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Everything posted by dsc

  1. How is Osmio which produces water with 25ppm TDS better than Peak which can be used straight away without adding bicarb or some other crap?
  2. So fish smell is back on my filter which has seen 40 refills. Also still have resin beads in the bottom of the filter holder. Just for a test I ordered a two pack of filters, almost £29 delivered :0 think this might be my last filter order, considering I get around 50L only from each.
  3. I've been getting fairly mixed results as well although I only check it every X fills: After 15L: tds 144ppm ph 7.6 After 26L: tds 162ppm ph 6.9 After 32L: tds 138ppm ph 6.4 After 40L: tds 122ppm ph 6.4 No idea why suddenly tds started dropping. I can also see some resin beads in the bottom of the filter holder and get a nasty "wet mop" smell from the filter compartment. Taste wise it's been a mixed bag, early on brews were nice but I have a feeling that now it's gone worse.
  4. Crap that is bad, fishy smell basically indicates that the filter needs changing, unless of course there's a different issue in the manufacturing process and the smell is there due to higher concentration of trymethlamine :/ I got my replacement filter today, only just primed it, so will take notes of tds / ph of filtered water now and keep logging how much water goes through it.
  5. Hardest is zero bypass, all water goes through the filter, which is why it uses it up the quickest. But it really isn't going to work for a lot of people if you need a new filter every 2-3 weeks, at £12.50 a pop. I'm a fairly average user anyway, so using 2-3l per day tops, the issue is that you don't just brew with your boiled water, you rinse filters, warm up vessels etc. If it's that expensive to use the Peak then you'd need a separate, ordinary water kettle for all those non-brewing tasks and this isn't very practical.
  6. Btw what is the cost of a new filter? Our tap water is 265ppm / 7.2ph (no idea on other parameters need to order a kit) which is high but not yet liquid rock imho. I'm running the Peak at setting 4 even though the strip test indicated that I should be using 3, but Maxwell suggested those are typically low and to bump it up a notch. I'll be honest, I still prefer my BWT Mg filter to the Peak, if I have to switch out filters every 40-50l which is roughly 2-3 weeks, I'll probably just stay with the BWT.
  7. Got a reply from Maxwell: "That fish smell is trymethlamine which is a compound used in strong base resins and is noticeable at the end of life of filters. " So yes, the filter seems to be at the end of it's life. I've thought some more re how much water I pushed through it and it's probably closer to 50l. If every filter is like this I'll either have to have less coffee made using water from the Peak or give it up altogether :/
  8. BWT should last up to 150l I think, but with my 260ppm TDS water they give up at around 100l. Just checked and the Peak gives water which is 185ppm, so still fairly legit. Cold water from it now also started to stink of fish...Checked the bottom of the jug and only found a few tiny black balls, so I think the filter is whole at least.
  9. @StusBrews damn, that's pretty bad. I've not even thought of checking the water as I barely got 30l through it :/ I've dropped Maxwell an email an hour or so ago, but I reckon I'll be getting a new filter based on what you've said. Off to check what the filtered water TDS is...
  10. Anyone noticed any weird smells from their boiled Peak water? Mine was fine early on but now whenever I boil the water from the Peak it smells of fish :/ like, the whole kitchen smells of it. Cold is fine, no odd smells, but boiled is fishy as hell, no idea what it might be. T.
  11. Holy shit it was 2015 I though the first time I mentioned it was around 2-3 years ago.
  12. I've not really done many experiments, at first I was assuming that just preheating the basket would be enough, but the sad reality is that it's not. The basket hasn't got a lot of mass and so doesn't retain a lot of heat, it's warm to the touch after dose prep, you could say that it's almost pointless heating it up in the first place. Piston on the other hand isn't light or thin, so it makes sense to heat it up imho, but it's kind of a bitch to get to (it only sticks out half an inch when lowered). Paul Pratt recently said on his IG account that he doesn't bother with any heat ups and using
  13. I also heat up the piston as I find it brews too cool with lighter roasts. Bit of a faff but doable, I fill a glass with boiling water, stick the basket and PF in it whilst I grind. Then take the basket out of the water, dry, fill, distribute, tamp, paper filter on top, shower screen on top, drop the whole thing in the PF. Then stick the glass with water under the piston and lower it, so that it's submerged, after that the basket gets filled with boiling water, glass comes out from under the piston, PF gets locked and it's ready to pull a shot.
