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mathof

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  1. 85.5C, thermocouple placed on group near neck joint You can use the lever while the pump is refilling the boiler. Same for steam and hot water I do a visual check to make sure there are no coffee particles in water I return to the tank. Water is continually being reboiled from cool unless you run the machine 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
  2. I use a technique Reiss recommended some time ago on the Londinium site. When the boiler is up to the pressure that makes the pressurestat cycle (about 10 minutes), I let it reach the top of the cycle and then pull the lever to the point where water begins to dribble from the group. As soon as the pump kicks in, I let the lever rise again; and then repeat the process until the group is sufficiently hot (I have a thermocouple permanently mounted on the side of the group). Additionally, because I don't want to waste the Volvic water I use to fill the tank, I collect the water from the group in a pyrex measuring cup and pour it back in the tank after it has cooled down.
  3. mathof

    Londinium r

    That's a little lower than mine. Due to the many variables involved – coffee type, roast level, personal preferences – the best thing is to experiment. You'll soon fine what suits your situation.
  4. mathof

    Londinium r

    I run my old-style L1 at 1.1 bar max, much higher than that leads to hotter brew water than works for me. Anywhere between 1.0 and 1.3 seems reasonable, but the final determination may be influenced by ambient temperatures. If you're kitchen is much colder in winter than summer, you'll want to run the boiler higher in the winter than the summer.
  5. I don't know where I heard that; I hope I'm not spreading false information. I agree that the basket holes differ for different size baskets, in order to keep the flow the same, I presume. I also should mention that they have straight sides.
  6. –– VST baskets have more and larger holes, as well as precise tolerances; this allows you grind finer, in order to extract light coffees better and more evenly. ––IMS makes more than one screen. They have finer meshes than the original Londinium screen, which allows them to diffuse the water more evenly and gently.
  7. Today, I measured the brew water temperature and spring pressure of my lever machine with homemade devices I put together. But now, I want to check that I have the right readings. It occurs to me that if I could repeat the measurements with a Space 2 Thermofilter, I could work out if I need to apply offsets to my own readings. Any help in finding a Scace 2 I can borrow or rent for a few days would be much appreciated. I'm in central London. Matt
  8. Same here. I've got a Londinium tool now, and it reliably produces even pours.
  9. I have a 2nd gen L1. It is set to a boiler pressure of 1.1 bar. I've yet to try a light roast (including Nordic types from Tim Wendelboe, &C) that I couldn't extract satisfactorily by raising the lever, after low-pressure pre-infusion, to near the catch point and holding it a while before releasing. This is using fine grinds and VST baskets.
  10. If that doesn't work, you might try raising the preinfusion pressure on your LR. Reiss has been giving examples on his forum of how he pulls very light shots by varying pre-infusion pressure (which influences brew water temperature) and shot time. It seems very complicated; he allows 250g of coffee to get the dialing-in right and then enjoys a second 250g bag. But he reports very good results. (Forgive me if you already know, and do, all of this.)
  11. I bought this machine new in June 2014 from Bella Barista. It includes the large chaff collector, and the original extras: base for the roasting cylinder, two instruction manuals and a plastic scoop. There is also a three-foot run of cylindrical ducting connected to an adapter that fits the chaff collector. It is in excellent condition, has been used for only 40-50 roasts and not been modified in any way. Price £300, collected from my flat in central London, EC1
  12. I would think that the shops would have to be setup with an extra, dialed-in grinder. Otherwise it would take time to purge the grinder they were using for their usual espressos and reset it for the light beans they had chosen for the day. Or they could keep a second grinder filled, dialled-in and ready to use. Machines with multiple groups that allow individual temperature settings would be useful, too, as I believe hotter brew water is needed. The main point is that I'd like to taste some ultra-light shots for myself. As to which beans they are: people who write about them seem to know. Scandinavia is often cited as a good source. And, of course, there are agtron numbers that can be taken into account.
  13. There seems to be a trend for pulling espressos at home with very lightly roasted beans which are intended for filter coffee. I’be had mixed results trying this for myself. As it requires finer grinds and longer brew ratios than other espresso, most coffeeshops would find it a struggle to insert pulling ultra-light beans into their normal workflow. Does anyone know any that do, particularly in London?
  14. Thank you for those suggestions. I’ll give them a go.
  15. Does it matter is a roasted bean is much lighter inside than out. I roasted some Guatemala Joya Oscura washed beans (sourced from Foundry) for espresso, and dropped them between. FC and SC. They have 17% of development time. I like the flavour although they must be finely ground and pulled very carefully to get a good extraction yield. The inside is much lighter than the surface, which is also mottled and quite chaffy (image attached). Should I seek to change something on my next roast?
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