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MrShades last won the day on July 19

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About MrShades

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    Terry Wogan's latte art is better than mine

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    I'm on here - take a guess...
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    Take people for lunch, and extract money from them
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  1. Hmmmmmm. The Sonoff device only switches one power feed (live) whereas the rocker switch does both live and neutral. Hence you’ll ideally need to leave the rocker on at all times and then control with sonoff or external WiFi switch. You could try permanently connecting the two outer most wires on the power switch (top and bottom) so that neutral is permanently on; and then you should be able to turn on with sonoff or power switch. Turning on would require either (rocker or sonoff) to be on; turning off would require both to be off. I’ve not tried this but I thin
  2. Not too sure of that logic.... it's like buying a £2000 mountain bike or a £2000 car. Much less to go wrong on the bike, but does that make it better? If your initial intention was to travel 20 miles to work and back then the car is infintely better! If your intention is to make good espresso with a Classic, well... mods are pretty unavoidable - and it's always cheaper to get a machine pre-modded than to do it yourself.
  3. You'll probably need to cut the water delivery pipe - from pump to boiler - but you'll have to be certain that the ends are tightly fixed into that T piece. You'll then need some additional silicone tubing to connect to the output of the OPV, to route the 'spare' water back into the tank. In my experience, these valves need to be almost fully extended in order to provide 9bar - and at that point the spring in them is so loose that they dump all of your steam pressure out of the OPV too. Just be warned. Good luck!
  4. What you’ve done looks ok - so you’re using the internal sonoff with some other WiFi smartswitch - or are you just using the sonoff? To be honest, after my post (above yours) about the mod to change the power switch to a proper on/off rocker - and hence (if you do that) the ability to simply control the maxhine with a WiFi smart switch in the usual way - I wasn’t really expecting many people to go down this more complicated and less effective route ;-) The issue with the sonoff internally is that you can turn the machine on - but can’t turn it off (which is why you need an additional WiFi sw
  5. That’s correct - but it has little to do with the reading on that machine. As I said, it’s showing the machine is set to 8 bar (9barg if you want) - which is obviously lower than 9 bar. It’s also not what most other users found (most found it set to about 11.5-12bar, as with the current Classic - which is not huge surprise as it’s the same valve). Anyway, I’m bored of this - it’s heading the same way as usual. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I know about that post. I read it when it was first written... and it shows 8 bar :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hahahahaha! These get better and better... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. You forgot about “not being able to easily adjust the OPV to 9 bar on the 2015” as well... :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. There’s the difference - I bet we won’t see many people say that they would buy the 2015 if he chooses the 2004 :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. No contest - keep the 2004, it’s a much better machine inside and out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. No, that’s not your problem - your problem is the thermostat and the fact that the temperature is constantly going up and down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. With a PID you can adjust both the brew temperature and the steam temperature - so you can set the brew temp to be 94.0c (around 102-104 at the boiler) and the steam temp to be 140.0c (around 148-150 at the boiler) - or whatever other temperatures you want to use for brew and steam - and the you just use the machine as normal, pressing the brew button and steam button as you normally would. You adjust thge temperatures yourself with some simple button pressing. If you are crazy, you can always set the PID to a temperature that will kill the thermal fuse on the machine - so you could set
  13. Well, you'll see what the metal temp is - but because the water is inside the boiler and the boiler temp constantly cycles up and down under thermostatic control, the actual water temp that comes out will be more like an average of the values that you see over time. So if you see 110c max and 95c min, you'll probably find that the water is going to be closer to 102.5 (minus around 8-10c for the offset)... so circa 92-94c. If the elements are on, this will be rising, and if they are off it'll be falling. It's not really going to help hugely with the actual temp of the brew water. The hu
  14. Good... well done! Why don’t you want to remove the thermostats and add a PID? If you just want to see the temperature then you should be able to use that thermometer that you linked to in order to give you a good idea of what it is... but a small amount of thermal paste on the side facing the boiler and then strap it firmly to the boiler with a large jubilee clip. Be aware that you want the boiler to be around 8c-10c hotter than the brew water. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. It might be worth you looking at the new plastic OPV that is used on the Classic 2019 / Classic Pro (they’re about £12). I’m guessing that the screw thread is the same on top of the pump - though your output pipe (to the boiler) may (or may not) work on the long plastic nipple on the Classic OPV. It might be an easier swap - for testing purposes... and whilst this one is also fixed at 12ish bar, you can remove the spring and replace it with one of my spring kits for 9 bar or 6.5 bar etc - an extra tenner. Yes, the alternative is to swap the manifold on the boiler to an original Classic bras
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