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Found 19 results

  1. I've had the E8 since 08/15 and haven't used it at all for the past two years. I got a Lido E in 12/15 and took the Ceado out of service sometime towards the end of Jan 16 while intending to fit it with a arduino timer but I could never be bothered to solder all the parts together, make a custom lid for the doser and perform other modifications to make it easy and quick to use. Fast forward two years (after using the Ceado a couple of times since) and I get a Pharos which I'm very happy with. I think I should probably sell the Ceado, especially before the Niche comes out and this forum is flooded by similar grinders...but for some reason I don't want to part with it, despite knowing it's just going to sit there.... Then I realise why, and it's because in the back of my mind I've always thought about the burr carrier mounted to the motor and it being one independent unit. The E8 is the same as the E37s, just in a larger case with a doser. So I got to thinking recently, why can't I just remove the motor and create a mount for the entire thing? I could mount it on an angle to help with single dosing, fit it with a removable exit chute to clear the grinds. The entire assembly is no more than 15 cm tall and about 12/13 cm deep, with a barebones setup, and the electronics mounted into a small enclosure (capacitor, power connection etc) it could be a really compact large flat burr grinder. What I have in mind is to suspend the motor and assembly between two aluminium plates by attaching it to an axle that would allow the grinder to be tilted with a lever (to facilitate removal of grinds from the chamber and exit chute and to possibly mount it on slight angle while in use). I'm creating this thread to invite tips, input, criticism, and to put the idea out there for people who have Ceados with dosers that they might be able to convert them into something more kitchen friendly, and who knows maybe even people with the E37s and similar might think about doing the same if it's successful. I'm not sure how well Mazzers will do with this idea as I have no idea how their burr carriers and motors are built, but the Ceado's is really nice and seems safely enclosed.
  2. I know there are some clever bods on here who like an engineering challenge. Is there anyone near Preston who fancies trying to make my Santos more suitable for Espresso? I know about the stepless mod (although I still haven't done it), and I've not aligned the burrs.... and I'd assume a much bigger knob would also aid adjustability, but how good would/could it be?
  3. I'm currently in the 'collecting lots of data' part of my espresso making learning curve...... so I'm weighing, timing etc. One thing that would really make things easier for me is some sort of mechanism so that I could time my shots just by operating the lever on my ECM Mechanika pump machine. So the timer would automatically start when I put the lever to the top and it would stop when I put it down again. I've seen all sorts of complicated solutions involving electronic triggering of devices. I want a simple solution that perhaps isn't perfect though does not require the machine cover to be taken off. I was thinking something like a stop-watch type counter that only counted when the switch was pressed in - this could be mounted such that the shot lever itself pressed against the button and then released it again when put back down. With me keeping an eye on the weight of the shot, looking at the colour of the coffee coming out etc - not having to remember to stop the timer on my brewister would make things so much easier for me. BTW the brewisters auto timing modes are not suitable - they only stop timing when weight is taken off the scales, not when weight has stopped increasing. Anyone done anything remotely like this?
  4. Don't know what I was looking for but found this and thought I would share. it never ceases to amaze me how ingenious , patient and resourceful some people can be . i would clean the glass thourgly before use , plus if you're thinking of making one you might want to get a move on as Lightbulbs as we know them are due to be scrapped in about 18 months
  5. Ey folks, so after a really hard hangover i got a really cool idea that i should make my own coffee grinder So im dedicating this thread to my journey in building one i made a really really rough sketch of my idea, so here it is went with vertical flat burrs, but slowly i think this is the hardest way i could have chosen and it is kinda tough kinda still not sure how the burr adjust will be, it it would be traditional and the burrs would be horizontal that would be kinda easy (maybe thats the reason all the manufacturers are going that way ) if it will be over my current skill in doing stuff, maybe i go with conical burrs dunno but at the moment i kinda like this, it needs a lot of tweaking and measuring and doing some things i have never done, but hey ending the last year i didnt know nothing about 3d printing and stuff and now i build my own printer and doing a second one, so a grinder should be fine? :D anyway hope its ok to post these things here and would love some feedback from you guys if its possible or i just end up writing to my self for the next year or so
  6. With the hot weather I was thinking of cold brew ago. I haven't got a cold brew pot but is there an easy DIY option I could go for at home? I have a CCD, Costco Chemex and Sowdens if this helps
  7. A big ask I know, but having agreed a deal on a Royal DIY project, a change of plans mean I can't now get it from Rugby to London - I've heard promising things about the Forum Courier Squad™ so thought it was worth seeing if anyone might be able lend a hand! If anyone happens to be driving between Rugby and West London in the next couple of weeks and could help out it would be a great help in getting my project off the ground! If it helps, as many coffees as you like available upon delivery, Brewster Cafe is currently serving Foundry Rocko Mountain...
