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jpt198

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About jpt198

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Devon, UK
  • Interests
    Coffee! Surfing, reading, snowboarding, walking
  • Occupation
    Marine Scientist
  • Twitter Account
    @jtinker_nz

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  1. Hi all, Thanks DavecUK, those guides are fantastic! I've learnt more in one evening than with all the other reading I've done! thanks! it must of been a huge amount of work putting them together. I have used the 2 spoon trick to clean behind my shower screen. I will order the E61 kit from bellabarista once they're open post corona. I have had another look, and have worked out how take off the back wall (where the relay and gicar is mounted). I was then able to work out which of the two was making the horrible buzzing sound - the relay, see video later. The element resista
  2. PS, nailed my nutating distribution this week - great!
  3. Hi All, I've finally sourced and fitted an equivalent safety valve - so now have removed the insulation, cleaned the water level probe, descaled it, replaced the safety valve. This weekend, I'm going to see if I can remove the metal wall behind the boiler, that the gicar sits on - to see if I can test the relay is working correctly, and get under the boiler. DavecUK I'm still a little unclear about what you meant in a few of your recommendations. What do you mean by E61 needing going through? do you mean change the shower screen and gasket? or take it apart? To clean
  4. Hey DavecUK, Thanks for this, but unfortunately, I don't think it is for this one - attached is a photo of it unscrewed I guess I might be able to get a converter though - not thought of that, thanks Jon
  5. Hi, I've made a bit more progress this easter, but its a bit one step forwards, two steps backwards! Yesterday I cleaned the boiler level sensor probe (didn't think it was too bad, see pics), and tried to replace the safety OPV valve, but unfortunately, it was the wrong size (ordered the 3/8 inch, when I think it should be 1/4 inch). I also played around with measuring some of the electronics (voltage across the replay, impedance of the element, voltage across the element) but need to do these properly again. Today I have given it a good descale. I'll let you know how
  6. Hi, Sounds like a bargain, and a very satisfying repair job! I know that this is almost 10 years old, but I wondered if you had any pics the various stages? I saw the a couple of external pics on your flickr (with some other beautiful pics!). I think I have a quite a bit strip down, clean and rebuild job for my izzo alex mk2, so was having a hunt for related posts! cheers! Jon
  7. Good Morning, Rereading your list, I think I'll have to try and do it bit at a time. I've removed the insulation, and taken some photos (see attached). I've turned it on and heated it up and seems to be working again (GICAR wires in the correct place!). There don't seem to be any leaks, although the newly (last year) installed anti-vac valve splutters a bit before sealing - I understand this is what its meant to do. Can I check that this (yellow box in photo Safety_valve_that_needs_replacing.jpg) is the safely valve that you mean? I think its out of stock at bella barista (https://w
  8. Hi, Wow, thanks for all your insights! Sounds like a scary amount to do/replace/buy! I bought off the forums in about 2017. From looking back though my emails, I think it might have been in the midlands before me. I replaced the anti-vac valve last year (with help from you and the forum - https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/46159-replacing-a-anti-vacuum-valve-on-an-izzo-alex-mark-2/). I took very careful notes of how the gicar was wired, and photos, before disconnecting it! I have rewired it and put it back (It was tricky holding the nut for the bolt!). It sounds like I shoul
  9. Hi DavecUK, all, Thanks for your reply. I've inserted some pics to give you an idea of what the machine looks like inside. I've not annotated most pics as I'm not really sure what most parts are, and I'm not really trying to point out anything. I've named them to show what you're looking at though. You mentioned the level switch in your initial reply - thats its to tell the water level in the boiler? I guess it's the probe within the yellow box in the pic Possible_level_sensor.jpg?? this appears to be attached to a white with blue cable... its connector for the gicar looks ok. can
  10. Finally had a chance to look inside. Gicar in original position. Brown, but looks ok on the inside. I don't think I can move it right now. The connections all look good. Thought they might be corroded. Could open the top of the gicar, but get to the circuit boards (though I might be able to spot a bad component). Still works generally, so don't think one of the components have blown - guess it wouldn't work at all of that was the case. Don't think it's the water tank sticking, as it would beep if that was the prob. Not sure which is the level switch. Will have a look. Anyway,
  11. Hey DavecUK, Thanks for your reply! I have only just had a chance to read your attachment, and not had a chance to open my machine up yet. Hopefully you're right, and its something simple. Its been playing up since.. taking a long time to turn on. sometimes, its on, but no lights and heat, but the pump works when you lift the brew handle. Hopefully I'll get to open it up this weekend... Ill keep you posted! Cheers! Jon
  12. Happy Lock Down Saturday! Hope everyone is well. with a baby, I'm not used to having time on my hand, but a housebound weekend changes all that! I'm lock down ready, with a kg of local beans delivered just before lockdown, and milk from the milkman... Until Friday morning, when the unthinkable happened! Came downstairs to find the machine cold! I checked the smart plug, fuse, water level (won't start with low water, but beeps) and still no power... luckly I grabbed the aeropress before the office was locked down... Later, the red (heating) light was flickering, and there was a b
  13. Thanks guys, The PTFE tap worked well. Not looked for the oral b yet! Thanks
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