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MrShades

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MrShades last won the day on January 15

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About MrShades

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    Terry Wogan's latte art is better than mine

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    Wiltshire
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    I'm on here - take a guess...
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    Take people for lunch, and extract money from them
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    shadenville

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  1. I’m working on springs. Don’t do anything drastic just yet - give me a few weeks and I should (hopefully) have at least a 9 bar replacement available. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. After reading through this, I think I need to go and fire mine up and have a play...
  3. Just to add some detail, if you're interested: The green wire - in both cases of the steam and brew switch - is the wire that's switched live (blue wire) when you hit the brew switch or hit the steam switch. The green wire going live is what resets the timer (or tells the timer that the machine is in use). So - by connecting the green and blue permanently, the machine believes that the brew switch is permanently on (even though it's the other pair of connectors behind the brew switch that actually control the pump/solenoid and brew function) and the machine never turns off. The double green connector is directly connected to the green connector on the steam switch - which is why it makes no difference if that is connected or not.
  4. Any idea what the single green wire on the top left of the steam switch does? It seems missing from the US version too. That's the (now completely unnecessary) feedback to the timer, that the machine is in steam mode. On a standard machine, the timer doesn't seem to activate when it's in Steam mode. You can pull it off, or leave it on, and it makes no difference - so just leave it alone.
  5. I've been doing some research recently - and have now managed to quite easily disable the 20min timer on the latest 2018+ Gaggia Classic / Gaggia Classic Pro / Gaggia Classic 2019. Some quick background, and where I started from: The first image below is the switchbank of an EU Gaggia Classic 2018+, which has the timer. The second one is the switchbank of a US "Gaggia Classic Pro" version, that doesn't have the timer - but otherwise is very very similar. The wires used are largely different colours, but there's also two or three connectors that are used on the EU version, but unused on the US one. Curious.... ? So - with quite a bit of digging around, tracing wires, taking things apart and general investigation - I found that the easiest way to defeat the 20min timer is to simply remove the two "extra" cables from the front switch-bank (the green one and the blue one below it) and then to bridge these two wires together. Doing this doesn't seem to affect the machine in any other way - it turns on the same, heats up the same, brews, steams and turns off the same (but only when you press the button to do so, it doesn't turn off automatically after 20 mins). Hooray! I've shown some pics of the wire that I made up for this mod - using high temp flexible silicone cable and a couple of 6.3mm male spade connectors - you simply plug one connector in on one side, and the other on the other side, and fold the wire over. Simples and reversible if required. (I'm going to make them slightly longer, as it makes folding them easier - even though it's using flexible silicone cable, when they're short it's not quite as easy). I've also included some additional photos of the wire installed. If anyone buys my 2018+ Gaggia Classic PID kit and wants one of these cables then I'll include one free of charge IF THEYASK FOR IT. (If you've previously bought a 2018+ kit and want one then it's just £1 for 1st Class postage and packing). If anyone else who's a member on here can't make one, and wants to just buy one from me - then I can provide them at minimal cost - £2 plus postage (1st Class 70p, 2nd Class 61p!). I'm still working on a good, effective OPV mod - and I'll probably combine this timer disable mod, with a 9 bar OPV mod, and sufficient silicone pipe to properly replumb the OPV (right now they have the OPV dumping into the drip tray on currnt models, which is a crazy waste of water) within a "Fixes for the Classic 2019" combination mod kit within the next few weeks.
  6. I bought one of the Oz ones - took ages to arrive, and when it did the base and handle threads were two different sizes and the thing had been glued together with Evostick (or that's what it smelled like). I managed to fix it properly, but it took a while. Whilst I was waiting for my Oz tamper, I designed and 3D printed one in solid plastic - which did the job well - and I still use today. Happy to supply the STL or even print one for you for a small fee if you couldn't get it made locally. ...oh, yes, and I've obviously PID'd mine as well - in a totally non-invasive way, with an external power box that you plug the Caravel into, and then just insert a stainless steel temperature probe in the kettle (with adjustable height, so it's in the water and not just touching the bottom). Works well - but somehow, the simple and basic functionality of the standard bimetallic leafswitch (you could calll it a thermostat I guess!) just seems more elegant and in-keeping.
  7. As I mentioned in your other thread about this, I expect to have a proper and pretty simple / reversible fix for this - without swapping buttons around etc. and keeping the machine's usability and functions the same as standard - within the next few days. I'm also working on a cheap and easy OPV fix as well. Will probably end up offering both as a simple and cheap "Fix your Classic 2018+ here" kit - OPV to 9 bar (and perhaps 6 bar optionally) and disable timer in a cheap combined kit. Makes it into a much better machine! Watch this space...
  8. I should have a proper fix for this within the next few days.... no messing with switches, or holding switches down - a proper and hopefully pretty simple fix.
  9. Adding a little more to this "External OPV on a 2018+ Classic" story... I’ve recently fitted one of the external brass adjustable OPVs to a 2018 Classic and it had to be installed in such a way that it was very loose - to achieve 9 bar - but this then meant that it wasn’t sealing properly and the Classics steaming ability was severely reduced, as the boiler pressure was escaping by the badly sealing OPV. This particular OPV is rated as approximately 9-12 bar - and I found that when installing it, it had to be unwould most of the way to achieve 9 bar. Any tighter and it quickly is 10-11 bar. This means that there's little if any pressure on the spring, and the OPV doesn't seal the return flow properly - allowing steam/boiler pressure (and copious amounts of water) to escape into the tank whem trying to steam. So yes, it’s worth doing - but I would do it by carefully reducing the length of the existing spring. The external inline OPV is large, with a large powerful spring, and 9 bar is beyond its usable range as far as I can tell. (If you look at the spring inside the external OPV and the standard OEM sprint, you'll see a huge difference!)
  10. Can anyone with a Gaggia Classic Pro/2018/19 model - with the three separate switches on the front, and the OPV that's integral to the top of the pump spare me 2 mins? I'd really like to know specifically what make/model of pump it uses? I'm almost certain it's an Ulka - but specifically which I don't know - and whilst I keep meaning to have a look whenever I have my hands on one of these machines, I keep forgetting. Any info from anyone / a photo of the label on the pump would be REALLY helpful. THANKS!
  11. Have just PM'd you - sorry for the delay, was trying to take a bit of a break over the Christmas / New Year period ?
  12. Well [email protected] - sounds like a success! The trick to attaching the SSRs is to use a flat blade screwdriver on the nut - just ram it between the nut and SSR to prevent it rotating - and then use another Philips driver on the screw. Should be pretty easy if you do it that way. Taking the steam to 150, 155 or 160 probably wont be an issue - but remember the 8c offset - so a 155c steam stat is best replicated by setting steam to 147c. Heading over 160 is dangerous - as the machine temp goes significantly beyond that when steaming - and you’re getting close to the thermal fuse safety limit (which normally blows around 180-190c) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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