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El carajillo

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  1. The nut on the solenoid valve can be tight, one way to hold without a vice is to screw it to a piece of wood (depending on what you use, ifit is a small board etc, stand on it OR gate post / fence post) ( local garage ?) Using D-scaler may make matters worse by moving scale particles into the Sol/ valve (possibly what the problem is now) = no flow. PS the nut is 18 or 19 mm. Does the steam valve drip from the wand ? does it leak from the 'blackened 'part = seal worn. The wand is a very common leak point. If you fit a new one do NOT tighten up the two fixing bolts until you have centred the spindle in the hole in the case!! otherwise the knob will rub on the case.
  2. Not familiar with the machine ut from white patches it looks like you have a problem with limescale. From the position it looks like you could possibly have a leak from the steam tap / valve and the water runs down the back. Try running it open to see if you can see the leak.
  3. I suspect the ones you have are 'pattern' burrs. The genuine Mazzer burrs should say MAZZER 33 M on the back.
  4. The OEM Mazzer burrs will be fine, the 'pattern' burrs are no where near as good, I would suspect that for your purpose the SSP Red Speed will be overkill.
  5. Is the loom badly damaged ? If not why change it, Is the thermal fuse OK, can you / have you tested it ? Probably easier to splice in a short piece of cable if there is only slight damage. Do you have a test meter ? ( cheap one will do) Is the plug fuse and lead OK ? A photo of inside machine would help. Was there an initial problem ? OTHER TOPIC. Are you sure the pump is faulty ? OR is it not getting power ? What was the original problem ? Try to keep the problems to one post, it makes it easier to follow and see what has been done / changed/ suggested.
  6. Can you change the nipple in for a 3/8" to 1/8", possibly more available ? The one screwed into the M/ch. Try gas fitter's, gas fire suppliers and caravan sales, possibly better chance?
  7. NAH just put the coffee beans in the wrong place.
  8. I have a Verona/ E61 and even using Volvic I still de-scale (and it still needs it). Yesterday I took the panels off to give a good clean and do a visual inspection of all innards and connections, all OK, removed the level probe just for a check, showing start of light scaling. I seem to recall reading an article where some boilers have a treatment applied and should not be de-scaled. I cannot recall the article but another member may chip in. It would be interesting to hear from Rocket as to why the boilers should not be de-scaled and how to overcome the scaling problem, it would appear the special filters are not preventing this problem.
  9. Can you remove the two boiler terminals and then connect your meter (set to ohms) to the terminals and take a reading, make a note of this. Also (if you can access the terminals) test between a terminal and the boiler case or good earth, repeat on other terminal to boiler case, again note the reading and report back. What is the water like in Brighton ?? very hard ?. If the water is hard and you are using a Brita filter the boiler / element is likely to be heavily scaled. How often do you cahange the filter ??
  10. I think your problem is that you prefer the more controlled steaming with the partially blocked tip ? You should clean the tip far more frequently, try using "teepees" after steaming ,(these are for cleaning between teeth) Alternatively change for a single hole tip. Preferably persevere and master using the clean two hole tip.
  11. The only stupid question is the one you do not ask
  12. Usually funnels fit inside the portafilter basket= you cannot tamp through the funnel
  13. The end plates and other fittings are bronze welded together (an alloy) This is an adhesion weld as distinct from a fusion weld if it was copper. The bronze weld is more easily accomplished at a lower temperature than the fusion copper weld which requires the copper components to be at melting point
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