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Found 15 results

  1. Hi, I recently changed the group gasket, which has fixed a lot of leaking problems, but in the process I noticed the group head is covered in all sorts of crud. I tried to scrape the worst off with a knife and put it back, thinking it'll be okay for now (despite there being a small chunk missing near one of the screw holes). Anyway, after I'd put it all back together and descaled, the first cup of coffee tasted okay, but the second was metallic and foul. I decided to backflush and clean it all again - and exactly the same thing happened! So now I think I need a new group head, preferably a brass one, but I just can't find one on the UK market - any ideas? Many thanks, Charlie
  2. Hi guys I’ve got a Gaggia Classic (pre 2015) that has served me superbly since new, in 2014. This morning however I’ve noticed the group head is only dripping water?? No flow/pressure. If I switch to steam wand is pushes water through great. Is this a fault with the solenoid unit on the back of the boiler?? The machine has always been meticulously cleaned and serviced since I’ve owned it. I quite enjoy spending the time to do that, so I know it’s not clogged with coffee oils etc.. Look forward to your thoughts guys Cheers Bri
  3. Hi Striped down, descaled and rebuilt my Gaggai Classic over the Weekend. In trying to figure out what the optimal flow rate through the grouphead should be, I started by simply running a 30s fluid shot through an empty portafiller - 52mls. Is this about right? The back flush and end-of-shot decompression are all robust and the flow through the steamer head is strong - so wondering if the flow throught the grouphead is ok or do I have an undiscovered blockage? (PS. I haven't done the OPV mod and I have a non-pressurised basket) Thanks
  4. Hi Folks, I've had my DTP for about a month or so now and I've noticed that the water flow from the group head isn't dispersed very evenly. I'll get a few long-ish streams of water on the left side while the right side mostly sees constant drips. Anyone have similar? Anyone getting evenly dispersed water streams? Espresso extraction seems alright but I don't have a benchmark since the machine has been like this since I got it.
  5. Hi, so I was just about to buy a bottomless pf for my gaggia classic and a ridgeless 18g VST basket to go with it when this made me pause: https://www.bellabarista.co.uk/vst-18g-ridged-precision-porta-filter-basket.html It says the basket is compatible for pf handles sized for E61 group heads. My question is: what kind of group head does a gaggia classic have and is there certain kind of VST basket that is compatible with it? Thanks Luke
  6. Hi there First post, perhaps of many now that I'm the owner of a Gaggia Classic. Well, sadly a non-functioning one at the moment. My dad gave me his 2003 Classic, it's in decent nick considering the age but a couple years ago water stopped coming through the group head and its been sat in storage since. I took off the shower screen and poked at the holding plate holes with a paperclip, a bit of coffee debris came loose and I now have water coming through one of the outside holes on the holding plate but none of the other four. I'm really struggling to get the holding plate off to clean it properly, I've removed both bolts but it won't come lose. I'm assuming over the years it has stuck to the gasket. Should I work at remove the boiler/group head from above to get at it? The solenoid clicks and the pump sounds fine, the steam wand works perfectly. It was descaled fairly regularly I believe and my parents live in an area with very soft water so scaling has never really been a problem. Any advice would be very welcome. Cheers
  7. Does anyone know the length of the screw that goes through the centre of the shower screen in to the group head on a Sage Dual boiler? Mine has sheared off in the GH and I’m just out of warranty, so looking to drill it out of the group head and replace with my own rather than go through what could be a stressful process with Sage. Thanks.
  8. Hello all I am new to this forum and hope some insightful and knowledgeable people can shed some light on the current situation I am in. I have a Francino Classic 1 grp. Initially water would surge through the pressure safety valve not the steam valve. I stripped all of it down and soaked all the parts in citric acid. On reassembly I now get hot water and steam from the wands. But no water from the group head. To stop the water coming out of the pressure valve I turn the water off from the mains,once the water gauge shows the tank to be full. So in affect I am acting as the "manual water filler " The questions I ask are does this model have an autoflll mechanism, if so where is it located on the machine ? What could the reason be behind there no water coming through the group head ? Any help whatsoever would be appreciated. I have also replaced the pressure safety valve,new steam valve ,and heat exchanger pipe and water probe. This machine does not seem to have much electronics. The water probe is linked to seemingly no where. This was a secondhand machine. Pictures of the machine have been included Thank you in advance
  9. Hi there.. Still experimenting with my Classic - but find I often get drips from the grouphead after I've made my shot and removed portafilter. Is this a sign that I need to replace seals? Thanks.. Phil
  10. Hi people! Keeping espresso machines neat and clean of left over grounds seems rather obvious and straight forward since everything is easily accessible and, for the most part, visible. Still, it gives me a headache to go after debris that much after each and every shot. To be sure I'm good to pull the next one, I undertake the following procedure: flush w/o portafilter, stop water brush group head gasket and shower screen sides (using a hard plastic brush that came with the machine) flush again, stop water again insert portafilter and rinse for 10+ seconds wipe filterbasket and shower screen with a towel Eqipment-wise it's all stock components on a Rocket Cellini Evo V2, I change the group head gasket regularly when it starts to harden. I tamp with a 58mm conical and keep the rim clear of grounds by a quick wipe after tamping. Just noticed the portafilter always has some play before locking in (greater diameter than shower screen apparently). I'm wondering what makes grounds climb up to the seal in the first place and/or whether this is normal? Am I loading too much (happens on stock single and double baskets)? Would be great if you could share your experience, no matter what make and model you're pulling shots from!
