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shadow745

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shadow745 last won the day on July 19

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  1. Have had the 106 for maybe 6 months now and still find it to be phenomenal. Have been using manual grinders for quite some time now and the 106 really is as good as I can imagine any grinder being, manual or electric. Not to mention it's far more portable/compact than anything else using a similar set of burrs. The build quality, tolerances, adjustability, repeatability, alignment is just spot on. Previously had a JE-PLUS from 1Z and it performed great as well, just not on the performance/build quality level of the 106. Of course the 106 costs 3x more, but it really is a lifetime device no doubt. The burrs are rated for 1,700 lbs. in a commercial setting, so I imagine at home with little to no heat involved due to manual cranking those burrs will never realistically wear out. Mine was $749 (USD) and around $55 for shipping, taking about 1.5 weeks to arrive. If I'm not mistaken I happened to order mine during some type of Chinese celebratory holiday and that slowed shipment down a bit, but it arrived well packed and flawless. Included a small set of tools for taking it apart as well as the hex attachment to spin with a drill if that's your thing. Edit... will also add that although very large burrs are used it's not the fastest manual grinder due to the planetary gear system. Takes me around 55-60 seconds to grind a 19.1 gram dose (average). Takes approximately 4 turns of the handle to equal 1 rotation of the burrs. If those burrs were 1:1 direct drive I imagine many people would struggle cranking it as it would put force on wrists, shoulders, etc. It is so nicely built that even 1 minute goes by seemingly fast and of course with little effort as it's very smooth and fluid-like.
  2. UPDATE..... To anyone interested in a solid fix for this common design issue with 3-way splash I tweaked things a bit. I bought some extra 3/4" heat shrink tubing that's 3.5" in length and cut a notch at the bottom so that when it's installed onto the 3-way discharge pipe it diverts the flow nicely out into the center of the drip tray and prevents any from splashing toward the machine internals. I was able to slide it up onto the pipe enough that it just does clear the bottom of the drip tray and is flexible enough that tray removal/replacement is a snap. Since I don't need to remove the tray often I keep 2 sponges in it as that easily absorbs all discharge from 6-7 doubles each morning and at the end of each daily use I rinse/squeeze the sponges out, wipe the drip tray residue and put them back in. I do wash them with coffee towels a few times weekly and simply replace when they start to degrade, which takes quite awhile. This sponge fix easily handles all discharge when I do a detergent backflush with lots of flushing as well. I know some complain about the shallow tray design, but there are simple workarounds to solve any minor issues.
  3. The stock baskets are a joke for my use... even the stock basket that came with my Silvia Pro sits unused. Have been using the 40-100-103 basket for quite a few years and it's been superb. Used it with my V1 Silvia and of course now the Pro. Have read it's been 'updated' even more and the latest version isn't as good as what I've been using. This is where I sourced mine and the basket quality and performance in the cup is simply unbeatable. https://www.espressocare.com/products/item/rancilio-double-basket-redesigned-2014-18-grams This guy sells the flat screen kit and it's a big improvement in performance as there is no puck fracturing from updosing and it is easier to clean than the stock setup. Actually bought from him recently to replace the stock screen setup on the Pro machine. Rancilio has made a bit of improvement with the current screen as it's somewhat flush mount, but still not very tight tolerance that you'd expect to go along with such a superb machine. Also, the stock screen with the machine brand new was slightly tweaked as in not perfectly flat. http://store.pidsilvia.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56&search=flat+screen Granted you can stick with the stock setup, decent dose, etc., but I won't waste time/effort being stuck in the 14-16 gram dose range just to pacify the machine in stock form. With that basket/flat screen my average dose is 19 grams or so and superb extractions. Extreme flavor profiles and very heavy texture, which is exactly what I seek out. Never was able to get close to that with the machine using those stock parts.
  4. When you replace burrs main thing is to be sure the mating surfaces are spotless so they sit as perfectly flat as possible. Simply start each screw and tighten them each a bit at a time until all 3 are bottomed out and fairly tight. Don't really crank on them as they can strip. Also, be sure to clean the carrier threads to ensure smooth rotation. A toothbrush/vacuum is perfect for this. Once you get things back together just tighten to the point of the burrs lightly touching (not seriously dragging) and attach the hopper as close to the '0' point as possible and you're done. When I had mine, with fresh burrs at true 0, my average grind range was 8-9 for the coffees/fineness that I like to use, so that might be a decent starting point for you and tweak away.
  5. Seriously, lmao? Pretty much everything to address has been listed and some of us have quite a bit more experience/knowledge than you might admit/imagine. Too many fanboyz in forums/subs these days, time for me to roll!
  6. Yes now that pics are presented the grind could be a touch finer and go from there. I despise the lame stock hex head screw that causes that. Some think it makes no real difference, but after having done over 10,000 extractions on the V1 Silvia I had I know better. Switching to the flush mount design instantly cleaned things up. For some that may think the OPV has nothing to do with things that get out of hand clearly has never dealt with one malfunctioning, which I clearly have. Also had that to fluctuate as in be fine for days to weeks, then stick shut and force all pressure to the group. For your morning/evening changes... ambient temp/humidity can seriously affect grind fineness needed. Also, if you haven't purged any remaining coffee from the grinder anything sitting for an period of time will loose that freshness and cause fast extractions.
  7. Over Pressure Valve, which is what diverts excess pressure back to the reservoir instead of full force at the group. The OPV is quite simple and relies on a spring/plunger to control flow. It can clog with sediment/scale and not function properly consistently. Next extraction you do open the lid to the water reservoir and hold the shorter hose up out of the water. If you grind fine enough to cause an over pressure situation you should see that excess flow being sent back through that hose. You can also check that by running the pump a bit with the blind basket in place, which should give you quite a bit of back flow. Sometimes the OPV needs to be taken apart for cleaning or even rebuilt/reset, which is cheap and easy.
