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About hullcity

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    Lake Paladru, France

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  1. I have the Gene with the 230V element (I live in France) but routinely get 240+ V at the socket (except in the depths of winter). I did the dimmer mod to be able to dial down the power to 1200W and also to compensate for the fluctuations of my mains supply (230-245V in a typical summer session). I tried roasting at 1300W but didn’t find any difference in the cup, and anyway DaveCUK recommended me at the time to not go so high with the power. Also at the higher power with Brazilian beans (250g input) you get the element switching on and off when it gets too hot due to chaff build up.
  2. Finally got a new heating element, installed it this morning and voila, machine working again 😀. Once more thanks for your help. cheers, Mike
  3. Thanks for your advice Dave. I’ll get a heating element ordered and will report back with the results. Cheers, Mike
  4. Thanks again Dave, Well, for what it’s worth, if I set the range on my multimeter to 2000kohm, I get a reading of around 120 between a heating element terminal and the boiler body. Mike
  5. Thanks Dave, Since the RCD trips immediately when I switch the machine on, wouldn’t the element still be cold? Any other simple troubleshooting I can do with a multimeter? Mike
  6. Thanks for your help Neil, Did as you suggested, I don’t detect any short circuit between either element terminal and the case or boiler. Mike
  7. Hi all, Switched on the Rocket this morning only for the RCD on the fuse box to trip immediately. Tried again and the same thing happened, the power led flicked on for a split second before the RCD tripped again. Opened up the Rocket, no sign of any damp/water leakage, wires all look ok. I unplugged the wires at the heating element, switched on again and this time the power led came on, the water pump started up and the RCD did not trip. Resistance across the heating element terminals measures 44 Ohm. Any advice on how to proceed with the troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.
  8. First crack in the Gene is very hard to hear with Brazilian beans, especially if you don’t know what you’re listening for. Better to roast a hard/high grown bean or Monsooned Malabar, you should hear the crack with those.
  9. It’s supposedly 230V in France as well but I usually have nearer 240V or even as high as 244V. You really should get a power meter for your socket to rule out that variable. You can also see how stable your line voltage is (or not, in my case). I can get anywhere between 229 to 244V depending on the season, plus there is a lot of fluctuation (10V) during the roast. The dimmer mod combats that as well as giving a bit more control over the roast. Good luck and keep at it!
  10. I have the 230V element and the line voltage can vary from 230V (winter) to 244V (summer).
  11. I’ve had that with Brazils when roasting at full power (1300W), due to chaff. With 250g roasting at 1200W or lower, never had any problems.
  12. Nah, 1200W is with dimmer on. I have the 230V model (I live in France), but the voltage around these parts is usually in the upper 230s and can get up to 245V! It fluctuates quite a lot such that I have to keep an eye on the plug meter and make little adjustments on the dimmer during the roast. Without the dimmer I'm at over 1300W during the summer, less in the depths of winter when the voltage goes down to 230.
  13. Thanks for the info guys. I'm still roasting at around 1200W up to first crack, then drop the power to stretch development out and hit cooling just before second crack. For softer beans I also try 1150W. Temp at first crack is between 232 to 238C (gene readout), depending on the bean. Heat up with 250g beans (at 1200W) to 220C is almost always 11 min. Rob1, 6 min seems really quick, have you got a flamethrower attached to your gene?
  14. As long as you don't blast the hell out of the beans or drop them far too early, you'll get something not half bad in most cases. The fiddling with the roast just tweaks the taste to your liking and gets those little nuances out of the bean. Assuming your vent is open and not ducted, keep sniffing the smoke during the roast. Just before 1st crack the smell changes from grassy/baking to something more pungent, and there's usually a bit more smoke.
  15. I think the thing that has helped my roasting efforts the most has been keeping the temp under control at the start of first crack. Previously I used to have a set temp in mind and heat to that point even if first crack was underway, which could be a few to several degrees higher. It's that window between first and second cracks which needs the most attention and fiddling with.
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