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About dajw

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    Lightly Roasted

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    Digital stuff; guitars; making things; woodworking
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    Director of digital & customer experience.
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  1. I guess I'm not the first to ask this, but I have a super jolly which works pretty well. I modified it to doserless back in 2014 which helped a great deal but of course it retains grinds. It gives a pretty consistent grind quality and I can get an excellent cup from them. I have always operated it with the static screen loosely flapping about because without it there's a lot of static, and with it installed correctly it tends to choke up and/or retain more grounds depending on the coffee. I have occasionally wondered whether that could be modified to reduce the amount of grounds it holds on to, but I also wonder whether to "upgrade". This is where I would love your experience and advice! The SJ is bomb-proof. I doubt it will ever fail, but if it does I can repair it. A Sette 270wi will weigh consistently but this is after the fact, and is very noisy The niche zero seems like a great way to weigh beforehand and get almost all of the grounds out. Conical vs. flat is just not a consideration for me. I've good experience with both.
  2. I like to keep an eye on the water level before the alarm tells me it is empty.After testing out the concept with my brewing siphon tube, I've put in a slightly better temporary "water tank level sight glass" which I've improvised with some 3mm PVC tube, and a 3mm acrylic pipe. I intend to mark the minimum and maximum points on the tube.I think this could easily become a more permanent thing by routing the tube within the case, exiting at the drip tray. Just needs some elegant method of attachment.
  3. I have an idea for a super simple modification which I prototyped with a siphon tube from my brewing supplies. Basically a sight glass for the water tank: Flexible tube to the bottom of the tank, up out of the top down below the machine then up to the glass tube you can see here. Works a treat. I've ordered some more appropriately sized tube to try a more elegant implementation.
  4. Well my Breville Dual Boiler BES900 (from the Australian market) died suddenly after a routine clean and backflush. After much reading around, discussion, playing and talking I arrived at the following logic: Starting point: "When my BDB dies I'll get a Linea Mini, or an old GS/3" (mostly because I love using the full-fat Linea when I get to play at my local coffee shop after hours the steam power is something else, but overall they are just lovely.) Outcome: The Linea mini is good, but is it really £3k good? Probably, but I'm not going to spend that much on a machine having just moved house! I found my way to the Alex Duetto IV after much reading around, discussion etc. I knew I would like to get some decent steam power and have a decent solid internals, nice simple controls. The BDB isn't that repairable, and I found the steaming capability a bit weak. It also turns out that it was completely broken with the solenoid valve corroded beyond repair. Bella Barista were supremely helpful on the phone and the machine arrived next day even though I ordered at about 2pm. Must have just caught the courier. I spent a while reading the manual and then prepared the machine. Mine had the factory PID settings from the off, so I adjusted them to the recommended settings as per the manual. I flushed and readied the machine. I'm really pleased to have a rotary pump at last (though my Super Jolly is really the elephant in the room when it comes to noise.) Espresso was dead easy to get dialled in - sorted in a few shots before I found the sweetness in my favourite roast at the moment (Pioneer from Horsham Coffee Roasters). Milk texturing is always a journey with a "if only I'd" and "next time I'll" but by around day 3 I'd got used to the extra power of the steam wand. It's on the four hole tip, and just as feisty as the Linea in my local coffee shop. I've managed to pour a few five layered tulips now but still needs more practice. I intended to repair then sell on the BDB as a working machine. When it failed, it sounded like the OPV had locked open and/or the solenoid had gone. Upon disassembly I found the OPV was fine, but the solenoid valve/group head assembly had corroded so badly that three of the four screws sheared off during removal. I hadn't used excessive force (as somewhat mechanically minded!) but oh well. That puts it in a whole new category of expense to repair - as the stumps of the screws are corroded into the group assy. I'll just eBay it for parts. Bah! Anyhow! Awesome machine. Small enough for home/WAF (wife acceptance factor) but with near commercial power (just keep an eye on those recovery times, which are brief but not instant). Love it.
  5. I got my Mazzer SJ from them, perfectly fine. They've been using this photo for this machine for ages.
  6. I saw a few images around the Internet that show an acrylic tube as a bean hopper. It turns out that this is trivially easy to prepare. I thought I would share what I did, knowledge shared is good! Order from an eBay seller a 100mm sample length of clear acrylic tube, 56mm outer diameter, 3mmm wall thickness (50mm internal dia). Also order a tapered cork bung, of the kind used for a carboy/demijohn of a small enough final diameter. The 56mm outer diameter of the tube is just right to go almost all the way down to the base of the upper burr carrier, which tapers slightly so it is held firmly enough. (That is to say, you jam a pipe in the hole, easy). It holds just enough beans for me for the day. I tried a larger pipe that matched the diameter of the original hopper, but I bought my Super Jolly used, and the upper carrier was slightly bent so this wouldn't fit on my particular grinder. i want to try making a slot for a gate so that the tube and beans can be removed for cleaning more easily, and I may put an acrylic rod down on top of the beans a little weight (though I've not had problems with consistency of grind with this). apologoes for the rotated images, can't figure out how to fix this on my iPhone.
  7. So after much experimentation and quite a lot of terrible shots, I'm there. The trick was to disassemble the upper part of the grinder and clean out thoroughly. I rebuilt it and dialled in the grind from a really coarse grind. I suppose that the slower rate at which the grinds exit the chamber now mean that the grind position is about an eighth of a turn 'faster' (I.e. 45 degrees coarser!) than it was without the screen.
  8. Hey. Yes I have. I've taken my Dual Boiler down to his workshop and done his barista skills course, actually. Was good!
  9. Cheers froggystyle! Hello to you too.
  10. I wouldn't call it art yet! I've got as far as the right sort of texture for the milk but my pour is well off — as you can see here: I did manage a reasonably good one when I was on a barista course at Winchester Coffee School, but haven't perfected it at home. I shall be reading up on the tips here for sure! Right now I am puzzling over the anti-static screen on the Super Jolly.
  11. I only have the Chemex, and have found it very easy to get a consistently good brew. It is a truly special taste.
  12. Hello, I'm Dominic and I love coffee! My partner Mim and I are presently competing to see who can pour the best flat white at home! We are using this kit at home: Grinding: Mazzer Super Jolly which I cleaned up and refurbised, and have converted to doserless. Breville 'Smart Grinder' Hario Mini mill Brewing: Breville BES900 dual boiler machine (originally from NZ) MyPressi Twist v2 Chemex drip filter Various small cones, drip filters and cafetieres and a moka pot. Favourite coffee is 'Synergy Blend' from Mark at Winchester Coffee Roasters.
  13. Hello, I've just modified my Mazzer Super Jolly automatic with a doserless funnel. The process was quite easy to follow using the various guides that are scattered around the web. It ended up looking like this: I have installed the 50Hz anti-static screen between the gasket and the funnel, and the grinds just back up behind the screen so much that they jam the motor! I wondered if anyone else has any experience with conversion to doserless, anti-static screens etc. Without the screen, the coffee is usable but it does clump and suffers a little with static. With the screen I cannot get grounds out of the chute at all. Should the funnel be grounded? My doser had two pairs of wires going to the board: a light grey pair for the automatic cut off microswitch at the top of the doser, and a dark grey pair that disappeared inside the dosing lever mechanism. I have no idea what this pair was for. You can see them in these pics: and And hello — this is my first post here!
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