  8. When I had a Rocky this is the last set I bought and of course they are OEM. Look for the Rancilio stamp to be sure. Granted aftermarket burrs will likely do OK and of course are cheaper, but tend to be lesser in strength/hardness and just don't last long. https://www.amazon.com/Rancilio-Grinder-Replacement-Espresso-Grinders/dp/B00WFKBXRC/ref=asc_df_B00WFKBXRC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309803823769&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6714450799789205011&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009645&hvtargid=pla-570555797233&psc=1
  9. Just looking at the burrs gives very little information. Feeling the edges for sharpness, looking for rolled over edges, etc. can give a little bit of feedback, but performance is the real indicator. If you have to run the burrs near a true zero point to get decent fineness, the grind takes longer, sometimes is more clumpy, then it might be time for a new set. The first link look like just basic aftermarket burrs that fit whatever. The second link looks like a closer match, but I'd say be sure to look for the OEM set/branding just to be sure. Don't worry about color as that is likely just due to heat treating, etc.
  10. For something like that happening quite suddenly with no real changes I'd check the OPV as if it's not functioning in a decent manner it will force all pump pressure right to the group and act exactly as you describe. When you extract or use a blind basket check flow from the OPV to the reservoir, as in the shorter hose. You should have some measurable flow.
  11. Absolute most reliable way... by taste! If I want to be somewhat technical I have a quality digital meter and flex probe that I run up through the portafilter spout and rest the probe bead right under the basket and that gives quite accurate readings. Can also snake the thin probe wire over the basket so it is right under the shower screen. I'm not all into Scace device readings as what I do works great for me in real world use. The PID display on the machine seems quite accurate and very responsive. After running my usual 45-50 second extractions it's still on my setpoint and seems to recover nicely even under heavy use as in fairly quick back-back extractions based on my use thusfar. Will add that for what it's capable of it is quite energy efficient based on current draw when sitting idle, that sort of thing. Due to the boilers being insulated it doesn't give off much heat at all. Also noticed it has a slower/more controlled flow rate at the group, which most definitely helps minimize channeling. Just a fantastic machine that should serve any serious enthusiast well. Not everybody likes the old school industrial boxy look, but at least it's not just another lame shiny E61 duh machine.
  12. Recently decided to 'retire' my V1 Silvia that had served me very well for some time. Bought it used (hardly used sums it up) and was averaging 2,500 extractions on it yearly. Replaced a handful of parts in it just to be sure it remained 100% as not a single part ever failed. Knew over time I'd eventually have to replace the heating element, which of course is quite doable, but decided to buy a brand new machine since I've always bought used. Decided to go with the Silvia Pro... even though I hardly ever steam and really have no solid need for a dual boiler I was so impressed with the build quality/performance of the Silvia that I knew the Pro would carry on in that direction. It indeed has the old school feel of Italian craftmanship with some nice modern tweaks and it does perform very well. I will say two things I don't care for is the shower screen and 3-way flow arrangement... -Shower screen has improved with an almost flat design, but the screw used and the way it was tightened at the factory left the screen slightly warped. Yes I did try tweaking it a bit, but still wasn't totally satisfied with the water flow, etc. Decided to get the flat screen kit from PIDSilvia site and it definitely fits much nicer and gives a more even flow of water. Also, when snugged into place it's totally flat compared to the stock screen. -Solenoid discharge has been somewhat improved as the frame has been tweaked to give a 45 degree ledge to help divert the flow into the drip tray. Truth be told it still splashes around quite a bit. The frame is stainless as well as all other components in that lower area, but still a bit messy at times. Very simple/quick/cheap fix I've found to work great is installing a sleeve onto the solenoid pipe that directs the flow much further down into the drip tray instead of hitting that ledge and splashing all over. That simple fix is a piece of heat shrink tubing I had no real use for. Think the diameter is listed as being 3/4" and I cut it to maybe 2.5" or so in length. Simply slid it over the end of the pipe and the end is maybe 1/2" off the bottom of the drip tray. Directs the flow nicely with much more control. It is flexible enough that removing the drip tray is no problem as well. I often read comments from those bashing the Silvia drip tray design. Yes it could be deeper, etc., but it's not a big deal to find simple workarounds. What I've done with several machines for many years is simply keep a sponge in the tray, which absorbs all 3-way flow. At the end of each daily use I simply wring/rinse the sponge, wipe the drip tray out and it's like new every single day with no mess, fuss, etc. Why some let the drip tray get too full then spill all over trying to remove it is beyond me. Why some machines have a float reminder to be emptied is ridiculous as people should realize an espresso machine is a bit involved and requires attention to detail. Anyway... I haven't seen much mentioned about the Silvia Pro and just mentioning that a handful of things from the original carry over to this beast. I currently push it fairly hard daily and have had it for about 5 weeks now. Thing has been spot on and am blown away with the temperature stability and super fast recovery.
  13. Yeah it might be difficult to find at times, but will see if anything else pops up... OK just found this as I have looked at that page in the past and apparently they will reopen soon and might have it. http://store.pidsilvia.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=56
  14. Did that as well, but still push things on updosing so the flush mount just made things that much better. Not to mention it's a slightly cleaner design and allows for easier swiping of the screen before each extraction. Whereas the lame stock screw head tends to grab the cloth. FWIW I tend to keep most things I have in stock form as manufacturers do usually spend time/money on how things are designed/manufactured, but that is one lame thing with the Silvia line, plain and simple.
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