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About customcoffee

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  1. im at abit of a loss with its previous life as ive had it stored away here that long i dont have any history on it. i know the fracino dual fuels ive had have always been super good - stone cold to 1.1bar in about 20 minutes. and most of the astorias ive dealt with have been the smae apart from the odd few. now i cant decide if thats because thats how they are designed or if theres a problem. there was scale build up in the diphragm which has been removed - still no different. the diphragm itself seems ok but without something to compare with its hard to say wether its hardened or not. i want to run it at home in my outdoor bbq area so ideally id like it to run solely off gas - the machine doesnt even have an autofill system fitted. the regulator i speak of is the one on the machine that sits inlin eiwth the gas supply and the burner. There are 3 connections - gas in, gas out and connection for pipe to bottom of site glass (to the diaphragm). When i look on jag it appears that it is the same one they stock part number jag5039 the flames just seem so poor and half hearted. other dual fuels ive worked on before have roared away whilst heating. ill get some pics tonight when it gets darker as its currently in my garden and too sunny for the flames to show up how would a different jet react? ie would smaller jet mean smaller flame or vice versa? the one currently fit is stamped 085
  2. Hi guys, so entering month 3 of furlough ive decided to pull some old machines out of the garage to tinker on with i have an old 2003 dual fuel lever Astoria 2 group. i have some problems with the one of the lever groups which i should be able to sort out. my main issue is with the gas burner. it just appears so slow! now ive worked with loads of dual fuel machines in the past and always noticed that they come up to pressure in approx 20 minutes - this one is taking about 50-60 minutes!! ive gone down all the obvious routes, ie ive cleaned the jet out, cleaned the burner and checked the pipework for any restrictions - retried and still taking an age! i then dismantled the gicar gas regulator and found a fair bit of scale in there around the diaphragm. i thought id sorted it but alas still no better! im stuck as to were to go from here. it just seems so strange that it takes so long. the flame is blue but very small, adjusting the pin on the gas regulator doesnt seem to do much either. its currently connected up to propane bottle with 37mBar regulator. im wondering if it should maybe be connected to butane? would this make a difference as long as butance bottle was connected with butane regulator? my last thought is maybe that this i sjust the way these machines were designed to be back in the day??
  3. https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-kitchen-appliances/fracino-dual-fuel-lpg-coffee-espresso-machine-3-years-old/1362174552
  4. Hold down finger in top left hand side of touchpanel for about 4 seconds, a keypad will come up asking for code, type in ‘7913000’ or ‘70130000’ (I forget which), this will give you access to the tech settings. Go into settings and on top left corner and you will see a counter for filter.
  5. Hi, long shot but i was wondering if anyone could help me out sourcing a main back panel (curvy bottom) for a 2011 CMA Perla??
  6. Amazing condition Fracino dual fuel machine, semi automatic. All the details with pictures and videos can be found here ...https://www.gumtree.com/p/restaurant-catering-equipment/dual-fuel-immaculate-commercial-espresso-coffee-machine-fracino-mobile-catering-lpg-gas-electric-/1292007146 Listed for sale at £1895, realistically looking for £1700 ono.
  7. i recently went to a similar machine with the same symptoms. On initial assessment the fill solenoid valve was working fine, as was the level probe and autofill system. the problem turned out to be a split in the machines heat exchangers, caused by water icing up and splitting them. as the heat exchangers are permanently supplied with water before the autofill sysytem it was causing the machine to over fill (water leaking from heat exchanger into boiler) even though fill valve was closed. i really hope this isnt the case for you as it is probably the worst case scenario.
  8. or just remove right hand side panel (simply pulls off) and locate element. You will notice it has 4 connections (2 x live and 2 x neutral) you should notice 2 wires coming from the pressure stat to the heating element and then a link wire connects one leg of the element to the above it. Simply remove the link wires and your machine will be running at half power. will heat up/recover noticeably slower than it is at the moment though obviously make sure machine is switched off before hand.
  9. on the main screen hold your finger down in the top left hand corner for a few seconds, a box will appear asking for a pin, enter 111111 and you will be able to access the settings
  10. I thought i must of wrote this thread myself when i saw it as i live exactly in between Selby/Doncaster/Pontefract/Goole! I am a service engineer so have visited pretty much all of the places that there is to visit in the area and unfortunately I am still on the quest for somewhere decent! If you are ever passing through Eggborough you are more than welcome to pop into the workshop, i always have something on the bench that we can use, for testing purposes of course!
  11. hi Shady, sorry for bringing up an old thread but I have a quick question regarding the Pompei if you dont ind me asking? I have the option to buy one and went to have a look the other day, what is putting me off is the steam valves. I have had a few Elektras and a couple of San Marco machines in the past which use a lever method for activating the steam as opposed to a knob which you would turn, and on all these machines the lever has also snapped into position allowing me two free hands to hold the milk pitcher. However on this Pompei i looked at the levers had to be held in place manually with one hand, and as soon as you let go it would snap back into the off position. I was just wondering if this is standard for this model or if on your machine you was able to open the steam valve and leave it open without holding it? Thank you Shady, any help greatfully apprecaated cc
  12. Hi James, usually two common suspects if you are getting no water at all through the group head; No1: Faulty solenoid valve. The coils that operate the solenoid valve to allow the flow of water from the group head can often fail. It is a simple like for like swap. A fairly simple way to test for this is to operate the group head via the switch and you should instantly hear a notable 'click'. This is the nucleus inside the solenoid engaging to allow flow, if you don't hear it chances are the coil is faulty. No2: Blocked filter and jet within the group head. If you remove the chrome nut on top of the group head you should see a small cylindrical mesh filter, and inside here is a jet (basically a small bolt with a drilled hole through it) the hole is very small and can often be blocked up easily by scale and crap. remove it with a 7mm(i think) socket, descale/clean/poke through with a paper clip. There are of course other reasons, you could have power issues, blockages elsewhere etc etc but in my experience these are the most common 2 reasons, and fairly simple to rectify too. Make sure your machine is unplugged, and cold before attempting any repairs!! Good luck!
  13. Ebay mate, it's a fairly generic part. Search for anti vacuum valve 1/4"
  14. actually sorry may of jumped the gun here, which part exactly is the steam/water coming from??
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