  8. I had a few offcuts from some beech countertop from a friend a while back because I thought, "hey, I can make stuff with that!" and this is the first product. I'm well versed in the arts of DIY but less so in "craftsmanship", and as such it isn't 100% what I was going for, but I'm happy enough with it that I'm not going to start again. I don't have a lathe, though would love one, so this was made with a couple of hole saws in two pieces - a base piece and a ring glued together. The finish isn't quite as pristine as I would have liked. It felt as smooth as ever after final sanding, but the varnish has highlighted some rough bits. The pad bit is leather... only the best for the Goldfinger's arse to rest on! This was another case of an old chair that was re-upholstered and thinking I could use that to make something too... it's been in the garage for years so about time. In situ, I'm now thinking a black one would have actually worked better, but meh!
  9. Because why not, plus think of all the hipster cred it will earn you.
  10. Well, not so much cheap as a free home-botched one from a tin of soup. Decentish can opener makes a nice smooth finish (although will rust in a few day I guess). Pressed a wooden spoon handle against the edge to make a spout and crimped it slightly with my fingers. Wound some gaffer-tap around it as a bit of heat protection and it's not too bad. Holds just the right amount of milk for my mug. It'll do 'till I get one. I like to play...
  11. Hello, Can anyone give my any idea how to remove the Doser off the front of the Iberital MC2 ? Please. Thanks.
  12. Hi Guys I've got myself another grinder... Mazzer Super Jolly Automatic. It's a bit grubby, but looks in pretty good condition. I think it may be a 2010 model. Serial number starts 100. It has a doser I'd like to remove, and it needs a good clean...so I've had the screwdrivers on it. I've taken a few snaps, thought it may be interesting to others. Firstly, the burrs. Got the top one out, it says Mazzer on the back, and it's kind of gun metal grey matte metal. Burrs 1. How do I know if they need replacing? 2. How do I get the lower bur out, do I use a socket to stop it from turning, whilst undoing the screws? Doser I have the doser loose, but I didn't want to cut the wires, so I looked as the base. After removing the feet, what is holding the base on? is just the security torx bolt? Can the plastic doser 'lens/window' be removed, it's needs a good clean? Any help/advise appreciated
  13. Even cheapo coffee machines have a basic water level check via a slot/window or clear plastic tank. No such feature in the case of the Silvia4. Silvia5? Not just inconvenient, its very irritating having to guess how many pulls you have left before the tank dries up. An inexcusable design oversight on an otherwise terrific machine. Numerous electronic DIY solutions abound on the web, featuring ‘push-test’ buttons or switches that light LED’s or sound buzzers. One circuit activates a water pump. Genious. Not having the required electronic skills I set about cobbling together this simple but effective fix using household junk. (see PDF download attachment) Materials: 1 x ‘uni Laknock’ push-lock ball point pen or similar. 1 x BBQ wooden skewer/spike. 1 x cork Tools: 1 x Drill bit the same diameter of the pen shaft - see (A) 1 x Pliers 1 x Rule/measure Instructions: 1. With the pliers gently ‘crush’ the clear plastic barrel holding top of pen. 2. Pull off the pocket clip and file to match radius. 3. Drill a hole in the centre of the Rancilio water tank cover the same diameter as the pen shaft. 4. Push the point of the wooden skewer firmly into the pen housing. Take care to centre. 5. Make a hole in the cork to take the skewer and slide on. The water will expand and make a tight fit. 6. Push the cork 16cm from base of water cover. 16cm will show the water level has a reserve up to the moulded cross in the base of the tank - approximately 2 cups/4 single esspresso pulls. To test: If the little pen-head sits UP and proud, you’ve got water. If it sits flush and doesn’t pop back up if you push it down, then it’s time to re-fill. PLEASE NOTE: The author accepts no responsibility if you mess up! However, if you do complete the project I guarantee it’ll be worth it. No batteries. No flashing lights... and NO more guessing.
