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Rob1

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  1. I can see some burning but I was expecting much more considering you took it to 245c. I was going to say it's too high but maybe not and maybe you'd gt rid of most of the burning I can see by doing the dimmer mod.... If the chamber is clogging with chaff then drop your charge to something 220g. First crack duration of 45 seconds (assuming it finished when you started the cooling cycle) is a little quick, probably better extending it especially if you're aiming to drop the roast just as the beans have developed through first crack. You could try using a lower max temp to extend but there are other ways such as dropping temp just before FC starts and even dropping a second time as first crack is rolling if it's progressing very quickly. What does DE mean? Hard to see what you were aiming for with profile 2? I'm assuming you actually hit your target temp because if not that info is worthless.
  2. Yes it's about consistency mainly but other issues too such as old grinds getting mixed in with fresh and necessity to use a loaded hopper or put a weight on the beans to get it producing its best grind. Going "fine enough" doesn't really mean anything: you could go fine enough with a pestle and mortar given enough time.
  3. Depends on the results you want and how fast the roast is progressing (your ability to control the roast). If it's rapidly getting darker and you hear a pop you might want to drop the temp if you want to stretch out first crack or just prevent the roast from taking off and hitting second immediately. If it's slowly moving along and you hear a crack and drop the temp you might stall it or it might mean you'd have to roast for a very long time to get it to the level you want.
  4. The temp strip should be on the group not the boiler, it's fairly useless there as the pressure gauge on the sight glass can be used to determine boiler temp.
  5. Should also update this to say Bella Barista now stock the profitec. I took a look at whole latte love's page and saw somebody fitted it to an expobar successfully so this probably fits multiple machines too.
  6. Have you measured the temp of your cup? Because I'll be amazed if you managed to get it above 93c by pouring water into it from a kettle and then emptying it before pulling water from the group. The water will cool rapidly as it leaves the kettle and then continue to cool in the cup...and then when the cup is empty there's a huge surface area for further loss. The water falls from the group in droplets and cools rapidly. Typically it'll be low to mid 80s in the cup for a set temp at the group of 90-95c. You can get a thermometer that goes into the hex bolt on the group to measure the water temperature as it is pushed out of the group if you want but they are really meant for HX machines rather than PID DBs.
  7. Hahaha 2008 is now an old La Pav, I've got one in bits that's from the 70s. It isn't difficult to change the boiler really but changing all the other fixtures on it will be. The sight glass in particular can be a pita to remove old gaskets from (though maybe that's changed on the newer models). Have you got the tools on hand to fit the bolts inside the boiler for the steam tap and safety valve, assuming it doesn't have them attached?
  8. No there's nothing wrong. You measured the temp of the water in the cup not the group head itself right? As in "the temperature from the group head" means 'the temperature of the water that had come from the group head and was in the cup'? You'll lose a lot of heat at it drops out of the group and lands in the cup and then the cup with further absorb heat.
  9. Don't forget this is a beta machine, not a production one. Production machines won't have this problem because they have been sealed properly with threadlocker (and a coated bolt?). It's seems careless of ACS to not inform Beta users that they need to remove the bolts and refit them with PTFE or threadlocker. They must have known the plugs on the beta machines would eventually fail otherwise they wouldn't have changed it for the production models. Beta machines were made with some parts they had on hand so I can understand this kind of solution was taken on them to keep costs down, but it wouldn't have cost them anything to raise the flag here.
  10. RO water with added bicarbonates or the Peak water jug.
  11. Yes there are many differences. http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/lapavoni_eng.htm http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/lapavoni_pr_eng.htm http://www.francescoceccarelli.eu/lapavoni_ep_eng.htm
  12. There no chlorine in the water...though I think the idea was right. I asked what water was used, how often steaming was used, and how often the boiler was flushed (by asking how often the hot water tap was used) because I noticed scale on the bottom plate and screws which shouldn't happen with boiler safe water....So the service boiler water was probably supersaturated with minerals without ever being flushed properly meaning the 14mg/l Chloride from Ashbeck could rise significantly over the course of a year. It's possible for SCC to occur even in 316L steel with high chloride concentration.
  13. Op used Ashbeck exclusively. High concentrations of chlorides and sulphates could develop from not flushing the service boiler regularly enough. My chemistry my be wildly off but you might get calcium sulphate deposits eventually. No chlorine though.
  14. No. Turns out the shipping notification I received last week was some kind of error. I contacted Peter at espresso underground to ask for a tracking number as it was approaching the end of the expected delivery time and he told he me had ordered it from Lelit and was expecting it next week (hopefully early next week). I've waited the best part of a year to add a paddle to the group or do some other pressure/flow profiling mod so I can stand to wait another couple of weeks.
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