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Thread: Buying a classic, does and donts

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gaggiamanualservice.com View Post
    If it's mineral water you will have issues.
    Hi mate.

    I see you often state this about minerals, could you inform me as to which minerals your are concerned with so I can make a better choice.
    ​Always give the hardest job to the laziest person because they will always find the easiest way to do it.

  2. #22
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    Is the sainsburys equivalent of ashbeck okay to use?

  3. #23
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    Yike!... It sounds as if one should not put water into the Classic... What are the alternatives?... Wouldn’t a regular descaling allow you to us water again?...

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jh297 View Post
    Is the sainsburys equivalent of ashbeck okay to use?
    What's the mineral content?
    While the majority of mineral waters are no better (or possibly worse) for your machine than your tap water, there are a few which are fine.
    Laissez les bons temps rouler

  5. #25
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    Without getting into the complicated stuff about which mineral and what pH makes the best coffee, what we seem to be talking about here is whether or not the water will scale up the machine internals. What it all boils down to (SCNR!) is how hard the water is (tap or bottle). If you live in an area with soft water mains, crack on and use tap water, assuming you like the taste. Is your kettle constantly getting scaled up? Then you live in a hard water area and you would be wise to either treat your water to reduce hardness, (eg with a reverse osmosis system perhaps) or use bottled water with a known low hardness. It's not a case of "tap is bad, bottled is good". More likely the other way round for many reasons, including environmental. But what counts is how hard each water is, not whether it came in a bottle or not. Many 'mineral' waters, as the name suggests, are full of minerals and far too hard.

    You're basically looking for a TDS (total dissolved solids) of (very roughly) 90-130 ppm (mg/l). This is often also shown as "Dry residue at 180°C" on bottle labels. That is below the threshold where serious scale builds up, but not so low that the coffee won't extract, or that it will try to leach metals from the boiler surface. There is a lot more to it in terms of calcium vs magnesium, pH, and other minerals. These are discussed at great length on the other threads about water if you search the forum.

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