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BBBean

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Everything posted by BBBean

  1. Wind PTFE tape onto each of the male threads before you tighten them into the reducing bush.
  2. @Bob Geldof 85Looked at similar purchase a couple of weeks ago and ended up buying two items from same seller on eBay which arrived very quickly https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressure-Gauge-1-8-BSP-Bottom-Entry-50mm-dial-0-200-ps-2-Inch-/120873578223 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-8-Bsp-Female-1-8-Female-Socket-Reducing-Bush-1-off/110726500653?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 One small tip from a previous discussion is to use some PTFE tape on the threads. I didn’t and ended up with some water splashing inside the gauge, fortunately it dried out.
  3. I did the taping and several elastic bands too. Great that people here share these tips.
  4. No I have been through that step, would not have managed without the Naprawa video. Didn't actually take the bulb out but completely stripped down brew switch and cleaned thoroughly before reassembly. Switch now operates with satisfying click but when I tested bulb (as per Naprawa video) light not coming on.
  5. Sorry @ratty perhaps didn't explain myself well enough. Haven't tried a new bulb yet, just in process of ordering one from @FairRecycler. Wasn't sure whether resistor or bulb had failed.
  6. Excellent, I was going to ask about the dummy resistor, whether this needed replacing with a blank and if you supplied this. I finished the refurb of my nephews 2012 machine a few weeks ago, thanks to the help provided by many of the forum members. I have obviously talked about this too much as have now been handed another project by a friend with another non working machine. The brew switch felt very "fuzzy" compared to the other two switches and no pump activation when turned on. Inside machine contained a lot of coffee grounds which gave a clue. Found links to the Naprawa video fr
  7. Morning @FairRecycler just wondered if you are still supplying bulbs for the Gaggia Classic as above?
  8. Thanks @Blue_Cafe and @phario It is an Olab 8000 series 3 way valve in very good condition, apart from the water inlet/outlet which contained a lot of calcium deposits but now fully cleaned up. Can't find anything about requiring lubrication so will leave well alone.
  9. The long one. There are two circles which should have been spot welds on the upturn of the rear shelf. Looks as if they were not welded properly. Small amount of rust around where the "weld" had been attempted on the inside face of the rear upright panel. Managed to lightly abrade both faces by pulling rear shelf down. Degreased then masked off with Frogtape before running full width bead of JB Weld across the rear shelf to rear face joint.
  10. After a 2 week break returned to refurb project. Have now sourced all recommended materials, new bolts etc and ready to proceed with project. Bonded the non existent welds on the rear shelf with JB Weld as recommended , which appears to be well set. Interested to see @ratty alternative using 3mm screws in a different thread and will use this method if the bond fails. Hoping to reassemble over the weekend. Have a question re solenoid valve - do you lubricate the cylinder with Molykote 111?
  11. Thanks again @ratty very helpful.
  12. Thank you to all who have given advice, it has been very helpful. At present awaiting delivery of new fasteners and seals. Have now read many other threads which are equally useful. @ratty reports of refurbishment also inspiring and am now considering improvements to own Classic machine. Is there a good source for the Rancilia Steam Wand? Also was going to use a cycle lithium grease for reassemble but see that you recommend a food grade grease. Is there a good source for a small quantity? Thanks again
  13. Success!!!! Left overnight with boiler to group head bolts shrouded in WD40 soaked cotton wool balls. Also managed to borrow a much longer allen key and each one cracked off first time. Some of bolts badly corroded so will be buying new. Do you reassemble using lithium grease on the threads? LOTS of limescale in boiler.
  14. Thanks ratty. I've got some standard which I think would work, but may follow your recommendation. Definitely worth doing this whilst machine is an empty shell.?
  15. Thanks again - have found some threads re spot welds. These infer that this is more an issue with 2010-2015 machines, which fits exactly as this is a 2012 m/c and mine is 2008. We are a bit more fortunate re failed welds as it is the 3 spots at the rear. In truth they don't really look as if they have failed but were never welded properly. All the other weld points have some discoloration from the weld on the inside surface - these don't and are very clean. I suspect that the rear shelf has never been properly attached. I didn't notice any excessive noise when I was trying to run the machine b
  16. Thanks for your comments Marcos, the 2 group head bolts and shower screen have cleaned up really well so I think they are OK. Was planning to get new grouphead gasket - I changed my own machine about 12 months ago. May I ask why silicon? Andrew
  17. Thank you again Phario, only just received T handle driver and sadly the body is too thick to fit hex key square into boiler bolt head so think will try the impact method. I have completely stripped out the machine now and noticed that the rear shelf in the body (where pump is mounted) is not attached at the rear. Have compared to my own slightly older machine and it looks as if the 3 spot welds have failed. Have you seen this before? I don't think it will matter but wondered whether to try and bond it? Thanks Andrew
  18. Thanks Phario, any particular supplier or they all from similar source. Apologies but as a newbie I seem to have set up two threads. I originally posted this but then couldn't find it so set up a new thread Gaggia Classic2012 Cleanup
  19. Thank you for your advice El carajillo and Blue_Cafe. I have the allen key and torx set but didn't feel I could get enough leverage so actually have ordered a good quality T handle hex driver, which arrives tomorrow and should give more leverage. This will also be useful for the other new hobby of repairing the family bikes. I have taken the Brew Head screws out and released the boiler so will need to hold it lightly in a vice. Would you use WD40 or vinegar to soak? It doesn't look corroded but there is a little calcified sediment around 2 of the bolts. Thanks again Andrew
  20. Hi all I have owned Classic for 13 years with no issues, I am now trying to resurrect the 2012 machine which i bought as a wedding present for my nephew and his wife in 2012. Machine has been out of action for 2 years. He thought the pump had failed. From tests I've carried out fairly I was sure that it is the solenoid. Tried various attempts to de-calcify but didn't really improve, so have stripped machine down. Mostly fairly clean but when took solenoid apart the inlet is completely furred up. Thought I might as well do full strip down and replace all seals. However have a problem
  21. Have owned Classic for 13 years with no issues, I am now trying to resurrect the 2012 machine which i bought as a wedding present for my nephew and his wife in 2012. Machine has been out of action for 2 years. He thought the pump had failed. From tests I've carried out fairly I was sure that it is the solenoid. Tried various attempts to de-calcify but did'nt really improve, so have stripped machine down. Mostly fairly clean but when took solenoid apart the inlet is completely furred up. Thought I might as well do full strip down and replace all seals. However have a problem in that I cann
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