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About Norvin

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  1. I think it drains to the tank. It allows air but not water to flow. I don' t think that it's important, on the old Yahoo group they used to advocate blocking it off to prevent leaks/ loss of pressure.
  2. Long time since I have worked on one of those but I am pretty sure that's not a Classic, probably a Coffee or a Selecta Delux. The part circled is a spring loaded ball pressure release, not an OPV. Look up the base of the group head, you will probably find a screw in pressure valve that takes the place of an OPV. There will be no solenoid too.
  3. On the main board in the body under the bottom cover.
  4. The biggest component on the board, twin coil 6va transformer. It has 0 115 115 0 on the top, 0 15 15 0 on the bottom. Should cost about £10.
  5. That may be a good development as it's easier to track down a dead component as opposed to one that is working intermittently. The control panel and lights stopped working on my E8 recently. It was the voltage transformer, replaced it and all working again now.
  6. Its quite common for the last few millimeters of a thread to be left off in manufacturing a bolt (or more correctly, a set screw), it would be hard to machine or roll a thread right up to abut the head so the diameter of the shaft is reduced to the thread root diameter so that it can be screwed fully in. It looks like when you omitted the washer only a small amount of thread was engaged in the boiler and even damaged the last portion of thread. I would try a dowty (or bonded seal) washer, it would restore the missing thickness and also incorporates a seal. They can be found on ebay. Worth a try.
  7. I thought that you first immerse the wand about half a centimeter for a few seconds to entrain air, then you submerge it further to swirl the milk to get microfoam. Is that where I am going wrong?
  8. Assuming that the leaks aren't due to faulty joints, try refitting with a little PTFE tape. The first one is the safety valve and shouldn't leak. Probably best to replace it as you shouldn't mess with it as you will spoil the setting. The second one is the anti vac valve, it is nomal for it to spit a bit on warm up until it seals under pressure. If it continues to spit, best replace that too, they are cheap enough.
  9. Great idea, perhaps incorporating a little cuckoo that pops out when the correct amount of coffee has been ground.
  10. Good to see you. They have nicked my facebook background picture and put it as a background picture on my profile here, makes you wonder what other information they have appropriated.
  11. Er, accomplished bodger more like. Have you seen the first post?
  12. I thought about making something similar but it seemed a bit excessive for a single or very occasional use. Far more satisfying to overcome a problem with bits found after a trawl around the garage 😁. Am I the only person who thinks about that bit in 'Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance' when cutting up beer cans for shims?
  13. Yes, cutting up an aluminium drinks can into spiral strips is easy and will probably work just as well. I was really struggling until I decided to improvise, once I hit upon a solution the job became easy.
  14. The shot volume was going down and it continued to drip for ages after I removed the cup so I decided to renew the seals. I have since found out that I may have got away with regreasing the seals, but there you go. I had set aside about 30 mins for the job, little did I know... The old seals came out easily enough but putting the new ones in without damaging them or the piston was another matter. The seals were too tough and would not stretch over the piston, I have seen the youtube video where someone uses wire to guide the seal, Reiss suggests using small allen keys but I couldn't do it and didn't want to risk damaging the seal or the piston. Here is how I did it. A few turns of copper shim were wrapped around the piston so that the seal could slide over without getting caught on the sharp edges of the piston grooves. A longer piece for the furthest seal and a shorter piece for the middle seal. I fitted the seal to the piston using an adapter that I had made to fit a camera hood to a Rossi grinder but have since found that an end fitting from a 25mm MDPE fitting (about £3.50 from Screwfix) looks even better as it has a taper on the end to aid stretching the seal and is the right diameter. The piston is back in the machine now but here is a picture of the bits mentioned, an old seal is stretched over one fittiing, I hope that this helps someone. If anybody wants to try, send an SAE and I'll send some shim.
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