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Found 733 results

  1. My old faithful Gaggia Classic had got far too scaled up. A lesson learned, use bottled water. It was time for a new coffee machine, but what to get. After much dilemma about whether a lever machine would be suitable or not, especially when I had guests, I decided against it. My wife decided for me that getting a new Gaggia would be a good idea as I had always been happy with my old one, until it died after lots of use. It seemed a good plan a slightly better machine was going to be lots more money, and lots bigger. The lever urge remained and a quick glance on ebay identified a pre millenium La Pav europiccola in my budget that would satisfy my needs. They both arrived today I have a few things to get, a 49mm tamper, some bottled water, a decent set of scales. I also think I will need to get myself a new grinder as I think the La Pav is going to show the weaknesses of my Iberital MC2. I may possibly get a decent hand grinder for the Pav if such a thing exists, reserach to be done. Anyway, here they are for now.
  2. I've been doing some research recently - and have now managed to quite easily disable the 20min timer on the latest 2018+ Gaggia Classic / Gaggia Classic Pro / Gaggia Classic 2019. Some quick background, and where I started from: The first image below is the switchbank of an EU Gaggia Classic 2018+, which has the timer. The second one is the switchbank of a US "Gaggia Classic Pro" version, that doesn't have the timer - but otherwise is very very similar. The wires used are largely different colours, but there's also two or three connectors that are used on the EU version, but unused on the US one. Curious.... ? So - with quite a bit of digging around, tracing wires, taking things apart and general investigation - I found that the easiest way to defeat the 20min timer is to simply remove the two "extra" cables from the front switch-bank (the green one and the blue one below it) and then to bridge these two wires together. Doing this doesn't seem to affect the machine in any other way - it turns on the same, heats up the same, brews, steams and turns off the same (but only when you press the button to do so, it doesn't turn off automatically after 20 mins). Hooray! I've shown some pics of the wire that I made up for this mod - using high temp flexible silicone cable and a couple of 6.3mm male spade connectors - you simply plug one connector in on one side, and the other on the other side, and fold the wire over. Simples and reversible if required. (I'm going to make them slightly longer, as it makes folding them easier - even though it's using flexible silicone cable, when they're short it's not quite as easy). I've also included some additional photos of the wire installed. If anyone buys my 2018+ Gaggia Classic PID kit and wants one of these cables then I'll include one free of charge IF THEYASK FOR IT. (If you've previously bought a 2018+ kit and want one then it's just £1 for 1st Class postage and packing). If anyone else who's a member on here can't make one, and wants to just buy one from me - then I can provide them at minimal cost - £2 plus postage (1st Class 70p, 2nd Class 61p!). I'm still working on a good, effective OPV mod - and I'll probably combine this timer disable mod, with a 9 bar OPV mod, and sufficient silicone pipe to properly replumb the OPV (right now they have the OPV dumping into the drip tray on currnt models, which is a crazy waste of water) within a "Fixes for the Classic 2019" combination mod kit within the next few weeks.
  3. Hi all, I have an minimally modified Gaggia Classic (2007 ish). I am still striving for espresso perfection. I prewarm the machine for >20 mins and then almost always make two coffees back to back (ca 5 mins apart; I have to keep the OH happy). I am recording and noting every possible variable for both shots, but am I going over the top for the second shot. From what I have read the temperature on the second shot will be all over the place, if that is right, what's the point? Would a PID improve the consistency of the second shot? Shot data: Bean type, roast, age, storage condition, Bean weight into grinder, Grind setting Bean weight out of grinder Distribution method Tamp force (subjective) Yield Time Crema Taste...
