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MWJB

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MWJB last won the day on September 5

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  1. Have you tried a steel straw in the spout, or some other method of preventing a seal when the cone is full of water? Also, what kind of kettle are you pouring with? For bigger brews where you want a faster pour rate, a regular kettle might be preferable to a gooseneck. I bloom with a gooseneck, then pour with a normal kettle. I'm not sure the process is any less consistent than the others you mention, but I tend to find Chemex brews a bit simpler tasting, you get a strong USP from the coffee, but maybe in soft focus, less complexity? Mind you, I've never gone as big as 1L brews. Currently doing 40:640g brews, bloom 40g for 45s, all water in by 2:00 to 2:10, 3:50 to 4:10 total brew time. I can't imagine brewing 3 Clevers in a reasonable timeframe will produce brews that are any better (I use both Chemex & Clevers at work, for office brews).
  2. This is the same design as the 54mm Sage basket that I use and extracts pretty much the same as the straight sided double (can't say for sure about the 58mm). The IMS is also chamfered at the sides, I don't think a straight sided single is common.
  3. This is what the Sage single baskets are. I think IMS & Decent Espresso do them too?
  4. They're making an espresso at 1:2. I'm sure it tastes fine, then they are adding milk to that good tasting espresso. This is the key point, we are going to make a nice espresso as a basis for a nice milk drink. Not make a nasty espresso then drown it milk because we can't stand to drink it neat. If you want to go straight in at 1:2, do so, but I don't think it's going to be the quickest way to get what you want, entirely up to you though.
  5. Time will be similar for singles & doubles. Good, try not to get into a frenzy when dialling in. Make the drink, always finish if you can, then think about what you really dislike about it & ask for help in understanding why that malfunction might exist. I don't drink milk, or milk drinks at all. But Euro mass market espresso seems to stand up in cappuccinos & cafe con leches at that sort of strength/ratio. Best to be able to taste the neat espresso for trouble shooting, perhaps split the shots & make a single espresso to troubleshoot & a single capp from the same double dose? But yes, the espresso is where the shot is being 'made', adding the milk is just diluting it, not doing anything to the extraction, which finishes when the flow from the PF stops.
  6. How strong do you need your shot to be? 1:2 will be 33% stronger than 1:3. I'm not sure that many places are pulling Italian mass market espresso at that short a ratio. It will be easier to get a balanced extraction at 1:3. A single espresso uses a smaller dose, so the dose is half the weigh, you use the smaller basket & the drink is about half that of the double (ratio stays pretty much the same). A lot of folk struggle with the single baskets, maybe go authentic Euro espresso and just drink half a double? :-)
  7. What works, works. It works for everyone because we all make coffee the same way (grind it up & soak/flush it with water). What you like, as in your preference is up to you, but still, to get there you'er going to grind up the coffee & soak/flush it with water. There's no magic, guaranteed start point, we have to work with an arbitrary start point & hone it. So, what is: Your grind setting on the Niche. Do you have 20.0g of ground coffee in the PF basket? (I don't have a dual boiler but if anyone has a better suggestion for dose weight, please pipe up). Put the cup on the scales under the PF and run the pump (start timer) until you have say 53-55g of coffee in the cup, kill the pump (stop timer). How long was the pump on for? What weight did you get in the cup? Aim for 60g to start with. What was wrong with the taste?
  8. I don't need to agree with it, but you're opinion is valid & probably shared by many others. I tend to feel the sooner someone asks for help & is prepared to buckle down, the sooner they'll be making drinkable drinks & not wasting coffee. Sure there is a lot of info out there on how to make coffee/espresso, most of it is frighteningly bad advice. E.g. I made crappy, inconsistent drip brews for years until I worked out how not to. Would have been nice to have got a leg up earlier.
  9. That's what we're here for, to help, give the benefit of experience. Otherwise there'd be one sticky with, "Got a question? Google it!" & no threads :-) I don't mind taking some time to help, but I'll drop out if looks like I'm wasting my breath.
  10. If they're all 10min long that's 20yrs of videos, nobody's got time for that :-). It'll be quicker to troubleshoot what @Tony fonda is actually doing.
  11. There are not a dozen variables. There are 3 (assuming your puck preparation & distribution in basket before tamping is OK, if it's not, the variables won't help, so no shortcuts here - weigh the ground dose, grind into a cup/pot/jug & shake, transfer to PF, a couple of side & up/down taps to settle, tamp flat.) 1. Grind - most important. 2. Brew ratio - If grind can't get the result by itself, look at making this longer (more drink out vs dose). Start at 1:3. 3. Dose - Should be good advice from users as to a usual dose, only look at modifying this after exhausting previous 2 options. Stop using the double button, use scales under the cup. Allow whatever time it takes to hit a good flavour at your brew ratio, don't stick rigidly to a specific time...even if your extractions are consistent, time will still vary.
  12. Dry residue will be what it will be, based upon many of the minerals in the water. It's less relevant to scaling issues as some of these minerals don't significantly contribute to scale. Good boiler water might typically fall anywhere around 100 to 150mg/L (or TDS, units are interchangeable) as dry residue, but it's not a particularly useful guide. If you are using jug filtered based on your tap water, the only thing you're really going to be looking at is KH/Alkalinity. I don't know if a Brita jug is up to the task, I use a Zerowater jug that is supposed to strip everything, then mix back some tap water. The cartridges themselves still represent a fair bit of waste. Red Sea are a well regarded make of test kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/Red-Sea-Foundation-Alkalinity-Titrator/dp/B004CSDRLK/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=kh+drop+kit&qid=1571211195&sr=8-12 I have a Pondlab 200 test kit, but that does lots of things I don't need.
  13. There will always be some calcium. That, magnesium & bicarbonate are the principal things we are interested in. The range for bicarbonate is the most critical re. scaling.
  14. Don't use it in your machine (but drink it neat by all means), it's just typical UK water a little on the harder side of normal (normal is hard too), a large proportion of the population have something broadly similar coming out of their taps, maybe you do too. You're looking for water with a bicarbonate level between say 50 & 80mg/L on the bottle label.
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