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MrShades

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About MrShades

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    Terry Wogan's latte art is better than mine

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    Wiltshire
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    I'm on here - take a guess...
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    Take people for lunch, and extract money from them
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    shadenville

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  1. Yes, sorry- when I said hit the brew switch I should have mentioned that you need to turn the steam off first (otherwise you get nothing from anywhere!)... youve covered that though I think - you just get water out of the group head.... not steam. It sounds as if the boiler isn’t heating sufficiently - BUT the ready light goes out when hitting the steam switch (and from what you’ve said, comes on again a short while later) - which indicates power going to the elements and it hitting steam temp.... so it’s a pretty odd one. Have you replaced or removed the steam stat (on the top of the boiler) at all? Has it ever produced steam properly? If you carefully examine the steam stat, printed on it - on the black part - you should find somewhere the temperature rating of it in degrees C... Can you see / read this anywhere? (I’m thinking that someone may have replaced the steam stat with the wrong part - which is about the only logical explanation I can come up with at the moment) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. If you leave the steam valve closed and just hit the brew switch at that point, do you get water or steam from the group? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. If you start from a point when the machine is up to normal brew temperature and the ”ready” light is on, when you press the steam button, does the “ready” light then go off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Just fit a PID instead - much better solution ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. It’s probably an incorrect wire or two from when you rebuilt it. Check your wiring against a Gaggia Classic schematic wiring diagram. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Correct - both stats are normally closed at room temp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Yes, or you could just test the electrical continuity of the brew stat when cold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. It’s either the wiring or the brew stat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. It doesn’t make the machine any better or worse at making espresso - the only thing it does is dump water into the drip tray from the Over Pressure Valve (OPV), that would otherwise and previously have been returned to the water tank. It means that otherwise good and usable fresh water is being wasted / dumped into the drip tray - rather than being put back into the tank for re-use - so you may get a fuller drip tray and empty water tank sooner, but that’s it. It would probably cost less than £5 for sufficient silicone tubing to correct this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yes, it’s the same Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Not sure what you're trying to say..... you simply need to go finer on the grind.
  12. Yes, as above - grind finer. When I added the dimmer to mine and did the 6bar pour I was quite surprised at how much finer I needed to go. Lower pressure = finer grind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Great stuff - well done Craig, nice work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Disparity - well, you've almost answered your own question: 107-94=? it's that sort of order.... however, when PID controlled (more tightly) and in a properly warmed up machine, I think it's more like -8c or -10c, than the -13c that the thermostat would indicate. I've also got a cupboard full of Arduino gear, with Pt100 sensors hooked up and running PID code - it's great fun (though my wife thought I was crazy a few months ago, when I got very excited because I had an OLED display showing the sensor temp and an LED going on/off simulating the SSR output)! Actually, one of my long term aims is to do something with an Arduino and 3 x SSRs - one for elements, one for pump and one for solenoid valve, and with those three you could do anything/everything - endless possibilities! Good luck! Meanwhile for mere mortals - there's my much simpler PID kit 😉
  15. I can give you some small amounts of assistance... SSR switching frequency when used with a PID is typically no more than 2Hz. No idea why you'd want to go much higher... though using PWM control from the Arduino ISN'T the way to do it! Temp probe replaces the standard brew thermostat Large oveshoot - no issue at all.... unless you're overshooting by 80+c, as the thermal fuse will then blow
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