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Rob1

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  1. I'm not sure what you'e referring to here to be honest. I haven't mentioned v60 I don't think but yes I'd say it should be fine for any brew method, though not ideal for brewed due to the number of fines. The Virtuoso uses a different burr set and might well produce fewer fines at a coarse setting than a Pharos. With regards to your issues I'm not sure what I've said isn't common with all Pharos grinders? I would say at the same grind setting day to day you shouldn't be getting wildly different shot times i.e. a choker (nothing comes out) and a shot in 30 seconds. That is assuming you keep your dose the same every time and you aren't trying to adjust the grinder while letting the crank turn (assume not since you ignored the question). I can't tell much by the picture but the grinds do look inconsistent this could be caused by them getting stuck though as you've mentioned so maybe this isn't something that'll effect an espresso grind but if your axle is jiggling laterally that should not be happening. Yes they changed their procedures and users have their own tweaks. Follow their procedures for the new Pharos 2.0 for assembling everything. I think with that one they say to tighten the inner bolts in an x pattern while feeling for rubbing and very gently tapping with a hammer until you've got it adjusted as fine as possible and you don't get any rub when you take it a fraction out from zero. I think then they say to take the burrs to zero and torque down the inner bolts but could be wrong about that. By that point they'll be pretty tight anyway.
  2. Does the sage come with pressurised and unpressurised baskets? Just make sure you're using the proper basket. Did you follow the videos on alignment and reassembly properly? There shouldn't be any jiggling movement from the handle aside from being able to lift it. And just to eliminate one other possibility: when you adjust the grinder you keep the handle and grinder completely stationary and only move the adjustment nut? In terms of best grip to use I found thumb around one bolt cover, little finger around the other, push down with the palm hard to keep it steady. Sometimes I'd just have the pinky wrapped around the cover and the thumb would come in closer to the outer burr. YMMV.
  3. Did you grind at around the same speed or were you focused on counting the turns rather than just grinding at a consistent rate? I assume you're using the same coffee from the same bag? What espresso machine are you using it with? Unless the grinder has been very heavily used over its entire lifetime the burrs will still be fine. Take my example of two doubles a day and triple it to six a day and you'll still have only put about 240kg through them. What coffee are you using, how fresh is it, what machine are you using, are the baskets pressurised or unpressurised? 1/2 from zero I think is the starting point for espresso recommended by OE.
  4. Don't know. Run a thumb across the edges around the fine end and see if they still feel like there's an edge. You need to clean them up first and foremost. I'm not 100% sure but I think the Pharos uses the Rossi burr set which will set you back about £75 https://espresso-solutions.co.uk/rossi-conical-grinder-burr-set-68mm-rh/ so hopefully they'll still be good. They should be changed around every 750kg of coffee ground according to espressoparts.com "manufacturer recommendation" for 63mm conicals. They say you might want to change them at half that to maintain peak performance. It looks to have been built at the end of 2013 so assume 6 years of use. If you have a hand grinder you probably aren't having more than one or two cups a day. It's an espresso grinder really so say 36g a day for 6 years = 36 * 365 * 6 = 78840. So round up to 80kg. If you aim to replace the burrs at about the 400kg mark you've still got plenty of life left in them. I suppose burrs will degrade over time in the sense that everything falls apart eventually but really their lifespan is determined by use not time.
  5. I cleaned mine with isopropyl, it breaks through oil and evaporates quickly. Rinsing them off with boiling and soapy water won't hurt and isopropyl to rinse them afterwards will help dry them off... Looks to be a lot of old oil and coffee there for "it's only had 10kg through it". As I said more turns for a coarser grind, less force required, less aggressive grinding. You are only using the top part of the burrs. The grinds are probably getting stuck just because they fall through the burrs until they fall free of the inner burr and get stuck between the middle plate (where there is no grinding surface) and the inner burr. Just rattling the handle up and down a couple of times should see them fall through.
  6. You should be able to go so coarse that the bottom burr sits on the lower bearing (at least with mine) the threading on your axel might be different for the adjustment ring on yours so there might be a limit there but you shouldn't need to grind coarser than that for anything. The burrs should spin freely when there is nothing in them until they start touching obviously so if it's difficult to turn the handle at a coarse setting you might have an alignment issue with the upper and lower bearings if the grinder wasn't assembled properly. The number of turns to grind increases with coarseness so while you say "espresso setting" I assume you've pulled a shot with this setting and seen it's really an espresso setting and not too fine? I never bothered counting the turns on mine but it would take about 30 seconds to grind and I'd get more than one turn in per second.