  14. Hello! I've just joined the forum. I am an engineer in West Yorkshire and am in the process of designing and building my own espresso machine. It is a new type of machine, not a thermoblock, double boiler or HX machine. I've built one working model, and am currently working on a smarter-looking, smaller version. I'll be blogging about it as it progresses. Blog: http://www.espresso-vaporetto.com Cheers Paul Coleman
  15. Hello Chaps, I'm looking for some advice from people who have renovated their Mazzers, or any other equip for that matter. I bought an old mazzer jolly on the weekend for a really good price. It looks 10yrs old and has never been cleaned. I've stripped the machine, cleaned all the oils and smelly gunk etc.... given it a good clean and I'm ready to move onto the paint job. There are some great examples of where people have done their own sanding/painting online, but I am torn whether to go down this route or whether to get it professionally done. I've had a quote for £120 from the nearest car body shop, which seems expensive! I'm not worried too much about the later levels of painting, its more the sanding down the current unit and initial prep that looks onerous. My possible questions are: 1) Has anyone used a chemical paint stripper with success on these units? 2) Does £120 for a strip, primer and paint sound expensive if paying? 3) People who have sanded and painted, do you wish you'd paid now, and is it worth £120 to do? 4) Has anyone removed the motor? I read about having to bake in the over at 200 degrees F/100 degrees C to get the motor out? (I don't fancy doing this)
  16. ---THIS POST HAS BEEN EDITED TO REFLECT ENTIRE PROCESS AND FOR EASY READING. REPLIES TO BELOW THREAD ARE IN REFERENCE TO "original OP" QUOTED BELOW--- During restoration of a VBM machine, I was umming and arring about removing the pitting/dents the group has suffered from commercial use. I then used an abrasive polish on the group which caused scratching, I got a proper chrome polish and tried to remove these but I went straight through the chrome... this sealed the deal and I took the group off to the electro-platers to be de-chromed. The process of de-chroming, and the process to come in which I will have it re-chromed cost £30 excl VAT in total. The process I used to remove the pits - this can be achieved with a high speed home drill (mine is from tesco), some flap wheels, sanding paper/pads and some polishing mops. Where to buy these items linked below. Due to the shape of the group this process was slow, and I had 10 or so drill slips which cause another pit for me to remove. If possible mount your drill on a vice and maneuver the group, otherwise be very very careful and go slowly. Total work time on this group (for a novice, such as myself) was in the region of 8 hours. >Start with the highest grit you can, I had to start with 80 on some parts, 120 on others. I used flap wheels on a high speed drill/dremel. Be very careful, a small flap wheel held too long on one spot will create a shallow dip, distort the light and look odd when finished. >work you way through the grits, I had the following flap wheels so this is the process I followed 80>120>240>320. Perpendicular at each stage where possible to remove every last scratch. Check for scratches from the previous stage under strong light and at all angles, you want every single line gone, or you will be going back to it later. >At this stage I used medium then fine 'AHPcontour' pads, at a guess these are equivalent to about 800/1600 grit. * > I then used Autosol on a loose fold mop on a high speed drill for the next stage, going over the whole thing until I was sure there was nothing left from the previous stage, then going over a couple more times. >Then compound p175 on a loose fold mop (This is good enough for chroming but ultra fine hairline scratches can be seen at very obtuse angles) spend a long time going over and over on this stage until you are 100% sure you have covered the previous stage. * After speaking with the owner of "thepolishingshop.co.uk" (after I had already been through the process above) I was informed that his compounds are capable of polishing from 320grit. This would be achieved with 439T green compound on a close stitch colour mop followed by p164 blue with a 'G-mop' then finished with p175 yellow on a WDR loose fold. This method would not have been suitable for some of the nooks and crannies on the group, as the close stitch mops would not have reached in there. Compounds and abrasive flap wheels bought from "http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk". Absolute 5 star service, not to mention the best prices online (better than amazon in most cases), a fantastic £2 delivery option that has never taken more than 2 days, and really high quality compounds (in my admittedly limited experience). Was very responsive via email and put my mind very much at rest that I had achieved a good enough finish, a rare site that ticks every box you could want. I bought my abrasive pads from Amazon, but they are cheaper on the above link, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from there in the future. Here you see the worst pitting to the front of the group, and the dirt and oxidation from being in the de-chroming solution Here you see pitting in the top of the group after an initial polish with Autosol This image shows the pitting removed as per my process above, this is after the fine abrasive pad, and before Autosol The image below shows the front of the group after Autosol, the camera fibs quite heavily here and doesn't show the scratches that Autosol leaves. This image shows the top of the group after Autosol. You can see the scratching on the group, it is the same all over, but the camera is again lying about the rest of the group. And then after polishing with p175 The group head came back from the Electro-platers. How does it look? Well good and bad results. It looks much much better than before. But its not perfect. I read online before polishing that "Chrome is a mirror of the surface below" and this could not be more accurate, it is also a very effective mirror, much better than brass, so any imperfections not only show up but show up very well. Polishing is not just about 'painting by numbers', although that will get you so far, there is obviously a nuance and an expert understanding of the processes involved that mean you are unlikely to get perfect results on your first try and a thing like this. All that said, I am very happy with the job I have done, and the group looks so much better than before. For those interested, the Electro-Platers said they would charge about £60 for polishing, which would have been £90 in total. I have no idea how good a job they would have done in comparison to myself. Here is the finished article This is the pitting I was removing, it's still there albeit much less. I did not notice this at all in the brass, and was pretty surprised to see it in the chrome. Just goes to show how good of a mirror the chrome is.
