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MrShades

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About MrShades

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    Terry Wogan's latte art is better than mine

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    Wiltshire
  • Interests
    I'm on here - take a guess...
  • Occupation
    Take people for lunch, and extract money from them
  • Twitter Account
    shadenville

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  1. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TVM875H/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_N6M6Db6SWZSPC
  2. He gets around a bit - and is often local to many people! @coffeechap can often be found a little way east of Gablecross... I’m in Abbey Meads - good evening and welcome! Where are you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Sorry, I only do a kit for the Classic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Greetings from Swindon, and welcome to CFUK! As others have said, it's probably better to go for a Classic (used, pre 2015 version if possible) and spend more on a better grinder. It's the usual "garbage in, garbage out" situation - and if you start off with sub-par ground coffee, then you can only ever expect sub-par espresso out.... so the better the grinder, the better the results. I've personally had great espresso from an old Gaggia Classic - and it only gets better when you add a PID and are using coffee ground in a £1K+ grinder. You won't gain anything from the Silvia over the Classic, and you'll have less spare for a good grinder.... so go for a good used Classic, and get a much better (ex commercial?) grinder.
  5. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Gaggia-Coffee-Machine-Boiler-120V-230V-Classic-Baby-Dose-Evolution-P/1568024108?iid=202790885308
  6. or, initially, just remove one of the connections from the steam thermostat (on top of the boiler) - this will stop the machine heating up, but everything else will (probably) work.....
  7. Netflix ‘Dark’ Quite strange, pretty good though - did Season 1 last week and just started season 2, which is getting even stranger! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. That system seems odd... Firstly, RO systems are typically very inefficient when it comes to water wastage. The more efficient ones are pumped high pressure systems. That one isn't pumped and hence really cant be that efficient unless it's only producing a few drips of water now and again (but it seems to operate purely as an inline filter, with no storage tank, and yet still produces a steady stream of water from the filter tap). It seems to be one of these: https://www.pure-pro.com/ro202.htm User manual: http://www.purepro.info/pdf/RO202.pdf ...and this is the replacement "RO" membrane: https://www.pure-pro.com/tw30-1812-200.htm The spec of the membrane states that at 80PSI (UK average is around 2bar or 28PSI) it'll have 15% recovery - which I assume means 85% wastage. However, I can see on the install diagrams that it has some clunky tap adaptor for the incoming water, and a fairly standard 'filtered water tap' for the output water - I don't see ANY waste water connection or outlet anywhere. Seems VERY odd for an RO system. Perhaps I'm missing something, or this is some sort of very clever system that produces zero waste and hence doesn't require a waste connection - but it seems odd.
  9. Keep going ... it’s all a good learning process! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Oh, and the steam wand and group won’t necessarily give water at the same time. Without the steam button pressed you should find that when you hit the brew button water comes out of the group. If you then also open the steam valve you may also find that water comes out of the steam wand. With the steam button pressed, if you open the steam valve immediately and press the brew button then you’ll get water from the steam valve. If you turn the brew button off and close the steam valve then it’ll heat up to steam temp and you’ll then have steam available out of the steam wand (without hitting the brew switch). If you have the steam button on and just hit the brew switch then you won’t get water from anywhere (it’ll flow from the OPV back into the tank) unless you open the steam valve and get water out of it. HTH Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. For taking the solenoid valve apart you want mole grips to hold the bottom part and a spanner on the nut at the bottom of the ‘pillar’ - it’s normally quite hard to turn! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. LOL - it cant be THAT bad, nothing with a Classic is that bad! Did the switchbank actually break or just come apart? If you remove the central steel rod that runs through it then it tends to explode under the pressure of the many springs that are inside it. They’re complex little beasts but usually unless the plastic has broken then you can put them back together again (if it’s just the rod that has come out). Anything else gone horribly wrong? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. It probably will blow it out of the water.... BUT it'll probably also be 2-3x the price of even a new Classic Pro (and more like 10x the price of a used Classic), which is a significant consideration for most people in the usual Gaggia Classic vs Silvia dilemma.
  14. Sounds like a plan! Although one thing I would recommend is doing everything in stages... so strip it all down and clean it all, and change the seals - and then put it back together again (as standard) and ensure everything works again as it should.... and only once you’re sure it’s all still working properly then embark on the PID install. If you do it this way then it’ll be much easier to fault find if you have issues. If you strip it, clean it and change seals, and fit the PID at the same time - and something then doesn’t work properly afterwards, it’ll be a nightmare to try and fault find as you’ll have changed so many things in one go. Try and reduce the variables and do it in stages. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Shipped.... that was a bit quicker than "end of October" (I'd still got the listing set to "10 days shipping" from when I last went on holiday - have changed it now).
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