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MrShades

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    Terry Wogan's latte art is better than mine

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    Wiltshire
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    I'm on here - take a guess...
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    Take people for lunch, and extract money from them
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    shadenville

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  1. You could fit an extra OPV from the earlier Classic - as the boiler/group is the same. You’d leave the existing one on the pump and fit an additional adjustable one (Gaggia part 11012627 - about £35) in the usual location - and just T a piece of tubing from it into the tank return pipe (from the factory OPV). You’d then have two OPVs - one at 15bar on the pump and another (adjustable, set to 9 bar) on the group - and this one would obviously render the factory one redundant. Not cheap, but I don’t see an easier way.
  2. Yes - I’ve had a 2018+ version for a while - not explicitly mentioned on here by available at the same price. Wiring is slightly different but otherwise it’s very similar. I’ve not managed to find a quick and easy way to bypass the 20min timer - which is a pain. If I were Gaggia I’d implement the timer in such a way that it satisfies the EU regulations but was very simple to bypass if an end-user chose to do so after purchase. Alas, it doesn’t seem that simple - at least with some brief investigation.
  3. [email protected] - I think they are improving all the time and actually seem pretty good these days. Whilst Dyson rule the roost of cordless, the reviews of the Eye 360 seem poor. I think they were innovative with the decent navigation but others now do it better and with better pickup. Roomba have the brand recognition and the one that ‘empties’ itself seems cool - but it’s hellishly expensive! When my wife suggested getting one it was because a friend gave great reports of hers (which transpired to be a Neato) - and before starting my Google based research I’d never heard of them and was heading off along a Roomba tack - but they do look v good. I’ll probably hold out until Prime Day and see what happens to prices - but the expensive ones seem to be better, especially with the proper navigation, zoning, exclusions and schedule - to wake up every morning to freshly cleaned rooms sounds great. Hiding the charger and vac under a sideboard also seems like a common suggestion - and having the little fella pop out of hiding, do his cleaning and then disappear again sounds ideal. Have set up some camelcamelcamel alerts and will see what happens...
  4. Just resurrecting this thread from last year - to see if anyone else has recent experience of robot vacs???? I've done some good research, and it seems that the Neato Botvac D7 Connected comes out on top - so that's probably what I'm going for. @streem26 above seems happy with a Neato, and I've got a friend that reports similarly.... anyone else any good / bad experiences? I specifically want a "proper" one - that properly navigates (rather than the cheap ones, which just use random turns after hitting obstacles), ideally by laser (so it'll work in the dark) and that include smart-phone integration, with configurable exclusion areas and zone cleaning on a schedule. The Neato D7 seems to be the best when looking at these features, combined with the D shape giving better brushing, and the motor itself being a more powerful vaccuum. Before anyone mentions it again - I already have a cleaner, and a wife armed with a corded and cordless Dyson, this is for "top up" cleaning overnight of high-traffic areas (having kids and pets, it doesnt take long!)
  5. To be fair, I think in real world usage - brass or stainless will be equally as good.... they're both better than aluminium!
  6. Just to be pedantic, if you take a look back at your reference doc, I'm sure you'll see that "steel" is quite different to "316 stainless steel"..... and brass/stainless will cause the brass to corrode.
  7. ^^^ that's a challenging read when using "Dark roast" 😉 Anyway - something is possibly going to corrode somewhere, but probably not very much! That'll do!
  8. What I'm saying is that brass and stainless (in theory) will cause the brass to corrode.... whereas brass and brass will do nothing, and brass and aluminium will cause the aluminium to corrode. Obviously, to what degree is a different question - and the answer is probably "Who cares?"
  9. Thanks for the reply, though my point is that the group of the Classic is made of solid brass.... so a dispersion plate (firmly afixed to it) made of any other metal will cause galvanic corrosion in either the brass group or the dispersion plate. If the dispersion plate is made of brass, this corrosion will not happen. If it's made of aluminium or stainless steel then it will, to some degree. HOWEVER - when the dispersion plate is made of aluminium, the galvanic corrosion will affect the dispersion plate - erroding / pitting it. We can change dispersion plates if this happens. When the dispersion plate is made of stainless steel, the opposite happens and we'll see mild galvanic corrosion of the brass group - again erroding / pitting it. Changing the brass group is slightly more complex and expensive than changing a dispersion screen. Whether this is a big deal or not I have no idea, and it'll probably need a long term test over a few years before anything became obvious. Just to be extra geeky, I've also now done some calculations concerning the specific heat capacity and specific gravity of aluminium, brass and stainless 316 Aluminium - would take 572kcal to increase 1m3 by 1c Brass - would take 770kcal to increase 1m3 by 1c 316 Stainless - would take 936kcal to increase 1m3 by 1c So - in terms of which material would "hold" more heat energy, stainless 316 wins - but both brass and stainless are good improvements over aluminium. Similarly (everything else being equal), a machine fitted with a stainless dispersion plate (or a brass one) would take longer to "heat up" than one fitted with an aluminium one. Probably longer by a few seconds, or a few minutes - but longer (it has to, if the extra heat capacity of the different dispersion plate is to be beneficial). It's impossible to have a material that increases thermal stability but allows the machine to heat up faster. I'm curious what you mean by " does not overheat when leaving the machine on, like Alu or Brass" - because I've never seen the dispersion plate have any effect on overheating at all.... in fact it's immaterial as long as the thermostats or PID are working correctly. Can you explain please @CoffeeSensor?
  10. It’s also VERY possible that the previous owner has pulled the steam knob off and then put it back on 180 degrees out - as that also causes the knob to hit the case. Pull the knob off and make sure that the FLAT metal piece inside the knob is located on the CURVE of the spline - it would seem logical to locate the flat metal piece with the flat of the spline but that’s wrong, and causes it to rotate incorrectly and rub on the case.
  11. Just to note that after the recent changes on here, everything seems much better on Tapatalk as well now Thanks for the ongoing [email protected] - it’s appreciated.
  12. [email protected] is this it? https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/4H78Gre
  13. What is [email protected] got a link? Looks interesting for holidays etc - easier to use than my Feldgrind and Aeropress
  14. Did anyone else miss “Mum” (BBC2 and iPlayer)...??? We missed it completely until the promos for season3 came along - and thought we’d try S1E1, got instantly hooked and watched it all on iPlayer - very good watching.
  15. Possibly - but we could also have said almost the same thing about the Decent when that first appeared. Will be interesting to see the detail - and it’d be great to see one parked next to a black Monolith to see how well they go together!
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