  4. A bit of an update on my PID kit that I've recently been working on. Whilst I'm keeping the current kit alive and kicking, and the full details of it are still here: http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?27931-MrShades-Gaggia-Classic-PID-Kit-Complete-PID-kit-with-full-guide-%A389 I've also been working on a kit that uses a PID controller that looks almost identical to the Auber one. It's 1/32DIN (rather than 1/16DIN for the Rex C100) and therefore half the size. It's half the size as it only has one display (rather than the two displays on the 1/16DIN Rex C100). It's obviously much smaller, and this kit comes with a new aluminium box - that is also a two-part box (Auber seem to use an extruded single piece box, which you can't simply assemble around the controller once you've wired it up). As with the other kit, there's a cut-out in the front (around 44mm x 22mm) and a rubber grommeted hole in the rear. As with the normal kit, all the SSRs and wires and everything else come with it - and they're all the same as the original kit. Hence there's now two options: 1. The original 1/16 DIN kit, with dual display - being a larger unit, with larger enclosure 2. This new 1/32 DIN kit, with single (dual purpose) display - being a smaller unit, with smaller enclosure As with everything, when it's smaller it's also more expensive (which is true for the PID controller and the aluminium enclosure) so this 1/32 DIN version is £5 more than the 1/16 DIN version - so it's £94 shipped to the UK. Any questions, please just ask - and I have these in stock now and if you'd like one then please just PM me. Some pics of the kit and controller: (It was cold in the workshop, and hadn't warmed up - so it's showing 14C. Obviously normally it would show the brew temp at around 93C) A couple of pics to allow you to see the difference between the 1/16 DIN (larger, dual display) and 1/32 DIN (this one, smaller and single display) versions: (Other than the fact that it doesn't say "Auber" on the front, if you can see any difference between this PID and the Auber one then let me know!) For the avoidance of doubt, and to prevent any questions - Whilst this 1/32DIN controller LOOKS like the Auber one, and many (if not all) the menu options are the same - it does NOT have the hidden Auber menus, and it does NOT provide preinfusion or any of the fancy Auber only functions. It provides materially the same functionality as the Rex C100 and controls brew and steam temp. I hope you like it! Many thanks, MrShades
  5. I thought that I would share my experiences renovating anexample of the model commonly known as the Gaggia OWC (Old White Coffee). Except that this example isn’t white, it’s afetching 80’s sludge brown colour, it is not the common Coffee model, but it iscertainly old. I got it from eBay for £10 reasoning that it would be worth itfor entertainment value alone, and it was located only seven miles from me sowhy not?The person that I bought itfrom told me that he had paid £300 for it in 1983 (equivalent to about £950nowadays). He also told me that it works fine except that it doesn’t steam.Yeah, well, we’ll see about that. There’s not much information on this model out there, but itis generally regarded as the precursor to the Classic model. After havingstripped it and fiddled with it for a few weeks I agree with some opinions thatit can be regarded as almost a Classic on steroids. It has a powerful pump,1500W heating element, OPV, large three way solenoid valve and a large boilerwith a substantial brass group casting. Downside is lack of spares. There is ageneral feeling of quality and solidity to it. Not that it’s perfect, there area few design deficiencies that I hope to address as I work on it. The serial number is 3101, possibly making it a very earlymodel. The brass group casting is slightly different from other pictures of OWCgroups posted online, suggesting that it is an even earlier casting pattern: itdoesn’t have a raised boss where the OPV mounts and has an unused, drilled andthreaded boss behind the OPV for mounting a thermostat. The boiler is larger than the later Classic type. See the photoshowing the two side by side to see how much bigger it is. OWC on the left, later boiler on the right. I'll post further details later.
  6. I know there have been a couple is pressure gauge installations described, but I thought I'd share mine. Here you go... I did it about three years ago but only very recently got round to editing the video. The machine is still going strong, giving me a pressure reading every morning.
  7. Gavin

    Group Gasket

    I've never changed the group gasket on my Classic in the last 5 years due to intermittent use. Now i'm pulling 10-15 shots a week I'm wondering if i should change it? There's no leaking but original gasket does feel a bit tough, the portafilter locks at about 5 o'clock. If i do change should I go silicone? and why? Is this the boy I might need.... https://www.bluestarcoffee.eu/gaggia-silicon-group-gasket-85mm-7455-p.asp? Advice appreciated, many thanks.
