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Thread: Help with anti vac valve removal

  1. #11
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    Thanks for the advice. That's really helpful. So I will remove the cap for safety valve and get a new generic one. Although I will have to rearrange the piping so there are no open ends.

    I might keep the cap on the anti vac valve but still want to see its state underneath. Is the long nose grip mentioned above the best tool to get the clips off.

    And while I'm ordering the two valves potentially is there any other service parts I should order also?
    Sage Duo Temp - La Cimbali 6/S A 64mm flat burr + numerous projects: Sunbeam, Ascaso, Gaggia

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by M_H_S View Post
    Thanks for the advice. That's really helpful. So I will remove the cap for safety valve and get a new generic one. Although I will have to rearrange the piping so there are no open ends.

    I might keep the cap on the anti vac valve but still want to see its state underneath. Is the long nose grip mentioned above the best tool to get the clips off.

    And while I'm ordering the two valves potentially is there any other service parts I should order also?
    I've used standard pliers & water pump pliers before but they can slip if you're not careful.
    Standard mole grips may work but I only had the needle nosed ones in my tool box so that's what I used most of the time (access can be tight sometimes in washing machines).
    Laissez les bons temps rouler

  3. #13
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    Thanks
    Sage Duo Temp - La Cimbali 6/S A 64mm flat burr + numerous projects: Sunbeam, Ascaso, Gaggia

  4. #14
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    So I got the two rubber caps off. The anti vac valve looks black. I think I'd like to change both valves.

    When I try to unfasten either they are jammed solid. The boiler moves and I don't want to break anything. Even the whole machine moved.

    Any ideas how to budge these?
    Sage Duo Temp - La Cimbali 6/S A 64mm flat burr + numerous projects: Sunbeam, Ascaso, Gaggia

  5. #15
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    Now I can see both components properly, the one in the middle is the safety valve, the one on the right doesn't look like any vacuum breaker I have ever seen, the bottom half yes, the top bit looks like someone put some stuff on it to stop it leaking? Whatever it doesn't look right at all. Get a more conventional safety valve and vacuum breaker for a replacement. You are correct when you state both should be replaced.

    If you try and remove those in the way that you have where the boiler and machine are moving, you will break something! That boiler needs a great deal of support with something like a band wrench so that it cannot twist at all. Use a metal one that grips (it's effectively a metal oil filter wrench) because the inner steel band has teeth that dig in. Use an impact driver for removal, if you don't have one, then an open ended spanner and tap it repeatedly with a hammer on the end to undo it, short sharp taps. If this doesn't work and it probably won't the bastards have (as usual) used a liberal application of very strong thread locker (there are different food safe strengths and you may have to heat with a blowtorch to degrade the thread locker., Obviously shield or remove the level probe if you do this. If the boiler is nickel plated copper, there is always a risk that the boiler threaded fitting itself will fracture at the braze point. You might well find it's better to remove the boiler to get those off.

    One day the manufacturers might stop using inappropriate thread-lockers and change to PTFE tape, or low strength lockers/fillers on components which require removal/replacement at regular intervals. When fitting new components, use PTFE tape (about 7 turns), not thread-locker
    ACS Vesuvius DBPP, Izzo Duetto DB, Minima DB, Lelit Bianca Prototype DB (paddle flow control) BTC Machines: Roasters: Amazon Dalian 1kg Drum Roaster, other failed roasters: Grinders: Ceado E92, Niche US and UK: 145kg assorted greens: My reviews at https://coffeeequipmentreviews.wordpress.com/

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    Dave , it looks like someone has removed the original vac breaker pin and replaced it with a stud / bolt and a bridge shaped washer to permanently seal the valve ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by El carajillo View Post
    Dave , it looks like someone has removed the original vac breaker pin and replaced it with a stud / bolt and a bridge shaped washer to permanently seal the valve ??
    Yeah, I didn't want to say that for fear of upsetting the OP, but that's exactly what it looks like. Makes you wonder what else has been bodged.
    ACS Vesuvius DBPP, Izzo Duetto DB, Minima DB, Lelit Bianca Prototype DB (paddle flow control) BTC Machines: Roasters: Amazon Dalian 1kg Drum Roaster, other failed roasters: Grinders: Ceado E92, Niche US and UK: 145kg assorted greens: My reviews at https://coffeeequipmentreviews.wordpress.com/

  8. #18
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    No offense possible as it was bought as project/upgrade. So only trying to undo any bodges.

    I am not sure if the anti vac is permenantly sealed as the top bit still moves up and down.

    Quote Originally Posted by DavecUK View Post
    Yeah, I didn't want to say that for fear of upsetting the OP, but that's exactly what it looks like. Makes you wonder what else has been bodged.
    Sage Duo Temp - La Cimbali 6/S A 64mm flat burr + numerous projects: Sunbeam, Ascaso, Gaggia

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by M_H_S View Post
    No offense possible as it was bought as project/upgrade. So only trying to undo any bodges.

    I am not sure if the anti vac is permenantly sealed as the top bit still moves up and down.
    I've not seen one like that before....but I would certainly put a more conventional one on.
    ACS Vesuvius DBPP, Izzo Duetto DB, Minima DB, Lelit Bianca Prototype DB (paddle flow control) BTC Machines: Roasters: Amazon Dalian 1kg Drum Roaster, other failed roasters: Grinders: Ceado E92, Niche US and UK: 145kg assorted greens: My reviews at https://coffeeequipmentreviews.wordpress.com/

  10. #20
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    Really grateful for the detailed advice Dave. Need to source some of these tools especially the one to grip the boiler.
    Quote Originally Posted by DavecUK View Post
    Now I can see both components properly, the one in the middle is the safety valve, the one on the right doesn't look like any vacuum breaker I have ever seen, the bottom half yes, the top bit looks like someone put some stuff on it to stop it leaking? Whatever it doesn't look right at all. Get a more conventional safety valve and vacuum breaker for a replacement. You are correct when you state both should be replaced.

    If you try and remove those in the way that you have where the boiler and machine are moving, you will break something! That boiler needs a great deal of support with something like a band wrench so that it cannot twist at all. Use a metal one that grips (it's effectively a metal oil filter wrench) because the inner steel band has teeth that dig in. Use an impact driver for removal, if you don't have one, then an open ended spanner and tap it repeatedly with a hammer on the end to undo it, short sharp taps. If this doesn't work and it probably won't the bastards have (as usual) used a liberal application of very strong thread locker (there are different food safe strengths and you may have to heat with a blowtorch to degrade the thread locker., Obviously shield or remove the level probe if you do this. If the boiler is nickel plated copper, there is always a risk that the boiler threaded fitting itself will fracture at the braze point. You might well find it's better to remove the boiler to get those off.

    One day the manufacturers might stop using inappropriate thread-lockers and change to PTFE tape, or low strength lockers/fillers on components which require removal/replacement at regular intervals. When fitting new components, use PTFE tape (about 7 turns), not thread-locker
    Sage Duo Temp - La Cimbali 6/S A 64mm flat burr + numerous projects: Sunbeam, Ascaso, Gaggia

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