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About Randleog

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    Lightly Roasted

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    Cycling, ebiking, writing
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    Retired, Writer, Landlord.
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  1. I make a hobby of refurbing pre-2015 UK Gaggia Classics, selling them on with Rancilio wands and reset OPV valves, but can't find anywhere on here to advertise. The store seems to consist of 'sold' items, but nothing currently available (scratches head). Any help please?
  2. So, I completed the exercise, boiling the group in a solution of Alum, and the result is below. A few caveats: it is a dangerous business. I boiled the group for about 20 hours in about 250g of the compound in a supersaturated solution. When all the ferrous (iron) material had dissolved into salts, I removed the head and found that the solids (salts from the chemical reaction) had caked hard on the group. It took me about an hour to scrape and wash them off and the result is in photographs below. As a shortcut, I attempted to boil the head in citric and malic acid. This not only did no
  3. I decided to give the 'Alum' solution a shot. My workshop currently resembles the nutty professors laboratory! The procedure involves boiling the affected item (or rather keeping it at just below boiling point for several hours) in a super-saturated solution of Ammonium Aluminium Sulphate for several hours. The ferrous (steel bolts) will dissolve into salts leaving the non-ferrous metals (chrome and brass) untouched. My wife took a dim view of using the gas hob in the kitchen for this. As you can see, I employed an old boiler as a heating element. I made sure that a thermostat was in-c
  4. As you can see from the image (how do I rotate!) I have the nightmare boiler problem. Heavily lime-scaled is the least of it. The two solenoid bolts and and one boiler bolt have corroded and then sheared, leaving heavily corroded stubs in the group. Aware that an attempt to drill out the stubs would be doomed to failure, but not wishing to sacrifice the group, I ponded this for a while, then Googled it. Apparently Ammonium Aluminium Sulphate, otherwise know as 'Alum' will eat away at the ferrous metal but leave the brass and chrome behind. I have ordered 500g of this stuff over the
  5. This is where I am now with this. Better than hand painted at least!
  6. I'm definitely interested! I'm having a go at coming up with my own solution (a longshot).
  7. Has anyone managed to successfully paint decent logos onto a switch? I got fed-up with looking at faded logos and tried my hand at some impressionistic artwork. I suspect I'll end up going back to blank switches at some point.
  8. I suppose because the design is such that most of the pressure from the group head bolts bears down on the gasket rather than via metal to metal contact, otherwise the gasket will fail as they often do over time anyway. If you place an engineers ruler diagonally over the mouth of a boiler, the flanges tend to rise up at the extremities, so reducing the contact area. If you add together the surface area of the faces of the bolt heads and the total interior area of the threads I'd bet that it's approaching the area of metal contact of the surfaces of the group and the the boiler. I might t
  9. I'm not so sure. The bolts in question are well away from the coffee production train -- in fact they don't even get wet. There is no known association between silicon heat transfer grease and cancers either, so any possible risk factor would shrink to zero. There is a potential for greatly increasing the heat transfer rate via these bolts to the group. I would disagree with the contention that they are 'firmly' bolted together. If the (silicon) gasket is doing its job, it will form a wafer thin seam between the two metal surfaces thus preventing heat transfer. Remember, this is the only
  10. It seems to me that it's a good idea to apply silicon heat-sink grease to the bolts connecting the group to the boiler to speed up the transfer of heat to the group from the boiler. Computer heatsink compound is designed for this very purpose and can only work to speed up the temperature recovery in the group head. Is this common practice? Can anyone think of a down-side? What greases and sealers (if any) are currently used for rebuild purposes?
  11. Please let me know when you have a :


    Eureka Mignon Specialita On Demand Grinder 230V - Red CR"


    Back in stock . There seems to be a national shortage.



    1. BlackCatCoffee


      Hi there, apologies but we do not stock the models with the chrome spout.

      We will have the red available with black spout in the next few weeks.

      Currently have white, black, blue and green all with black spout all available to ship immediately.


  12. My old (2012) Classic has had a hard life. Two heavy espresso drinkers in a hard-water area and too many descaling operations had taken their toll. The steam control knob was reamed out – the spring retainer missing The steam valve had begun to disintegrate - the needle was bedded and the internal seal leaking steam into the casing. The electrical switch had taken water and old grinds via the heating plate and was emitting electrical smoke. The boiler was leaking at the gasket as a result of extensive pitting of the aluminium. I was dismayed at the cost of replacement
  13. Glad I found the answer to that one. I couldn't believe that coffee community was passing up the opportunity to do a bit of back-door horse trading. I'm currently falling for a Ferrari Red Mignon Specialita but I haven't managed to drum up a narrative for my dear one that's good enough to justify my expenditure of nearly £500 less than 12 months after I purchased a high-end full-suspension mountain e-bike. I'm interested in what the For Sale section has to say about what other grinders are in that price range. (I'm hoping this post will bring my total to 5 post!)
  14. Thanks all for all the advice. I've decided on a Eureka Mignon Speicialita, having binned the alternative of a Baritza Sette 270 which appears to have reliability issues. Is there anything else I should be thinking about at this point?
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