  8. Hello to all you fine coffee lovers and Merry Christmas what's left of it. Simply put I have been lurking on this forum for far too long dipping in and out of posts when I had 5 minutes spare or to try and find the reason behind my poor shot pulling abilities its a rocky road which many find themselves giving up and going the easy route, not for me I take the difficult route every time maybe for all the wrong reasons at times but anyway thats me and my little opener. Thanks to you all for your help that I have not yet thanked in my lurking days, I am here now to make amends
  9. Hello guys and gals, I have not done anything to my Classic in a while and am itching to do a mod to curb the current upgraditis urges. I liked the whole dimmer thing that I have done a few people do in the forum and I understand that the pump should be replaced for that. I know @MrShades recommends the Invensys 65W CP3A pump but since Invensys are no more, I'm not certain which one of the results that comes back on fleebay is the correct pump. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcp3a.TRS0&_nkw=cp3a&_sacat=0) Any ideas? Thanks.
  10. Have upgraded my grinder and espresso machine and am selling my beloved Gaggia Classic. It’s the gold edition made in 1998. I’ve had it for 3 years. It has the Rancio upgraded steam wand. with it is the ultra reliable Iberital MC2 grinder which has a mammoth range of grind adjustments. the grinder is 5 years old. In terms of usage, I’ve used both to make morning coffees on the weekend for my wife and I. looking for £200 for both With this combo I’ve been pretty happy and have made a “god shot” on multiple occasions. Have given both a good clean, rather annoying I used a light toothbrush on the right side and slightly scratched the plating but am pretty confident that will come out with a proper polish. I’ve tried to show that in the photos! Am based in NE London. Any questions give me a shout!
  11. OPV Adjustment for the Gaggia Classic 1. You will need a pressure gauge that has been modified to fit the bottom of the standard domestic Gaggia portafilter. (fig a) This assembly cost me less than £10 to construct and the parts were readily available. 2. Prime and warm up your machine to the normal operating temperature (At least 20 mins). 3. You’ll notice that there’s no basket in the portafilter above, false pressure readings will be given if you leave it in there. Fill the pressure gauge with water from your machine before attaching it to the head. This serves to eliminate the chances of air being trap in the portafilter and primes your machine for the first test. 4. Switch the pump on. As the pressure rises open the steam valve a little, this will hopefully allow any remaining air out of the system. Once you have a steady stream of water from the steam wand close it and allow the pressure to build until it settles. If you’ve never adjusted your OPV before you’ll probably looking at around 14 bar of pressure. These machines are shipped at this pressure for use with pods so if you do use pods don’t touch a thing. Make a note of your reading and switch off the pump. 5. SWITCH THE POWER OFF AT THE WALL AND REMOVE THE PLUG FOR ABSOLUTE PEACE OF MIND. 6. Remove the two screws from the rear of the top plate and lift away. There is an earth wire attached to the cover, remove it but do not forget to replace it on reassembly. 7. It’s hot in there, be careful. Part of the reason for having the machine warm is that it comes apart a lot easier. Locate the OPV (fig b) (fig b) OPV valve Remove the pipe and put it to one side out of the way. (fig c)[/center] (fig c) OPV pipe removed Using a ratchet wrench, extension and 17mm head remove the top of the OPV. I have specified the tool because I have read of people attempting this with spanners or adjustable spanner even pliers. This is a really bad idea. Like I said it’s hot and you will inevitable burn yourself. At best a spanner will slip and you may damage something else such as your solenoid. Once the top of the OPV is removed you will see a small 5mm (3/16) hex head inside. It can be difficult to see sometimes as there will be water on top of it, but trust me it’s there. (fig d 1 and 2) (fig d 1) OPV, 5 mm hex head revealed Insert a 5mm (3/16) Allen key in the hole and turn it anti clockwise approximately 270° or three quarters of a turn. Reassemble your machine in reverse order. Don’t forget that earth wire and re test the pressure. 8. This is known as a static pressure test which means there’s no flow through the portafilter. The pressure you should be aiming for is 10 bar not 9 bar. This is because the difference between a static reading of 9 bar and a dynamic reading i.e. with flow through the head is 1 bar less. Therefore you need to set your machines to 10 bar which will give you 9 bar dynamic. Here's a video of the gauge in action (at this point it's reading 9 bar instead of 10 bar) 9. You will need to repeat this a few times to get it right but it’s worth it IMHO. I am pulling vastly improved shots with much better crema. Disclaimer: I can not be held responsible for any damage that may invalidate any warranty. You should only attempt this adjustment if you know what you are doing and have the right tools to do it. If you do not feel in any way confident then leave it alone.
