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Thread: ECM Mechanika Boiler Temp

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by richwade80 View Post
    Just an update on this.

    The machine is fine. Itís the Barista which is the problem... sort of.

    I researched milk temperatures on the forum and figured out I was steaming for too long. The temperature on the thermometer rises quite a lot after steaming has finished.

    I needed to Ďpull out soonerí so to speak. I now stop at around 120F

    The thing that was confusing is that using the same pitcher and thermometer on a Gaggia Classic resulted in a cooler drink. I expect that steaming/heating probably took longer on the classic, (and I used to make larger drinks) so probably less apparent gain in temperature after steaming.
    By all means, keep the thermometer if you want, but also train your hand to know when to stop by temperature. For instance, hold the pitcher and keep your fingers touching the lower side or bottom of the jug. When it feels too hot to touch, close the steam tap. Clean it with a wet cloth, tap tap the jug, swirl a few times and pour.

    I find milk thermometers just get on the way. Itís a good aid, but in my case I used it a couple of times and find that my own on skin sensors are more practical and more responsive than the mechanical one.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jony View Post
    I think I am at 60c so you are at 48c that's not hot, I have I have always used finger temp, I'm done in <15 seconds give or take for 80 grams 3 half oz of milk. How much milk you using. and what milk
    I stop at 120 and it keeps going on the counter to about 140 to 150! So maybe we arenít so far apart in the end.

    I use full fat Waitrose organic tree hugging mega expensive milk. I donít know how much exactly (120ml I guess). Takes probably 40s though with standard two hole wand.

    I imagine using your hand is like having your fingerprints burnt off.
    2000 - Krups Vivo + Whittard hand grinder
    2010 - Gaggia Classic + Iberital MC2
    2017 - ECM Mechanika IV Profi + Niche Zero
    Aeropress / V60 / Puck Puck / CafetiŤre / Moka Pot / Ibrik (كـَنـَكـَة)

  3. #23
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    You get your fingers burnt just once - then you always know when to stop.....!

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by richwade80 View Post
    I stop at 120 and it keeps going on the counter to about 140 to 150! So maybe we arenít so far apart in the end.

    I use full fat Waitrose organic tree hugging mega expensive milk. I donít know how much exactly (120ml I guess). Takes probably 40s though with standard two hole wand.

    I imagine using your hand is like having your fingerprints burnt off.
    When I view my last post on Tapatalk it doesnít show up. Hopefully this will show it properly. The website is fine.
    2000 - Krups Vivo + Whittard hand grinder
    2010 - Gaggia Classic + Iberital MC2
    2017 - ECM Mechanika IV Profi + Niche Zero
    Aeropress / V60 / Puck Puck / CafetiŤre / Moka Pot / Ibrik (كـَنـَكـَة)

  5. #25
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    I used to use the plam if my hand on the bottom of the jug to judge temp..and got good results. I decided to stop as the skin on my palm started peeling!!
    Now use a temptag tri sticker...which works well and is less painful.
    So be careful...

  6. #26
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    Update on this.

    I ditched my milk thermometer and now just burn myself to know when to stop. The result is a far nicer cup, which I hold with bandaged hands...

    I also got a group thermometer. To my surprise, the group does seem to run hot. It would get to 97 or probably 98 if left long enough.

    To cool this down to 94 or so, Iíve found that youíd have to do something significant - basically make a drink to drop the resting temp by 2 degrees.

    The flush and go method is confusing, as it doesnít appear to make much difference, with a short flush at least.

    If the group is at 96 before the cooling flush (to the end of flash boiling), the temp spikes by about 2 degrees before dropping, but only back to where it was really. The temp during the shot is also then 2 degrees higher, but does fall by 1 degree during the length of the shot.

    If the group is at 92 (my current preferred spot) then you get a shorter flush to the end of flash boiling. The performance is similar though. The temp during the shot would be 94 to 93.

    So it seems that machine does run hot to me. This would be okay if plumbed in, but is a pain if on your on bottles.

    Itís okay if you catch the machine at the right temp while itís heating up.

    Iíve copied the graphs from the other thread here in case itís useful.















    2000 - Krups Vivo + Whittard hand grinder
    2010 - Gaggia Classic + Iberital MC2
    2017 - ECM Mechanika IV Profi + Niche Zero
    Aeropress / V60 / Puck Puck / CafetiŤre / Moka Pot / Ibrik (كـَنـَكـَة)

  7. #27
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    Hey Rich - nice to see you getting scientific with brew temp on your HX ;-)

    My experience was that the group should run hotter at idle than brew as yours is - up to 98 or more after a long idle.

    This was to warm the cooler brew water after a flush. After a long idle I would need a slightly longer flush especially for darker roasts

    For me it was only from 3rd shot onwards that group head temp at idle was less than desired brew temp at which point I moved to no flush and let the heat of the super heated water in the HX actually warm the group head during the shot - so the thermal effect was reversed.
    Sage DB - BWT Bestmax - Niche in Black. Aeropress and Aergrind

    Live and Let Live

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by kennyboy993 View Post
    Hey Rich - nice to see you getting scientific with brew temp on your HX ;-)

    My experience was that the group should run hotter at idle than brew as yours is - up to 98 or more after a long idle.

    This was to warm the cooler brew water after a flush. After a long idle I would need a slightly longer flush especially for darker roasts

    For me it was only from 3rd shot onwards that group head temp at idle was less than desired brew temp at which point I moved to no flush and let the heat of the super heated water in the HX actually warm the group head during the shot - so the thermal effect was reversed.
    Thanks Kenny

    I will consider deciphering what you just wrote over a few pints and a bottle of wine.

    Thereís always something to learn. Itís why I like this hobby more than most others.
    2000 - Krups Vivo + Whittard hand grinder
    2010 - Gaggia Classic + Iberital MC2
    2017 - ECM Mechanika IV Profi + Niche Zero
    Aeropress / V60 / Puck Puck / CafetiŤre / Moka Pot / Ibrik (كـَنـَكـَة)

  9. #29
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    Ha yeah sorry buddy - just reread it and itís one of those that definitely makes sense...... to the writer!
    Sage DB - BWT Bestmax - Niche in Black. Aeropress and Aergrind

    Live and Let Live

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