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hotmetal

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hotmetal last won the day on August 7 2019

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About hotmetal

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    Berks
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    Cycling, motorcycling, martial arts, music and hifi

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  1. Roast potato, surely? I'll get my, er, jacket!
  2. Lecherous Side of Life?! And now none of us are going to be able to use that phrase, or even think of it in the same way now! ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  3. @Drewster the lengths some people will go to to get a back stage pass! I like your style fella - if your man provided you with an evening of quality music, and you got to hang out for a bit, that's worth a bag of beans at Christmas... even Drop... [emoji441][emoji450][emoji477] Actually I remember 'blagging' the guest list to a Small Fakers gig and getting the beers in for the band and me, maybe I should have just taken my coffee! I'm looking forward to this. Haven't had Rave beans for a while (no reason other than too many roasters to try) but they were the first proper fresh beans I ordered, thanks to recommendations on here when I first joined, and never failed to please. It'll be like visiting an old friend, or putting on an old pair of boots! Can't wait (but I'm not running out!) ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  4. It isn't anything to worry about really. The classic has the solenoid which results in a drier puck, whereas for example, machines with an E61 group, if you go from pumping straight to exhaust, there can be excess water left in the basket. On my R58 I generally stop the pump a couple of seconds before target output is reached, before pushing the lever all the way to exhaust. This wastes less water and also results in a drier puck. But either way, it's not really a sign of anything wrong as long as you're enjoying ther drinks. ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  5. Loving this! Still dialling in but it's delicious already. 19>42 in 35" has a nice fruity acidity and complex lower notes. Can't decide what of yet, and need to play (only had 2 shots) but I'm very pleased. Thanks guys and happy Christmas! ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  6. It's a number of factors. Handle shape. Quality of materials. (Applies primarily to the blade steel but also handle). Quality of fit and finish. Blade geometry, shape etc. Balance. Above all, suitability for purpose - you want to make sure the knife you buy is appropriate for what you/ they want to use it for. Note that 'Japanese' knives may feature western blade shapes and/or Japanese handles. There are a myriad of traditional Japanese blade designs that have specific purposes in Japanese cuisine. Many of these are single-sided (especially sashimi knives like yanagiba or sujihiki) and are not ideal for normal western use. For general use, a gyuto (chef's knife), santoku (multi purpose), and a petty/office (small utility or paring use) are the main useful shapes to look for. A nakiri (vegetable knife) is also a good thing to have, but in many ways if you have a gyuto or santoku then a nakiri is not strictly necessary. Still I use mine a lot. Most of these are available with J or western handles. Personally I favour the feel (and aesthetic) of the eastern style. A lot of people rate 'Global' but their small tapered handles aren't for everyone, and to me they slightly miss the traditional J blacksmith look. Which of course is subjective and won't matter to some. Budget for a Japanese knife could be anywhere from say £75 to £1000+. Bigger knives unsurprisingly cost more than smaller ones in the same range, but some ranges are more expensive for a petty than the biggest in a 'lesser' range. Some cutlers only make a few shapes in each range. A reasonable gyuto of say 20-25cm with decent steel might cost £180 for example. There are a great many different steels to choose from. Some are rust resistant, but many (high carbon) are not and need plenty of care. There's VG10, SG2 powdered steel, Aogami (blue paper steel, named for the paper that particular steel is wrapped in at the foundry), Shirogami (white paper steel), and they often come in #1 or #2 depending on quality. There are many others besides - you'll have to do a bit of research. Typically, Japanese knives are thinner in the blade, and also harder and more brittle than German or other euro knives. Also, J knives are usually sharpened to 15° per edge, compared to 20° for western blades. A double-sided blade (desirable for general use) will therefore be a total angle of 30° compared to 40°+ on a European blade. This is also related to the thin blade width and hard but brittle construction. Japanese steels are often Rockwell (hardness) of around 63, compared to late 50s for Zwillings and Wusthofs (both respected European knives) They can be brought to incredible sharpness, but are often that much more difficult to sharpen. You can't use a normal 'steel' to correct an edge, as the blade is harder than the rod. To sharpen you need a set of water stones, or diamond or ceramic sharpening system, and can also polish the edge with a leather strop. ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  7. Oops sorry! Hadn't thought of that, I figured the cat was out of the bag now anyway. Apologies. Can't seem to edit any more, plus I've been quoted. Sorry for being the grinch at Christmas. It's like Darth Vader and Luke Skywalker on Christmas eve. "I know what you've got for Christmas, Luke, pssssss" "But father, how?" "Pfffff... I felt your presents" ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  8. If you can get them out of the box blindfolded then I'll apologise hahaha! [emoji23] ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  9. I do remember the thread as I participated in it. Didn't realise it had got lost. I was going to say JKC in London but I see DSC has beaten me to it. Also you can look at Knives & Tools if you're happy to buy mail order (I think they're based in Holland). I've had 2 knives from them and even the guy in JKC admired my Eden Susumi SG2. https://uk.knivesandtools.eu/en/ct/japanese-knives.htm ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  10. Just picked mine up from Camino del Sortingoffice. Yeah I saw the label. "Noooo, they labelled them" gave way to "Yay, a Yirgacheffe!" I'm so stoked for these. Just got back from visiting the legends that are *Chief Coffee* in Chiswick, who were kind enough to let me play on their LM FB80 this morning. Honduras from Workshop for my flattie. They also have a basement full of pinball... ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  11. I did give serious thought to a Tedium 850 or the later 900 for a capable commuter that wouldn't be top of the thieves steal to order list for when I was working in London. The 850s are all really old now but the later lighter injected 900 can still be found in decent nick for reasonable dough. A bit narrower than a Fazer and longer travel forks, less mental engine, but still not massive weather protection. I've seen some guys use an old CBR600F with bar risers and even 'superbike bars' (I.e. actual handlebars like Renthal instead of clipons)
  12. I'm nearly beanless, are these still 'Dropping" early next week? Ta
  13. I remember the Nuda. Had a test ride of one (not the posh one though). I wanted to love it but it didn't inspire confidence and the riding position meant that unless it was summer you'd get all the weather straight in the chest, much like on a Hardly-Dangerous, only higher off the ground. Still a very cool looking bike though, and I'd quite like to give another one a try to see if I still felt the same about them. Or just get a KTM, which is another itch I'd like to scratch if I had money.
  14. Lots of good advice here. Advanced training, heated grips or heated gloves for sure. Pinlock to help keep your visit from misting up. Definitely need to account for the time it takes to get ready at each end if it really comes down to 15 minutes here and there. I commuted all year on a 2004 Fazer 1000 for many years. It's a great bike for that, and touring. But it's wide and feels tall, so you need a reasonable inside leg measurement (although there was a guy on the Fazer forum who rose like a demon and couldn't get both feet down!) I would also say the lack of full fairing does make a difference if commuting motorways in winter. I found my Fazer was affected by side winds where my mate who still had his FZR600R was not, on a trip to Scotland. I want to recommend the GPz500S as it's a fully faired narrow and light parallel twin with genuine 120mph if needed. Sounds ideal on paper, however I had one and it was unreliable, often dropping to one cylinder, and handled terribly. I currently ride a Street Triple 675R (MK1) which I bought for commuting to replace the Fazer 1000 as it was too big for insane London traffic. The street cuts through traffic like a hot knife through butter. It's the best bike I've had, certainly the most fun. But I wouldn't recommend it for year round commuting. No wind protection, not easy to carry much (under seat pipes can be swapped for a low boy though) and the one weakness in an otherwise excellent and reliable bike (mine has done 33000, 30000 of which by me) is that the electrical system has little headroom for things like heated grips and some guys on the Street forum have had issues with their charging system (reg rec and stator). The 675 triple engine is absolutely fantastic for almost anything though. I've never ridden a Yamaha Tracer but that looks at first glance like an excellent bike for your purposes assuming you got a full A licence first. Maybe the 700 Tracer comes in A2 version? Although I only ever test ride a VFR and ended up buying the Fazer 1000, if I had to pick a commuter now I would definitely look at the VFR. Watch the servicing costs on those though.
  15. Haven't really had much chance to play with this yet, but I have had an aeropress (15 in, Aergrind 1.7, 250g water a minute after boil, inverted, 30g bloom, stir, 6 minutes). I need to try again as this method was quite mellow and full bodied bit lacked fruit for me. As espresso I've tried 18>38 in 40" which was tasty with forward acidity, (straight) and 18>42.5 in 45" which was mellow and comforting with 5oz milk. I know there's more to come if I can find it! ___ Eat, drink and be merry
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