  11. I bought a Cremina 2002 from this forum a couple of years ago, and have been enjoying it very much since then. I use it for one espresso daily, sometimes a bit more. In 2 years, I've had to replace some wiring (which was dodgy when I bought it), and the power switch (because the light stopped working). I also replaced the pressure sensor, which was dodgy. Other than that, I've taken the shower screen out every couple of months and cleaned and relubed the insides of the group head. Today, for the first time in ages, I had to do some maintenance. The group head gasket had cracked, so I had to replace it. When I look back on that list of maintenance, it actually seems like quite a lot, and I'm not very skilled with my hands. I find myself wondering if there's anything out there that needs even less maintenance. There are other reasons to love the Cremina (small footprint, manual lever makes me feel connected), but perhaps there's something else I should consider. Any thoughts?
  12. Often called a three-way valve. When you press the button for coffee is there an audible "click" from inside the machine just before the pump runs? If so you have a solenoid valve.This is a smiple electricaly controlled valve that directs water to the group head/steam wand when the coffee/steam button is switched on. Any water/steam (under pressure) left between the valve and the group head/steam valve is then then exhausted into the tank as it closes. The clicking sound is the valve opening and closing. In simple terms this is how the valve works; The valve comes in two main parts, the Body & the Coil. The body is essentially a metal tube containing a small slug of metal with a small rubber seal on each end and a spring (the nucleous). When the valve is in the natural closed position, it is held closed by the spring. It will usually hold back pressures of upto 10 bar. It is controlled by the coil, a black square that sorrounds the body. As the name suggests contains a load of coiled wire. When electricity is applied to the coil (usually 240v AC or 24V DC) it acts as a strong electro magnet. The magnetic force then pulls the nucleous along the tube compressing the spring thus opening the valve. When the electricity is removed the spring snaps the nucleous to the closed position once more. The valve ensures that water is started and cut of in a controlled way. What if I don't hear a click? Then you don't have a valve. Instead, inside the group head is a small insert containing a rubber bung on a spring. The spring has enough power to hold back the 1 bar pressure of the boiler, but not the 9bar pressure of the pump. When the pump runs the water pressure pushes on the bung compressed the spring. The water flows. When the pump is switched off unlike the solenoid valve the residual pressure is not relieved to the water will continue to flow until the pressure dissapates. Helpful links. Wikipedia
  13. I think I get it how the water circuit of an HX machine is connected to the group head and how the theory of flushing works too I occurred to me that when it comes to dual boilers I am less knowledgeable Does the group get warm using the Brew boiler thereby working by the same principals as HX but using water of a lower temperature? Does this require pipework of a greater diameter in order that the syphon is faster flowing to offset the temp difference? Need links etc to clarify this in my mind please folks
  14. Need to take off the group head shower screen on a Verona. Any advice please, on the best way to do this. I am anxious not to cause any damage, to the grouphead obviously, but also to the screen and gasket, for they are both still serviceable. Once removed, the screen will be replaced with an IMS 200um competition screen, and the original (still fairly new) gasket seal refitted. Tony.
  15. Having searched and searched it looks as if nobody has had this problem. I recently disassembled the lever mechanism on the E16 group head for cleaning and lubricating (was getting a little stiff and squeaky). The machine is less than a year old so all components were actually fine. But upon re-assembly I hit a dead end when I found out that the main bolt that screws into the side female hole was going in at an angle. After checking and trying I realized that the threads of the female were very badly crossed/worn. I had never unscrewed this before. It totally renders the machine useless as I cannot put the lever together again (not only does it leak but the cam is not true and stiff). Can anyone recommend a remedy? Is there a way of fixing this (there is plenty of good thread left deeper in). The male bolt in question (part 527177 see attached) actually looks fine (I wish it was the opposite) so does this mean the entire group head shell will need replacing? Furthermore has anyone experienced a vibrating pump? The pressure gauge fluctuates during coffee extraction (+/- 1.5bars) and has become noisier. Pump replacement job? Zhirayr
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