  12. Hi peeps My trusty old Gaggia Classic has been playing up and not drawing properly, so I've taken it apart and cleaned out all the usual places, including stripping open the boiler to clean inside there. It worked briefly afterwards and has then started to trickle through. So presumably there's been a blockage somewhere. I then left it for several months and finally took another look today only to find loads of gunk inside and mould in the 2 tubes that go into the water reservoir. I've 2 questions. Where can I get replacement rubber tubing for those? How can I clean inside the Elka pump (see photo), as that's the last place I've yet been able to clean? Actually, a 3rd question. Is there anywhere else I should clean that I've not found yet (have cleaned inside the boiler, group head, shower plate, solenoid valve)? Thanks in advance folks Dan
  13. Hi, Does anyone have a portafilter for a Gaggia Viva or Cubika machine,as the one my wife has has cracked, Cheers
  14. Naked Portafilter has (I believe) a triple shot basket, good condition with normal scuffs around the lugs - £15 posted Double Spouted Portafilter with double gaggia basket and plastic screw off spout - £12 posted Thanks!
  15. I recently found that the KitchenAid Artisan espresso machines used mainly Gaggia Classic parts inside and that they were dual boiler so I managed to pick one up from Ebay at £41 in a nice fetching "Medallion Silver" finish. It would be a great starting point for a project. I did have in mind re-casing the whole project but the KA casing is in fantastic condition and does look a lot better on the counter-top that it does in photographs. Anyway, It all worked absolutely fine on testing and produced a decent espresso. The steam boiler I could hear a slight hiss from and upon inspection noticed a little weeping between the top/bottom boiler sections. The plan is to completely strip, clean, re-seal and rebuild the boilers, 3 way solenoids, OPV etc. Clean up the casing and framework. Add all the Arduino gubbins. Features/Mods: 1. I've already modified a V1/V2 Silvia wand by cutting and welding the "ball joint" section from the old wand onto the Silvia wand - So now it articulates! 2. Arduino controlled PID's with PT100 sensors and SSR's. I'll program the steam boiler to go into Idle mode after 5 mins of no activity and reduce temp to save the seals. 3. An SSR to PWM the pump so I can add pre-infusion and possible pressure profiling at a later date. 4. Volumetric flowmeter so I can switch between volumetric shots, time-based, or manual 5. Possibly add pressure sensors for boiler pressures (and brewhead pressure if I can figure out how) 6. Will add other features like On/off for service boiler, descale/backflush programs, steam boiler auto-refill etc 7. Remove the two useless temp gauges and replace them with OLED displays 8. Original switch gear will be replaced, possibly a d-pad/joystick type for scrolling through menus Photos of the machine in it's various stages of disassembly below: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1B3v_CZkXpclEsZ6LjCiI0q16ndA4oxRd Any ideas of features that I've missed or would be a good addition please let me know. Any information of any kind would also be appreciated, always good to ehar other people's experiences of similar projects. Cheers, Kev.
  16. Hey everyone, I got myself a Dedica and a second-hand 90's Gaggia MDF i could afford - basic as it is, it's a major step up from the Nespresso capsules.- The MDF has about 12g of retention in the path, however, and some more in the dozer - and i didn't want to get yesterday's grind every time so i modded it heavily; the dozer has been removed, as well as the portafilter holder (because the Dedica's portafilter is too big to fit there) i made the 'stepless' conversion and calibrated the height i'm using the top of a PET bottle to get the coffee out on-demand (plus a small spoon to clear the cofee-path) It's spartan. It's ugly. It works and makes a pretty decent cup. It's noisy as all hell, though, and that's beginning to be a problem. It's also strange to me that my espresso grind needs to be on '1' to get ~25s extraction but maybe that's normal? Would you get rid of the MDF? Revert it to its original state and solve the retention another way? Maybe you just have a recommendation for a quiet grinder with good value for money? Thanks in advance!
  17. Hello All, I've been looking for a shallow drip tray or my classic and have come across this: http://www.gaggia.uk.com/caffeshop.htm#!/Stainless-Steel-Metal-Drip-Tray-for-Classic/p/65656223/category=3540309 I like that it's stainless and slim enough so I can just about fit a normal mug under the portafilter. Does anyone have experience of these and offer any alternative?