  7. 1. Cooffe 1KG 2. Joey24dirt 1KG 3. Jimbojohn55 1KG 4. Nicknak 1KG 5. Rob1 1KG 6. johnealey 1Kg Lucky #7. agentb 1Kg 8. MildredM 9. Bacms 1Kg 10. Christos_geo 1kg 11. Scribblez 12. coffeechap 13. Jimbojohn55 1KG 14. catpuccino 1kg
  8. Check your voltage for consistency. Based on your times it looks like everything is fine especially considering you're roasting with an environmental temp of only 8c! Perhaps heating the garage would be a good idea that way you can avoid the need to pre-heat the roaster. Your first roast looks a bit odd as it takes 9 minutes for the beans to reach about 165c. I believe the 'light brown' you see after green is the yellowing phase (on some beans it can look brown or red) which you'll see at bean temps of around 160-165c, with a more uniform (no more green) colour at around 175c....so I'm a bit confused by your first roast starting at 5 minutes, is that because you spent 4 minutes pre-heating to 150c before putting the beans in the roaster? If so your yellowing phase on 9 minutes would actually make sense as it's really 4-5 minute in. Before hitting this phase you should have noticed the beans expanding and going a bit pale while shedding some skin. You probably hit first crack at about 12:30-13:00 on both roasts. I'm surprised the roast didn't take off when you left it for a minute at 240c, and I'd expect dropping it by 20c to stall the roast completely as you are essentially starting the cooling cycle. It's impossible to tell you anything from the pictures you've posted: based on your description of crackling, more smoke, and very quickly turning dark it sounds like the beans went well into second crack. That doesn't mean they are over roasted. Based on your description of the flavours for the lighter roast it sounds like you've got sugar to burn so a dark roast might well be good. Coffee compass offer an extra extra dark ethiopian wild (freshly roasted the beans are covered in so much oil that they stick together!) that has fruit, chocolate and caramel notes so I wouldn't be surprised to find out your dark roast here is just fine. Give your dark roast a test, you might find out they are fine for any brew methods and might even prefer them to the lighter roast. As far as advice/help for your roasts it's difficult to say. You don't actually identify anything wrong with your second batch aside from 'little bitterness' and a lack of depth. The little bitterness could be from some slight burning, in which case limited temp to 235c or less might be ideal especially if you're going for a light roast, though this is very difficult to recommend because I don't know how long your FC lasted for, if it really did occur when you say it did, if it ended or slowly progressed when you lowered the heat...so more information is needed. The reality is you need to learn what to watch out for yourself and notice sometimes very subtle things happening through the roast in order to make changes to a profile. The lack of depth could be a stalled roast or it could be a short development time or it could just be the fact you are using a combination air/drum roaster... 1 - I typically use my ears to listen for first crack. It depends on the bean. I tend to notice an increase in moisture coming out of the roaster and then the obvious increase in smoke. The smell also tends to intensify as first crack starts. You will probably notice these visual signs accompanied by a few early pops before first crack is well underway. 2 - It depends what type of roast you are going for. If you want a light roast ending at the end of first crack or even before then you need to roast at a temperature that allows first crack to progress slowly. If you want a darker roast you want first crack to progress faster, meaning you roast at a higher temp, otherwise you'll end up spending a very long time roasting to second crack. My advice would be to aim for a 2:30 development time from the start of FC to end of roast and adjust from there. I never attempted to get a roast ending on first crack end or sooner so if I wanted a lighter roast I'd aim for a FC duration of two minutes 30 seconds further development from there taking the beans to about 225c (measured with a bean mass probe not the gene display!). To prolong first crack lower the temp when first is well underway (lots of popping) if that doesn't work lower it at the first pops and if that doesn't work roast at a lower temp. If the roast stalls when you lower the temp by even 5c when first is underway then roast at a lower temp. 3 - Impossible to say. Pull a shot and find out. You could also just cup them to see if there's a lot of bitterness or burned flavours. Post roast: 1 - I store mine in a cooler which is air tight. If I'm not going to use them quickly I vacuum seal them in 1 or 2kg batches. 2 - I don't ever leave beans to degas in an open container. They go straight into a ziplock back and I squeeze all the air out and seal them up for 4 days at least. 3 - Best thing for storage are containers that allow you to remove headspace (air) this will be airscape or something similar or a ziplock bag. A glass jar will be fine if you are going to use the roast up within a couple of weeks.
