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Rob1

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Rob1 last won the day on October 16 2020

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  1. Can't edit anymore. Can make a new post though. So while my code works with the phidget it will not work from Artisan because Artisan takes control of the Phidgets attached so my python scripts can't take control of the phidget. What should be possible is for code to be written as above that outputs via the 5v pin on the rPI (or another board). It should be possible to run the script from within artisan as a program via the call program function. For some reason the scripts don't all run even though they're essentially the same and the artisan command is the same, I can only assume
  2. The water Cuprajake is using is RODI water with added potassium bicarbonate, so it can't scale because there's no hardness. Bottled water is different as there will be hardness present and it will concentrate to the point scaling will occur when the service boiler is used as you evaporate water as steam and leave the minerals present behind. I got into the habit of turning the machine on before bed to let it auto-fill so it didn't do it when it came on in the morning. This is something you could easily put into a timer too.
  3. The Gene naturally switches so slowly the temp drops by about 3-5c and it cycles like that. The issue with it running at full power was the temperature gradient in the drum meant the beans falling close to the heat source would get burned so the ones furthest away would keep roasting. By rapidly turning on and off a few times a second the heating element woudln't reach the same high temps as if it was powered all the time so it's similar to using a dimmer. The best way would be to use a proportional control (either burst fire or phase angle) rather than a standard zero crossing or random turn-
  4. I thought you were building your own air roaster?
  5. You might be right, I've not seen any data collected on the subject that would allow anyone to say definitively why people are buying one grinder or another. People might buy "an espresso machine" on the basis that it pump water through a basket of finely ground coffee rather than think in terms of HX Vs DB Vs Single boiler Vs Thermojet, E61 Vs Ring Vs Saturated Vs Passively Heated Vs Actively heated, PID Vs Thermostat etc etc and they might just look for the cheapest machine they can find that meets a certain standard without thinking about what will suit them best.
  6. I doesn't make any sense comparing to the Niche because you wouldn't buy one instead of the other. Unless your criteria is so vague that it's just a matter of finding "a grinder", or in this case maybe one designed for single dosing. If it's really all about single dose vs hopper you're right that until now the Niche was the only thing designed for it in the price range and now there's another option, but comparing flats to conicals is in this context as one as an alternative to the other doesn't make sense. If the G-whatever was £500 and the Niche £300 you wouldn't buy the Niche if you wanted
  7. Buy 4 Niche. Sell 3 on ebay. Buy 1 solo, keep 1 Niche. Profit. In all seriousness I don't condone that.
  8. I like the way the Niche looks. Solo looks awful to me. I'd judge it on performance though, like anything else. If it's well aligned, got a good motor and can fit good burrs in there it'll be a great little grinder. I wonder how it compares to the Lagom.
  9. I think the Phidgets out 1100 (5v digital IO) has a duty cycle between 1 and 0, 1 being fully on and 0 being off. Problems is 1 is not 1 second it is 20ms i.e 1 cycle at 50hz, so with a zero crossing SSR the resolution is either half cycle or full cycle. I'm looking in to how accurate that is and if I can change that now. An alternative is to refine the code so duty cycle is set to 1 for x time and test that. EDIT: So the PWM frequency of the 15625 hz. I've changed it to its minimum of 100hz. Output is PWM enabled. Probably the best thing to do is as I said above, set the duty cycle
  10. I'd say best used on anything up to a medium-dark roast but if you're getting into second crack maybe not so useful.
  11. Probably wrong unfortunately, yes. A "hardness setting" will be somewhat vague as hardness is only one side of the coin.
  12. I've had best results from a few seconds at a high flow rate (up to 4 seconds) and then decreasing right down. This quickly fills head space but decreases flow rate before pressure really builds resulting in a really slow ramp up to 4 bar and beyond. Usually by about 12 seconds into the shot I increase flow rate to max and let it run like that until half way through the shot when I start decreasing again. Timing would depend beading for the first increase and on flow rate into the cup for the decline; the aim of the above is to keep it steady. I've had mixed results from using a low flow
  13. The last time I had a shot that ran for less than 30 seconds and any less than a 2:1 it was a dark roast so oily the beans stuck together. I'm in the range of 30-45 seconds at a 2:1-3:1, my shots typically are closer to 40 seconds and around 2.5:1 but I shift the range based on taste or what I feel like. I find there's a wide range of acceptable extractions at this setting e.g I can decrease or increase ratio without altering grind setting or dose and still have a good balanced shot if I want something weaker or stronger. So in a nutshell: increase ratio and shot time and see if that imp
  14. Interesting. I tried it just like that and the SSR won't respond fast enough. It can only respond every half cycle as it's zero crossing. I could stretch the timespan out and say 10 seconds on = full power, 9 seconds = 90% and because it's a heating element it isn't going to be rapidly responding so it should work fine. Now I'm looking at burst fire and porportional control SSRs which are zero crossing still but work differently and are designed for light dimming and heating applications. Unfortunately they're about 4x the price of a normal ssr.
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