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MrSmartepants

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About MrSmartepants

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    Brewing Nicely

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    Cambridgeshire

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  1. Just ordered some Las Palomas and Chocolate Point... beans this time
  2. Possibly. I'm intending to NOT upgrade anything until something breaks...we'll see how that goes. I'll probably get some different beans. This batch of "La Bolsa" from Django is good, but I'm getting tired of the floral note in the cup. 18g input, 35-36g output with nice crema, so pretty much spot on.
  3. First post here, but certainly not my first instance of muppetry! Late night, little sleep, and early alarm do not make a good combination. Alarm goes off, and I drag myself out of bed and on my way downstairs, my wife calls out "make the tea please." I fill the kettle and put it on to boil. Pull out two mugs and bowl for cereal. Rinse out tea pot and pre-heat with water from the kettle. Pour cereal into bowl and put sugar in wife's mug. Dump out water from tea pot and pop a couple of tea bags in the pot. Kettle boiled, so pour water into tea pot, give a quick stir and put lid on tea pot. Go to the fridge and get milk. Pour milk into mugs and set milk to the side. Pick up tea pot and proceed to pour tea over cereal. Slowly realize what's happening just as wife walks in and asks "What ARE you doing with that tea?" Ugh...
  4. I've got the grinder dialed in and everything is just how I like it. Enjoying the output until the itch to upgrade starts again. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk
  5. Following...I've been contemplating both of these grinders.
  6. Yikes! Well, at least the inside of the boiler looks OK. I had trouble releasing my steam valve also. What worked for me is wiggling it side to side while pulling up. The brass section has a 90 deg bend that sits about 1cm into the boiler. There's some play to rotate the valve a few mm both clockwise and counter to loosen the valve. The 11.5mm measurement for the OPV is just a starting point. When I used it, my static pressure reading from the group head was 5 bar. Oh, you're definitely going to need a new shower screen (and shower block).
  7. Yeah, you could say that. I've taken the instructions in the 2nd post and modified them for my own use. This is what I do now, though I'm sure some of it is redundant. For best results use filtered water in your machine and descale at least once per month (weekly in hard-water areas). Note: Try to minimize the amount of time that the machine is switched on since the descaler works best when the machine is NOT hot. Step 1: Fill your water reservoir with 1.5l of water and dissolve approx 30g of Puly Cleaner / Gaggia Descaler or similar product Step 2: Remove shower screen and (optionally) shower block and set these aside. Step 3: Open the steam valve fully and place a large mug, bowl, or other suitable waste container under the steam wand Step 4: Switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run descaler through the steam wand for approx 15-20 seconds Step 5: Flip all switches off and close the steam wand. Move waste container under the group head. Step 6: Switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run descaler through the group head for approx 10 seconds Step 7: Flip all switches off Step 8: Place the shower screen, block, and fasteners into the waste mug/bowl to soak in descaler if needed. Step 9: (Optional) Latch your portafilter fitted with a blanking basket to the machine, then switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run descaler through the Over-Pressure Valve (OPV) for about 10 seconds, then alternate switching the pump (Right switch) off/on/off/on for a few seconds to run descaler through the solenoid valve (waste water should vent into the tray). Step 10: Switch off your machine again (do not allow the boiler to warm up as descaling is best done cold) Step 11: Wait at least 10 minutes (longer if possible) for the descaler to soak throughout the system Step 12: Remove portafilter (if used), and drain contents into tray. Remove shower screen items from mug/bowl and clean gently under fresh water. Step 13: Switch the machine back on and run the remaining descaler through the grouphead and steam arm until almost empty. Then switch the machine off and allow to cool. Step 14: Remove the water reservoir and wash and dry. Fill water reservoir to the "Max" line with fresh filtered water Step 15: Install shower screen and shower block (if removed) Step 16: Switch on your machine and pump switches (Left and Right) and run the fresh water through the grouphead and steam arm (whilst cold) until tank is half empty. Step 17: Pull a shot and discard it (do not drink) Step 18: Refill water reservoir to the "Max" line with fresh filtered water Your machine is now ready for use again
  8. I only use my steam wand when I need to flush/purge the boiler, so I don't care what mine looks like. But there are many aftermarket steam wands out there (some actually look good), so I'm sure you'll find something. The only "bits & bobs" I'd recommend are a 58mm naked portafilter, and a 18g IMS basket to get you started along with a 58mm tamper. Although if you're going to stick with store-ground coffee, you're probably better off using the factory pressurized basket since it's not sensitive to grind size. The water in my area is crazy hard, so I also use bottled water out of necessity or I'd be descaling every other day!
  9. Nicely done! It should give another few decades of excellent coffee.
  10. Have a look at the pictures from my posts in this thread: Just be prepared for the likely scenario of replacing all of the O-ring seals (4-5 quid for the set), some of the bolts (about 60p each), and the shower screen/block/group gasket (about 40 quid). Get your parts in-hand before you start taking things apart. Replacing the shower block is debatable. You can get by with cleaning up your old one and reusing, but newer ones are made from either brass or stainless steel and have better dispersion holes. You'll need a 5mm long-handle hex "T" wrench (or ratchet adapter) to break loose the four boiler bolts before removing the boiler from the chassis. But the rest is pretty straightforward. If you separate the OPV valve components, you'll need to re-adjust the pressure using a portafilter pressure gauge.
  11. This is why you order replacement bolts before you tear down your machine for cleaning! These boiler bolts took a LOT more force to remove than I was comfortable with, but they did come out eventually. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk
  12. Unless you drain it, water stays in the boiler. Are you referring to filling the boiler on first use? Opening the steam valve, then flipping all three switches on in quick succession (from left to right) will quickly fill and purge the system with fresh water from the tank before the heating elements come to full power.
  13. That's great! Thanks! When making adjustments, does clockwise increase or decrease the pressure?
  14. So, I'm confused a bit with the instructions. I've completely disassembled my boiler and valves and descaled everything. I've rebuilt it all using new seals and I'm unclear of the starting point adjustment for the OPV. I've taken the OPV completely to bits, cleaned, and reassembled...where's the adjustment starting point? Do you screw down the adjustment block clockwise until it bottoms out...THEN back off 270 deg counter-clockwise? If that's the case, then I get max pressure and no release at all. I've got the adjustment block roughly half way up the threads. From this point, 90 deg turn clockwise and it won't release pressure, turn back 90 deg counter-clockwise and it releases pressure. I'm waiting for a mate to send me his pressure gauge, so I'm adjusting blind right now but the flow rate seems the same whether it's fully open or barely open. Anyone have further details on the adjustment procedure?
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