  9. Rob1

    Black Friday

    Thanks ordered Espresso blend and Kenyan for the snowden (though will try it as espresso ofc)
  10. Bringing this thread back to life I have my recent(ish) purchase of a Lelit Bianca flow control valve. I placed the order on the 24th September and finally received all of the parts today, just over two months later. I was initially quoted a "two week" delivery time... A lot happened. Tl/DR I should give them credit for not just cancelling the order and refunding me. I don't know if they lost money on the transaction but I hope they didn't. So they do deserve credit for actually seeing it through and delivering I just think communication should have been a whole lot better. Firstly one week after the order date on the 2nd October I received an email telling me that the order had shipped. I hadn't received anything by the 10th so fired off an email asking for tracking information and was told promptly that "yes I've ordered it so I'm expecting it next week"...okay then so by this point two weeks have already passed and I'm being told that they expect to receive it "next week". So one week behind schedule at least. It seems like the shipment notification I received was generated after they placed an order with Lelit for the part but I don't know... Anyway on the 21st October the valve is finally delivered but it's missing the paddle, grub screw, and pressure gauge. I don't receive any note in the parcel or any email telling me this so obviously I fire off another email. I'm told they've just found out that Lelit have split the products and the missing part is the paddle and grub screw (no mention of pressure gauge). But hey I'm told they've been ordered so I just assume it'll be a two week wait again...or maybe three... I send another email on the 7th November asking for an update and don't hear anything. So I try again on the 8th. This time I receive a response: it's taken some time to sort out but the parts are in transit and they're expecting to receive them "early next week" and they'll be sent straight on. By Friday 22nd November I still haven't received anything or heard anything else so I email again. I get no response so email again on Tuesday in the morning and then evening. By the afternoon of Wednesday I still haven't heard anything so decide I've had enough. I suggest they're having trouble completing the order and they should refund me so I can buy the parts from another retailer. This time I get a response and tracking information which shows the parts were posted to me on the Tuesday...... What would have happened if I had never sent an email when I just received the valve? Would I have got the paddle and gauge at all? I don't want to draw any conclusions because that would be unfair. I have no reason to believe they didn't intend to complete the order, it's just at the point I received the valve it didn't seem to me they were even aware there was an issue and that's not a position a customer should find themselves in. I felt a few times that my order had been simply forgotten and I was sending emails as reminders. One thing I can say is they could have really improved their email communications. If they tell a customer something will be delivered in a week and it turns out that isn't going to be the case they should let them know rather than just keep silent. If they find out they've made a mistake listing the product and parts are missing they should really tell the customer rather than just silently ship on half the parts... So just beware of ordering anything that's going to be ordered from a manufacturer rather than stock they have on hand as you could be in for a long wait. That said they did actually deliver in the end and if it hadn't been for Lelit splitting the parts things wouldn't have been that bad.
  11. If you had bothered to contribute/get involved with the forum more perhaps you wouldn't need to rely on extrasensory perception to make judgements. There are a variety of roasters used by forum members here. Some use the Dalian Amazon, at least two use an Aillio Bullet R1, others use a Cormorant or Ikawa to name a few. In the past there have been users of the hottop and behmor, though I'm not sure if they're still active on the forum or still use them to roast, and I'm 90% certain somebody has used a Kaldi before. People have also used small hand devices that are used on the hob, usually called "ceramic hand held coffee roaster" or something similar. There are a number of users who have modified popcorn poppers to create a fluid bed roaster, and again I'm 90% certain some have even added thermocouples to read BT and ET, and added control over fan speed and power to the heater. There's no blindness to the shortcomings of the Gene, hence the recommended modifications, and people should really get that it's an involved process that requires attention and is a fully manual roaster with no computer assistance that requires experience to produce good roasts. Most people roast on the hob under an extractor fan or have the roaster positioned next to a window and vent outside with ducting, it doesn't produce a lot of smoke unless you go into second crack. There are times I've forgotten to turn the extractor fan on or open the window without having smoke alarms go off. If you wanted to you could fully replace the electronics and run it via computer control for greater control but it's not a step I feel the need to take and if you were going to do that you could probably just make your own simple fluid bed roaster with arduino control. You seem to really like the roaster and are happy with the roasts you're producing, which is the main thing, so I'm happy for you. I personally don't really feel I can comment on the roaster or the quality of the roasts having not used it, just as I can't comment on the Bullet, Amazon or any other roaster for that matter, so it's good you're here to share your experience. Maybe you'd like to head to the 'today's roast' thread where you can post images of your roasts, share profiles, and learn more about the coffees and roasters other members are using.
  12. Your comment could be extend to proper roasters like the Dalian Amazon for example. Ability to follow a profile via automated software doesn't mean it's going to produce the best roast. The Gene is very capable of reproducing roasts producing identical flavours in the cup time after time. Yes, with power control modification. I don't understand why somebody would buy it and not mod it for greater control but there you go. Before my bad soldering gave way (and I haven't bothered fixing it yet) I was able to track the effect of power changes on the roast (with a somewhat consistent voltage +/-5v approx) with a thermocouple I placed in the bean mass and roasts were reproduced almost exactly in terms of drum and bean mass temperature. So while it might not follow a profile the same way computer controlled roasters will it is very much capable of reproducing things in a way that actually matters: in the cup.
  13. It's a Brewtus 2. You can't turn off the service boiler and the thermostat comes from a fridge and they had a high failure rate....very surprised it's still working. Probably not worth the money especially with the weird situation going on with the pressure gauges.
  14. You can get cheapo TDS meters from amazon. I have the copy "TDS-3" which is a copy of the "HM TDS-3" which has two different listings on amazon, one about £16 and the other about £17 (no idea why). For my purposes the copy is good enough; I check distilled water to make sure it reads 0 and also use it to check for consistency of remineralised water so I don't care what the numbers are I just care that they are consistent. If I were to buy another though I'd get the real thing.
  15. Looks like it just needs tightening or a bit of ptfe as above. Did you buy from Bella Barista? I would have thought they'd check for things like this... On another matter, you just use pure RO water? Did you flush the boilers before use? There looks to be dry residue there. Again I thought BB flushed the boilers of their machines before sale but maybe I'm mistaken.
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