  17. So after a long time of having my Silvia v3 (I think it's been over 5 years). I think it's finally time that I should mod my Silvia with a PID that I had originally meant to do when I received it. The auber pid is a bit too expensive and have been searching around at some DIY alternatives and installation guides: , Auber Kit install instructions PID on silvia DIY PID and Steam Brew However, I have a few questions and a parts list before ordering my first few parts if anyone can help out. So the parts I think I need are: PID Temperature Controller Solid State Relay (x2 if you want steam) Temperature probe (usually K-Type or RTD) Wires and connectors Thermal Paste Optional Project Box or Enclosure if external install Optional Insulation on Boiler for temperature stability or internal install The Temperature Controller I've been looking around, and the one people are using most are the REX C100. This is great, however I wanted an external installation located in the same place an Auber PID is. I can't imagine what the REX C100 would look like there, I think it would be too big and might start to impede on cup space. So I was looking into 1/32 DIN size PIDs. And stumbled onto the XMT 7100 at GearBest. Someone here has used this successfully for the brew control, but not steam. Upon looking at the XMT 7100 docs it looks like I can only set one alarm (AL1, AH1). I believe this means it can only control 1 temperature (brew). And to control steam also, I would need a PID that can set two alarms (AL1 AH1 + AL2 AH2). This is my guess as you can wire it up in a few modes, can anyone confirm this? Does anyone know a 1/32 DIN model (preferably cheap) that can set both brew and steam temperatures? Note: I also saw the N2006P on ebay that someone else has used on the forum, but I've only seen people use it for brew PID. Parts List So I think these are the parts I might buy:(I bought a bit longer cable and more connectors than I needed for this install incase I wanted to PID my friends Gaggia at a later date). 1x Pid 1/32: http://www.gearbest.com/development-boards/pp_47012.html?wid=21 £13.56 1x SSR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SSR-25VA-AC-Output-24-380V-25A-Solid-State-Relay-for-PID-Temperature-Controller-/322059079978?hash=item4afc37912a:g:h3YAAOSwZd1Ve6vY £3.09 Project box: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/aluminium-box-12-lf13p (Should fit, might be tight, but worth a try at the price). £0.45 Temperature Probe (RTD PT100 for m4 nut) from forum: http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?20110-Gaggia-Silvia-Pt100-RTD-sensor-for-PID £15 Piggy Back, Fork And Spade Connectors (200): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200pc-Assorted-Terminal-Crimp-Connector-Spade-Set-Box-WITH-PIGGY-BACK-/182309516089?hash=item2a727e7339:g:4wkAAOxyTyBSVHqK £5.30 14 AWG wire http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stranded-Automotive-Equipment-Wire-Hookup-Cable-14AWG-16AWG-18AWG-22AWG-/262256456691?var=&hash=item3d0fb3f3f3:m:moZXNbEUAtER1aqIKGrYJbw 5m = £3.79 24 AWG wire http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24AWG-Silicone-Wire-Cable-All-Colours-and-Sizes-/281779322997?var=&hash=item419b5b4075:m:mrijirZ6CUsxMSRfkJLPXzA 5m = £2.45 Total: £43.64 Can anyone here confirm that these parts will currently work for a Brew PID? Or have any alternative parts as suggestions?
  18. A place to post a simple picture of or few words about something you built, moded or brought back to life today. As a huge fan of the "Postie thread" (http://coffeeforums.co.uk/showthread.php?10791-What-did-the-Postie-bring-you-today) and just as huge a fan of DIY - I thought I would see if this would stick. (As cool as Posties are, making it yourself is even cooler, no?) Preferably coffee related but anything cool will do. Doesn't matter if it's simple, complex, been done a thousand times before, all fair game.
  19. I need a millennium pavoni europiccola portafilter & basket, but will want to convert it to bottomless. I was going to order the individual parts, rather than a complete unit. That way I don't need to spout and it saves some money compared to the unit as a whole. I am trying to work out if I need to bother with the spring clip. I also think it may be possible to make my own handle. My question is: If I drill out the portafilter, will it make the clip superfluous? I have no idea where the spring clip fit into the portafilter, is it at the top or bottom and the fitting gets drilled out with the DIY bottomless mod?
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