Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


MWJB last won the day on August 29

MWJB had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4,064 Excellent


About MWJB

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You can't even extract a French press at 1100um. 800-900um would be as coarse as I would go & that would be for an insulated 1 hour steep. A small glass press might need 400-450um avg. That std dev makes no sense to me You're pouring really aggressively, the stream is hosing from the kettle spout in an arc. Try to get it to drop down straight from the spout. If your flow rate is about 1.4g/sec from the brewer, there is no need to get the water in quite so quickly. See if you can get the pulses in around 25-30s each. (e.g. pour at 2g/sec or even a bit slower). If you get standing
  2. Absolutely not. Both contain significant non-dissolved solids (unless paper filtered), so both increase mouthfeel which can be (but not always is) a hinderance to clarity. Espresso is 'louder' than immersion.
  3. I'm not sure those plots make much sense. You're saying the grind acts as if it is finer on the Wilfa, but the avg particle diameter is 1200um in the plot...1200um is very coarse. I found I got similar performance from my Wilfa at 18-19, same protocol on the Niche was around 54. Make a video of your V60 brew, that might be more useful. Make sure you are using Japanses papers. @earthflattener hi, sorry can you explain this a bit please? Why should the grain size be exactly constant?
  4. Acidity is an attribute not a fault (like harsh, tart, sourness), if it was unpleasant then something was likely wrong with the method. Coffee can taste of many things, if you're drinking a drink made from ground up beans & water, it should taste nice irrespective of whether it is bright, or not. What kind of ripe fruit do you like? Look for coffees that reflect those. The tasting notes are the recipe, or at least it's intended result. Maybe think about running a shot to a longer ratio to balance it out, if necessary.
  5. All grinders make fines, the KG79 is fine for drip, it's not an espresso grinder. It grinds slowly because it has a weedy motor & tiny burrs.
  6. Pleasant acidity. If your coffee has notes of redcurrant, hibiscus, apricot, raspberry, grape etc there should be some of this. If the flavours are earthier, like tobacco, nut, dark choc, spice there may be less, or even none. Mouth puckering tartness, unpleasant sharpness, unwanted sourness are not things I'd call brightness. The thing about brightness is that it likely declared in the tasting notes, so you should know it's coming,
  7. How are you ascertaining slurry temp consistency? If it differs from extraction consistency, is it a thing? The temp of the hot brew water in the kettle (especially with a hot element in it) must be pretty good? In past attempts I couldn't determine a difference in slurry temp between 6 pours and one fast pour. FWIW none of the Rao #2 brews were pleasant. None exceeded 20.4%EY (my brews average 19.3%EY +/-2%) using the same calculation as Rao.
  8. Ugandan arrived today, I'll brew it tomorrow.
  9. OK, is there any way you can break down what you're actually doing (grind size, brewer, pours, pour timing, total brew time)? If you are using commonly used white paper filters, drop the rinsing stage, or use tap water to rinse if you have some strange compulsion to continue rinsing. I'd brew with more coffee to water (34-35:500g) for a start.
  10. Make few brews, exactly the same way, make notes, think about what it is that you don't like about them & refine until you can take an unknown coffee & get a representative cup. E.g. if all your coffee is silty, grind coarser & pour at a slower rate (pulses are good here). If all/most of your coffee is tangy/unripe/weak. Grind finer (but not so fine cups are excessively silty) and/or pour at a slower rate. Basically, identify that water is your problem, after ensuring that you're not going to continue with the same malfunctions with different water. (Maybe @ckrhodesis better
  11. The most important thing you can do is identify the grind size & pour regime for your most common brew size. This will be the same for whatever water you choose. If you are going to modify your water there is always a cost in waste. Generally water with a high alkalinity will attenuate acidity at normal extractions, water with low alkalinity will push acidity at normal extractions. This week I have used Waitrose Lockhills & (alternative) a mix of tap water & Zerowater to give around 50mg/L Alkalinity. For some brighter coffees stock tap water can be fine (it's what
  12. It isn't. You need o specify which water as tap & bottled don't identify specific characteristics of the water. The majority of both will have unsuitable aspects.
  13. Foundry, Costa Rica, Finca San Fransisco, natural - tasty red fruit/berry (red grape notes, I won't argue with that). 14g at 82 on Niche (no NFC disk) Kalita Uno - 20g poured every 20s until 200g total. Dry bed at 3:16.
  14. Is there a reason why you need to use a specific dose? If not, stick with 18g for now. He didn't "brew too slow". He brewed too fine. Yes, when he brewed coarser the shot got better & ran faster, but the grind setting did the work, not the time.
  15. Blockages scenario - you will get sour because the drink is under-extracted, but because you also ground too fine, you will flush excessive silt into the cup. This causes bitterness & harsher, charred type flavors on top of the sourness. In extreme scenarios, where the puck might completely fracture the shot will run fast, only washing out solids it can reach, scrubbing some grinds completely and leaving others untouched (catastrophic channelling)...this can lead to a weak, but very drying/smokey/bitter hop dominated drink...it tastes like over-extraction, but is still under extraction - w
  • Create New...