved with 439T green compound on a close stitch colour mop followed by p164 blue with a 'G-mop' then finished with p175 yellow on a WDR loose fold. This method would not have been suitable for some of the nooks and crannies on the group, as the close stitch mops would not have reached in there. Compounds and abrasive flap wheels bought from "http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk". Absolute 5 star service, not to mention the best prices online (better than amazon in most cases), a fantastic £2 delivery option that has never taken more than 2 days, and really high quality compounds (in my admittedly limited experience). Was very responsive via email and put my mind very much at rest that I had achieved a good enough finish, a rare site that ticks every box you could want. I bought my abrasive pads from Amazon, but they are cheaper on the above link, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from there in the future. Here you see the worst pitting to the front of the group, and the dirt and oxidation from being in the de-chroming solution Here you see pitting in the top of the group after an initial polish with Autosol This image shows the pitting removed as per my process above, this is after the fine abrasive pad, and before Autosol The image below shows the front of the group after Autosol, the camera fibs quite heavily here and doesn't show the scratches that Autosol leaves. This image shows the top of the group after Autosol. You can see the scratching on the group, it is the same all over, but the camera is again lying about the rest of the group. And then after polishing with p175 The group head came back from the Electro-platers. How does it look? Well good and bad results. It looks much much better than before. But its not perfect. I read online before polishing that "Chrome is a mirror of the surface below" and this could not be more accurate, it is also a very effective mirror, much better than brass, so any imperfections not only show up but show up very well. Polishing is not just about 'painting by numbers', although that will get you so far, there is obviously a nuance and an expert understanding of the processes involved that mean you are unlikely to get perfect results on your first try and a thing like this. All that said, I am very happy with the job I have done, and the group looks so much better than before. For those interested, the Electro-Platers said they would charge about £60 for polishing, which would have been £90 in total. I have no idea how good a job they would have done in comparison to myself. Here is the finished article This is the pitting I was removing, it's still there albeit much less. I did not notice this at all in the brass, and was pretty surprised to see it in the chrome. Just goes to show how good of a mirror the chrome is.
  5. Can anyone enlighten me please on the effect of exchanging a 'standard' gicleur for a finer one? I believe that E61 machines normally come fitted with either a 0.6 or 0.8mm gicleur, but that 0.5mm is considered to be better. In what way is it better, and if it is indeed better, why aren't machines supplied fitted with a smaller gicleur in the first place? I am aware that the gicleur influences the flow rate of the brew water through the group but what in practical terms of pulling a shot would be the effect of reducing it? Machine is Quick Mill Verona... I'd be interested to know just what gicleur size is fitted as supplied. Thanks in anticipation, Tony.
  6. Hi, I am replacing my grouphead to boiler seal on my Cremina67. What should I use? Silicone o ring? Teflon gasket 3mm thick? 1.5mm thick? Any help? Thanks
  7. Just received a brass shower plate & IMS screen for my Gaggia Classic as recommended by @ashcroc & @rob177palmer (shameless call for assistance there ) and was just wondering if running some hot water through once fitted is sufficient or if I need to clean them a bit more rigorously...? Any thoughts/help very appreciated! Thank you
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