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Paolo5

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About Paolo5

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    Tamper Master
  1. Thanks, ashcroc. You could be spot-on there. Time will tell. I will be very wary of the chaff collecting in the drawer after the next roast or two.
  2. Hi Hasi, Thanks for that information. I cleaned the vent motor and surround not too long ago but it will do it again tomorrow. I haven't checked inside the CA damper duct (ever)...so that is obviously long overdue. I will start up the roaster tomorrow and try the damper opening/closing as you suggested.
  3. I just finished doing 2 roasts with my Dalian. Whilst the roaster was cooling down, I opened the drawer to the chaff collector and had a big surprise. The last roast was a Yirgacheffe, which is always very 'chaffy'...but this is the first time that the chaff has actually had smouldering bits in it. The whole top layer was burnt...underneath was the usual brown chaff. I feel that it could have been quite dangerous...and that I was lucky that the chaff didn't actually ignite. The thing is, I didn't do anything different to the other 170 roasts that I have done with my Dalian. The only difference is that now I have a 100mm flue connected via an adaptor. It could be that I simply had too much chaff in the tray before I started roasting today. I normally empty the tray after each session (2-4 roasts)...There was perhaps the chaff from 4 roasts in there before I did the 2 today..so possibly 6 roasts altogether.4 Has anyone else had this happen? Any ideas what I did wrong?
  4. Thanks for that, Paul!
  5. I have just finished 3 roasts with the 4" flu installed. As the flue is construced with a wire embedded into the aluminium material and spiralling along the flue's length, the end really doesn't want to compress from its 4" to the smaller diameter Dalian flange. I tried several times and settled after nipping the 'spine' in several places in the end (to break its 4" integrity a bit) that I was trying to mate up to the Dalian flange. In order to tighten the hose clamp enough to have the flue remain in place, it meant that the aluminium tore each time... resulting in a smoke leak. I threw a coffee bean bag over the leak help keep the smoke inside the flu. There must be a more effective way of doing this...but I can't think of it. HELP!! Any ideas? Does Dalian make the correct size flange for a 4" flue? I perservered with the smoke and the roasting anyway and found that (for the same beans/quantity/settings that I always start a roast) the ROR was a bit higher (1C) than with the OE flue. The roasting temperature tended to increase more readily in general. I found myself making more adjustments to the 'Cooling Air' to reduce the ROR than with the OE flue. During the 3rd roast I was able to control the ROR that was getting away from me a bit by using the power control that I installed a few years back. It was kind of like driving a different car for the first time..the inputs are similar...but different. The roasts all look really good. The proof will be in the tasting.
  6. I will see what I can do.
  7. Many thanks, Hasi. That's what I thought but it is great to have another opinion. I will roast a few batches with the new flu on Thursday and see for myself what differences it makes.
  8. What differences should I expect, Dave?
  9. I am just about to fit a 4" flu to my Dalian. I bought a 4 metre length of tubing. Is there an optimal length and orientation in its positioning? Until now, I have just popped the OE flu through a gap in a sliding window and the flu remains in a vertical position whilst roasting. Will I notice any difference in roast times/responsiveness etc. with the larger diameter flu?
  10. A Cremina was my first lever. They punch way-above their weight as far as quality shots in the cup. You need to develop definite temperature management skills if you want more than 3 cups in a row. A real bonus is their relative portability. You could do much worse!
  11. I remember at the time that local car accessory places (in Australia) stocked them too. Good luck!
  12. It was just an Ebay purchase:- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/60pc-Hydraulic-Grease-Nipple-Metric-Assortment-Mechanical-Lubricant-Fittings-M6/122417104292?hash=item1c80a0c5a4:g:NkMAAOSw1SdbvGt2&frcectupt=true
  13. The angled grease nipple just screwed into my Dalian. It has an M6x1 metric thread.
  14. Thanks for that Paul. It just adds meaning to that old addage about there being "more than one way to skin a cat". My power meter instructions specify that my unit is for measuring/checking only, so I think that I will calibrate a few lines radial to the power control knob that equate to a few wattage settings... and try that. The electricity supply to my house is very stable at 2500W (+or- 10W) and 235volts (+or- 5 volts). My best results for a 1kg load are achieved when I start with both rods set at 5cm out. Once the turn-around temperature has been reached and a new sample minute has elapsed, I try to keep the ROR at around 6C for each minute (1C for each 10 seconds). To achieve this, I push the CA rod inwards in small increments when the ROR exceeds 6C per minute. Once 1st crack gets under way, I use the power controller to reduce the intensity of the heating element...again trying to contain the ROR to 6C per minute. I also push the CA rod in to help...and pull out the SD rod slightly as well. I have been getting fabulous results using this method. Very happy with this roaster!
  15. Hi Paul, I have done the power control modification on my Dalian over a year ago now. I use the controller for each roast but... to date, only when 1st crack has started. It works really well this way. I would like to know more about how you use your controller.. Have you marked the 1800W and 1500W points on the roaster around the controller's knob so that you know when the heaters are drawing the desired amount of power? Do you move the controlling air slides at all when roasting with the power controller? If not, what settings do you leave the slides at? It would be great to see one of your typical roasting charts showing settings. Paolo
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