  18. Hey guys! I have a Gaggia Classic bought in 2016 from the UK. It should be 9403/11. I have a double basket but I don't know whether it is a 14g or 16g basket. Mine has a ridge on the vertical side. I have been dosing 17-18g and flow seems okay, but the taste is bitter. The following video at 4:10 shows of the two baskets. Some images of the basket I have. From left, Gaggia Pressurized Single, Gaggia Pressurized Double, and Gaggia Commercial non-pressurized double Coffee that comes out with the lack of crema. Looks like overextracted with 17-18g? Thanks in advance!
  19. Hi All, A few months ago I bought a Gaggia Classic (2008 Italian made model) on Ebay. The goal is just to keep keep it at work and kick the expensive daily latte habit off one of those mobile vans. I don't want to bring it to work until I can reliably make a decent latte. I'm not likely to start drinking espresso shots plain (I'd never say never but not likely) so just a decent shot for a mixed drink is fine. I cannot use this machine. I have made and dumped down the sink a hundred shots. I bought a new shower screen. The portafilter basket it came with had clearly had a hard life (it was black and I couldn't clean it so I replaced it). The machine came with the plastic Gaggia tamper. I thought that might be my issue so I bought a metal one. I am getting blonding in about 5-6 seconds. A 25 second pour would be a sour and watery mess (I tasted it just to see but it was vile.) I'm letting it heat up for 20ish minutes before first use. I did clean the group head with calputty and back flush. I haven't descaled it yet but I have the Gaggia descaler to do when I get time but I'm not sure that's really going to be my issue. I can't see any channelling in my pucks. They come out solid and don't seem to have any channels around the edge of the basket. Sometimes there is water on the surface of the puck when I remove the portafilter from the group-head but always. I have tried to move around from 14G to 18G in a double basket and this is not pressurised version. I don't yet have my own grinder but I did get a bag of beans from a local well regarded "artisan" coffee roaster and have them grind them for me the day before I got the machine so at least at first the beans were fresh. I have a Starbucks Barista grinder bought, just waiting for it to ship so I can do the mod and grind my own beans but I'm finding it hard to believe that the grounds are the sole issue in a shot so bad and fast it's literally not fit to water plants with. So anyone got any ideas what's going wrong or where I should go next? My bathroom scale is a fancy glass one so the only thing I haven't done is figure out how many psi I'm tamping with as I think it would break my scale/my scale wouldn't work for that anyway due to how it works. Again I'll get my own grinder set up with a new bag of those same beans when it gets here and I clean and adjust it, but I just want a head start of what else to do while I wait. For reference it won't work with Lavazza espresso either which some people from what I've read on forums are quite ok with for a bog standard shot for lattes etc. Is there anything about the machine that could be malfunctioning that could contribute to this and is a descale likely to help? Do I need to dial the pressure back on the OVI (right acroynmy?) because the machine didn't come with the pressurised black plug thing it would have been designed for originally (It's lost so I don't know if it works better with that or not and really I don't want to do pressurised shots so would rather get it working the way I want if possible.) Thanks for any help!
  20. This is my 2nd Gaggia refurb. I detailed the first one here. For $65 CAD shipped to my door, there was no way I was going to turn this one down. I assumed it needed some love by the description of "it turns on and the the water heats up, but that's about it". It has the exact same internals as the Classic. Here it is, unpacked and ready to see what's wrong with it. Popping off the shower screen, it was pretty obvious why this machine wasn't doing anything. The holes in the shower plate were also clogged quite bad. All things considered, the boiler wasn't too bad. After a some scrubbing with small wire and brass brushes, a few cafiza and citric acid baths, most of the parts cleaned up nice. By hand, I used a 4mm drill bit to unclog the ingress and egress water holes on the group head. They were still plenty clogged. Now onto the over pressure valve. Unlike the classics that have a hex hole on the adjustment nut, this one required a set of needle nose pliers tips to fit into the outer sides of the nut. It was also seized quite bad and required several applications of penetrating fluid and some heat. This was probably the most stubborn part to deal with in the teardown. With everything cleaned up and now moving, I got it all back together and calibrated the over pressure valve. It was during the OPV calibration that I realized I had another problem to deal with. The integrated drain tube in the plastic housing was clogged quite badly which wasn't letting the water drain. This caused the pressurized water to spray everywhere instead of being sent down the integrated tube and out the front of the machine like it's supposed to. I didn't take any pictures of the unclogging process, but I had to take the whole shell apart and the unclog the drain pipe, which probably took about an hour of jabbing at it with a cut off wire coat hanger and some drill bits. The dried up coffee stuck in that thing was like cement. And now for a little sample of the machine running like it should. https://streamable.com/lvb6e This machine is going to live at my parents place, as my father has been quite envious of the quality of coffee coming out of my Classic. Now they can enjoy the same!
