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Posts posted by stevenh

  1. 35 minutes ago, lake_m said:

    The biggest chew was getting the old display board out. It's not helped by the fact that it's wedged into the back of the grinder's metal bezel otherwise you could get a solder sucker in there. Only option is to wick it up. A bit fiddly but you'll get there. I didn't bother soldering the new board back in (sod that!), I just used a couple blobs of glue.

    Swapping the jumpers across wasn't too bad, you just need a magnifying glass and some tweezers. I used a hot air gun to remove the tiny resistors but you could just as easily rake them off with a small iron. You don't actually need to solder the the resistors back in place, instead you could just bridge the pads with a wire or a blob of solder.

    Remove jumpers from J3 and J5, and put them on J2 and J4.


    Awesome thanks! Maybe after the Covid restrictions are over I'll take the board down to a local electronics store ask him to do the solder work... last time i got the control board for my coffee machine fixed for a fiver :)


  2. Oh I have the same problem with my Ceado too, just been ignoring it for the last year since it still works and I've never relied on the display anyways. If its cheap to fix then I might do it too... Is the correct drop in replacement supposed to be FSTN Negative or Positive? I see the negative ones bit more expensive on eBay...

    @lake_m the link you posted seems to be for FSTN Positive? How did you get on with it?





  3. Its been a while but thought I'd update this page a little with latest experience of faulty main board...

    Symptoms rapidly gets worse over course of few days:

    1. Brewing cuts off prematurely shortly after pressure reached, or during back flushes.
    2. When powering on lights alternate between no water and element on.
    3. When powering on lights briefly flash and machine turns off.

    The component that usually goes bad is the electrolytic capacitor next to the transformer (top left on old style board and bottom left next to keypad cable on new style board). The part is a 35V 470uF capacitor, if you look at the top and it is not perfectly flat and has slight bulge it is bad, I also checked with ESR meter in circuit, if good it should read something like 0.2 Ohms or less (note this is ESR, not regular resistance measurement).
    If it is not that and you need to replace the board, old style boards no longer available and I was told that you would need to replace both main board and keypad if going from old to new style.
    Hope that helps other ppl in similar situation.

    This is a cheap repair especially if you are familiar with board repairs but in my case I was too lazy to dig out the soldering iron so just got a local electronic repair shop to replace the cap for a small tip :)

    Hope this helps someone.


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  4. Also if you are removing the burrs themselves for additional cleaning, make sure to put them back in the same carrier and same orientation... use a marker pen to add a dot on the carrier under the burrs so you keep the same alignment each time as that also affects the grinds...

  5. The way I do it now is start very fine and work my way to the left coarser, I usually get to the correct setting after a few days since I make 1 maybe 2 a day... I've learned to take bigger steps now when it is choking whereas before I was doing half steps it was taking ages to zone in. Having different sized baskets also helps, if it is far too fine I switch to a smaller basket for a few days as I coarsen it up, just switch to using a smaller cup for the same taste :)

  6. Anyone tried aligning the burrs on their e37s?

    I have a very slight high point right on the outer edge of the burr on one corner that always touches first... tried to add some shim at the opposite side to even out as per the mythos alignment guide but as the burrs actually sit inside a notch, can't see how to shim it up?

    I could just put loads of beans through and wait for that high point to naturally round off...

  7. Not sure what the proper pressure range is for your machine but the behaviour is correct as all Pressurestats have a deadband, partly to stop it from switching constantly if it hovers around the set point. Most have deadband around 0.2-0.3 bar. Depending on your temperature requirements, you can increase the boiler pressure by adjusting that screw but I'll let others comment on what the maximum value is.

  8. Hmmm just had strange experience these few days... been trying to dial in a decaf from Pact and it just isn't happening, all shots are in under 15s been going finer and finer... new to this machine so not sure how much each step equates to but I was doing 1-1.5 steps each time and I'm at the point where the grinder is set so fine that nothing comes out of the chute... if I dial it all way back to my coarsest setting everything that had backed up shoots out then all is good again. Could these beans be bad that they are unusable for espresso?

  9. Is there a priming sequence in the manual?

    Most of these are self priming but can take a few seconds for all the air to pass through after which the flow should be steady there shouldn't be any sputtering after all the air is out...

    Is this tank fed? How is the water fed to the pump?

  10. Just now I'm using a mix of filtered tap water and some Harrington bottled water and is a nice improvement over just tap water so I definitely need some hardness boost in my water... guess my choices are either a remineralisation filter with some bypass control or manual mixing in of buffer and magnesium...

  11. The bestmax premium does not add minerals. It removes some of the calcium and exchanges some of the rest for magnesium.


    Oh so if your water didn't have much Calcium in the first place then you wouldn't get much Magnesium?

    I emailed BWT cause find their descriptions aren't very clear what the difference of all the various filters are and doesn't give any figures on how much minerals they add/exchange...

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