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DavecUK

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DavecUK last won the day on November 27

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About DavecUK

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  • Location
    Byfleet, Surrey
  • Interests
    Coffee, Roasting,Chemistry, Physics, Biology, Electronics, Computers, Vintage Electronics, Mechanics
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  1. Don't worry any more and try to keep the machine at that angle, unless it's very noticeable.
  2. Scale is reversible and your plans to change water formulation seem wise.
  3. Or the group not level with the plane of the machine you checked.
  4. You shouldn't really be descaling but citric acid if you must..
  5. Is it the same bag of roast coffee or a different batch?
  6. Yup, I love the Meross plugs, all mine have been great and it's the only type I buy.
  7. A point I've always tried to get across for the Niche is that in 5 ish years depending on consumption e.g. even 1kg per month purging 3g per time, the grinder will have paid for itself in saved coffee and you could effectively throw it away without loosing money.
  8. Surprised it took 40 mins to sell, thought it would be faster. I guess people must be out and about even though we're in lockdown 🙄 As for holding value, I suppose the burrs are just run in nicely by now with 700 odd Kg of life left in them! As for the cost per shot, almost nothing because of no requirement to purge a few g of coffee each time. P.S. Just realised, it sold in 16m <lol>
  9. Wet the fitting before sliding the tubes on, the water eventually evaporates, unlike lubricant.
  10. You want the resistance figure really....it's going to be 40-48 ohms ish depending on heating element power. I'm sure an ohmmetter on each heating element terminal will show a correct resistance...it would even if there was a big hole in the sheath. The problem you will have is accurately measuring earth leakage from the element, especially as this is a very low resistance value if an RCD is tripping and at meter test voltages of 9V, may not even be measurable!
  11. Inspection of the element is critical, usually there will be some surface defect where moisture is entering the sheath, wetting the MgO inside and providing conduction from the inner part of the element to the earthed outer sheath. Running it without an earth allows it to heat and "drive" the moisture out....of course it is not something "I" would feel comfortable recommending you try. The other problem is if it's tripping a standard over current breaker or an RCD....with RCD protection becoming ubiquitous, things that would have worked in the past, often no longer work so well today. A b
  12. I don't steam very often, but If I was...My steam jug would live under the steam wand...just to catch those odd drips that may happen when a machine is warming up (often a symptom of overtightening at some point). Decades ago it was a very common sight and one of those "habits" that has largely been forgotten by those getting into things now. Funnily enough I prefer compression wands because for "me", they give less trouble than their "no compression" counterparts which can be tightened fully and close the valve by means of spring pressure alone. The compression type, I find if gently use
  13. I wouldn't run the machine without the earth connected. Follow the normal procedures for diagnosing an earth fault and if you suspect the element....remove it, check it and replace it.
  14. Take a photo of the burrs, put it up here, and we can advise based on knowledge of its history and physical appearance.........You may well need new (genuine) burrs.
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