  21. I've finally completed the install of the REX C-100 PID on my Gaggia Classic 2019. The OPV mod made my shots drinkable, this PID mod made my shots enjoyable. I must say I've noticed huge improvement in the cup. Coffee taste is much more balanced and I have more control over it. I was not able to find proper PID settings online. I've done some experimentation and found settings that would allow for aggressive overshoot upon temperature drop, so the boiler would act a bit like a heat exchanger during brewing. More pictures and PID settings: https://yirga.pl/gaggia-classic-2019-pid-rex-c100
  22. I've developed these sensors to augment PIDs that are using K thermocouples. Using the Pt100 gives you greater accuracy and access to 0.1c resolution on most PIDs (certainly on the Rex C100). They are 3 wire devices for improved accuracy and are set inside brass M4 bolts with thermal paste and thermal adhesive. The Auber ones have very delicate wires and delicate / fragile connections - using more robust high temp wire and shrink wrap will hopefully make these easier to work with and less fragile. They're not easy for me to make - and just wanted to do it to see if I could, but am willing to make a few to help fellow owners out. Sold with a small brass M4 washer, bagged and including UK postage for £17 (with payment via PayPal Friends and Family or bank transfer, or any other method that means I don't get hit with charges). (If you're a member on here, and would like International Shipping, then I'm willing to do so at cost - and at your risk - so if it goes missing somewhere in Eastern Europe or Japan or the US, and you've not elected for an insured delivery option then it's your loss, not mine. Contact me via PM if you'd like International Shipping quotes - and let me know whether you want cheap/cheerful or fully insured / tracked / traced, etc.). [uPDATE 17th Dec 2014] I've now gone into "production" on a V2 of these sensors, and not that the build quality on the earlier ones was bad at all - but these are better. I've got 'a few' of them - so stock currently isn't a problem, and I don't see it being a problem in the foreseeable future... so if you want one then please just PM me and I'll send you payment details, etc. These new units are now 750mm leads (which I may well change to 500mm for the next batch - as I think 750mm is still a bit too long... but the Auber ones are only about 450mm which fits/reaches but is slightly too short for my liking. For the record, these sensors are: - Pt100 - Class A - Mounted in an M4 screw thread, ready for simple fitting into the existing thermowell of the Gaggia boiler - Three wire (two red, one white) - 750mm lead wires, bare ends - 7/0.2mm dia silver plated copper wires - Thin PTFE sheathed in orange - OD : 2.13mm +/- 0.15mm - Pretty damn robust... and you certainly don't feel petrified when handling them or screwing them into the boiler.... like you do with some others! Anyway, here's some updated pics of the new ones.... Anyone that has ordered one in the last 5 days will be getting these in the post ASAP I've got a few bagged up and ready to go... with more waiting in the wings: Fitted: *** Update 6th April 2015 **** Just so that everyone knows the situation - I keep these in stock and aim to always have stock of them available, so don't worry about checking with me - I'll continue making them until the demand dries up or I get bored of it (and in either case I'll post on here and update). So - available and will be available until I say otherwise on here, just PM me for payment details. Thanks *** Update 4th July 2015 **** Still plenty of these in stock, but if you're considering PIDing your machine then check out my latest project: custom aluminium enclosures for the PID - with 45mmx45mm cutout, a wire hole in the back (with grommet) and even some great mounting tape to stick it to your machine. Just £20 delivered for forum members - AND NOW *** SPECIAL OFFER *** if you order a Pt100 sensor AND a case, then the case is just £18 - so sensor and case for £35 delivered See here for more: http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?25140-Aluminium-PID-enclosure-all-cutouts-ready-for-a-PID-to-slot-straight-in&p=322748#post322748 Quick photo of the case: ### Update January 2018 ### I’ve managed to maintain the original price of these for the last few years but with my costs increasing I’ve got no choice but to increase the selling price of these from £15 to £17, still inc UK postage so still providing excellent value (IMO)!
