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MarkHB

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About MarkHB

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  1. I haven't tried it yet but I was planning to. I pulled 3 shots last night, the first one being the one I mentioned above. Then the next 2 I kept the yield the same but reduced the time. This made the shots even more sour. That's why I started thinking more in terms of time than yield but I see now that's not exactly right. That video was really helpful. Definitely the best I've seen on the subject. Thanks!
  2. Thanks! I didn't think the ratio would have been so small. I'll have to try it. Same as myself. With this bag of beans especially I've learned a lot about it. First day I opened them they were really strong smelling and tasting. Now they smell a lot better and taste better too, just still too sour for my liking. The following article from Square Mile themselves is a good read if you haven't seen it: http://www.squaremileblog.com/2020/02/21/red-brick-and-freshness/
  3. Can anyone give me some advice on how I would go about dialing these in on a Sage Dual Boiler? I've had the beans for 3 weeks now but I'm still finding they are extracting very sour. I've found the least sour extraction was 20g in, 42g out in about 37sec. The longer extraction time is making me think I should start looking at longer pre-infusion times, which is something I haven't got into before. I've not had a lot of experience with lighter roasts, but the ones I've tried before tended to be more fruity. I've found these beans to taste more savoury to my palate, almost like a chilli soup, which is strange. Maybe it's just my unrefined palate. Just one more thing. If drinking these in a small Latte would I need to use a double shot to make them cut through the milk? With darker roasts I usually use a single shot with about 175-200ml of milk. I'm quite sensitive to caffeine so I don't really want to have to use a double shot. Thanks for any help
  4. Thanks Inspector! That sounds good! Would you recommend doing the same every time I change beans?
  5. I've been using an adjustable palm tamper recently. My question is how do you go about making the decision to set the depth? I have a Sage Dual Boiler which comes with a little dosing tool so should I just set the depth the same as the tool? Which brings me to the next question: should I just be keeping the tamper at the same depth and changing the dose of the different beans I'm using so that the pressure is consistant? Thanks for any advice!
  6. I've just tried this on a Duo Temp Pro that I haven't got round to selling yet. I believe the steaming on the DTP should be very similar (if not the same) to the BE. I steamed 200ml of milk with the Dual Boiler tip attached, and to be honest, I didn't find it made much difference. If anything the steam coming from the three holes seemed less powerful than with the one hole tip attached. I can't really talk too much about whether it would texture the milk better. On my first try I didn't get a good texture. I can definitely get a lot better with the one hole tip. But I imagine you could play around and get better results with the three hole tip. Personally, one of the reasons I upgraded to the Dual Boiler was for the steaming power. It's night and day difference between the DB vs DTP & BE in that regard. I find steaming the same amount of milk takes about half the time, plus factor in that you don't have to wait for pressure to build, plus you can steam while pulling a shot. I also find that I can get a thicker, creamier foam which was something I found hard to do with the DTP. If you really want an upgrade in the steaming department then I think you would probably have to upgrade your machine. Hope this helps.
  7. I emailed Urnex on this and they said that none of their backflush detergents are suitable for use on aluminium. I'll get the Puly Brew Tabs.
  8. It's definitely not normal anyway. You can see the steam coming out of the three holes at different times. It should be a constant stream out of all three. If I were you I would try emptying the steam boiler and let the machine refill itself. Also make sure to let the machine heat up enough before using it, though you probably already have. You could also try taking the tip off to see if that has any effect.
  9. Yeah I saw that ecookshop do a good deal on it. Would have been nice to get it but they weren't doing the deal at the minute. I bought one used from ebay.
  10. Sorry I could have been more clear. I've just bought the machine used so I'm not actually sure what caused the issue. The reason I said Cafiza isn't suitable is because it says on the tub that it's not. I've seen a few posts on the internet too where people were having issues using it on aluminium. I just don't want to do anymore damage to it than is already done.
  11. It's for backflushing a Sage Dual Boiler. The Teflon on my grouphead heater is flaking off and the aluminium is exposed and oxidising. Do you think using Cafiza2 would make much of a difference to it at this point?
  12. Does anyone know of a suitable cleaning powder for aluminium? I know Cafiza2 definitely isn't.
  13. Ah! Too late! I bought a used machine off ebay. It's only 5 months old though and seems to be in good condition. It's a big upgrade for me over a Duo Temp Pro. It's a fantastic machine! I know about the main issues with the machine. Seems to be mainly o-rings failing, and then some other components commonly give up. I'm not too worried at the moment because most of the problems seem easy enough to fix. I do have an issue on this machine though with the grouphead heater showing corrosion: I'm pretty sure this is aluminum which is oxidising. I've emailed Sage to ask them about it to see if it will be an issue. Hopefully not!
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