  14. I'm not asking anyone to do anything, I'm only sharing what I've found kind of by mistake (someone from HB suggested stacking different grind size layers in a basket to get 25% EY extractions and for some reason I remembered it as regrinding coffee). It might make your coffee better or worse, I've got no idea as I haven't done enough testing with this. Even if it turns out to make my cup better, doesn't mean everyone is going to like it as the resulting cup might have characteristics which are not great for others. If someone tries this and it helps them or they learn something then great.
  15. I'm talking large conics, not all conics. The 19% comments are coming from people who used them in cafes and are mostly from ages ago (and were for espresso not brewed). Where are all those large conics now if they are so outstanding? Especially for brewed. Imho you are comparing apples to oranges clashing small hand grinders with large conicals. How many large commercial grinders have you experimented with and compared to hand grinders? How many brewed coffees have you tried from 71mm conicals? How many 19%+ EY coffees from 71mm conicals have you tasted that you are so damn sure they taste a
  16. So you don't single dose? I assumed you single dose on a Niche which has close to zero retention, so why the need for correcting dose? If you do single dose, try grinding directly to basket, tamping and pulling a shot on a naked PF.
  17. Perhaps it's personal preference but I just don't like brewed coffee from the 71mm conical, may as well be my technique but I've tried a Commandante a few times at a friends house and that was definitely much better in terms of taste and clarity. On the other hand, how many brew bars have you see with a range of conical grinders? I have only ever seen them used for espresso and heard many times that the highest you can push them even in that arrangement is 19%, anything above that tastes bad. As for why can't a larger burr achieve the same thing as a smaller hand grinder - different cut, geom
  18. It has a wiper for the funnel. Have you played a lot with single dosed grinders and pulling shots grinding straight to a basket, tamping and pulling shots? It is really easier to experience this than to explain.
  19. It might be just me, but I always assumed it's all over the place particle wise at coarser settings. It just seems to chuck out loads of dust and boulders at the same time and stalls brews (ie. I'm at 19% EY and don't want to go finer as the taste is already silty). Even for espresso it's very hard to force it to make anything above 19% EY spro and I think this was always a fact for conics.
  20. You can grind straight into a portafilter and pull a reasonable shot, I don't think this would work on any other single dosed gravity fed grinder (I've only tried it on a flat Major and it was terrible without premixing grinds).
  21. Size is different, cut might be different. I find the 71mm conical burrset terrible for brewed, perfectly fine for espresso though.
  22. Yes I was following similar logic, I already played with the idea of stacking two conical burrsets on top of each other, but decided it's not worth pursuing (and it's bloody expensive). I think if you go coarse enough at the start, then the second grind shouldn't have any issues ie. you won't clog up your burrset and overload the motor. The setting I'm using for espresso on the second grind is actually very close to what I was using when experimenting with single bean dosing, so I kind of have a feeling that spoon feeding the coarse grind produces less fines overall.
  23. The whole idea was to try smth different, as the grind difference is huge for espresso. It's all about learning or trying to understand why this happens. As for Versalab, imho they do it as they realised early on that single dosing a grinder isn't perfect, so they fitted a pre-breaking cut-down conical burr (it's missing the fine burr section) to pre-grind coffee before it enters the flat burrs.
  24. What grinder are you using Mark? V60 or smth else? From the very limited amount of brews I've done (two V60s today), I don't think the impact is as big for brewed as it is for espresso. Also I kind of have a hunch that smaller hand grinders are very different to large conicals.
  25. Ground coffee back into the hopper with beans? Wtf, who does this?
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