  23. It's time to sell my beloved Gaggia 'Tin Man' which is fairly identical to the La Pavoni Professional and uses pretty much the same parts as the Professional. Rumour has it they're made in the same factory and it is equivalent to a millenium/post millenium Pavoni being made after the year 2000. Overall it is in very good condition and shines up well! Included is a naked portafilter which I made myself - it's not to the same standard as a shop-bought item but for a home-made effort it does the job - I have also added a temp strip to the grouphead. I have also fitted a single-hole tip to the steam arm, this is one of the best upgrades you can do to these machines as the standard tip has 3 holes and is extremely difficult to manage. The machine was descaled a couple of months ago and hardly used since. There is no structural rust or rot under the drip tray - there's a speck of surface rust but that'll probably come away with a bit of elbow grease. The basket included is a double basket In the spirit of honesty, here are a few negligble points to note There are a couple of marks to the chromed boiler which are pictured. Due to the location of these I think its where milk has splashed onto the boiler and hasn't been cleaned off by the previous owner. When I bought the machine earlier this year, the dial for the pressure gauge was loose and had become detached from the gauge. I have since misplaced this, however between 10pm - 11pm on the gauge is around the right pressure for the machine (around 1 bar I think). A new gauge is readily available online and simply screws in. I noticed whilst cleaning it this evening that the plastic clip that attaches the base to the chassis has come loose. Again, it seems fine as it is and it's still attached to the chassis with the screw that goes into the area under the drip tray, but if the new owner wanted to, a new base is approximately £8 online I would prefer collection as these items are delicate. I won't rule out packaging up as secure as I can and posting, but I can't accept any responsibility for damage in transit i'm afraid. On the plus side, if collecting i'll demo the machine and make you a drink! I am looking for £330 collected from South Oxfordshire. I would have thought postage via Parcelforce would be around £15 but please bear in mind that this is not preferred and I can't accept liability for damage so the buyer bears the risk of this. More pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ycE53dzkHFDmQQv99
  24. I am still having problems with this machine... As I wrote in my prevoius post the machine came with defect brewing group. This was fixed. Now I have another problem - the red lights are blinking after turning on. Tried fixing it as advised in the user manual - turn off, wait, turn on- nothing. I performed the testing and everything seems ok but one - no hot water from the steam tube. Somewhere I saw that there might be air in the system and this might be the problem. or maybe the boiler is gone... but the last seems not very probable - the machine is one month old. Any ideas how to solve this problem - maybe somehow reset or de scale... Any ideas are welcome! Thanks in advance!
  25. Hello everybody, I just got a Gaggia Naviglio which I think has a problem. Unfortunatelly I cannot service and return it because I bought it from another country. So I will have to try to fix this problem with your help. The problem is as follows: When I unpacked the machine I went through the instructions at the manual and somehow the inital priming did not finish. The used coffee bin would not come out - it was blocked by the Brew Group (initially). Now I am able to make one cofee and then the door for the BG will open by itself and again the BG will not be in a neutral position (the two arrows pointing at each other). In this situation I can hardly remove the BG and the used coffee bin is again blocked. When I remove the BG and close the door and put back the bin, theere is a rotating sound ant after that I can put back the BG. The BG is just a few millimiters away from neutral position and there is a lever? pointing backwards... (pls see attached pics) And if I make a coffee somehow the BG's lower end pushes out the door to open. Sth else is interesting - there is almost no used coffee in the bin, but there is grinded coffee at the base - where the BG is inserted. Do you gyus have any ideas how to fix this issue. I am almost desparate because my wife and I love good coffee and so far every day was starting with a cup of coffee... And the old machine is gone... Any ideas are welcome plus I can answer any additional questions you might have. Thanks in advance! AT
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